360 vs 383

383 or 360 ?

  • overall, 383 all things considered

    Votes: 33 60.0%
  • overall, 360 all things considered

    Votes: 22 40.0%

  • Total voters
    55
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OK, here is some real world data essentially proving that the 383 is not a great or even good performance engine. The data below is from the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drag Race page where you can find the results of their meets going back 25 years. I didn't go through every single year but below was pretty much the only recent incidence I could even find of both subject engines as being entered and competing at the same meet.

To be clear, neither the 360 or 383 shows up on any of their all-time best lists but that makes sense since neither engine was ever considered to be in the same class as the big dog 400+ c.i. engines even when new.

The PSMCDR class rules are pretty strict so I'd say the results are valid. In essence, there are no internal engine modifications allowed and all the original equipment has to be in place including the OE tires. The E.T.s are commensurate with old magazine tests so I don't see anything being fudged to the extent that you'd be skeptical of the performance. Cheating defeats the purpose of the class and is generally frowned on within it's ranks so these guys just don't do it. That's what F.A.S.T. is for and the E.T.s in that class prove that out in spades.

Anyway, below are two entries' (one 360, one 383) results from the same day (9/23/23) to compare. (both cars are 727s.)

1971 Dodge Challenger 383/335, 3,780#, 3.23
15.578 90.97
15.398 91.84
15.993 90.57
15.398 91.78
15.460 91.84

1974 Plymouth Duster 360/245, 3,555#, 3.55
13.677 100.91
13.677 101.29
13.815 99.83
13.754 99.70
13.736 99.44

Based on those results, the 360 Duster was nearly 2 seconds and 10mph better than the 383 Challenger. That's a huge margin.The difference in MPH alone is astounding. For compariosn sake, 340 cars are usually a couple 10ths quicker and usually get down to the 13.2s. 440 cars are usually mid to high 14 second ETs with the Six Pack cars being the exceptions.

The two obvious caveats to the above results are that the Duster weighs 225 lbs less than the Challenger and has a 10% increase in rear gear ratio. It's slight but let's say the Duster has a .025-.030 inherent advantage at the line. Clearly though, that is not worth nearly 2 seconds and 10mph of ET, no way no how.

The factory C.R. for a '74 360 is probably somewhere between 8.4-8.7:1 and came with a Thermoquad. For a '71 383 C.R. is listed at 10:1 but in reality is probably closer to 9.25:1 ith dished pistons. I believe a '71 383 would have had a Holley but don't quote me on that. But even at the lower end of the C.R. ratings, the 383 still has significantly more squeeze. It would be interesting to know where the drivers shifted but it's probably safe to bet that neither engine was run much past 5,500 rpm.

Yes, I 'found this info on the internet' but I trust it to be valid as it's put up by a well-known racing organization for public consumption. There would be no reason to fake this stuff anyway since again, the whole point of the series is to see how fast bone stock cars are in the 1/4 mile.

Discuss.

Let me give you some "real world Data". I grew up in a world of 100+ octane pump gas. Performance began with factory 10:1 to 10.5:1 compression engines. I lived 10 miles from a NHRA 1/4 mile dragstrip. A good number of young men drove muscle cars all the time. We had a quarter mile strip marked off out of town. We would run anyone any time. No one thought a "74" smog 360 Duster was fast, because in that environment they were not. And those were the best of the factory 360 built to make up for the demise of the 340 until the Little Red Express pickup. If you want a 383 to compare, try a 68-70 Road Runner. Heck, just add a cam to any 60's 383 with 10:1 compression, 68 up heads, and any decent intake and 750 carb and you will have a runner.

If you want to go to scenario 3 and 4 then a 360 becomes more viable. Aftermarket heads, pistons with some compression, a stroker kit. It still is not for me. I live in scenario 1 and 2 and have no personal interest in scenario 3 and 4. If I go bigger than a 340 it will be a big block, and a 383 suits me fine. The biggest problem with a big block in an A-Body is the expense and waiting for parts. Not a problem for me. As for rebuilding a 383, they are cheap, you probably won't need to grind a crank, just replace the wear items and pick a cam.
 
BTW.. since people are talking motors in this thread.. is there anyone here that knows for sure how much cam the factory roller LA blocks can take using the OEM spider/dogbones? I had a guy tell me .525 and the lifter bodies will hit the dogbones but i'm at .532 without issue.. (i didn't think to check before i buttoned the motor up)

P.S. obviously that is valve lift
 
ok... 318 is just milking us for video ideas now :)
I guess for me, it's surprising (but not really) that the things that are important to me seem of no value to others. I really think bias rules the mind. LOL
 
I guess for me, it's surprising (but not really) that the things that are important to me seem of no value to others. I really think bias rules the mind. LOL
That's kinda life though.. there is **** that i love, like my drums that 99% of people here couldn't give a **** bout... I am enjoying this conversation though...

I have never owned a small block til this one i'm doing now and i'm enjoying it cause it's different for me and i'm learning a bit plus it falls into my realistic power goals, i don't need 700hp on the street, i need 425-450ish.. with gears and traction that's enough for fun for me.

P.S. BUT... i will say i find every single thing about a big block just easier to do/build...
 
I will say this from experience: I have owned multiple 360's and have not once had one disappoint me. Ever. In pickups, in vans, in Dusters, in Darts, not a one didn't meet my expectations.
 
Let me give you some "real world Data".
OK so anecdotal stories from 50 years ago are more accurate than clear drag strip results from 2023? Just because you lived in a time when high octane fuel was readily available or that you lived near a race track does not change the fact that 383s are not that great and never were. IMO, the race results speak for themselves no matter what lens you view them through.

I also never claimed 360s are inherently faster. Some cars with one of the two subject engines might be faster than others for various reasons. The engine architecture between the two platforms is too disparate to make this a truly valid comparison anyway but that said, at least on paper in stock form, they appear to be relatively similar which makes for an interesting debate.

Believe what you want, I don’t care. I’m also not sure what your point is though other than trying to prove what I posted is somehow invalid compared to some memory of yours that may or may not have happened exactly the way you think it did 50 some-odd years ago.

Look, any engine can be made to run if you put enough time, effort and money into it. There’s a well known ‘71 ‘Cuda 383 combo in NHRA Super stock that runs almost a second under the index which puts it well into the 9 second zone. It’s a bad *** ride even with the lower compression motor.

That’s a $100K + race car though wheeled by a pro who’s been doing it for over 40 years. The engine probably cost $20K to build to that level. It’s also an exception to the norm because you’d be hard pressed to find too many more competitive 383 combos in the upper ranks of NHRA super stock. Why? Because they don’t make sense to use when there are better performing options.

Again, I’m just not a fan of 383s. I wouldn’t choose to build one unless I was trying to fit into a certain class of racing or I was going for a factory correct restoration. The 400 is arguably the best platform to build so there is no logical reason to make things harder by starting with a lesser platform. I don’t need to prove a point that it cam be done, life is too short for that.

I’d also choose a 340 every time over a 360 but since 340 blocks have become unobtanium the 360 makes the most sense for small block builds. They are obviously more plentiful and respond to the same modifications as the 340 does. I believe a similarly modified 360 would be closer in performance to a 340 based combo than the 383 would be to the 400. Prove me wrong.
 
OK so anecdotal stories from 50 years ago are more accurate than clear drag strip results from 2023? Just because you lived in a time when high octane fuel was readily available or that you lived near a race track does not change the fact that 383s are not that great and never were. IMO, the race results speak for themselves no matter what lens you view them through.

I also never claimed 360s are inherently faster. Some cars with one of the two subject engines might be faster than others for various reasons. The engine architecture between the two platforms is too disparate to make this a truly valid comparison anyway but that said, at least on paper in stock form, they appear to be relatively similar which makes for an interesting debate.

Believe what you want, I don’t care. I’m also not sure what your point is though other than trying to prove what I posted is somehow invalid compared to some memory of yours that may or may not have happened exactly the way you think it did 50 some-odd years ago.

Look, any engine can be made to run if you put enough time, effort and money into it. There’s a well known ‘71 ‘Cuda 383 combo in NHRA Super stock that runs almost a second under the index which puts it well into the 9 second zone. It’s a bad *** ride even with the lower compression motor.

That’s a $100K + race car though wheeled by a pro who’s been doing it for over 40 years. The engine probably cost $20K to build to that level. It’s also an exception to the norm because you’d be hard pressed to find too many more competitive 383 combos in the upper ranks of NHRA super stock. Why? Because they don’t make sense to use when there are better performing options.

Again, I’m just not a fan of 383s. I wouldn’t choose to build one unless I was trying to fit into a certain class of racing or I was going for a factory correct restoration. The 400 is arguably the best platform to build so there is no logical reason to make things harder by starting with a lesser platform. I don’t need to prove a point that it cam be done, life is too short for that.

I’d also choose a 340 every time over a 360 but since 340 blocks have become unobtanium the 360 makes the most sense for small block builds. They are obviously more plentiful and respond to the same modifications as the 340 does. I believe a similarly modified 360 would be closer in performance to a 340 based combo than the 383 would be to the 400. Prove me wrong.
Years ago I did a mild 340, then took the heads, intake, cam and did the 360 block. Tried to get the same compression ratio. Same car, gears, exhaust, etc etc.... the 360 went 3 tenths faster.
 
BTW.. since people are talking motors in this thread.. is there anyone here that knows for sure how much cam the factory roller LA blocks can take using the OEM spider/dogbones? I had a guy tell me .525 and the lifter bodies will hit the dogbones but i'm at .532 without issue.. (i didn't think to check before i buttoned the motor up)

P.S. obviously that is valve lift
Guys are running larger cams than that on stock roller setups.

How much lift with stock magnum roller lifters?

It's lobe lift you'd want to consider though, not valve lift.
 
Guys are running larger cams than that on stock roller setups.

How much lift with stock magnum roller lifters?

It's lobe lift you'd want to consider though, not valve lift.
Yup, i just didn't know my lobe lift offhand :) Saw a guy post he's running much more than i am without issue.. so now i know :) Plan to double check next time it's apart...

P.S. i'm only .353 at the lobe, nothing huge.. i just trust the OEM lifters, plus they are cheap so.. win/win
 
Years ago I did a mild 340, then took the heads, intake, cam and did the 360 block. Tried to get the same compression ratio. Same car, gears, exhaust, etc etc.... the 360 went 3 tenths faster.
I'm not saying the 360 did or didn't make more overall power, but at least some of that 3 tenths could be that more than likely the gears and stall suited the 360 better.

One of the main reasons to go larger less gear and stall generally needed.
 
I'm not saying the 360 did or didn't make more overall power, but at least some of that 3 tenths could be that more than likely the gears and stall suited the 360 better.

One of the main reasons to go larger less gear and stall generally needed.
MPH showed the 360 made more power.... by a little
 
I think a 5.9 should be a part of the discussion, it's still a 360 and bolts into the same spot. Most A-Bodies didn't come with a 360 or a 383, and if someone were to be looking at swapping a 360 in, the Magnum is just as much an option as a 383 out of a Roadrunner for the BB swap. If not more just because a 5.9 would be easier to find.

The option for factory roller lifters is huge to me. My brother was just talking about the cost of roller lifters for a BB...ouch.

Add that there are no low deck port EFI intakes, last I checked. Not that the 360 has that many aftermarket options, but it has at least 1 for LA heads and 1 for Magnum heads plus the OEM intake. I know most don't care about EFI, but it is an advantage to me.

I guess there is the option of raised port heads on a 383 and an RB EFI intake, but seems to me the raise port heads are out of production and expensive if you can find them.

That said, I STILL don't know which one I would pick, so I haven't voted.
 
Even though there's is some benefit to run a 383 at lower hp like gearing, a 360 would generally make more sense for most unless you have or would rather invest in the bbm platform, with 360 only place to go is basically 408, starting with 383 is ground floor up to 500+ cid are possible down the road swaps.

In the 475-600+ hp range It seems generally people would move up to a 408, in this range would most say the 383/389 has the advantage over a stock stroke 360/365 ?
 
Some cars run and some don’t, in my early years I had 2 1972 satellites, 4 door get to work beaters. 1 ran like a cut cat, good mileage, the other was a turd, less mileage also. Same cars, carbs rear gear and so on, was the cam off or what, I screwed with timing and such on the lazy one and never could get it to run like the other one.
 
Some cars run and some don’t, in my early years I had 2 1972 satellites, 4 door get to work beaters. 1 ran like a cut cat, good mileage, the other was a turd, less mileage also. Same cars, carbs rear gear and so on, was the cam off or what, I screwed with timing and such on the lazy one and never could get it to run like the other one.

Both were 318 plain janers
I've seen this plenty of times! All the things it could be... just to name a few..
  • better converter?
  • better compression due to less CC head and better deck height?
  • Just simply one engine in better condition than the other?
  • One has a stuck heat riser in the exhaust manifold? (seen this more than once!)
 
@318willrun is this all academic or are you thinking about doing a 383 swap ?
I've had my own reasons of when and why I like each of these in certain environments. I wanted to see what others thought or how they felt about the comparison. I did mention a couple of my reasonings...
  • As for a 383 swap, I haven't found the right project to build my 383 for, but we never know what tomorrow holds....
 
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