408 Stroker Build / Intake Question

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SassyGrassScamp

My Addiction Has Begun
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I have a clean '71 360 block and just purchased a set of bare J heads....I plan stroking to a 408 and installing 2.02/1.60 valves with possibly a roller set up....

I'm starting to collect parts as the budget dictates and am looking for ideas on a unique single 4bbl intake....What do you guys think might be a good choice for an intake that I can port match to my J heads....I plan on opening these heads up to suck some air. I WANT HOSEPOWER. (and torque too)!

TIA.
 
Either a Mopar Performance M1 Single Plane or a Edelbrock Performer RPM
 
your biggest problem will be the j heads for HP, i would go with a 2.05 intake valve, and maybe have a pro port them if you want to stick with the factory heads.
 
Can I fit 2.05's in the J's? If so, what's the max exhaust valve size?

The biggest set up is usually 2.08 intake and 1.60 exhaust. I cant say Ive ever seen any change the exhaust side come to think of it.

There are a number of head porters on the site. Im sure they will chime in. All of them have good reputations yet different opinions on what works so be prepared, LOL
 
2.05 /1.62 exhaust 11/32 stem ferra valves. 2.08 will fit without moving the guide over but its got to be right on.
 
The problem with the exhaust is not the valve size but the port shape, all out exhaust ports have the floor welded up and reshaped.
 
I am doing basically the same thing right now (408 stroker in a 72 scamp) only mine is a magnum 360 and just did some pretty serious research. if you plan to run it on the street at all but still want good strip performance I would go with an edelbrock rpm airgap. unless you plan to spin your stroker motor past 6500 there really isn't anything better. it will give you great power down low for better streetabillity and still pull very hard on top. if you plan on running hydraulic lifters this manifold would be ideal since hydraulic lifters cant handle more than 6500 R's anyway. if you want to go strip only and plan to run rpms past 6500 with a solid roller cam and dont mind ajusting your valves all the time, a victor would probably be the way to go. I went the hydraulic route because I do want to drive my car on the road a bit and figure I can always throw a small 100hp nitrous shot at it and run faster than I could with the strip only solid cam /victor motor.:-D
 
I just did mine as well with J heads. They were 1.88, but are now 2.02 with a 5 angle grind. I'd tell you more but I didn't start it yet :d
 
I have a clean '71 360 block and just purchased a set of bare J heads....I plan stroking to a 408 and installing 2.02/1.60 valves with possibly a roller set up....

I'm starting to collect parts as the budget dictates and am looking for ideas on a unique single 4bbl intake....What do you guys think might be a good choice for an intake that I can port match to my J heads....

Well, getting past everyone opion on the heads......and to the real question at hand....a intake, unique as you put it, is a litle difficult to do.

AdamR said a M-1 single plane. While the intake itself isn't exactly unique, a T-Q on top would be weird to see.

But, back to the "Intake."

A old Offenhauser "Port-o-sonic single plane spreadbore intake is well documented in the MP engines book. Link provided to Summit racing, sorry, no picture.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OFY-6074/

or the squarebore version

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OFY-6073/

Or a tunnel ram from Weiand. (MoPar used to also have one in there catologs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-1995/

The seldom seen, "NEW" single plane intake from Edelbrock.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2815/?image=large

I'd love to recomend a daul quad low level, but the Offy part is no long made and it may not perform well for your combo. I have no real exp. with it except to say it was a short runner low rise divided single plane.

Theres also the ever so super expensive STR-15 cross ram from Edelbrock or the just as hard to find dual plane dual quad Edelbrock as well.
 
I am doing basically the same thing right now (408 stroker in a 72 scamp) only mine is a magnum 360 and just did some pretty serious research. if you plan to run it on the street at all but still want good strip performance I would go with an edelbrock rpm airgap. unless you plan to spin your stroker motor past 6500 there really isn't anything better. it will give you great power down low for better streetabillity and still pull very hard on top. if you plan on running hydraulic lifters this manifold would be ideal since hydraulic lifters cant handle more than 6500 R's anyway. if you want to go strip only and plan to run rpms past 6500 with a solid roller cam and dont mind ajusting your valves all the time, a victor would probably be the way to go. I went the hydraulic route because I do want to drive my car on the road a bit and figure I can always throw a small 100hp nitrous shot at it and run faster than I could with the strip only solid cam /victor motor.:-D

SSToys, you bring up a good question I didn't address....I do want the car to be streetable and run well on good pump gas with track time being very limited....She'll be a driver and make the local show stops.

I want something that will stop people in their tracks when I tap the key, and be able to kick *** on the street when needed....I've always gone with hydraulics, but am considering solids....I don't mind tinkering with the valve adjustments.

Everyone else....Thanks for the tips and knowledge.
 
if you want a dual plane high rise intake like an eddy airgap i would go crosswind or professional products , why ? because they are identical , cheaper and dont have the casting problems of the eddy airgap like i show in the photos

if you go single plane foget about the m1 go with a victor it just works better

Better_front_view2.jpg


Full_view_on_intake2.jpg
 
wow, your edelbrock airgap does look bad. could most of that be the gasket? what brand are those gray gaskets? my felpros were almost a perfect fit on my airgap. I could probably just have bolted it on without any mods and it wouldn't have made a difference. is that even a gasket or someones porting template??? the bolt holes don't even line up. LOL
 
For what you want to do...Edelbrock RPM,or RPM AirGap,hands down.

On the street it will out perform any of them,and built in the USA Brother !!!
 
actually only a $28 difference in price between the two and I believe summit has a $25 rebate on the air-gap right now (says so in the listing for them below)which would bring it down to a $3 difference. Isn't P.P stuff made in china? notice what engines the Professional products manifold fits? Dodge "ford" and chrysler small blocks! LOL serious type O.
Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7576/
Professional products crosswind
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-55026/
 
wow, your edelbrock airgap does look bad. could most of that be the gasket? what brand are those gray gaskets? my felpros were almost a perfect fit on my airgap. I could probably just have bolted it on without any mods and it wouldn't have made a difference. is that even a gasket or someones porting template??? the bolt holes don't even line up. LOL

its no mine the photos are from mrlperformance and he says that is a problem whit the eddys , he is a pro building engines so i believe him

here is the link to his page ,he explains why he uses crosswind instead of airgap

http://mrlperformance.com/
 
Edelbrock started advertising the small block Magnum Air Gap several months before they ever made any available in the marketplace.

I lusted after one for over 6 months, and was told that casting problems were holding up production (per the Edelbrock office.). I was frustrated, because it seemed like a great manifold, for a street/strip car, like I was trying to build. I hate buying foreign-made parts.

But, I really needed a manifold, and the Professional Products manifold was available, so I bought one. Turns out, it's not really a carbon copy of an Air Gap, but, close... My engine is supercharged (Vortech), so if there are any actual flow differences between the two, the blower would probably make it hard to tell.

When I got the manifold, I placed a MoPar factory intake gasket on the mating surface, and the port-alignment looked okay to me. There were no places where it looked like it was even close to the edge of the port, so, I used it without any grinding at all, anywhere.


My only problem was that I am using a 750 Holley 4150 double pumper, with float bowl extensions, and I ran into clearance problems on the back, left (passenger) side of the carb where the rear accelerator pump needs clearance to work when the throttle is opened. Professional Products could have placed the vacuum fitting hole in the manifold farther from the carb base, and it would have alleviated that problem, entirely. As it was, I had to grind away a lot of the fitting to get it to clear the accelerator pump arm.

I couldn't raise the carb with a spacer, to deal with that problem, because of hood-closing issues (no hood scoop.)

I've run this manifold for about a year, now, and have had no problems of any kind, with up to 10 pounds of boost and several drag strip runs. My 360 Magnum with a nearly stock short block, made 445 RWHP and 470 RW torque on a DynoJet chassis dyno with av gas and 10 pounds of boost, in case anyone was curious about how the manifold worked. Nearly stock Magnum heads.

So far, I'm happy with it, but I was thinking about replacing it (for "political" reasons) with an Edelbrock Air Gap in a couple of years, but now, I'm gun-shy; those photos are scary....:angry7:
 
How much power do you want to make??..my 416 made 520 h.p. 500 tq..using a Edelbrock Air Gap,if you go the single plane route i'd use a victor 340..whatever you do DON'T waste your money on those chinese ripoff professional products intakes.anyone i know has had issues with them..as for that photo in a previous reply thats exately what a professionals intake looked like when Vic Edelbrock himself showed it on a program i was watching,gasket mismatch was just one of the issues,in fact there are a few guys here that after buying the "chinese" junk,went out and bought an Edelbrock and saw better performance from their motors..
 
In a previous note, I said, in relation to the Professional Products Air-Gap copy manifold, "I've run this manifold for about a year, now, and have had no problems of any kind, with up to 10 pounds of boost and several drag strip runs. My 360 Magnum with a nearly stock short block, made 445 RWHP and 470 RW torque on a DynoJet chassis dyno with av gas and 10 pounds of boost, in case anyone was curious about how the manifold worked."

Six hours later, Stroked 340 said, " whatever you do DON'T waste your money on those chinese ripoff professional products intakes.anyone i know has had issues with them..."

I don't know if he didn't read my post, or if he just chose to ignore it.

I tried, unsuccessfully, to buy the Edelbrock manifold at the time of purchase, but there were none available. I don't like buyng merchandise made in China, or anywhere but here, but I felt I had no choice at the time.

But, as I said, it has worked out, in this instance, with zero problems, except for the location of that boss for the vacuum fitting.

Just thought I'd reiterate that.:read2:
 
How much power do you want to make??..my 416 made 520 h.p. 500 tq..using a Edelbrock Air Gap,if you go the single plane route i'd use a victor 340..whatever you do DON'T waste your money on those chinese ripoff professional products intakes.anyone i know has had issues with them..as for that photo in a previous reply thats exately what a professionals intake looked like when Vic Edelbrock himself showed it on a program i was watching,gasket mismatch was just one of the issues,in fact there are a few guys here that after buying the "chinese" junk,went out and bought an Edelbrock and saw better performance from their motors..

Thanks Stroked....I make every attempt in every aspect of my life to buy American even if it costs me a little more....I stay away from the chinese parts.

As far as power goes, I'd like to be in the 500hp range....It's a light car and I think that should be more than enough power for a killer street/strip car.
 
In a previous note, I said, in relation to the Professional Products Air-Gap copy manifold, "I've run this manifold for about a year, now, and have had no problems of any kind, with up to 10 pounds of boost and several drag strip runs. My 360 Magnum with a nearly stock short block, made 445 RWHP and 470 RW torque on a DynoJet chassis dyno with av gas and 10 pounds of boost, in case anyone was curious about how the manifold worked."

Six hours later, Stroked 340 said, " whatever you do DON'T waste your money on those chinese ripoff professional products intakes.anyone i know has had issues with them..."

I don't know if he didn't read my post, or if he just chose to ignore it.

I tried, unsuccessfully, to buy the Edelbrock manifold at the time of purchase, but there were none available. I don't like buyng merchandise made in China, or anywhere but here, but I felt I had no choice at the time.

But, as I said, it has worked out, in this instance, with zero problems, except for the location of that boss for the vacuum fitting.

Just thought I'd reiterate that.:read2:
Thanks Bill....Your help is appreciated.
 
sounds like there are fans of both the P.P and the EDDY. while I am sure the professional products manifold will bolt on and work fine, I wouldn't personally own one just for the simple fact that they are made in china. to me a large part of the pride and fun of owning and restoring a vintage muscle car comes from the nostalgia involved. collecting original equipment "American" hard to find parts and adding quality nostalgic speed parts that add to not only the cars performance but also to its history and even its resale value. my cell phone and TV may be made in china but you will not find a "zingfu" distributor under my hood no matter how much money it saves me.. todays cars are for the most part "throw away cars". they will never be restored and no one will be sad to see them finally disappear from the road one day with their sun rotted plastic dash boards and underpowered imported 1.8 liter engines. nostalgia is what keeps our vintage US vehicles alive and drives us to spend so much more money on them than we should. think about it, if 2 identical cars were sitting next to eachother at a car show and you popped both hoods to find one has an original 440 six pac intake and some polished M/T valve covers and an MSD and the other has a chinese made no name intake, chinese made distributor, a pair of poorly chromed chinese stamped steel valve covers with partly melted plastic 440 emblems glued on them , which would you take a picture of and dream about owning?
 
sounds like there are fans of both the P.P and the EDDY. while I am sure the professional products manifold will bolt on and work fine, I wouldn't personally own one just for the simple fact that they are made in china. to me a large part of the pride and fun of owning and restoring a vintage muscle car comes from the nostalgia involved. collecting original equipment "American" hard to find parts and adding quality nostalgic speed parts that add to not only the cars performance but also to its history and even its resale value. my cell phone and TV may be made in china but you will not find a "zingfu" distributor under my hood no matter how much money it saves me.. todays cars are for the most part "throw away cars". they will never be restored and no one will be sad to see them finally disappear from the road one day with their sun rotted plastic dash boards and underpowered imported 1.8 liter engines. nostalgia is what keeps our vintage US vehicles alive and drives us to spend so much more money on them than we should. think about it, if 2 identical cars were sitting next to eachother at a car show and you popped both hoods to find one has an original 440 six pac intake and some polished M/T valve covers and an MSD and the other has a chinese made no name intake, chinese made distributor, a pair of poorly chromed chinese stamped steel valve covers with partly melted plastic 440 emblems glued on them , which would you take a picture of and dream about owning?
Amen to that, buy American only..............
 
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