"1970 Pro Touring Dart Build"

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Time to get the car on its feet again!

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That is what I am looking at also, recommended by Denny. Looking forward to seeing the ride height once installed
 
Fuel door is done for the most part. Just have to mount the magnet.
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Battery tray welded in.
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I was asked tonight if I'm giving credit to my body man.

He says Hi.
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My other buddy who owns the shop was busy working on another project.

Giving credit where credit is due.

This project couldn't and wouldn't happen without their help.
Greatly appreciate good friends, especially ones that are extremely talented.
 
AnotherA said:
I was asked tonight if I'm giving credit to my body man.

He says Hi.
The-body-man.jpg


The-body-man2.jpg


My other buddy who owns the shop was busy working on another project.

Giving credit where credit is due.

This project couldn't and wouldn't happen without their help.
Greatly appreciate good friends, especially ones that are extremely talented.
Click to expand...


LOOKS LIKE HES SAYING HE"S THE NUMBER ONE BODY MAN!!!:finga:
 
My instructions for my Hurst Line lock show that you should plumb it in after the proportioning valve. Not sure how import that is but thought I should mention it. You would be leaving pressure on only one side of prop valve when engaged, maybe wear it out early? I don't really know but thought I should say something. Nice build by the way!!
 
It just made more sense to put it in front of the prop valve because then I wouldn't have to put a T in place to go to each front brake.
How have the rest of you run your line locks?
 
This is REALLY nice build. Kudos! The color is going to be amazing too. But I have a weakness for orange!

BTW, my line lock will be AFTER the prop valve when I get the disks converted over. Line lock was already there (located below driver's seat) and I don't plan on moving it.
 
Hi back to your body guy...,
This country is great!!!
I get the "hi" sign all the time....of course I promptly return it...usually with both hands...kind of a double hi..
 
AnotherA; It just made more sense to put it in front of the prop valve because then I wouldn't have to put a T in place to go to each front brake.
How have the rest of you run your line locks?
Click to expand...

My good friend always puts the line lock on the Rear Tires not the front cause they never really hold the car still unless you have your foot on the pedal.

Turn line lock on, hit the button which locks out pressure to the REAR brakes. Pump up the pedal and do your burn out. This way you are using the pedal pressure to hold the car on the front brakes which will actually hold the car from moving. You are using the Line lock to BLOCK brake fluid from reaching the Rear Brakes.
 
Mad Dart said:
My good friend always puts the line lock on the Rear Tires not the front cause they never really hold the car still unless you have your foot on the pedal.

Turn line lock on, hit the button which locks out pressure to the REAR brakes. Pump up the pedal and do your burn out. This way you are using the pedal pressure to hold the car on the front brakes which will actually hold the car from moving. You are using the Line lock to BLOCK brake fluid from reaching the Rear Brakes.
Click to expand...

and how does that work on a stick shift?...is this guys name Yardstick?...must have three feet
 
HemiDenny said:
and how does that work on a stick shift?...is this guys name Yardstick?...must have three feet
Click to expand...

Learn how to drive and you can pull it off!! :D

1) Mash the throttle Hard and bring it up on Revs 2) with the HEEL of your RIGHT foot ON THE BRAKE> Side step the clutch
3)place your left foot on the brake and do your burn out. 4) Proceed to punch the chitttttttt out of it until you roast the chitttttt out of your tires. 5) Use your Left foot on brake to control your ROLL. Or just use your right Heel on the brake the whole time.

How hard is that??

Next lesson is how to stage with a stick shift. Say tuned!
 
ahhhhhhh.....the ol' heel/toe program

I thought that's what the line lock was for....how could I be sooooo silly? ...LOL
 
I'm stuck running the steelies for now.
The fatman tie rod hits the wheel. I hope a stock one will work.
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Springs one the weakest setting, need to get a spanner wrench.
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Feels nice to have it on all 4 wheels again. Even though this is just a mock up.
 
What size are the aluminum wheels that hit? I am going to be running the same set up, and that would be good info to be aware of when I buy mine.
What brake kit did you use? Mine runs the wheels out 1/2" farther than stock Mustang II on each side.
Its looking great, there is just something about an old car still "in the rough". What are you going to paint your K-Member and suspension parts with? Or are you powdercoating?
 
I'm running everything that's on Denny's parts list. This brake kit does not move the wheels out any.
Don't have aluminum wheels for it right now, its hitting the stock steelies.

I think I'm going to be powder coating it all.
 
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