where do these tranny levers go. I know the one that is angled in the center goes on the reverse. the other two are different height. does it matter and does the numbers and letters go to the outside.
4 speed shifter problems need help here
- Thread starter trudysduster
- Start date
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can someone tell me where the left and right lever goes on the tranny in the pic above. I know the center one is the reverse. Thanks,Bill
kman521
Well-Known Member
I think you have that wrong.
Look at this link
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=275
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Looks as if one, maybe two of the tabs posted in your pic are for B bodies. Can't quite make out the #'s. Check out Brewers site and look at the tabs listed. When in doubt, give Wayne a call or Jamie Passon.
yep keith, I guess I did have it wrong. I looked at that link and also one of the pics in this thread and I have no idea where I come up with that. I saw a pic somewhere. I might get this thing right one day. Thanks
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Found this on Moparts, might be helpful. Here is the link
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7670906&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Z BAR TO PEDAL RODS
APPLICATION INSIDE -INSIDE HOLE NOTES
62-5 B-BODY 14 3/4” BEND IN MIDDLE
66-70 B-BODY 12” BEND IN MIDDLE
67-UP A-BODY 12 1/2” OFFSET AT END
E BODY + 71-UP B-BODY 13 1/4” OFFSET AT END
SHIFTER MECHANISMS
E-BODY #7180 ON REV ROD
70 B-BODY #7174 ON REV ROD
A/B-BODIES #6353 ON REV ROD
SHIFT ROD LEVERS
1-2 3-4 REV
67-74 A-BODY HURST 891 890 967
63-8 B-BODY INLAND ROW DIR REV
68-74 B-BODY HURST 891 890 967
71-4 B-BODY BENCH 147 146 148
E-BODY 058 057 368
SHIFT RODS
A-BODY 62-70 B-BODY E-BODY 71-4 B-BODY BENCH
REV ROD 16” 7 1/2 25” 13 1/2”
1-2 ROD 13 1/2” 6 1/4” 17 3/4” 12”
3-4 ROD 17 1/4” 10 1/2” 22” 16 1/4”
ALUMINUM SHIFTER ADAPTER PLATES
68-70 B-BODY #6348
68-76 A-BODY #6350
64-65 A-BODY #2298
* INLANDS HAVE NO NUMBER
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7670906&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Z BAR TO PEDAL RODS
APPLICATION INSIDE -INSIDE HOLE NOTES
62-5 B-BODY 14 3/4” BEND IN MIDDLE
66-70 B-BODY 12” BEND IN MIDDLE
67-UP A-BODY 12 1/2” OFFSET AT END
E BODY + 71-UP B-BODY 13 1/4” OFFSET AT END
SHIFTER MECHANISMS
E-BODY #7180 ON REV ROD
70 B-BODY #7174 ON REV ROD
A/B-BODIES #6353 ON REV ROD
SHIFT ROD LEVERS
1-2 3-4 REV
67-74 A-BODY HURST 891 890 967
63-8 B-BODY INLAND ROW DIR REV
68-74 B-BODY HURST 891 890 967
71-4 B-BODY BENCH 147 146 148
E-BODY 058 057 368
SHIFT RODS
A-BODY 62-70 B-BODY E-BODY 71-4 B-BODY BENCH
REV ROD 16” 7 1/2 25” 13 1/2”
1-2 ROD 13 1/2” 6 1/4” 17 3/4” 12”
3-4 ROD 17 1/4” 10 1/2” 22” 16 1/4”
ALUMINUM SHIFTER ADAPTER PLATES
68-70 B-BODY #6348
68-76 A-BODY #6350
64-65 A-BODY #2298
* INLANDS HAVE NO NUMBER
thanks
I believe it is done. I received the shifter adapter yesterday and put it on. put on the shifter. Pinned it in neutral with a 1/4" drill bit. played with the tranny levers, played with the rods and this is what I came up with. I think the B/E shifter worked better. for some reason I cannot see how an a body shifter levers that is any closer together would have allowed the adjusters to be installed. maybe I didn't do something right but this is the finished product as to what I came up with. I had to use a different reverse rod because the one that came with the set hit the bottom of the tranny crossmember. I adjusted all the swivels to where they fit good and put the cotter key in. I pulled the drill bit out and went through the gears and it shifts great. Nothing hits and nothing binds anywhere. not even close. It seems much closer than my Chevelle was. But that was a long time go. look at the pics below and tell my what you think. thanks for all of your guys input. maybe it is on to the next task. Bill
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Glad ya figured it out Bill. Next????
kman521
Well-Known Member
Good stuff :burnout:
next step is to get this body finished up and painted so we's can start putting it back together.
Glad you figured it out.
One more thing to look at is the 3-4 rod going to clear the tranny hump?
One more thing to look at is the 3-4 rod going to clear the tranny hump?
have no idea. have a good welder and a good saw. I am sure it will eventually. dont be giving me any more hurdles to get over. LOL. Bill
LOL
Just giving you a heads up because the bottom bolt in the shifter is really tight to put in.
I actually made a special wrench to torque it, there is like no room in there.
FYI a 71 E-body shifter worked in my last duster with some creative sheet metal work.
thanks, I am getting used to tight .
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I put the shifter on before I lift the trans to put the x-member in....
Hope it helps..
Hope it helps..
I might do that. I plan on putting the engine and tranny in together so that might work better and just lift it up with the floor jack.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
So Bill,
Congrats on the fix.
Just curious though. Was this the overall solution?
By the pictures in the thread to get this to function...
1) Looks like you are using the original shift mechanism. Is that correct?
2) Looks like all the shift tabs and only two of the rods in the purchased kit are being used.
3) A new adapter that canted the shift mechanism forward installed.
4) Changed the 3-4 shift tab direction?
5) Adjustment of the forward gear shift rods are pretty much centered in the threads.
6) But the reverse rod purchased in the kit conflicts with the cross member? That would indicate the rod is too short or possibly the index on the shift tab might be wrong.
What reverse shift rod are you using?
Dave
Congrats on the fix.
Just curious though. Was this the overall solution?
By the pictures in the thread to get this to function...
1) Looks like you are using the original shift mechanism. Is that correct?
2) Looks like all the shift tabs and only two of the rods in the purchased kit are being used.
3) A new adapter that canted the shift mechanism forward installed.
4) Changed the 3-4 shift tab direction?
5) Adjustment of the forward gear shift rods are pretty much centered in the threads.
6) But the reverse rod purchased in the kit conflicts with the cross member? That would indicate the rod is too short or possibly the index on the shift tab might be wrong.
What reverse shift rod are you using?
Dave
I did use the e body shift mechanism. I used all the shift tabs as they were the best solution. I sold the factory ones. I bought an a body adapter plate. The reverse rod did hit the crossmember so I used the one that came with the tranny. I am going to assume that the reverse rod is also an e body reverse rod as it came with the shifter mech and it was a e body. I did bend the reverse rod a little to make it fit like I wanted.
demon428
Well-Known Member
A lot of good info and pic thanks to some great FABO members I am having a problem with the aftermarket reverse lever hitting trans mount I am going to try Brewers
Is it just me or does the reverse rod look wrong? Seems like the bend in it is incorrect. The way the rod drops near the rear of the trans looks like it should be further back. Doesn't look like it will clear the transmission crossmember.
duster731
young gun
I just bought a set of rods from pg classics and this is what I received Lol
I'm going to return them and get the ones from brewers
I'm going to return them and get the ones from brewers
SHIFT ROD LEVERS 1-2 3-4 REV
74-76 A-BODY HURST O/D 064 065 875
64-74 A-BODY HURST Competition + aftermarket 3831 3894 3832
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