318 1/8 time improvement

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Garrett Ellison said:
That's great! Do you have a gauge on it to confirm you need a regulator? If the bog is gone, it's possibly going to come back if you regulate your fuel pressure down. Excess fuel pressure could be holding causing the floats to close higher than they're supposed to. Dropping the pressure could drop your float height and have you tuning the bog back out. But I would rather have the fuel level running were it's supposed to and then tune the carb to optimum performance. Also, is it idling with the mixture screws turned out now?
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Hey! actually no i dont have a gauge on it to confirm. Yes now the idle screws are at 1.75 turns out i think gotta double check on that. now im going to hook back up the Vcan and see if it pings at light cruise throttle, if it does ill adjust the can with the hex key. i forgot the number stamped on the arm
 
318willrun said:
It this a used carb?
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UPDATE so i got my other slick and my traction bars. only issue the inner flap on the TBARS rubs on my tire. so i had to grind off 1/4 inch but that probably will fix my issue hopefully! these are the universal traction bars on summit in that terrible yellow color lol.
 
Slantsix64 said:
UPDATE so i got my other slick and my traction bars. only issue the inner flap on the TBARS rubs on my tire. so i had to grind off 1/4 inch but that probably will fix my issue hopefully! these are the universal traction bars on summit in that terrible yellow color lol.
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yep, gotta cut the corner off. Make sure they are away from the tire as the tire side wall will flex in and out a little as you drive. I like the yellow!!! :D
 
318willrun said:
yep, gotta cut the corner off. Make sure they are away from the tire as the tire side wall will flex in and out a little as you drive. I like the yellow!!! :D
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oh okay that makes me feel better!! ahahah i hate it my barracuda is brown and that yellow reminds me of a chocolate dipped bananna ahahahha. So i just painted them black
 
Although i did notice the rubber stopper was like half or a inch space before hitting the end of the leaf springs is that normal?
 
Slantsix64 said:
Although i did notice the rubber stopper was like half or a inch space before hitting the end of the leaf springs is that normal?
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I like about 1/2 inch gap. As soon as you begin to brake torq, they should hit the eye of the spring and begin to lift the back end (rear bumper) up about 1 inch. When you floor it at launch, the rear of the car should lift close to 2" That's the traction bars using axle torque to apply pressure on the rear tires. Did you see my video on traction bars?
 
318willrun said:
I like about 1/2 inch gap. As soon as you begin to brake torq, they should hit the eye of the spring and begin to lift the back end (rear bumper) up about 1 inch. When you floor it at launch, the rear of the car should lift close to 2" That's the traction bars using axle torque to apply pressure on the rear tires. Did you see my video on traction bars?
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oh okay! yes i did
 
Went back at it today heres some clips thats me in the notchback and thats my brother in the fastback. If he could launch the car better probably would be a close one



 
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Actually nevermind this was my best time
9.558 @73.21 MPH
R/T .114
60FT 2.148
330 6.198
 
Traction was really good no issues there, i would actually feel the car put the power to the ground, my shifting was crap today though, i feel like the car likes shifting at 5k. going to do some more tweaking
 
"Today" needs explaining! Is irwindale back to running thursday tnt?
I cant find out anything from them, they wont answer a phone, their phone message machine is SO BAD it is unintelligible, and i refuse to join the despicable f#%kbook.
 
So...it basically ran the same (not knowing the DA, humidity, wind speed, etc.)....which is why I said for a slower car (aka, mostly stock) all you need is a sticky tire and a decent shock....and the slapper bars really don't do much.

I did like 318willrun's video on open diff rears, stock springs, and traction bars, it was a good explanation of why they should help in that scenario....but, I don't know hardly any "racers" that use open diff rears. The couple that do use a sticky tire and good shocks and have zero traction issues because their cars don't make enough power to disrupt the chassis on a prepped track surface. The good news is traction bars are cheap...so you really aren't out much money.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Actually nevermind this was my best time
9.558 @73.21 MPH
R/T .114
60FT 2.148
330 6.198
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by the video, it looks like the car hooked fine and worked for you. Do you have headers?
 
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33IMP said:
"Today" needs explaining! Is irwindale back to running thursday tnt?
I cant find out anything from them, they wont answer a phone, their phone message machine is SO BAD it is unintelligible, and i refuse to join the despicable f#%kbook.
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Yup! There open. Back as usual every Thursday
 
Probably next change I’ll do is, magnum heads with a rpm air gap intake. Bigger valves, better flow, and added lift from 1.6 rocker ratio. Plus I can sell my 302 heads and ld4b intake, make some cash back.
 
Probably take some weight out the car, passenger bucket seat, back seat, and rear bumper. Probably help a lil.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Probably next change I’ll do is, magnum heads with a rpm air gap intake. Bigger valves, better flow, and added lift from 1.6 rocker ratio. Plus I can sell my 302 heads and ld4b intake, make some cash back.
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I'd tune what you have, you are still leaving some on the table. For example, my 318 duster ran 9.5's at 74 mph with 2.76 gears, stock converter, no headers, 318 heads and stock bottom end and less compression than a factory A L318 because of the thick head gaskets. I'm not stating "mines" good, I'm stating "yours should be better", especially with 3.91's.
 
318willrun said:
I'd tune what you have, you are still leaving some on the table. For example, my 318 duster ran 9.5's at 74 mph with 2.76 gears, stock converter, no headers, 318 heads and stock bottom end and less compression than a factory A L318 because of the thick head gaskets. I'm not stating "mines" good, I'm stating "yours should be better", especially with 3.91's.
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That’s at the 1/8 of a mile 9.5?
 
Slantsix64 said:
Probably take some weight out the car, passenger bucket seat, back seat, and rear bumper. Probably help a lil.
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I would leave the rear bumper, that is weight in the area where you want it....also to note, the back seat really doesn't weigh a lot, but if you are going all out go for it...just my 2 cents.

Edit: Removing the front bumper (with brackets) is about 33lbs off the nose, which is good. When your car gets faster this will be a very useful change (speaking from experience with my 67 Barracuda).
 
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