1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration
- Thread starter RealWing
- Start date
-
I've been considering adding TBI fuel injection for better driveability and was leaning towards the Holley Sniper after doing some research. However, I wasn't sure how it would fit on a 340. As luck would have it, a local machinist mentioned he had recently purchased one but had not installed it yet!!! I got it to do some checks.
The stock air cleaner base fits with lots of clearance
The throttle linkage always seems to be a problem when interfacing with a Mopar. The position of the throttle stud is critical to both the throttle and tranny linkage. After doing a bunch of measurements, it is clear that the linkage arm will need modification. (I could not find a Mopar adapter for the Sniper) The existing hole in the throttle bracket (see arrow in photo) is not far enough from the shaft CL and thus does not have enough throw from closed to WOT. Probably will need a homemade bracket.
The stock air cleaner base fits with lots of clearance
The throttle linkage always seems to be a problem when interfacing with a Mopar. The position of the throttle stud is critical to both the throttle and tranny linkage. After doing a bunch of measurements, it is clear that the linkage arm will need modification. (I could not find a Mopar adapter for the Sniper) The existing hole in the throttle bracket (see arrow in photo) is not far enough from the shaft CL and thus does not have enough throw from closed to WOT. Probably will need a homemade bracket.
Jim, if you are redoing your A/C system, how is your expansion valve? I bought a new one 20 years ago for my car, but since then have gone in a completely different direction LOL.
My exp valve is a new R134a valve
I didn't realize they were different. I guess mine is just a conversation piece now!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily. I bet theres still people restoring these cars and using R12 or liquid gold as my brother calls it.
Conversion to R134a was pretty straightforward.
- flush system
- remove old oil from compressor sump
- new R134a O rings
- new R134a drier/receiver
- new R134a expansion valve
- charge to about 75-80% of R12 charge
- flush system
- remove old oil from compressor sump
- new R134a O rings
- new R134a drier/receiver
- new R134a expansion valve
- charge to about 75-80% of R12 charge
Picked up my freshly restored NOS power brake booster today. Completely restored (ie all new internal rubber parts), bench tested and cad plated by Booster Dewey. Looks fantastic I think!!!
Also got new Year One (M&H) wiring harnesses (Dash, AC/Heater, engine forward and rear ) I will need to add some wires because I have more optional wiring than comes with the standard kits.
It came out much better than the unit I am using. I do not see any of the small pits it left with! Told you it could have been polished. You should be satisfied as it looks great!
Last edited:
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
I purchased this same harness and it is a very good reproduction but, check the new one against your old one before installing!! I found that the pins controlling the headlamp and park lamp circuit were installed in the wrong slots in the bulkhead connector !! Once I finally figured it out, it was a simple fix . I was severely pissed with this as this harness is not cheap and I felt the quality control was lacking.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Yup! Total f$%k -up by the manufacturer !! To be fair as I possibly can in this instance, once repaired and installed, it looked and worked perfectly. My concern was that my car could have burned if this harness had to be screwed up in a worse way.
As I stated, I paid top dollar for this harness. Made in USA !! I would have expected it if it was Chinesium!!
Definitely no pits!!! VERY happy with the results. Thank you for making it happen!!!
Jim
That booster came out mint!
I completely agree with checking every wire and connection. I got a rear lamp harness for my Cuda convertible and it had the wrong plug on one wire. E-mailed M&H and they quickly mailed me the correct one. These are just humans assembling these harnesses and human do make mistakes!!!
I'm also going to check the crimps and may end up soldering them to be sure - definitely the red/black wire coming thru the bulkhead connector!!
I'm also going to check the crimps and may end up soldering them to be sure - definitely the red/black wire coming thru the bulkhead connector!!
First time I've used Booster Dewey - but is highly recommended based on my booster.
Started to check the new dash harness and transfer the optional wiring to the new harness. First problem was that the new fuse block did not have the accessory fuse holder parts installed. I was able to transfer them OK to the new fuse block. Definitely have to be careful in moving all these wires!!!
They are just the base harness. You have to add to it based on the options the car came with. For The ones not sold from M&H through Year One, I sent them to M&H and they reproduced them from my originals and sent me back the new and old.
Let me know what ones you may also want to replace and I may have the M&H part number for them which will save you some time.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Looks exactly like the harness I purchased. Look at the red and Black wires on the bottom with the brass connectors. I re-did those by soldering and using double wall heat shrink. Just didn't feel confident enough that they wouldn't pull out when reinstalling the harness with all the movement it takes to put everything back in place.
The accessory harness number I'm transferring is 2983254. The Parts Book says this is applicable after about Oct 15, 1968. A different p/n 2926770 is used before that date.
Did a test fit of the Sniper on the stock manifold. The primary bores in the manifold are too small for the Sniper, but the TB fits on very well. Will need a new manifold for sure. The Tranny linkage is aligned very well, but will need an adapter bracket on the TB linkage.
-
