1970 Swinger 340 Hemi Orange 4 speed

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Swinger340Canuc said:
I should be around next weekend Randy, I think you have my cell no. now so feel free to call or text me. I took another look at the primer underneath Randy and the area at the back that was grey turns out to be over spray primer from when they did the spot repair at the back. I need to clean some areas that where disturbed the least like above the gas tank but I'm now leaning toward a very dark grey or maybe black primer, what I'm seeing is pretty dark. Needs some more investigation with some bright light under there. Danny
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Ok sounds good, I'll send you a text later this week so we can set a time up. I am thinking my car was black underneath.. I just searched thru my old pics when I was taking the car apart and I took a pic under the gas tank and it looks black to me.. With orange overspray. I still have yet to find any grey under the car.

 
Swinger340Canuc said:
That's exactly what mine looks like Randy.
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I guess black it is! That makes things a lot easier.. I will use this SEM hot rod black for the underside of my car and then get a pint of red oxide primer and hemi Orange single stage and give it the overspray look. The hot rod black is a dead match for the dash too if you Give it a dry spray on the final coat to give it more of a texture look. My Dad did that to his dash and it turned out perfect.

 
I really like this project. Amazing effort. What's up with the spare tire well? Looks like someone used it as a target for a game of horseshoes? Are you going to smooth it out or replace it?

Jay
 
JayinMI said:
I really like this project. Amazing effort. What's up with the spare tire well? Looks like someone used it as a target for a game of horseshoes? Are you going to smooth it out or replace it?

Jay
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Thanks Jay! I have no idea how it got dented like that, haha. I am going to get my dad to help me hammer and dolly it straight. Then I'll finish smoothing it out with a skim coat of filler on both sides.. (I also have to weld up the holes from the trailer hitch) the trunk pan is solid in the car, so I wanna save it mainly to keep the spot weld markings on it and retain some of the original metal on the car.. Even tho 80% of the car has been replaced, haha. It won't be to bad straightening it out.
 
I started blasting the car... Have I said how much I hate sandblasting? I started off with copper slag but it did not work with the 3/32" tip for the blaster, it kept clogging. (I need a 3/32" tip for the CFM rating of my compressor which is 18.1CFM @ 90PSI) appearantly copper slag needs a larger tip since it's so coarse.. Oh well I learned the hard way.

I used the remaining of my aluminum oxide sand (about 5 minutes worth) and it worked perfectly and never clogged the blaster, so today I am going to pick up some finer grit glass since aluminum oxide sand is really expensive! I'll finish blasting it today and tack up some little holes I tore from breaking the spotwelds, then I'll get ready to epoxy it.





 
I love the effectivity of media blasting, no chemicals, no sandpaper, but damn what a mess...gets in places you didn't know previously existed. You just about need a tyvek suit to keep from being inundated with the stuff.
 
Recycle what is laying on the tarp, any media is expensive.
I do all my blasting out side, in a garage the media ends up everywhere, I bet you will find some of it in your garage door tracks years from now.
 
txstang84 said:
I love the effectivity of media blasting, no chemicals, no sandpaper, but damn what a mess...gets in places you didn't know previously existed. You just about need a tyvek suit to keep from being inundated with the stuff.
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Yeah you can't beat it for stripping rust! I'm covered head to toe in glass after doing the back half, but now it's done.. Until I remove the other rail then I get the pleasure of doing it all over again! I did it in a T shirt I I bet I got some imbedded sand in my arms now!

sireland67 said:
Recycle what is laying on the tarp, any media is expensive.
I do all my blasting out side, in a garage the media ends up everywhere, I bet you will find some of it in your garage door tracks years from now.
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Yeah I will sift it out and reuse it. Glass was $25 for a 50lb bag and I used about half the bag, so that blaster is pretty efficient compared to the suction ones. With the 3/32" tip and medium grit glass I had no problems plugging up and my compressor kept up no problem at all. Haha it's funny you mention that because when I opened the garage door today it didn't sound to healthy. I would have done it outside but my car won't fit out the door when it's on its side and I don't wanna spin it on the rotisserie while the rail is out.. Plus my neighbors wouldn't be to happy, haha.







 
Gave it a coat of phosphoric acid rust converter to hold it from flash rusting and kill off any light rust pits that the blaster couldn't get into. Tomorrow I'll start welding up some holes and I have two small rust patches to do.



I'm also going to cut that rear valance bracket off the trunk pan and repair it, then weld it back on.. That's the only piece I've had trouble locating from a parts car so I'm just gonna go ahead and repair it. Shouldn't be to bad to straighten, grind the brazing off and drill out the broken bolts and re tap.
 
Frame rail is ready to go on. Now i got some prep work on the body and hopefully this weekend I can weld it on!

 
How is the car attached to the rotisserie in the rear, with just the one mount? Did you add any extra bracing from the car to the rotisserie? Would love to see some pictures of how you have it mounted if you have any. Im planning to replace my rear frame rail and would rather do it on the rotisserie than work underneath the car. Keep up the good work.
 
Thanks guys!!

68 bee it is still held by the other side of the rotisserie where I removed the rail. I went overkill on the brackets and mounted it up on the bumper mount too (where the 1970 dart bumper goes) All four mounting locations are still intact for the rotisserie, just less two bolts where I removed the rail. I will get you better pics. If the whole back half was rotten I wouldn't do the rail on the rotisserie. The car is very solid now and hasn't budged, I have it locked in the vertical position and will not move it until the new rail is welded on.

I braced at the B-pillar for additional support. It's tacked to the rotisserie cross beam.






 
I got one patch done and another started. Tomorrow I'll finish it up and then I got one more at the trunk pan.





I'll give it a once over with 80grit and the repair will disappear.




Pinholes!


 
txstang84 said:
Rust is stupid...but it damn sure is persistent.
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I agree! I am more persistent than the rust, haha.



I finished up the patches, welded up any holes I made from busting spotwelds and then I shut the lights off in the shop and shined a light from the backside to check for pinholes.. Then I placed the rail on the car and marked where all the holes were and took it back off and masked each spot where my plug welds will be. Now it's epoxied and ready for weld thru primer tomorrow! Hopefully I'll start welding the rail on tomorrow.





 
I got about 90% of the rail welded on today! I just have to finish up around the rear shackle box area and weld in the torque box.. Then lots of grinding. I made a jig to hold the rail tight against the pans and used a port a power to push the pan tight against the rail from the back side. The rail is now on tighter than what the factory had and I also added some additional 1" beads around the front shackle box for more strength.

I started in the middle of the rail and went towards the front shackle box, then I went and worked my way to the rear of the car.

















That was a lot of work! Once I grind all the welds down you'll never know it had a rail done since all the original spot weld marking are still there.
 
Brilliant work Randy--I would imagine frame components installed under a compression preload, as you've done here, will likely improve the structural rigidity
 
Thanks for all the compliments guys!

I have officially finished welding in the drivers rail! Tomorrow I'll paint in behind the torque box black and then weld it on and put some filler over where I ground all my welds and epoxy/primer the area and then I'll start cutting out the passenger side rail. All this cutting, welding and grinding on this car has wore me out, but it's so close now.. One rail, rear crossmember and weld up some holes in the trunk pan and I can officially say there is no more welding on the car! I've gone thru 4 spools of wire and have almost finished my second tank of welding gas to give you an idea of how much welding I did on this car.









I also added some extra welds in the front shackle box for extra strength.
 
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