"1970 Pro Touring Dart Build"

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AnotherA said:
Thanks guys. Moved the rear axle back ~1.5" to center the tire in the wheel well better and allow more clearance for larger tires..
I know it will hurt the weight transfer on launch, but that's not a big deal for me since its a driver and not a drag car.
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How did you move the axle back 1.5" and keep the upper shock mount lined up or did you change that when I wasn't looking ?
 
I can't get away with anything around here.

The axle is moved back. I have to put the upper shock brace and weld the shock mounts to the axle.
 
AnotherA said:
I can't get away with anything around here.

The axle is moved back. I have to put the upper shock brace and weld the shock mounts to the axle.
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Its the Damn photos....I was looking at how you mounted your fuel pump and how much room you had compared to my set up and then it hit me about the rear moved back .....I'm always looking for ideas for things I might have overlooked still a great job...keep posting pics so I can find Waldo.
 
Any pro's or cons going in front or behind the axle with the shocks and mount?
 
How much do you want for the motor? Where are you located i should ask first? Is she a runner? I want to build a 408
 
AnotherA said:
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I always knew that'd look awesome! cant wait to see it all one colour.
 
Trying 17x9 +24mm (0.94") offset FR500's up front.
Going to have to open up the center whole in the wheel to allow the hub through and possibly add spacers and restrict the turning radius of the rack.

I only bought one wheel to give this a try and see if its worth the hassle and potential ride height sacrifice. I hope I don't have to trim the fenders because of turning clearance issues.

Right now I'm planning on these tire sizes.
17x9 wheel with 245/40 rubber up front. 24.7" height
18x10 wheel with 285/35 rubber in back. 25.9" height

I can definitely go bigger in back but the wheel choices are limited if you don't want to spend the dough for custom ones.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
It would be easier if they made the FR500's in a 7" or 8" wide wheel.
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Your preaching to the choir there. I hunted all over the place and no one makes them in that width.
I can have them cut down but its $200 per wheel through weldcraft.
 
Here is the Guinea pig.
To bad the center cap will have to go.
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9"s is a truck load of WTF for a front tire on this car. I may have been a bit optimistic thinking I can fit it with the ride height I want.

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Hope to get out to the shop tomorrow and start fitting it.
 
Love your build and the fab on the hood. Good luck with that 9" I'm on my second set of wheels and it's still to tight to the edge to drive it lowered
 

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What is the bs on that wheel? You could easily go with a 295/35/18 in the rear unless your afraid its to tall.
 
Remember anything is possible depending how much time and money you want to spend...I like a wide tire (especially on the rear) but considering a stock 340 Duster (I know you have a Dart) came with a 14"x 5.5" I think a 17" x 7" with a considerabily lowered stance, no clearance issues and no air bags should make one bad *** car. Denny and I pushed the envelope designing my suspension with 100% drivability in mind. You can only go so low with factory Mustang backspacing without major surgery.
 

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a +24 ON A 9" RIM WOULD BE 5.94 B/S
I would not open up the center of the wheel. I would turn down the rotor. Thats what I did on mine.
 
2darts said:
Love your build and the fab on the hood. Good luck with that 9" I'm on my second set of wheels and it's still to tight to the edge to drive it lowered
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Nice car 2Darts, do you have a build thread or anything with the wheel fitment? Are those 20's front/rear? What size tires?
 
72BBSwinger said:
What is the bs on that wheel? You could easily go with a 295/35/18 in the rear unless your afraid its to tall.
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I can go 315+ on the rear. I just don't have it in the budget for the wheels and tires I really want.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Nice car 2Darts, do you have a build thread or anything with the wheel fitment? Are those 20's front/rear? What size tires?
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2Darts, Please tell us you have a build thread some place for that car.
Those wheels look awesome!
 
prrc said:
a +24 ON A 9" RIM WOULD BE 5.94 B/S
I would not open up the center of the wheel. I would turn down the rotor. Thats what I did on mine.
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I've got a mustang II front end. I'd have to turn down the hub.
Looks like this.
83527011252_R_1620bf66.jpg



76orangewagon said:
Remember anything is possible depending how much time and money you want to spend...I like a wide tire (especially on the rear) but considering a stock 340 Duster (I know you have a Dart) came with a 14"x 5.5" I think a 17" x 7" with a considerabily lowered stance, no clearance issues and no air bags should make one bad *** car. Denny and I pushed the envelope designing my suspension with 100% drivability in mind. You can only go so low with factory Mustang backspacing without major surgery.
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Ross, thats why I think I'm not going to get the ride height i want without massaging the inner fenders. Not sure If I'm willing to spend the time on that since I have to let my body guy get to work. Might be able to use a spacer to set it out far enough to clear the downward slope of the inner fender, but I doubt it.

I'll call it my $125 experiment. If it works, I save myself a ton of dough in wheels. If not, back to square 1.
 
It will still look like that when finished. We have done it several times
AnotherA said:
I've got a mustang II front end. I'd have to turn down the hub.
Looks like this.
83527011252_R_1620bf66.jpg





Ross, thats why I think I'm not going to get the ride height i want without massaging the inner fenders. Not sure If I'm willing to spend the time on that since I have to let my body guy get to work. Might be able to use a spacer to set it out far enough to clear the downward slope of the inner fender, but I doubt it.

I'll call it my $125 experiment. If it works, I save myself a ton of dough in wheels. If not, back to square 1.
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You have machined mustang 2 hubs to fit FR500's?

Why wouldn't you open up the wheel instead?
If i had the hub machined, the cap would also have to be machined or a custom one made.
It looks like you would have to remove more metal then there is available on the hub and cap to get it to fit.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Nice car 2Darts, do you have a build thread or anything with the wheel fitment? Are those 20's front/rear? What size tires?
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20"x10" in the rear and 18"x 8" in the front
I'm changing the wheels and going with 18" x10" in the back and 18"x7" in the front. I just have to spend more time on it to get the right wheel, which I don't have the energy at the moment.... I like the look of my wheels, unfurtunatly I can't get the offset that I need. No custome offset on these 338's. The rear tire, I didn't get the wall I was looking for, it needs a bit more to match the front.
 
Not for that particular wheel. But yes machined down Wilwood Hubs to fit in the past. What is your center opening on the wheel and whats your hub diameter? Most 1 piece cast wheels are hub centric and being able to open up the center and still stay round and be hub centric to the wilwood hub would be almost impossible to chuck the wheel up and machine.
You dont need to machine the whole snout just further up toward the face of the hub.
 
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