See that plate running side to side on the front of my trans mount crossmember? 1/4" plate steel, that sucker isn't flexing anytime soon. I tend to drift towards overkill when in doubt, I'm still going to add some small plates topside just to be safe.
42RH / A-500 in a Duster with pictures.
- Thread starter gdonovan
- Start date
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See that plate running side to side on the front of my trans mount crossmember? 1/4" plate steel, that sucker isn't flexing anytime soon. I tend to drift towards overkill when in doubt, I'm still going to add some small plates topside just to be safe.
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
THANK YOU!!!!!!!
you just made my life easy.
well, easier than i was making it with my tunnel mods for my TKO swap.
i love thius forum.
Just a quick note- The driveshaft was dropped off Friday to be cut down and I finished assembling the overdrive unit this weekend and cleaning the main case. I trimmed the ribs off the back of the tailshaft where the brake cable runs past. I'm concerned that I took too much off as that is where the rear roller bearing is, time will tell though.
All part of the learning process!
If all goes well the trans should be in the car by the end of this week.
All part of the learning process!
If all goes well the trans should be in the car by the end of this week.
Yup, the only way to be sure. I'm only mentioning them in this build so I don't forget ;-) Of course if you have a Duster with an 8.25 rear and spool mount engine with factory mounts the length should work for you as well.
68dodge
Well-Known Member
Very nice Job. Keep the info coming. I always wanted to try this swap.
Bulk of the trans is back together and had a successful air test, everything sounds good! I have some stuff to pick at tonight and hope to have it back in the car this weekend. I still have to modify the valve body, I'll install that after the trans is in the car.
I'm curious to hear how the test drive goes in terms of the NVH level. I tried a similar design rear mount modification to install a long tailshaft 727 in my Duster and it made a wicked vibration harmonic at certain rpm's. Finally ended up going back to re-integrating the stock-type mount after exhausting numerous other troubleshooting steps.
I hope to know Wednesday if this week goes well- I spent yesterday afternoon doing some final work to the case (seals, tapping threaded holes, new fasteners, band adjustments) and getting ready to tear down the valve body after reviewing the shift kit instructions which I purchased 6 years ago for my Durango!
My post from the 14 th or 15 th on this subject seems to be missing.
Did I do something wrong?? Or was my message removed on purpose?? Just curious.... Certainly didn't mean to offend, just share info. Todd
Did I do something wrong?? Or was my message removed on purpose?? Just curious.... Certainly didn't mean to offend, just share info. Todd
rednesss
Well-Known Member
What's that bar running side to side that's bolted into your subframe connectors??
Read the very first post- all posts not directly related to the install of a 42RH into an A-body will be removed.
"PS: Please do not inquire in this thread about weakness or strengths of the 42RH / A-500, transmission upgrades or how it will be shifted into overdrive and lockup. The narrow focus of this thread is how to install one in a car, period. "
Finally! Finished some support brackets tonight to tie the hoop to the tops of the cross-member on both sides. Coated the brackets and floor with POR-15, pictures tomorrow! If I'm in luck the trans will be in Friday nice and I'll be driving this weekend.
Gary
Gary
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
i thought that 4th is controlled by the solenoid in the trans? our 46RH only has PRND21 like a 727 but has the 3 pron plug-in (not the N safety)...
gates are the same for the above as far as i know... PRND21
I may have to consider this swap for my big block dart. I just picked up a 4.56 Dana. With the OD I would actually be able to drive the car to the track. I have the JW bellhousing for a big block to 904/500 trans.
Mike
Mike
The overdrive unit is too large, there is no room for the bellcrank through the floor plus no mounting bracket for the tab on the other end.
Success!!
Just back from the cruise to Burger King on the Berlin Turnpike and the car was great!
The lower first gear set (2.74 vs 2.45) and slightly looser converter have noticeable snap off the line, it bangs through the gears with authority and cruise is simply a joy! The overdrive and lockup have lopped over a 1000 rpm off at cruise, where before I was buzzing the hell out of the motor at 65 mph now it turns a leisurely 2000 rpm while cranking along at 80 mph! For once I was passing everyone on the highway instead of being passed all the time!
The sweet spot is between 75-80 mph, the car is just loafing along, very little pedal is needed to maintain speed and the cabin noise is notably less. Very simple to toggle the overdrive and lockup on and off and compare the changes. I have it wired so that lockup and overdrive comes in at the same time, very simple and works great. The motor doesn't seem to mind the load at all till around 1400 rpm or so. 1500 rpm and up and it just pulls away on the highway & state roads.
Shown in the first picture is one of the plates I made up for the floor pan. It bridges across the top of the trans cross member and ties it into the hoop for a little more rigidity. Maybe overkill but better safe than sorry.
Car has a few nitpicks like a rattling exhaust and minor pan leak (I need to get rid of the crappy NAPA gasket and get the real Mopar one) and I have to tweak the valve body as it likes to shift a touch later than I'd like at light throttle...
There is utterly NO harshness or vibration caused by the Chevy trans mount, it worked like a charm.
All in all I'm very pleased with the upgrade, I'll try and post a trans build up soon. Go for the upgrade! This is an awesome mod for our old Mopars!
Gary
View attachment DSCN5940sd.jpg
View attachment DSCN5942ss.jpg
Just back from the cruise to Burger King on the Berlin Turnpike and the car was great!
The lower first gear set (2.74 vs 2.45) and slightly looser converter have noticeable snap off the line, it bangs through the gears with authority and cruise is simply a joy! The overdrive and lockup have lopped over a 1000 rpm off at cruise, where before I was buzzing the hell out of the motor at 65 mph now it turns a leisurely 2000 rpm while cranking along at 80 mph! For once I was passing everyone on the highway instead of being passed all the time!
The sweet spot is between 75-80 mph, the car is just loafing along, very little pedal is needed to maintain speed and the cabin noise is notably less. Very simple to toggle the overdrive and lockup on and off and compare the changes. I have it wired so that lockup and overdrive comes in at the same time, very simple and works great. The motor doesn't seem to mind the load at all till around 1400 rpm or so. 1500 rpm and up and it just pulls away on the highway & state roads.
Shown in the first picture is one of the plates I made up for the floor pan. It bridges across the top of the trans cross member and ties it into the hoop for a little more rigidity. Maybe overkill but better safe than sorry.
Car has a few nitpicks like a rattling exhaust and minor pan leak (I need to get rid of the crappy NAPA gasket and get the real Mopar one) and I have to tweak the valve body as it likes to shift a touch later than I'd like at light throttle...
There is utterly NO harshness or vibration caused by the Chevy trans mount, it worked like a charm.
All in all I'm very pleased with the upgrade, I'll try and post a trans build up soon. Go for the upgrade! This is an awesome mod for our old Mopars!
Gary
View attachment DSCN5940sd.jpg
View attachment DSCN5942ss.jpg
Well that didn't take long!
I have a pinhole leak at this location from grinding off too much meat, I'm going to fix it with epoxy and see how it holds up. Pictures tomorrow. Worse case is I'll pull the unit and have a buddy weld it up if the epoxy doesn't hold. Perhaps a set screw in the spot would work too, hmm...
All these things will be a great help to the rest of us. Thank you
Here is my fix list-
1) Drop the pan and swap gasket for Mopar one.
2) Drainplug in pan while I'm at it.
3) Drain tailshaft by pulling speedo gear and epoxy housing.
4) Rubber hose on cable where it passes housing so it doesn't abrade when e-brake brake is on.
5) Shim mount slightly to raise back of trans, perhaps.
6) While pan is down, pull valve body and tweak to improve 4th gear apply. Good but can be better!
7) Add extra hole to kickdown lever to change ratio.
8) Pressure switch mounting.
Valve body is tweaked, tailshaft is expoy'ed and brake cable has a rubber line over it. Tomorrow the drainplug should be here and I'll have the pan back in place and road test. Can't really change the ratio much, the level has a big bend right at the end but I think I have it fixed anyway.
Have some scrap aluminum from work that will make a great shim, will be done tomorrow.
In the picture you can see where the case broke through, don't repeat my mistake! When the brake is applied it pulls the cable up real close.
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