340 cam for 318

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Yes, then the “why to a 318, etc” questions, I get it though. It’s easy for me to spend someone else’s money!
So now you're gonna have money in shipping there and back, PLUS getting it cam doctored to find out what it is for budget build 318. Budget? I'm lookin at 150 or more bucks just to find out what the cam is. In an otherwise stock 318. You're layin out all this unnecessary expenditure and what if the cam is crap for what you wanna do? Then there goes that 150 or "however much" for nothing, when you couldda just gotten a new one that was more towards what you are doing. Budget? OR you couldda taken the good advice and gotten a degree kit with the money spent findin out what this USED cam is and had a good tool to use the rest of your life. .......because guess what, Sparky? You're gonna NEED a degree kit anyway to install the cam right. ......and after ALL THIS spendin money to find out what a cam IS and you don't degree whatever cam you end up using, then all of this advice everyone has so freely given you is all for naught. Budget? Bud, you haven't a CLUE of a fart in a windstorm how to follow good advice......but I give you one thing. At least you are DOING SOMETHING. That's more than @Dan the man will ever do.
 
So now you're gonna have money in shipping there and back, PLUS getting it cam doctored to find out what it is for budget build 318. Budget? I'm lookin at 150 or more bucks just to find out what the cam is. In an otherwise stock 318. You're layin out all this unnecessary expenditure and what if the cam is crap for what you wanna do? Then there goes that 150 or "however much" for nothing, when you couldda just gotten a new one that was more towards what you are doing. Budget? OR you couldda taken the good advice and gotten a degree kit with the money spent findin out what this USED cam is and had a good tool to use the rest of your life. .......because guess what, Sparky? You're gonna NEED a degree kit anyway to install the cam right. ......and after ALL THIS spendin money to find out what a cam IS and you don't degree whatever cam you end up using, then all of this advice everyone has so freely given you is all for naught. Budget? Bud, you haven't a CLUE of a fart in a windstorm how to follow good advice......but I give you one thing. At least you are DOING SOMETHING. That's more than @Dan the man will ever do.
Or he could just buy the Summit small cam or Melling. Make sure the lifters rotate, and zinc in oil. Every one is scared of the booger man, he's in every box of lifters now. He is just like the Toy you got in a box of cereal. He's just waitin to booger up ya build.....I beez scared too. Going hide back under my rock.
 
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Or he could just buy the Summit small cam or Melling. Make sure the lifters rotate, and zinc in oil. Every one is scared of the booger man, he's in every box of lifters now. Is he ust like the Toy you got in a box of cereal. He's just waitin to booger up ya build.....I beez scared too. Going hide back under my rock.
I was scared chitless of this very recent Chevy 283 build I did, but it turned out good. I used Melling lifters and a Melling camshaft.
 
Wow! $347 for that Isky HFT cam.
We’re not in Kansas anymore.

Before I spent that, I’d look into seeing how much the old 360 2bbl cam is.
I have one
Melling spd25. Check eBay, it's been a couple of years but I found it there for around $100.
The second one of those cans I've bought, the first one was 15 years ago and I drove to some not so good neighborhood in Chicago (they're all like that now) to an obscure automotive machine shop warehouse that I don't remember how I even found, and got that one for $76.
That's cam only but even with lifters bought it was like 1/3 of what I was seeing the almost identical COMP 252 selling for .. and 15 years ago I'd have been more comfortable with a comp brand cam..... Duration, overlap and every other spec than lift was identical to that comp cam, except for 0.015 lift. The first one went in my 83 d 250 that I put EQ magnum heads with the LA intake pattern onto. That came plus those heads a performer intake/ carb (not air gap or rpm, etc) and Carter Brock carb with hooker super comp long tube headers really woke up that 318, especially noticeable in such a heavy truck.
That engine is now in my son's 72 fury wagon. Well over 200k on the engine, the bottom end hasn't been touched since it was assembled by Dodge when brand new. That top end job has about 75k miles on it ....
Though I want a good deal I try to stay away from "cheap" quality parts.
The current spd25 is going into another 318, this one in a 78 fury sport with 56k original miles. I have another one of the same intakes, but this one is getting late 80s '302 heads, and carb is undecided. I have 500 and 600 CFM versions of the Carter Brock here, plus a TQ or 2 to pick from... I have never taken a car down the 1/4 mile and at 57 I don't see it happening in the future. I drive my cars in traffic with everyone else so I don't need a 3/4 race cam etc. I've done the over cam thing before so I admit that I'm gun shy when picking cams. I don't like spending money twice nor so I like redo's very much
 
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Oh yeah. This time I have a set of Mopar performance lifters still in the original cellophane wrap, that came from a member here to pair with that melling cam.
 
lol! I’ll get the one in it out this week, send it off to get measured, who knows, the shop may have picked a decent one.
After all this don't let the shop pick one.:) Just because they are a 'shop' doesn't mean they are all knowing. I've always thought one step above stock was a good way to go...thats 5-8 degrees more duration. There looks to be some good recommendations in this old thread 318 cam shaft selection/upgrade for stock engine. I thought the Mopar Performance P4452757AE cam was in the 'one step up' ball park.
 
After all this don't let the shop pick one.:) Just because they are a 'shop' doesn't mean they are all knowing. I've always thought one step above stock was a good way to go...thats 5-8 degrees more duration. There looks to be some good recommendations in this old thread 318 cam shaft selection/upgrade for stock engine. I thought the Mopar Performance P4452757AE cam was in the 'one step up' ball park.
Guaranteed he's getting the dead BEST advice on the net or anywhere right here on this forum, yet we're all chopped liver. Screw this moron. I'm movin on. He just made the list.
 
So now you're gonna have money in shipping there and back, PLUS getting it cam doctored to find out what it is for budget build 318. Budget? I'm lookin at 150 or more bucks just to find out what the cam is. In an otherwise stock 318. You're layin out all this unnecessary expenditure and what if the cam is crap for what you wanna do? Then there goes that 150 or "however much" for nothing, when you couldda just gotten a new one that was more towards what you are doing. Budget? OR you couldda taken the good advice and gotten a degree kit with the money spent findin out what this USED cam is and had a good tool to use the rest of your life. .......because guess what, Sparky? You're gonna NEED a degree kit anyway to install the cam right. ......and after ALL THIS spendin money to find out what a cam IS and you don't degree whatever cam you end up using, then all of this advice everyone has so freely given you is all for naught. Budget? Bud, you haven't a CLUE of a fart in a windstorm how to follow good advice......but I give you one thing. At least you are DOING SOMETHING. That's more than @Dan the man will ever do.
I don’t discount the need for a degree wheel.
I’ve only had friends do it for me in the past.
But will a degree wheel tell me the .050 duration and the LSA of the cam as well?
I’ve only understood them to make sure the cam was installed in the proper position
 
Guaranteed he's getting the dead BEST advice on the net or anywhere right here on this forum, yet we're all chopped liver. Screw this moron. I'm movin on. He just made the list.
So between this forum and my normal forum, in the past 3 weeks I’ve gone from milling the block and intake to raise the SCR. To just squaring it at 9.58 from the crank centerline.
Then to leaving it as is and focus on the camshaft.
I’ve gathered (between the forums) I want a tight LSA, small duration cam and some lift to open and close the valve quicker.

So since I haven’t just jumped up and went with the first recommendation, doesn’t mean I’m not following advice.
Sorry to have upset you.
 
Baggs, your age please.

Inquiring minds would like to know.

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why? i thought the motor was already assembled? did you change anything in the rotating assembly to necessitate this?
Well, different pistons. Also the advice in this thread by at least one member, and don’t see a reply contradicting that reply.
 
Well, different pistons. Also the advice in this thread by at least one member, and don’t see a reply contradicting that reply.
ah, noted. yes. any changes to the reciprocating ***'y you'll want a rebalance.

i didn't catch that you were changing the pistons. long story line and all...
 
ah, noted. yes. any changes to the reciprocating ***'y you'll want a rebalance.

i didn't catch that you were changing the pistons. long story line and all...
They were put on at the time of the rebuild. I wouldn’t think the shop would have balanced the rotating assembly, so figured it is money well spent.
 
They were put on at the time of the rebuild. I wouldn’t think the shop would have balanced the rotating assembly, so figured it is money well spent.
was it a machine shop or joe dickhead automotive services that built the motor?

if it was a machine shop, i'd assume, mabe incorrectly that they would have balanced it.
 
was it a machine shop or joe dickhead automotive services that built the motor?

if it was a machine shop, i'd assume, mabe incorrectly that they would have balanced it.
Machine shops for the most part won't do anything without customer's approval simply because if they were to the customer can / could deny the charges. And yes I know people that this has happened to.
 
was it a machine shop or joe dickhead automotive services that built the motor?

if it was a machine shop, i'd assume, mabe incorrectly that they would have balanced it.
A machine shop. The thing is it’s not open anymore so I don’t have a way to find out.
 
Machine shops for the most part won't do anything without customer's approval simply because if they were to the customer can / could deny the charges. And yes I know people that this has happened to.
i... i just... i can't with you sometimes.

have you ever had a motor built? your ignorance on this matter is glaring.

don't bother answering because i know it's just gonna be some mealy mouthed half assed "my friend, my dad, people i know, i read that..." kind of response.
 
A machine shop. The thing is it’s not open anymore so I don’t have a way to find out.
if they did good work, and had a half *** respectable reputation i'd bet dollars to donuts it's balanced.

it's a moot point since you're changing **** out though. so whatever.
 
i... i just... i can't with you sometimes.

have you ever had a motor built? your ignorance on this matter is glaring.

don't bother answering because i know it's just gonna be some mealy mouthed half assed "my friend, my dad, people i know, i read that..." kind of response.
Well, I have done several motors over the years. If you're referring to what I said about the machine shop issue, actually I had the experience myself, they bought new parts without my knowledge and parts that I had already bought so I simply refused to pay for them. I know that I don't have your experience or education but that doesn't mean that things that I posted haven't happened.
 
i... i just... i can't with you sometimes.

have you ever had a motor built? your ignorance on this matter is glaring.

don't bother answering because i know it's just gonna be some mealy mouthed half assed "my friend, my dad, people i know, i read that..." kind of response.
On TV, you never saw superman and ckark Kent in the same room. In this post you have both
 
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