408 Cam on the way

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j par said:
Is just as nice in person and takes the time to listen to you and your wants and expectations from your car...
When I first had my Stroker motor built I had Big Daddy Don garlits dreams LOL I said I wanted to be huge I wanted to barely Idol I want to set the world on fire! He said are you sure about that? I said yes! He gave me what I wanted... It couldn't do nothing till about three grand and then it damn near went off like a time-bomb!.. couldn't hold an idle barely for over 15 seconds LOL...
Then I went in and said I'd like it to idle LOL and I'd like to have a little bit more lower end torque and put some different gears in it so I can drive it on the freeway and the street.. And gave me my current cam... And I'm happy with it... I could see myself getting another one and it would be somewhere in between the two...
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J par what are the spec's of your current cam? So we can compare
 
lead69 said:
You need to look at the cams specs again. The thumpr has a BUNCH more exhaust duration to intake as in 14 degrees at .050 and 20 at advertised, his cam has 6 and 6 respectively add in the degree tighter ls and they are not close. The comp xe274 in most all flavors has a 230/236 at .050 duration with a bit less at advertised (depending on where it was measured between cams) than his cam but I wonder what lobes they are using since they only have .515 lift with a 1.6 and have slightly larger advertised numbers so they probably are not xe lobes.

To the op I really like the thumprs and have built several 340s with them and have a few friends running them. They make good power and for as nasty as they sound have great streetability.
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I am currently running a Comp XE274 cam.
I love the cam, I hate the Comp retro Hyd Rollers
 
512Stroker said:
J par what are the spec's of your current cam? So we can compare
Click to expand...
360 block bored 40 over.. Scat cast crank, (internally balanced) scat I beam rods, icon flat top pistons with valve reliefs total seal rings 11.3 to 1 compression .010 above deck.. 596 heads arp bolts with very mild porting with 202 valves. Crower Springs, Smith Brothers pushrods, Hughes 1.6:1 roller rockers.. originally a purple performance hydraulic cam given to Ken at Oregon cam grinders and ground into a solid lifter part number 175... At 259 intake 267 exhaust 107 lobe separation and 582 - 603 lift. Then he ground it leaving the 107 lobe separation making it a one-off cam, but with the rest of the specs being a part number 1313 which consists of it 238 248 duration and a 506 526 lift..
This all attached to a 440 source billet flywheel with arp bolts act technologies diaphragm clutch with arp with a Hays clutch disc.. a833 transmission topped with a Hurst v gate..
Into a Portland Driveline specialties Driveline with solid U-joints to a Dana 60 with a spool 354 gears 35 spline axles with green bearings and two and a half inch studs...
Oh yeah and I just put a Nitrous system on it un tested...lol..
 
Idaho said:
I admit, my understanding of cam specs is limited. Can you comment on what to expect from what I ordered?
Click to expand...

I have a roller regrind from Ken 214/224 @50 with a 110 lsa and .512 lift.
Iit's pretty nice for building torque but sounds pretty mild.
If I were to, (and I may) get another cam it will be from them but with a little more duration though not as much as yours probably.
Ken hit this one on the nose for what I asked out of it.

Yours should be pretty nasty sounding and run good both.
Here's a link to a video of my exhaust with Flowmaster 40's and 2.5 dual exhaust.
www.letsgocomputers.com/movies/idlesound.mov
 
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lead69 said:
Forgive me if I missed it but I don't know much about your combo and what you are hoping for.
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My mistake for asking that question without the info.

It's going into a 69 Dart resto mod, maybe 3200 lb? Just a tire burning street cruiser, maybe a rare 1/4 mile.
360 Magnum with stroker kit
9.8 static CR
RHS heads by IMM
Air gap intake
750 Holley carb
Dougs 1 5/8 headers
A833 OD (has to be a stick)
4.10 diff
28" rear tire (285/40/18 IIRC)
HDK front susp.

Dart HDR 2 small.jpg
 
TrailBeast said:
I have a roller regrind from Ken 214/224 @50 with a 110 lsa and .512 lift.
Iit's pretty nice for building torque but sounds pretty mild.
If I were to, (and I may) get another cam it will be from them but with a little more duration though not as much as yours probably.
Ken hit this one on the nose for what I asked out of it.

Yours should be pretty nasty sounding and run good both.
Here's a link to a video of my exhaust with Flowmaster 40's and 2.5 dual exhaust.
www.letsgocomputers.com/movies/idlesound.mov
Click to expand...

That sounds nice. Gives me some perspective. Is there a thread with more on your car?
 
j par said:
360 block bored 40 over.. Scat cast crank, (internally balanced) scat I beam rods, icon flat top pistons with valve reliefs total seal rings 11.3 to 1 compression .010 above deck.. 596 heads arp bolts with very mild porting with 202 valves. Crower Springs, Smith Brothers pushrods, Hughes 1.6:1 roller rockers.. originally a purple performance hydraulic cam given to Ken at Oregon cam grinders and ground into a solid lifter part number 175... At 259 intake 267 exhaust 107 lobe separation and 582 - 603 lift. Then he ground it leaving the 107 lobe separation making it a one-off cam, but with the rest of the specs being a part number 1313 which consists of it 238 248 duration and a 506 526 lift..
This all attached to a 440 source billet flywheel with arp bolts act technologies diaphragm clutch with arp with a Hays clutch disc.. a833 transmission topped with a Hurst v gate..
Into a Portland Driveline specialties Driveline with solid U-joints to a Dana 60 with a spool 354 gears 35 spline axles with green bearings and two and a half inch studs...
Oh yeah and I just put a Nitrous system on it un tested...lol..
Click to expand...

Nice. That's a fair bit wilder than where I'm headed. Is there a thread on the car?
 
Idaho said:
That sounds nice. Gives me some perspective. Is there a thread with more on your car?
Click to expand...

Sorry, no build thread or anything just scattered mentions and small video's here and there.
I don't post much of what I do with my car because I don't want to hear it.:D
You know, you should have done this, and I would have done that.
That's about to change here pretty soon because I'm going to need some video camera practice.
I'll probably get that practice on the cars we have here, so people will be seeing more of them in more detail than they have before.
 
Idaho said:
Nice. That's a fair bit wilder than where I'm headed. Is there a thread on the car?
Click to expand...
Dozens of build threads over the years..
You name it I'm shot at being built.... Could even includes other engines that I put in there and other automatic transmissions as well again you name it... Front end being built? Homemade headliner being built? Rear end being built..
 
Thumper lovers comp tjhumper lobes are on page 12 of the comp lobe catalog no .904 lobes
Roll your own based on your needs
following as some cams in the Thumper range
[email protected] .050 .200 lift .200 where avilable
Engle K56 274 224 149 .336 .504

XE275HL 275 231 153 .525 110LCA IC 64 ABDC Smallest comp .904 lobe

Lunati 704 276/284 234/242 .513/.533 110LCA Voodoo

Howard 277/283 230/236 531/537 110 LCA

340 cam 279 210 .429 2899206 intake @.006 stock 340 cam for comparison at 0.006

Thumper 279-296 227/241 486-473 107

318 Whiplash ??? 213 480 109 LCA Hughes

340 Whiplash ?? 223 550 107 LCA Hughes

Purple Plus 280 233 148 .316 ,474 smallest Comp PP .904 lobe

Rattler 281 227 .480 Howard

voodoo 279 234 .513 voodoo intake lobe
XE-HL 279 235 153 .356 .534
...............006 .050 .200 lift
Howards 279 256 232 152 .357 .535

Engle K58 282 230 148 ,343 ,514 [email protected]

The super long exhaust makes no sense to me if headers or late/ aluminum heads and long even for stock heads
ask yourself are you limited to half inch lift
It would seem that the 340 Whiplash would Thump the Thumper and Rattler
and the top four cams would be a better choice or get those lobes ground on whatever LCA floats your boat
The bottom 4 are a little bigger than the thumper intake but may have a better intake/ exhaust split some exhaust lobes are not shown U pick
 
Wyrmrider said:
Thumper lovers comp tjhumper lobes are on page 12 of the comp lobe catalog no .904 lobes
Roll your own based on your needs
following as some cams in the Thumper range
[email protected] .050 .200 lift .200 where avilable
Engle K56 274 224 149 .336 .504

XE275HL 275 231 153 .525 110LCA IC 64 ABDC Smallest comp .904 lobe

Lunati 704 276/284 234/242 .513/.533 110LCA Voodoo

Howard 277/283 230/236 531/537 110 LCA

340 cam 279 210 .429 2899206 intake @.006 stock 340 cam for comparison at 0.006

Thumper 279-296 227/241 486-473 107

318 Whiplash ??? 213 480 109 LCA Hughes

340 Whiplash ?? 223 550 107 LCA Hughes

Purple Plus 280 233 148 .316 ,474 smallest Comp PP .904 lobe

Rattler 281 227 .480 Howard

voodoo 279 234 .513 voodoo intake lobe
XE-HL 279 235 153 .356 .534
...............006 .050 .200 lift
Howards 279 256 232 152 .357 .535

Engle K58 282 230 148 ,343 ,514 [email protected]

The super long exhaust makes no sense to me if headers or late/ aluminum heads and long even for stock heads
ask yourself are you limited to half inch lift
It would seem that the 340 Whiplash would Thump the Thumper and Rattler
and the top four cams would be a better choice or get those lobes ground on whatever LCA floats your boat
The bottom 4 are a little bigger than the thumper intake but may have a better intake/ exhaust split some exhaust lobes are not shown U pick
Click to expand...

Cool info. Thanks. Sorry if I didn't clarify, I've already chosen, it's in the works. Just making conversation about it, and interested to get some idea what to expect from those who know more than me.
 
You have what you have, looks matched to me. Based on the car and everything else listed if you get it to hook (drag radials) IMO that should be a high 11’s beast easily, and if you work at it, maximizing everything by methodical tuning etc vs. throwing money at it and changing out stuff for more trick things for example: suspension parts, I’d think mid 11’s. Anyone disagree or think it would run even better?
 
12many said:
You have what you have, looks matched to me. Based on the car and everything else listed if you get it to hook (drag radials) IMO that should be a high 11’s beast easily, and if you work at it, maximizing everything by methodical tuning etc vs. throwing money at it and changing out stuff for more trick things for example: suspension parts, I’d think mid 11’s. Anyone disagree or think it would run even better?
Click to expand...

Thanks. My original thought was something capable of breaking into the 12s. That was before going with a stroker.
 
Idaho said:
My mistake for asking that question without the info.

It's going into a 69 Dart resto mod, maybe 3200 lb? Just a tire burning street cruiser, maybe a rare 1/4 mile.
360 Magnum with stroker kit
9.8 static CR
RHS heads by IMM
Air gap intake
750 Holley carb
Dougs 1 5/8 headers
A833 OD (has to be a stick)
4.10 diff
28" rear tire (285/40/18 IIRC)
HDK front susp.

View attachment 1715513649
Click to expand...
Nice solid street build for sure, I also run an od a833 and love it. I think that cam will work good for what you have, its a touch small for my taste but it will have torque for miles. The only thing I would say is it will not idle quite like a thumpr but it will still have a nice lope and great street manners.
 
lead69 said:
Nice solid street build for sure, I also run an od a833 and love it. I think that cam will work good for what you have, its a touch small for my taste but it will have torque for miles. The only thing I would say is it will not idle quite like a thumpr but it will still have a nice lope and great street manners.
Click to expand...

Well, my thought was to lean a bit toward torque. Your description is about what I was going for. I guess the final proof is yet to come but I'm optimistic.
I plan to install advanced 4 degrees as long as Ken agrees. I suppose I could always try it straight up later for more top end.
I'm about to put steel bushings in the A833 OD. Found a friend with a Bridgeport I can use to do that, and open up my bellhousing to fit the bearing retainer which will be turned down on his lathe.
Glad you're liking yours. Is it stock or modded?
 
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Idaho said:
Well, my thought was to lean a bit toward torque. Your description is about what I was going for. I guess the final proof is yet to come but I'm optimistic.
I plan to install advanced 4 degrees as long as Ken agrees. I suppose I could always try it straight up later for more top end.
I'm about to put steel bushings in the A833 OD. Found a friend with a Bridgeport I can use to do that, and open up my bellhousing to fit the bearing retainer which will be turned down on his lathe.
Glad you're liking yours. Is it stock or modded?
Click to expand...
Steel bushings??..
 
Idaho said:
Well, my thought was to lean a bit toward torque. Your description is about what I was going for. I guess the final proof is yet to come but I'm optimistic.
I plan to install advanced 4 degrees as long as Ken agrees. I suppose I could always try it straight up later for more top end.
I'm about to put steel bushings in the A833 OD. Found a friend with a Bridgeport I can use to do that, and open up my bellhousing to fit the bearing retainer which will be turned down on his lathe.
Glad you're liking yours. Is it stock or modded?
Click to expand...
You definitely won't have a problem with torque!, I would be tempted to degree it in straight up myself, at any rate it will be a handful on the street when the clutch is dumped. Mine is a stock rebuilt cast iron case od that I had the bearing retainer machined down to fit my lakewood bell. The gear spread is as bad as they say but with a stroker the torque really helps cover it and that's where the cam you have will really shine. Eventually mine will hit the track and I am expecting less than optimum times for the hp but its a sacrifice I am willing to make for streetability with no cutting or thousands of dollars spent.
 
lead69 said:
You definitely won't have a problem with torque!, I would be tempted to degree it in straight up myself, at any rate it will be a handful on the street when the clutch is dumped. Mine is a stock rebuilt cast iron case od that I had the bearing retainer machined down to fit my lakewood bell. The gear spread is as bad as they say but with a stroker the torque really helps cover it and that's where the cam you have will really shine. Eventually mine will hit the track and I am expecting less than optimum times for the hp but its a sacrifice I am willing to make for streetability with no cutting or thousands of dollars spent.
Click to expand...

Nice to have the cast iron case. I've heard many do fine with just the aluminum case but since I can do it I will.
 
lead69 said:
You definitely won't have a problem with torque!, I would be tempted to degree it in straight up myself, at any rate it will be a handful on the street when the clutch is dumped. Mine is a stock rebuilt cast iron case od that I had the bearing retainer machined down to fit my lakewood bell. The gear spread is as bad as they say but with a stroker the torque really helps cover it and that's where the cam you have will really shine. Eventually mine will hit the track and I am expecting less than optimum times for the hp but its a sacrifice I am willing to make for streetability with no cutting or thousands of dollars spent.
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Don't forget to p.m. me when you take it down to the track! I want to be there for sure... I'm positive with your accompanying trick flow heads LOL you'll have the last laugh...
 
j par said:
View attachment 1715514489
I think when I rebuilt my 4-speed I put in new bearings, seals, synchros, and steel shift forks and new shifter throws and new shifter ears just to tighten everything up...
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I was going to do the same but when I got in there everything was so pristine I decided to just do the bushings.

3AE32CFD-1978-4687-95C0-7351B3CE275A.jpeg


0E311E6E-7699-46DD-80DF-195B10D888F0.jpeg
 
nm9stheham said:
Don't look at the 5 degrees difference in the .050" lift... look at the 13 degrees increase in the advertised duration. That is where the overlap is coming and excessive overlap is what causes the erratic idling.
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Not all of it. The big duration split with late exhaust valve closing adds to it as well. Of course, you can argue those two features also add overlap.
 
Idaho said:
I was going to do the same but when I got in there everything was so pristine I decided to just do the bushings.

View attachment 1715514696

View attachment 1715514697
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When I open my transmission up I was surprised that wasn't messed up. Something terrible happened at the track at the starting line and it turned out to be the rear end LOL it was one of those things that if I'm going to do this and I'm going to take it apart this far I'm going to spend the extra fifty bucks for synchros..
And the shifter levers were more so for the part that sticks out of the case we rounded a little bit and not gripping the shifter ears nice and tight and I wanted a nice tight shift..
 
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