DionR
Well-Known Member
Interesting. I thought maybe it was something you had done, that makes much more sense.
You still thinking about a 5 speed, or did that get dropped?
1974 Duster
- Thread starter gdonovan
- Start date
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Interesting. I thought maybe it was something you had done, that makes much more sense.
You still thinking about a 5 speed, or did that get dropped?
5-speed in the Dart (maybe), automatic for the Duster.
I have both a 42RH and a A518 I can use, will mock things up over the winter to see which one I wish to use.
Well, I'm more of an old school racer, I'm happy with the car in general but will be proud when it starts making passes down the track ;-)
Forgot to mention, tried some white LED's in the dash cluster as the oversize bulbs generated too much heat. They have a purple tinge to them when installed, I tihnk they will do.
For the $2.40 for the pair shipped, well worth the effort! I ordered 6 more from the vendor so I can do the rest of the dash and some other areas.
I'll try to post a picture showing the difference soon.
Started pulling the engine out today, some interesting things found.
1) Exhaust manifolds were clearly on the motor when the motor was painted, there was engine paint on the bolts, nuts and washers.
2) The neg battery cable was either not on the motor at the time of painting or well masked off. It is black clear down to the eyelet.
3) The wiring for the brake valve is routed oddly, will try to compare to the '75 Dart I have here and take some pictures.
4) Dakota/Ram/Durango manifold fits perfect on passenger side, drivers side runs into power steering box. I'm going to run a 73/74 340/360 manifold on that side.
1) Exhaust manifolds were clearly on the motor when the motor was painted, there was engine paint on the bolts, nuts and washers.
2) The neg battery cable was either not on the motor at the time of painting or well masked off. It is black clear down to the eyelet.
3) The wiring for the brake valve is routed oddly, will try to compare to the '75 Dart I have here and take some pictures.
4) Dakota/Ram/Durango manifold fits perfect on passenger side, drivers side runs into power steering box. I'm going to run a 73/74 340/360 manifold on that side.
Going to roll it out tomorrow and hit with the bay with the pressure washer. Going to run the 318 manifolds for now, the exhaust is already in place and I can get the car back on the road faster, Worry about the larger manifolds after race season! Still have a bunch of stuff to detail and paint before the car is back on the road..
Gary
Gary
Pressure washed everything in the engine bay. Repaired the side tanks on the radiator and repainted it. Did some price checks on replating the power brake booster. Have to pickup new master cylinder and clearcoat. Have to sandblast and paint a few items. Order a few odds and ends from Eastwoods. Hope to be running on Sunday.
4mulaSvaliant
Well-Known Member
Subscribed! Great thread, better work!
Cleaned and painted the k-frame and ps box.
Sandblasted and painted the power brake booster last night. Not happy with the finish (Eastwoods cad paint) which looks nothing like the original finish! I'm going to get a spare booster cad plated and swap out later. If your thinking about buying Eastwoods cad paint just go to the dollar store and buy some gold paint and save the money.
Hope to be lowering the engine in the bay on Saturday morning.
Sandblasted and painted the power brake booster last night. Not happy with the finish (Eastwoods cad paint) which looks nothing like the original finish! I'm going to get a spare booster cad plated and swap out later. If your thinking about buying Eastwoods cad paint just go to the dollar store and buy some gold paint and save the money.
Hope to be lowering the engine in the bay on Saturday morning.
Tough day yesterday. Got the engine in after a long struggle and it doesn't crank over. Tried installing a mini-starter first but it would not fit for some reason but the original did.
I think the tone wheel on the Durango flexplate is keeping the bendix drive of the starter from coming out. I'm going to pull the starter out this morning along with the shield and see what is going on.
I think the tone wheel on the Durango flexplate is keeping the bendix drive of the starter from coming out. I'm going to pull the starter out this morning along with the shield and see what is going on.
If you plan on using the factory flexplate be advised that the old school starter bendix strikes the tone wheel preventing the car from starting!
I think Chrysler moved the starter location on the A-500 and 42RH (overdrive 904 units) so the same flexplate could be used with the 518/46RE.
The mini-starter I have here will not fit with the 904, there is a section of the starter the strikes the block. There is a large "hole" at the rear near the oil pan rail, looks like 1/4 of the edge has to be removed.
The mini-starter does NOT have the large bendix like the old school starter does. I think I can grind off a section of the block and it just might work.
Otherwise you have to pull the motor out and have the tone wheel machined off.
What a pain..
Car is running, 65 psi of oil pressure! Who would have thought a .480 lift cam would have been so darn quiet?? I feel so outdated, it use to be when you had a .480 lift cam you knew it! SOB idles like a stocker.
I'm going to take a break for a few days, maybe on the road next weekend.
I think Chrysler moved the starter location on the A-500 and 42RH (overdrive 904 units) so the same flexplate could be used with the 518/46RE.
The mini-starter I have here will not fit with the 904, there is a section of the starter the strikes the block. There is a large "hole" at the rear near the oil pan rail, looks like 1/4 of the edge has to be removed.
The mini-starter does NOT have the large bendix like the old school starter does. I think I can grind off a section of the block and it just might work.
Otherwise you have to pull the motor out and have the tone wheel machined off.
What a pain..
Car is running, 65 psi of oil pressure! Who would have thought a .480 lift cam would have been so darn quiet?? I feel so outdated, it use to be when you had a .480 lift cam you knew it! SOB idles like a stocker.
I'm going to take a break for a few days, maybe on the road next weekend.
challengergary
Well-Known Member
Sounds good. I've never built a Magnum engine b4, do you not need to break-in the cam like a regular hydraulic one since it has a roller one?
Nope.
challengergary
Well-Known Member
Cool - another benefit of doing a swap to a Magnum...
One of the biggest reason I'm running one- Never have to worry about the cam wearing out, better lobe profiles, less friction and quieter operation.
alvarezrjjr
Member
hey I am the new kid on the block ,I am starting a build on a 72 duster going to have a lot of questions, please be patient with me I am so EXCITED about the build I almost dont know where to start,so here I go.
I have drums all the way around and want to change out the drums on front to disc and need a list of parts with part #'s if possible and I am going to swap out the slant 6 to a small block stroker and need information on if I need to change any thing in the front suspension , I plan on rebuilding the front end but want to make sure I do it right the first time.Please Help !!
thanks Bob
P.S.
I want to use the stock parts for front disc brake set up,and make it power brakes also.
I have drums all the way around and want to change out the drums on front to disc and need a list of parts with part #'s if possible and I am going to swap out the slant 6 to a small block stroker and need information on if I need to change any thing in the front suspension , I plan on rebuilding the front end but want to make sure I do it right the first time.Please Help !!
thanks Bob
P.S.
I want to use the stock parts for front disc brake set up,and make it power brakes also.
There is a section of the forum that you can post brake questions Bob, off the top of my head I can't help you since my car already has disc brakes.
Last night pulled the p/s pump from a parts car (quieter) and had my GF clean it and the brackets while I installed the throttle linkage and return spring. Cleaned and painted the blower motor, cleaned and painted the heater core support bracket, blasted and painted some p/s mount brackets and thermostat housing.
Two more days... Spend last night assembling the front of the motor (water pump and PS setup) new hoses, blasting and painting parts. Need to pull the manifolds soon so I can clean and coat, need to make spacers for the alternator and reassemble the power brake booster. Motor sounds crisp!
Cooling system is button up'd, installed a bunch of other odds and ends including the power brake booster. P/S pump might not be happy, I think the "ham can" is warped and it looks like it might leak. Have to pull the carb and install a heli-coil in one of the holes and clearance and paint the heat shield. Have to pull the manifolds and coat, still. Set the timing (32 degrees total) The Mopar Performance air cleaner doesn't look like it will clear the hood, good thing I picked up a stocker 340 unit!
Road test Saturday I think, tomorrow will be busy.
Road test Saturday I think, tomorrow will be busy.
Road test!
Spent 6 hours wrenching before heading out the driveway for the afternoon...
Thoughts on the combo- Fair low end (I can spin the tires a few times just by punching the gas, get on the converter a little will cause the tires to instantly go up in flames) mid-range is great with the top end lacking a little something. I'm fairly sure the 318 exhaust manifolds are choking off the top end charge. I plan on getting rid of them this winter.
Engine is quiet with some rocker gear noise at idle (normal for Harlan Sharp roller rockers) good oil pressure, runs cool. Seems to like lots of timing, more than the 318 did.
The exhaust manifold coating Calyx from Eastwood is fantastic, I highly recommend it. Goes on with a toothbrush and cures in just a few minutes.
Problems- The intake is leaking oil at the passengers front corner. I used the magnum end seals from Mopar, I should have used cork. I'll have to pull the intake off next week and fix it.
The power brake booster seems slow to release, I'll have to blast and paint the original and swap them out.
The power steering pump has a very slow leak... I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Gary
Spent 6 hours wrenching before heading out the driveway for the afternoon...
Thoughts on the combo- Fair low end (I can spin the tires a few times just by punching the gas, get on the converter a little will cause the tires to instantly go up in flames) mid-range is great with the top end lacking a little something. I'm fairly sure the 318 exhaust manifolds are choking off the top end charge. I plan on getting rid of them this winter.
Engine is quiet with some rocker gear noise at idle (normal for Harlan Sharp roller rockers) good oil pressure, runs cool. Seems to like lots of timing, more than the 318 did.
The exhaust manifold coating Calyx from Eastwood is fantastic, I highly recommend it. Goes on with a toothbrush and cures in just a few minutes.
Problems- The intake is leaking oil at the passengers front corner. I used the magnum end seals from Mopar, I should have used cork. I'll have to pull the intake off next week and fix it.
The power brake booster seems slow to release, I'll have to blast and paint the original and swap them out.
The power steering pump has a very slow leak... I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Gary
More work on the Duster tonight- Installed the original booster (yay! no more dragging brakes!) much happier with the finish on this one, much closer to OEM.
Sprayed it with a "chrome" paint from wal-mart first as a primer then used Eastwoods Cad paint, finished with gloss clear. Still not correct but much closer to stock and the finish changes as you look at it from different directions.
Blasted the washer nozzles and seat belt relay and painted. The finish on the relay is a touch brighter than OEM but not too bad. Found a heat stove hose local for $8! Sure beats the $40 they are going for on Ebay! Pulled the carb spacer to move the air cleaner away from the hood. Bumped the timing 4 degrees. Need to modify the vacuum can so there is less advance at light throttle.
Still lots of detailing work to do, but the car has come a long way!
Sprayed it with a "chrome" paint from wal-mart first as a primer then used Eastwoods Cad paint, finished with gloss clear. Still not correct but much closer to stock and the finish changes as you look at it from different directions.
Blasted the washer nozzles and seat belt relay and painted. The finish on the relay is a touch brighter than OEM but not too bad. Found a heat stove hose local for $8! Sure beats the $40 they are going for on Ebay! Pulled the carb spacer to move the air cleaner away from the hood. Bumped the timing 4 degrees. Need to modify the vacuum can so there is less advance at light throttle.
Still lots of detailing work to do, but the car has come a long way!
Looks darn good with the white stripes on it!
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