318 1/8 time improvement

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I would leave the rear bumper, that is weight in the area where you want it....also to note, the back seat really doesn't weigh a lot, but if you are going all out go for it...just my 2 cents.

Edit: Removing the front bumper (with brackets) is about 33lbs off the nose, which is good. When your car gets faster this will be a very useful change (speaking from experience with my 67 Barracuda).
Cool! Will do! Thanks for all the replies guys!
 
UPDATE, I re checked my timing, and I was way off. Although she didn’t ping it was wayyy to far advanced. Big difference in performance I would have to say I retarded the timing about 5 degrees. Now my total is it 34. Car idles great and starts very good, with out even pumping the gas this morning. Runs about 5-10 ten degrees cooler too!. I can’t believe I over looked this. Lol I seriously feel like I gained 40 H.P
 
Update, so I got a good deal on some magnum heads, swapped them on, added a rpm air gap, removed the power steering gear box for a manual, car pulls to 6k easy and pretty quick, before she would lose steam around 5200, going to remove that heavy passenger bucket seat front bumper rear seat, and going to give it another shot also dialed in the timing correctly.

Only let down is my 3.91 gears took a crap once I did the swap center pin ejected into the gears , now I got 3.55 in it hopefully doesn’t slow me down.
 
Just went to the 1/8 mile yesterday kind of disappointed but not really so my previous time was 9.558 @73.21Mph that was with 3.91 gears and 302 heads slapped bars.

yesterday was 9.333@78mph with the used set of magnum heads but with 3.55 gears and no slapped bars. The reason why I ran the 3.55 is that the 3.91 took a **** on me, and I stripped the u bolt on the slapped bars didn’t have enough time to fix that.

@318willrun I think I got this motor timed and tuned, my big issue is I don’t think it can rev up fast enough and launch maybe a 3kstall converter? I know some tube headers will help. Was hoping to get into a 8.9. But oh well just gotta keep at it.
 
UPDATE, I re checked my timing, and I was way off. Although she didn’t ping it was wayyy to far advanced. Big difference in performance I would have to say I retarded the timing about 5 degrees. Now my total is it 34. Car idles great and starts very good, with out even pumping the gas this morning. Runs about 5-10 ten degrees cooler too!. I can’t believe I over looked this. Lol I seriously feel like I gained 40 H.P

How far was way too far advanced? Considering you have a fast burn chamber designed head have you tried it all the way down to 24 degrees total?
 
You had a nice MPH increase, so that's a good sign you are making more power. 78 mph is enough to get you into the 8's in the 1/8, so you need the car to 60 ft better. You are not off my much!
 
Wallace says you're making about 45 more horsepower, and it might be more than that, considering the rear gear change.
A converter can be a huge improvement. Think about it this way: how much more horsepower is your engine making at 3500, compared to 2000 rpm? 50? 100?
And I agree with 318willrun, 78 mph is enough for 8s, 60 ft is where the et improvement is at.
 
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How far was way too far advanced? Considering you have a fast burn chamber designed head have you tried it all the way down to 24 degrees total?
had my timing around 18 initial with 16mech why I dunno lol after I fixed everything the teen liked a 15 initial and 18mech
 
Wallace says you're making about 45 more horsepower, and it might be more than that, considering the rear gear change.
A converter can be a huge improvement. Think about it this way: how much more horsepower is your engine making at 3500, compared to 2000 rpm? 50? 100?
And I agree with 318willrun, 78 mph is enough for 8s, 60 ft is where the et improvement is at.

Oh man, hopefully I’ll post up the full time with 60 foot times and all that’s. Yeah I wish I could of found out what it would run with the 3.91s too bad the damn case broke.
 
You had a nice MPH increase, so that's a good sign you are making more power. 78 mph is enough to get you into the 8's in the 1/8, so you need the car to 60 ft better. You are not off my much!
Hmm increase my 60ft times , honestly I have the original rear shocks from 67, also on my 3.91s what if I get a new case and weld the spider gears, when I race I can just swap those gears, so you guys think that 3000 stall will help out with my current combo?
 
Hmm increase my 60ft times , honestly I have the original rear shocks from 67, also on my 3.91s what if I get a new case and weld the spider gears, when I race I can just swap those gears, so you guys think that 3000 stall will help out with my current combo?
Converters change the characteristics of a car's behavior more than what most would believe. I cannot say which converter would be right for your application, but yeah, you could just grab a "3000 stall" and see your 60 ft drop, if the tires don't go up in smoke. You want a converter that works with your driving habits and use of the car as well as what your engine needs.
 
Actually i believe it needed less initial and more mechanical timing ti honestly forgot lol
 
I don’t think it can rev up fast enough
In the lower gears, you need Torque multiplication to do that.
In top gear, once wind-resistance gets up, the engine needs more power to do that.
More stall will get you off the line a lil quicker, and thru First gear a lil quicker mostly due to the quicker 60ft.
Trapping not nearly close on the power curve, will cost you more than the gain, of that higher stall. With 3.55s, and 26.5" tires, and assuming 10% slip in the TC, your rpms are gonna be around 5530 in Second and 3810 in Third. Neither of which are remotely correct for that [email protected] cam.
Whatever stall you now have, and whatever stall you get, by the time your car hits 40 to 44mph/shift-rpm, the slip will be about the same; therefore, whatever advantage the higher stall gets you off the line, that power delivery difference rapidly diminishes after the torque peak.
That 203* cam is gonna power-peak close to 4500, but the peak may be hard to pinpoint. In any case by 5000, the power is rapidly falling off. So lets say you outshift First gear at 4800. On the shift, the Rs are gonna drop to 59% =2830.... so your 3000TC is gonna give you 170rpm over the 2200. But you're doing 40/44 mph, so you'll be thru that advantage in the blink of an eye.
To trap in third gear, that combo wants 4.10s to trap 80=~4600, or 4.30s to trap at ~4800. Either of these are gonna wind your 318 up pretty quick.
The 4.10s will give you a lil headroom in case you later decide to pump the compression up.
In any case
I highly recommend a compression test.
 
Converters change the characteristics of a car's behavior more than what most would believe. I cannot say which converter would be right for your application, but yeah, you could just grab a "3000 stall" and see your 60 ft drop, if the tires don't go up in smoke. You want a converter that works with your driving habits and use of the car as well as what your engine needs.
Hmm, okay yeah it’s a bit more complicated I guess I’ll call up a company or put a wanted ad so what pops up
 
last time I did a co
In the lower gears, you need Torque multiplication to do that.
In top gear, once wind-resistance gets up, the engine needs more power to do that.
More stall will get you off the line a lil quicker, and thru First gear a lil quicker mostly due to the quicker 60ft.
Trapping not nearly close on the power curve, will cost you more than the gain, of that higher stall. With 3.55s, and 26.5" tires, and assuming 10% slip in the TC, your rpms are gonna be around 5530 in Second and 3810 in Third. Neither of which are remotely correct for that [email protected] cam.
Whatever stall you now have, and whatever stall you get, by the time your car hits 40 to 44mph/shift-rpm, the slip will be about the same; therefore, whatever advantage the higher stall gets you off the line, that power delivery difference rapidly diminishes after the torque peak.
That 203* cam is gonna power-peak close to 4500, but the peak may be hard to pinpoint. In any case by 5000, the power is rapidly falling off. So lets say you outshift First gear at 4800. On the shift, the Rs are gonna drop to 59% =2830.... so your 3000TC is gonna give you 170rpm over the 2200. But you're doing 40/44 mph, so you'll be thru that advantage in the blink of an eye.
To trap in third gear, that combo wants 4.10s to trap 80=~4600, or 4.30s to trap at ~4800. Either of these are gonna wind your 318 up pretty quick.
The 4.10s will give you a lil headroom in case you later decide to pump the compression up.
In any case
I highly recommend a compression test.

last time I did a compression test was when I install the camshaft, it was at 145 Psi but that was cold and plugs still in other cylinders. I can take another one this weekend.

Thinking of maybe just welding up my 3.91s the center pin is what came out it’s still in there but it was coming in and out during de acceleration , the gears are not damaged, going to see if I can just welded the pin and spiders gear all together add back the slapper bars. The torque converter is a good idea cause eventually I’m going to stick a 5.9 with a lot of camshaft so I can use it with that down the line.
 
Thanks for all your guys help, I know this is a slow street car and appreciate all the advice and also for not telling me to stick a big block in it lol
 
the center pin is what came out
If the pin came out, it's because the roll-pin is broken. That only happens when either the saddles get banged out, or the spiders have welded to the crosspin and spun it
I suppose you could weld it up, but I would take it apart and fix or replace whatever it takes. I keep rebuilt spares around, and swap them in as I wear them out or they break. That way you can also adjust the preload on the clutches.
 
last time I did a compression test was when I install the camshaft, it was at 145 Psi but that was cold and plugs still in other cylinders. I can take another one this weekend.
No; 145 cold tells me all I need to know, as long as they were all pretty even. 145 is actually pretty good for that cam; but it does point to a softer bottom-end, and, the 3000 TC will fix that right up.
 
Checked my stall on my stock converter seems like its around 1600-1700 Rpm it wants to move when applying the brakes does that seem right?
 
heres my plugs what do you guys think, from what i have seen the ground strap indicates timing total and initial.

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Update!
I ended up getting a 2800 stall converter, and ditched the 650 AVS, installed a Holley 600cfm VS
And some tube headers!


The converter really woke up the combo the car launches really hard I can tell this will be a huge benefit!

Got rid of the 650 AVS it was way to big for my engine, I had to have the secondaries adjusted really tight to not get a bog, with the calibration kit I had to lean the carb out it never ran right out of the box or when I tried to tune it!

So what did I do I went with a smaller carb The Holley 4160 VS right out of the box this carb did not have a WOT BOG idled well and ran okay on the top end you could tell the secondaries were opening slow and we’re lean.but with any carb your going to have to tune to get performance.

First I swapped the rear block with a plate and added .074 jets to the secondary,the front are still stock .066

Second I added a 35 size nozzle to replace the stock 31.

There was no WOT BOG and the car pulled hard but until the transition to the secondaries

Third and last thing I did was add a quick fuel adjustable secondary vacuum pod, started at the base line of 1 1/2 turns backed it out and test drove it until it bogged at 6 turns out the engined bogged, went in half a turn a time and ended at 5 turns.

I have never felt this engine run the fast and pull this hard! I never messed with Holley but reading and watching videos I got this carb dialed in quick.

Long tube headers! Well what can I say I don’t think I’ll ever run manifolds in any of my small blocks! I gained a lot just from that swap!

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Next thing I’ll hit the track and see where I am at,

Another mod I was looking at was upgrading my rocker ratio from 1.6 to 1.7 this would give me .481 lift on the exhaust and .465 lift on the intake.
 
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