1970 "DUPED" Dart Swinger

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CFD244 said:
A little off topic...........How did you strip the old paint from the engine? Looking to do the same. Thanks
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I tried a lot of things like paint stripper first, that worked pretty good. Then I finished with lacquer thinner (worked the best) and a few really cheap wire brushes from harbor freight. I have a thinner bottle that dispenses the thinner and just squirted it on the engine and scrubbed. I also found a very small wire wheel for a drill at Ace hardware that worked awesome for the corners and tight spots. I was surprised how clean I actually got the engine. I did break the spark plus off so I could get in there as well.

After that I took a propane torch all the way around the block to push out any residual oil or water and that made it really clean. Then I finished with acetone and some rustoleum primer.
 
67Dart440GT said:
I really don't think that having a manifold with an 1/4 inch gap between it and the block with zero sealing is being a perfectionist.... I also don't think that having all the receipts for a car and then noticing some of those parts are in fact NOT on the car... and have been replaced with cheap junk is being a perfectionist... I also don't think that having a pool of oil under a car after driving it once isn't considered leaking oil... Subjective? Maybe to you and the seller but not to anyone else I'd guess. I also don't see anywhere that I publicly shamed the previous owner.. Not once did I mention his screen name or who he was.

I also think you've completely missed the point of this entire thread... maybe you read it, but I don't think you caught it. If you were looking for a gold watch and I said I had one, sold it to you and sent you a Casio... You'd just put it down to being subjective right?
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Sorry I missed that in post 30 you finally mentioned oil drips on the ground below. Before that, you had only shown photos of slight oil mist around the distributor, way back where many wouldn't notice it, and not atypical in many of these engines. What parts are you now stating were claimed as being on the car but were missing? In post 50, you state that the distributor cap doesn't match a receipt you later found inside the car, presumably after you purchased it. Did the seller ever state that part was installed? Were the pricey after-market roller-tip rocker arms in post 48 as-found or something you added? There are always two sides to a story, so don't expect every reader to nod in agreement with your fussing.

The only way to know if the car was fairly valued would have been to instantly flip it and let the market decide. If you did, would you have managed to detail every little niggling issue and document ever tiny nib in the paint?
 
BillGrissom said:
Sorry I missed that in post 30 you finally mentioned oil drips on the ground below. Before that, you had only shown photos of slight oil mist around the distributor, way back where many wouldn't notice it, and not atypical in many of these engines. What parts are you now stating were claimed as being on the car but were missing? In post 50, you state that the distributor cap doesn't match a receipt you later found inside the car, presumably after you purchased it. Did the seller ever state that part was installed? Were the pricey after-market roller-tip rocker arms in post 48 as-found or something you added? There are always two sides to a story, so don't expect every reader to nod in agreement with your fussing.

The only way to know if the car was fairly valued would have been to instantly flip it and let the market decide. If you did, would you have managed to detail every little niggling issue and document ever tiny nib in the paint?
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I REALLY think you need to go back to post one, read it, read it again... and this time read it niiiice and slow.
 
67Dart440GT said:
I REALLY think you need to go back to post one, read it, read it again... and this time read it niiiice and slow.
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Nobody cares enough to parse your posts with a fine-tooth comb and try to read between the lines. In post 1, you only stated "lots of oil leaks under the car". That doesn't necessarily mean "drips on the ground below". You can look under many cars and see a few hanging drops, but no noticeable drips on the ground or significant oil loss, especially in older cars when they used poorer valve cover and oil pan gaskets. It doesn't mean that anything was done incorrectly per the original design. The way you fuss about my comments, it is unlikely you would be completely satisfied with any car purchase. Your title which claims "DUPED" is not justified by the information and photos you related. Nothing appears to have been covered up and you have only yourself to blame for choosing to buy the car as-is, sight unseen, then not meeting all your expectations. You could always sell it on.
 
BillGrissom said:
Nobody cares enough to parse your posts with a fine-tooth comb and try to read between the lines. In post 1, you only stated "lots of oil leaks under the car". That doesn't necessarily mean "drips on the ground below". You can look under many cars and see a few hanging drops, but no noticeable drips on the ground or significant oil loss, especially in older cars when they used poorer valve cover and oil pan gaskets. It doesn't mean that anything was done incorrectly per the original design. The way you fuss about my comments, it is unlikely you would be completely satisfied with any car purchase. Your title which claims "DUPED" is not justified by the information and photos you related. Nothing appears to have been covered up and you have only yourself to blame for choosing to buy the car as-is, sight unseen, then not meeting all your expectations. You could always sell it on.
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Bill.

Shut up.

 
RustyRatRod said:
Bill.

Shut up.

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Quite rude and childish. Silence anyone who questions the OP. We must have consensus. Let us all throw rocks at the member here who sold the car and supposedly "duped" the buyer. Somebody identify them so we can stone them! Let's see what 67Dart440GT says about a car he buys from RustyRatRod. Should I pile on the seller then?
 
BillGrissom said:
Quite rude and childish. Silence anyone who questions the OP. We must have consensus. Let us all throw rocks at the member here who sold the car and supposedly "duped" the buyer. Somebody identify them so we can stone them! Let's see what 67Dart440GT says about a car he buys from RustyRatRod. Should I pile on the seller then?
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I haven't seen anyone piling on. At all. Shut up Bill.

 
BillGrissom said:
Nobody cares enough to parse your posts with a fine-tooth comb and try to read between the lines. In post 1, you only stated "lots of oil leaks under the car". That doesn't necessarily mean "drips on the ground below". You can look under many cars and see a few hanging drops, but no noticeable drips on the ground or significant oil loss, especially in older cars when they used poorer valve cover and oil pan gaskets. It doesn't mean that anything was done incorrectly per the original design. The way you fuss about my comments, it is unlikely you would be completely satisfied with any car purchase. Your title which claims "DUPED" is not justified by the information and photos you related. Nothing appears to have been covered up and you have only yourself to blame for choosing to buy the car as-is, sight unseen, then not meeting all your expectations. You could always sell it on.
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It seems like you care enough to keep coming back here.....

Let's dissect your post a bit... I could do this to all of them but I don't think you'd get it.

"Lots of oil leaks under the car"... doesn't mean it "drips on the ground"... where does it go then geneious? Why would I phrase it the way I did if I didn't notice it on the ground? Are you really that dumb?

All of your posts have shown CLEARLY that you did in fact NOT READ anything I have posted about this issue but yet you continue to ramble on incoherently post after post with absolutely ZERO knowledge of anything you are commenting on because YOU DIDN'T READ ANYTHING well enough to comprehend it or remember it.

I am not responding to anything else you post here so you can... but I refuse to answer to you. Go bother someone else and stop hijacking a thread to attempt to sound like you have a damn clue about anything you are saying.

Bye and IGNORED.
 
I did a bit more work to the engine today. Sand blasted a lot of the bolts, got the engine on TDC #1 and stuck the Mopar distributor in that I had in my 340 Demon.

I did figure out the issue with the dip stick... Due to this having a stroker crank in it the builder shimmed the windage tray down with stacks of washers to clear the crank. Doing this caused the dip stick "when slid into the tube" to actually go inside the windage tray where I believe it met a spinning crank shaft and met it's end.

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67Dart440GT said:
I did a bit more work to the engine today. Sand blasted a lot of the bolts, got the engine on TDC #1 and stuck the Mopar distributor in that I had in my 340 Demon.

I did figure out the issue with the dip stick... Due to this having a stroker crank in it the builder shimmed the windage tray down with stacks of washers to clear the crank. Doing this caused the dip stick "when slid into the tube" to actually go inside the windage tray where I believe it met a spinning crank shaft and met it's end.

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That's a lot of sealer. For my own info, is it necessary? I smeared a little around the coolant holes and that was it. Hoping it will suffice??
 
CFD244 said:
That's a lot of sealer. For my own info, is it necessary? I smeared a little around the coolant holes and that was it. Hoping it will suffice??
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All I did was put a small bead on the gasket then smoothed it all over the gasket with my finger front and back. When I torqued it down I just ran a towel around the edge so it smeared on the block a little. There is actually hardly any sealant on the gaskets. Just enough to make it stick. I think the blue makes it stand out a lot. Plus the gasket is blue.
 
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CFD244 said:
That's a lot of sealer. For my own info, is it necessary? I smeared a little around the coolant holes and that was it. Hoping it will suffice??
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You mean on the timing cover? I normally don't endorse RTV on a gasket, but on the small block Mopar timing cover I do. THey're bad about getting small pits in the gasket surface over time and a thin layer of RTV won't hurt a thing, especially around the water holes. Just one peon's opinion.
 
I put goop on the TC side only. They can get corroded, the block is machined so gasket should seal it.
CFD244 said:
That's a lot of sealer. For my own info, is it necessary? I smeared a little around the coolant holes and that was it. Hoping it will suffice??
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Glad you've decided to move ahead with working/enjoying it.
I would hate for you to scrutinize my car, yours looks pretty clean. Care to divulge seller?
I went and read thru your for sale ad and it sounds(by your ad) to be a pretty nice car.
Good luck and enjoy!
 
My mo is selling one of my cars has nothing to do with the OP but here it goes. Usually when I let one of my builds go ("build" is a loose term usually) I try to get the potential buyer to call (YES as IN actually CALL) me and let me walk around the car as we talk. Because I built it maybe 2 years prior and I don't remember every detail. IF that was the only car I had EVER built, I would probably remember most everything.

It amazes me the sheer number of people that will buy a car, site unseen, from 500-1000 miles away and never call. Those are the guys I tend too worry not too much about.

At 75 I am glad I will have few cars for sale in the future.

Maybe???? :steering:
 
RustyRatRod said:
You mean on the timing cover? I normally don't endorse RTV on a gasket, but on the small block Mopar timing cover I do. THey're bad about getting small pits in the gasket surface over time and a thin layer of RTV won't hurt a thing, especially around the water holes. Just one peon's opinion.
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One of the main reasons I started this project is there was a coolant leak coming from the timing cover. The area I found to be leaking was directly under the cooling passage on the passenger side. The gasket appeared to be just falling apart in that area.
 
67Dart440GT said:
One of the main reasons I started this project is there was a coolant leak coming from the timing cover. The area I found to be leaking was directly under the cooling passage on the passenger side. The gasket appeared to be just falling apart in that area.
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I remember when you pointed that out to me. That's why I recommended pulling the cover and it just kinda ballooned from there.......kinda like it always does. lol
 
67Dart440GT said:
One of the main reasons I started this project is there was a coolant leak coming from the timing cover. The area I found to be leaking was directly under the cooling passage on the passenger side. The gasket appeared to be just falling apart in that area.
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Oh and I'm not sure if I told you this or not, BUT my recommendation for the four long bolts that go through the water pump and timing cover is to coat the threads of course with RTV, AND the bolt shafts as well. Where the bolts fo into the timing cover, they are dissimilar metals and will corrode to the inside of the timing cover and break off the next time you replace the water pump. I normally coat the threads on ALL the timing cover bolts as well as the shafts of the long ones, because it both seals and keeps the bolts from seizing making them easier to remove next time. A lot of people look down on RTV like that, but as long as it's used sparingly and in the right places, it's good stuff.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh and I'm not sure if I told you this or not, BUT my recommendation for the four long bolts that go through the water pump and timing cover is to coat the threads of course with RTV, AND the bolt shafts as well. Where the bolts fo into the timing cover, they are dissimilar metals and will corrode to the inside of the timing cover and break off the next time you replace the water pump. I normally coat the threads on ALL the timing cover bolts as well as the shafts of the long ones, because it both seals and keeps the bolts from seizing making them easier to remove next time. A lot of people look down on RTV like that, but as long as it's used sparingly and in the right places, it's good stuff.
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I know you ain't lying! The bolts I took out of my 340 were so pitted I threw them away. We deal with this a lot in the body shop. We call it galvanic corrosion. Aluminum meets steel and corrosion starts big time.
 
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