FlamesAreWicked
Well-Known Member
I’m compiling a list of all parts needed to do a 4spd swap in my 68 Dart GT 318. It currently has a 904 automatic. I’m trying to cover all bases parts wise for when I go to do the swap (once the heat of summer time starts to drop some). The trans and clutch was sourced from a 71 Swinger with a 340
I just bought a big pile of parts from Brewer’s that arrives tomorrow that should cover the literal nuts and bolts of the swap.
Cast iron 23 spline A833 4spd with small block bell housing.
Shifter linkage and shifter
Clutch fork and boot
Mcloed street clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and flywheel. The flywheel has been resurfaced and I picked up a new throw out bearing.
Z Bar with service kit from brewers (pivot balls, bushings, keepers, and hardware
Brewer’s pedal assembly
Rod from pedal to Z bar and firewall boot
Rod from Z bar to clutch fork
New steel floor hump
30 spline yoke for 7260 joint and new replacement joint
Shift boot and ring that mounts to the floor
Pivot ball bracket that’s welded to the frame rail
New ARP bolts for flywheel, pressure plate bolts, bell housing to engine, and from bell housing to trans
Speedo gear O ring kit to reuse the gear in the 904. I probably need a new Speedo cable too since my current is either stuck or broken
Lower dust shield that goes under the bell housing
Bell housing starter seal
Later model pilot roller bearing
I will need new carpet of course but as far as the installation goes, it’s not technically required. I will put new carpet and also replace the current old style starter with a later starter from a magnum engine. I’m also gonna go head and put a new trans mount since mine is 50+ years old.
Am I missing anything? Any help would be appreciated. I also have a new reprint copy of the 1968 service manual.
My main concern is the pilot depth may not be deep enough. It’s possible that it’s deep enough but not the right ID, that’s where the roller bearing comes in. I’m looking at the possibility that the input shaft may need to be shortened slightly. I did buy a Brewer’s clutch alignment tool that’s basically made from an input shaft. It wasn’t much more than the usual plastic ones. If that thing seats properly then theoretically the trans will too since it’s the same shaft essentially.
I plan to document it all and I’ll take as many photos of the process as I can.
As far as the adjustment rod for the clutch, is there a general starting point it needs to be adjusted to?
How long would the average two guys take that’s mechanically inclined to do this swap?
I’ll have to figure out the neutral safety switch and the reverse light indicator. If they aren’t a must to have it running and driving, I’ll add that after the fact. I’m really hoping my rear main isn’t leaking because if it is, I may just pull the engine and trans out in one unit so I can fix that while I’m at it.
Anyhow, I’m super stoked to finally see this dream come to be and I’m also a little intimidated about it out of the lack of experience of this specific job.
I just bought a big pile of parts from Brewer’s that arrives tomorrow that should cover the literal nuts and bolts of the swap.
Cast iron 23 spline A833 4spd with small block bell housing.
Shifter linkage and shifter
Clutch fork and boot
Mcloed street clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and flywheel. The flywheel has been resurfaced and I picked up a new throw out bearing.
Z Bar with service kit from brewers (pivot balls, bushings, keepers, and hardware
Brewer’s pedal assembly
Rod from pedal to Z bar and firewall boot
Rod from Z bar to clutch fork
New steel floor hump
30 spline yoke for 7260 joint and new replacement joint
Shift boot and ring that mounts to the floor
Pivot ball bracket that’s welded to the frame rail
New ARP bolts for flywheel, pressure plate bolts, bell housing to engine, and from bell housing to trans
Speedo gear O ring kit to reuse the gear in the 904. I probably need a new Speedo cable too since my current is either stuck or broken
Lower dust shield that goes under the bell housing
Bell housing starter seal
Later model pilot roller bearing
I will need new carpet of course but as far as the installation goes, it’s not technically required. I will put new carpet and also replace the current old style starter with a later starter from a magnum engine. I’m also gonna go head and put a new trans mount since mine is 50+ years old.
Am I missing anything? Any help would be appreciated. I also have a new reprint copy of the 1968 service manual.
My main concern is the pilot depth may not be deep enough. It’s possible that it’s deep enough but not the right ID, that’s where the roller bearing comes in. I’m looking at the possibility that the input shaft may need to be shortened slightly. I did buy a Brewer’s clutch alignment tool that’s basically made from an input shaft. It wasn’t much more than the usual plastic ones. If that thing seats properly then theoretically the trans will too since it’s the same shaft essentially.
I plan to document it all and I’ll take as many photos of the process as I can.
As far as the adjustment rod for the clutch, is there a general starting point it needs to be adjusted to?
How long would the average two guys take that’s mechanically inclined to do this swap?
I’ll have to figure out the neutral safety switch and the reverse light indicator. If they aren’t a must to have it running and driving, I’ll add that after the fact. I’m really hoping my rear main isn’t leaking because if it is, I may just pull the engine and trans out in one unit so I can fix that while I’m at it.
Anyhow, I’m super stoked to finally see this dream come to be and I’m also a little intimidated about it out of the lack of experience of this specific job.
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