6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project

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'Cuda_ragtop said:
Switched to Poly-Locs and gained a few mm of clearance.
View attachment 1715232634

Should clear the steering shaft now.

View attachment 1715232635

View attachment 1715232636
Still a ways to go before I will know if everything is going to fit.
I know it will fit...
I just won't know how much more work there will be to get it there until I do.
Next up:
Trans, TC, Flex plate, starter, pitman, idler, lower ball joints, center link, tie rods...

Having never done this combined with a G3 going into an A-Body makes it pretty slow going.
Only takes time and money... just wish I had more of both.
Click to expand...

Curious if the manual steering box has to be used or if a power unit could be used with a G3?
 
I can tell you this for sure, 2010 Jeep 5.7 manifolds clear manual gear. As do the TTI headers. When fitting the manifold, I highly doubt they would clear factory power gear. Now let's be clear, before the barrage of" I did this, I did that, this works, that doesn't work", I only have experience with factory K member and TTI A-body spool conversion mounts.
 
408 swinger said:
I can tell you this for sure, 2010 Jeep 5.7 manifolds clear manual gear. As do the TTI headers. When fitting the manifold, I highly doubt they would clear factory power gear. Now let's be clear, before the barrage of" I did this, I did that, this works, that doesn't work", I only have experience with factory K member and TTI A-body spool conversion mounts.
Click to expand...

Ok I am using 6.1 Jeep manifolds, not the 5.7. Guess I’ll see if it fits and it not, go manual.
 
Let us know, please. I have acquired a set of those, and, am very curious.
 
clinteg said:
Curious if the manual steering box has to be used or if a power unit could be used with a G3?
Click to expand...
I tried Jeep SRT manifolds first. Could have made them work with some grinding and/or double U-Joints or... nah, no grinding and no double u-joints...
I ended up going with TTi Headers to clear everything.
Firm Feel 16:1 Manual steering gear but it will be EPAS, Electric Power Assisted Steering.

Stock Power steering has been done but more of a challenge to fit.
Quite a few have gone with a Borgeson Box which is quite a bit smaller than a stock mopar box.

EPAS has been part of our plan and budget from early on.
I like that it will look like manual steering under the hood. No Pump, no Fluid, no pulley, no belt, no leaks, no parasitic HP drain on the engine except the Alternator load and only when you turn the wheel.
Dial in the amout of assist you like with a dash mounted potentiometer.
 
Pulled the hood, fenders, header panel and front valance this weekend so I could work on the sloppy hood hinges... Pulled the hinges and drilled out the rivets to separate the hinge piece from the spring assembly. Going to **** can the clock springs and convert to gas struts/props mounted below with the 10mm ball stud installed where the rivet used to be. 90* bracket with the 10mm ball for the lower end will mount in the corner of the inner fender adjacent to the lower door hinge where there is double thickness and a 90* angle that will allow through bolting the bracket through 2 sides.
Will post some pictures when I get the hinges back from my painter.
 
I heard the Toyota Yaris EPAS setup is nice and really compact and only needs an ign sw hot and chassis ground to make work.
 
'Cuda_ragtop said:
Pulled the hood, fenders, header panel and front valance this weekend so I could work on the sloppy hood hinges... Pulled the hinges and drilled out the rivets to separate the hinge piece from the spring assembly. Going to **** can the clock springs and convert to gas struts/props mounted below with the 10mm ball stud installed where the rivet used to be. 90* bracket with the 10mm ball for the lower end will mount in the corner of the inner fender adjacent to the lower door hinge where there is double thickness and a 90* angle that will allow through bolting the bracket through 2 sides.
Will post some pictures when I get the hinges back from my painter.
Click to expand...

These are just mock-up pictures. The hinges I'm using are at my painter's shop.
will be some drilling and welding to do when I get the hinges back from paint...
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What are you using for struts and brackets? I put a setup on my 07 mustang GT like this and love it compared to a prop rod, but that was a bolt on setup made for it. I'd love to duplicate this on my sons 69 cuda and my 67 cuda
 
moparmat2000 said:
What are you using for struts and brackets? I put a setup on my 07 mustang GT like this and love it compared to a prop rod, but that was a bolt on setup made for it. I'd love to duplicate this on my sons 69 cuda and my 67 cuda
Click to expand...
Not proven yet or calculated but this is what I have.
Amazon
Manufacturer Part Number GS-000327
upload_2019-7-18_17-26-34.png

Also Amazon Lower Brackets
upload_2019-7-18_17-30-19.png
 
Installed the hood hinge/struts today.
I drilled and through bolted the bottom brackets with the 10mm ball studs on them and installed a ball stud in the hole where the rivet was drilled out to removes the factory springs.
Very happy with how well they work.
Quiet, smooth, no deflection at all and nothing holding the hinges on yet. Just bolted to the hood and slid the hinges over the pivot/posts on the body.
The lower mounting points in the corners and the ball stud on the hinge have zero flex or twist under load. Thought I would need bushings on the pivot/posts to prevent deflection but looks like that won't be needed. Just the stock keepers that slide on over the posts will keep them secure...
150 lb. force per strut works well enough but I'm going to try 180 lb. force struts for a little stronger hold open.
Also going to flip the struts 180* to Rod Down position. I read that will help preserve the life of the seals and keep the rods lubricated, helps keep the gas in and extends the working life of the struts too.
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What did you use for the ball stud on the other end? I would love to duplicate this on my sons car, and ditch those creaky assed springs.
 
moparmat2000 said:
What did you use for the ball stud on the other end? I would love to duplicate this on my sons car, and ditch those creaky assed springs.
Click to expand...

The modern gas shock replacement is a nice modification, but your factory springs will be quite, smooth as butter and work perfectly as designed IF you would simply pack the spring spirals with grease....and work it in (lots of up /down with the hinge). Who knew we would still be using these springs almost 50 years after they were made.....they just need a little TLC.
 
HemiDenny said:
The modern gas shock replacement is a nice modification, but your factory springs will be quite, smooth as butter and work perfectly as designed IF you would simply pack the spring spirals with grease....and work it in (lots of up /down with the hinge). Who knew we would still be using these springs almost 50 years after they were made.....they just need a little TLC.
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Had one spring fail in a big way. That's fun...
Then the used replacements I bought off FABO were sloppy and bowed sideways rubbing against the fender.
Maybe if I had a pair that weren't sloppy but I didn't have any laying around, couldn't find any local and buying another 50 year old pair without being able to put my hands on them first to make sure they weren't sloppy just didn't make sense to me.
Done with it now though.
 
HemiDenny said:
The modern gas shock replacement is a nice modification, but your factory springs will be quite, smooth as butter and work perfectly as designed IF you would simply pack the spring spirals with grease....and work it in (lots of up /down with the hinge). Who knew we would still be using these springs almost 50 years after they were made.....they just need a little TLC.
Click to expand...
I have greased em with Aeroshell 22 all temp synthetic grease, worked the snot outta em. still creaky.
 
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