John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
What did you clear the dash frame with?
It's looks a little too glossy compared to OE.
1972 Duster Build with my Daughter
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
- Start date
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It's looks a little too glossy compared to OE.
SPI Universal Clear with some flattener. It is too glossy but the owner likes it this way
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threewood
Well-Known Member
Pretty nice huh @billccm and @threewood. PEP Boys air cleaner just tops it off!
View attachment 1715286904
That's the show winner!
Worked on the center trim today. Masked it all up with yellow 3M tape. This worked better than the 3M vinyl pin striping tape.
Shoot it with SEM satin black...
Peel off the tape and there will be little flaws here and there..
Spray a bit of the paint on something and use a brush to touch it up...
Cleaned up the AC control. There is a trick using ozone to whiten yellowing white plastic. I may try it. Also the AC switch that I pulled apart to rebuild a while ago was a failure. The switch points inside are almost impossible to get bent right. I am going to have to suck it up and buy a $250 NOS switch..... choke.....
Set the panel in place...
Time for the glovebox lock.... Of course the tumblers for the Dart have 0 in common with the new trunk lock we bought so we just pulled them out. The lock won't lock but who cares.... The tab sticking up is what holds the cylinder in the glove box. If you push it down then insert the key it will stay down until the key is removed. Much easier to work with.
See, stays down by itself.
This little ring is all that hold the cylinder in. When you remove the key the plate pops up and then cylinder can't pull out past that ring.
Shoot it with SEM satin black...
Peel off the tape and there will be little flaws here and there..
Spray a bit of the paint on something and use a brush to touch it up...
Cleaned up the AC control. There is a trick using ozone to whiten yellowing white plastic. I may try it. Also the AC switch that I pulled apart to rebuild a while ago was a failure. The switch points inside are almost impossible to get bent right. I am going to have to suck it up and buy a $250 NOS switch..... choke.....
Set the panel in place...
Time for the glovebox lock.... Of course the tumblers for the Dart have 0 in common with the new trunk lock we bought so we just pulled them out. The lock won't lock but who cares.... The tab sticking up is what holds the cylinder in the glove box. If you push it down then insert the key it will stay down until the key is removed. Much easier to work with.
See, stays down by itself.
This little ring is all that hold the cylinder in. When you remove the key the plate pops up and then cylinder can't pull out past that ring.
So you see this ring goes between the metal door and the plastic trim. It won't pull through the plastic hole...
The cylinder comes in from the outside and once the tab is released it can't be pulled back out through the plastic hole because of the ring.
Install the latch into the metal door...
Now place that ring over the latch..
Install the plastic cover (stick your finger through to hold the ring.
In goes the cylinder in the locked position (it must be in the locked position to remove so if you don't have the key you are screwed)
Unlock position and pull out the key to release the tab and your done.
Install the 5 screws to hold the plastic to the metal door and adjust the door latch.
All done and work perfect.
Now to the dyed defroster vents. Some of the mounting tab snapped off when removing the nuts on disassembly but I saved the ends. These are hollow so you can run a piece of brass tubing down the center to give a glue joint super strength.
The cylinder comes in from the outside and once the tab is released it can't be pulled back out through the plastic hole because of the ring.
Install the latch into the metal door...
Now place that ring over the latch..
Install the plastic cover (stick your finger through to hold the ring.
In goes the cylinder in the locked position (it must be in the locked position to remove so if you don't have the key you are screwed)
Unlock position and pull out the key to release the tab and your done.
Install the 5 screws to hold the plastic to the metal door and adjust the door latch.
All done and work perfect.
Now to the dyed defroster vents. Some of the mounting tab snapped off when removing the nuts on disassembly but I saved the ends. These are hollow so you can run a piece of brass tubing down the center to give a glue joint super strength.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I usually take the trunk lock and the glove box lock to a locksmith and get them keyed alike. I'm one of those weird people who likes to be able to lock stuff up.....lol.
Mix up a little JB Weld and fill the holes then insert the tubing into the hold and align the broken tip...
The ones that I had are reattached and need to dry over night after snipping off the brass tubing to length.
Dash harness for a '72 A-Body from M&H.... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Lots of bucks but they are EXACTLY correct
The only thing that sucks is they don't make the lighting package harness. My Coronet many of the lights are factory so the main harness had a lot of them. A-Bodies seem the map lighting was an cost adder and they used a completely separate harness and a switch that goes in the hole below....
Since this is a '72 we don't need this hood release bracket (did not remember what it was when I painted it).
There are still some detail items and the radio needs to get sent out for retro fitting to bluetooth but it is mostly done.
The ones that I had are reattached and need to dry over night after snipping off the brass tubing to length.
Dash harness for a '72 A-Body from M&H.... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Lots of bucks but they are EXACTLY correct
The only thing that sucks is they don't make the lighting package harness. My Coronet many of the lights are factory so the main harness had a lot of them. A-Bodies seem the map lighting was an cost adder and they used a completely separate harness and a switch that goes in the hole below....
Since this is a '72 we don't need this hood release bracket (did not remember what it was when I painted it).
There are still some detail items and the radio needs to get sent out for retro fitting to bluetooth but it is mostly done.
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These old things are so easy to break into anyway I can't see any reason!
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
That dash is on point. I did something similar to the dash in the chevelle I restored for my X wife. Just enough gloss to make it pop but not overbearing...
JW
JW
Interesting week outside of the Duster but did manage to get some things done in the evening... Pulled the blower motor apart. The wires are hard as a rock but the unit has many many more hours of life left. I ordered some correct color wire and Packard connectors. There will be some customization with the '73 A/C with the '72 harnesses.....
Male and mail.... no workie... Need to change out one end.
Cracked fiberglass is JB Welded, sanded and clear coated. Ready for installation.
Fan is painted and ready to install.
Took the seats to Baca Upholstery in Tucson. He said the seats were not original and had been redone.... I did not believe him completely but we chose some material was very close to what it had. I came home and looked at a piece of material and son of a gun he knows his stuff!
Jan 9 85 is what I read...
New dual channel speaker installed on the original bead blasted and painted mounting brackets.
New defroster ducts fit perfectly.
Mixing a '73 with a '72 what was I thinking.......... HELP.......
Male and mail.... no workie... Need to change out one end.
Cracked fiberglass is JB Welded, sanded and clear coated. Ready for installation.
Fan is painted and ready to install.
Took the seats to Baca Upholstery in Tucson. He said the seats were not original and had been redone.... I did not believe him completely but we chose some material was very close to what it had. I came home and looked at a piece of material and son of a gun he knows his stuff!
Jan 9 85 is what I read...
New dual channel speaker installed on the original bead blasted and painted mounting brackets.
New defroster ducts fit perfectly.
Mixing a '73 with a '72 what was I thinking.......... HELP.......
Only comment for the night is
I hate bow type headliners, especially when you have make the bows and use crappy Universal brackets......
I hate bow type headliners, especially when you have make the bows and use crappy Universal brackets......
Spent a few hours a day this weekend in the garage. Cut the new A-Body roof insulation material to match to original. That was the toughest stuff I have ever had to cut...... Used 3M upholstery adhesive to glue it to the roof.
We then wanted to start a project we could finish..... ha-ha-ha. We opened the Ideal Headliner conversion to install a bow type headliner in the '72 (original was a foam core board and nasty). We struggled for hours and finally threw up our hands and went out for a nice Italian dinner.
You have to install these cheap brackets and cut the bows. The instructions were useless. The original bow clips go in those flat areas which I figured out after installing the first one to the rear of the flat area shown below..
Here is the factory position. IMPORTANT NOTE: After you get these set bend the bottom of the bracket up and fold it over on itself. That way it can't slip down the slot and it is out of the way of the head liner when your trying to get it to lay flat in that area.
This morning we went to pick up the rest of the goodies from the guy we bought the car from and stopped to buy some small clamps to help. These worked PERFECTLY and it came out better than expected! I used 10 clamps and could have used 5 more.
These wrinkles will smooth out when the rest of the moulding and dome light go it but even this is far beyond my expectations after yesterday.
We then wanted to start a project we could finish..... ha-ha-ha. We opened the Ideal Headliner conversion to install a bow type headliner in the '72 (original was a foam core board and nasty). We struggled for hours and finally threw up our hands and went out for a nice Italian dinner.
You have to install these cheap brackets and cut the bows. The instructions were useless. The original bow clips go in those flat areas which I figured out after installing the first one to the rear of the flat area shown below..
Here is the factory position. IMPORTANT NOTE: After you get these set bend the bottom of the bracket up and fold it over on itself. That way it can't slip down the slot and it is out of the way of the head liner when your trying to get it to lay flat in that area.
This morning we went to pick up the rest of the goodies from the guy we bought the car from and stopped to buy some small clamps to help. These worked PERFECTLY and it came out better than expected! I used 10 clamps and could have used 5 more.
These wrinkles will smooth out when the rest of the moulding and dome light go it but even this is far beyond my expectations after yesterday.
A few more shots of the headliner.
Here is the grill I bought from @Moparbrad months ago and had not picked it up from the guy he gave it to. Very nice thanks Brad. Just a couple of cracks that needs reinforcement. What do you use to reinforce those areas Brad?
I was told the correct driveshaft length for a 904 and a B-Body 8 3/4" rear axel is just over 48". We dug through dozens of shafts stacked like cordwood and found nothing. Walking around is yard we found another small pile and low and behold the only 48" shaft in his yard was the last one..... Of course.
Here is the 8 3/4" rear end. We think it is 2.74 gears so they are serious cruising gears. The spring perches had already been removed and it came with brand new perches ready to weld on in the A-body spring width..... and we thought we were getting done with this heavy blasting/painting....
The AC Box is positioned but there is a gap....
Looking at the old Dart photos there is a big donut seal between the cowl and box... I can't find the dang thing. I can't believe I would have thrown it out, I save everything until it is done....
John also gave me a new AC head with the buttons.... now if I can get them off without breaking them. Also what are the odds that switch works.......
Here is the grill I bought from @Moparbrad months ago and had not picked it up from the guy he gave it to. Very nice thanks Brad. Just a couple of cracks that needs reinforcement. What do you use to reinforce those areas Brad?
I was told the correct driveshaft length for a 904 and a B-Body 8 3/4" rear axel is just over 48". We dug through dozens of shafts stacked like cordwood and found nothing. Walking around is yard we found another small pile and low and behold the only 48" shaft in his yard was the last one..... Of course.
Here is the 8 3/4" rear end. We think it is 2.74 gears so they are serious cruising gears. The spring perches had already been removed and it came with brand new perches ready to weld on in the A-body spring width..... and we thought we were getting done with this heavy blasting/painting....
The AC Box is positioned but there is a gap....
Looking at the old Dart photos there is a big donut seal between the cowl and box... I can't find the dang thing. I can't believe I would have thrown it out, I save everything until it is done....
John also gave me a new AC head with the buttons.... now if I can get them off without breaking them. Also what are the odds that switch works.......
Found the AC box to Cowl seal at Detroit Muscle Technologies. Ordered.
John_Lemon
Well-Known Member
Looking good Jim. Tons o' work for sure.
Da-Haaang that AC heater box is massive! Is that original?
I'm glad we didn't have to deal with one. We had enough trouble re-building the non-AC box the way it was.
BTW, your suggestion to move the striker out on our driver side door alignment problem totally solved the problem. Thanks.
You sure have the "gift".
Da-Haaang that AC heater box is massive! Is that original?
I'm glad we didn't have to deal with one. We had enough trouble re-building the non-AC box the way it was.
BTW, your suggestion to move the striker out on our driver side door alignment problem totally solved the problem. Thanks.
You sure have the "gift".
yes that is original.... It is dinky compared to my '68 Coronet.... it was all galvanized metal and weighted a TON.....
Awesome... that one had me scratching my head for quite a while.... it was obvious after I figured it out!
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Nice job with the headliner. I did my own also on my 72 Scamp, but I think next time I'll leave it to the professionals. Lot of hard work.
Moparbrad
You don’t know me
Hey, Jim.
As far as fixing the grille goes, it’s pretty easy. I just Dremel out the cracks and use JB weld or some kind of plastic weld. Then dress it down and use a little filler to clean it up. I’ve fixed a few dozen in the past couple decades and still own a few of them. No problems yet!
As far as fixing the grille goes, it’s pretty easy. I just Dremel out the cracks and use JB weld or some kind of plastic weld. Then dress it down and use a little filler to clean it up. I’ve fixed a few dozen in the past couple decades and still own a few of them. No problems yet!
txstang84
Well-Known Member
I've often wondered about how much of a pain in the butt it is to install the older vinyl headliners because my fiber board one is not so bueno...and the sail panels are literally falling apart.
In your honest opinion, is the juice worth the squeeze? Cuz yours looks like it turned out pretty damn nice.
In your honest opinion, is the juice worth the squeeze? Cuz yours looks like it turned out pretty damn nice.
Yes it is because the foam ones look cheap (as they were) and all I read says the new ABS aftermarket ones the liner separates from the plastic after a few years. Being in Arizona I suspected the heat would make that problem happen even faster.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the quick response and good info. I was having a hard time justifying $330 for the new one with the sail panels...besides, the older style looks better to me, and I'm in Texas so the heat aspect is understood.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
If you have the old grill that came in the car, and it’s busted.....use it to fix the good one with cracks. Scrape some plastic shavings off of the old grill, into a dish. Get enough to fix the crack you’re starting with. Then add a little acetone into the dish with the shavings to make a paste. Have the crack V’d out beforehand, and seperate it just a tad with a toothpick or something. Add your paste made from the same type plastic, work it into the crack and then remove the toothpick. Smooth it out to a slight high spot, and then let it dry and work it out after is ready. It’s a good idea to drill the end of the crack to keep it from cracking further. Try it on a junk piece......it works!
Unfortunately the car did not have any grill but thanks
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
It should be marked somewhere as to the type of plastic. Probably "ABS". If that's the case use ABS cement to glue it back together. Or other proper cement. If possible reinforce the repair from behind with more plastic. You can glue stryrene to it, or try to find the exact right material for reinforcement.
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