6 spd swap progress

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Im gonna use an ACT GM012 pressure plate, slightly used Zoom Kevlar disc, 440 source flywheel and a Dorman replacement slave cylinder. Current engine is a 450-500hp station wagon engine so I didnt want to go overboard on a clutch. Next engine combo will be 700+hp hopefully. The Quicktime bellhousing makes a 10.5 clutch mandatory.
 
I had it running ,I went to bleed the slave cylinder and everything went wrong from there.The slave cylinder doesn't go far enough into into the pressure plate.I just found out they make spacers for the back of the slave cylinder to push it farther into the pressure plate.I will be making one tomrrow. Mark
 
I guess anywhere from about .100 to .200 is what you want for TO bearing to pressure plate fingers for clearance. Bottom out the TO bearing to the trans and across with a straight edge to the mounting face of the trans, record that measuement. Measure PP fingers to face of bell same way and the difference is your clearance.
 
BigBlock Dart did a really sanitary Viper 6-speed conversion.If you get in a tight spot, contact him. I've been thinking about it, and it's time to stop thinking, and start doing.
 
Im getting ready to get ready to finish welding the under side of the T-bar crossmember,seam seal and paint the tunnel, got pedal shaft bushings today to reassemble and install pedal box, pull engine, install Road Race pan, clean and repaint engine, weld up and brace the K, modify K to clear RR pan, check bellhousing runout, and then I might see some light at the end of the tunnel......Gonna need a new exhaust to since the trans mount is right where the H pipe is/was.
 
My dream transmission,lol.. I almost typed "my dream tranny" and thought,naaaaaa......
 
Haha! So far it has been an ultimate pita! Dint have to do everything I have but figured since I wanted a Road Race pan might as well pull the engine since the trans and exhaust already gone. Then I decided to drop the K member and weld it up and refinish it as well.
 
Hi looks good and thanks for putting it up on site. Ive 1 ? how does the speedo work can you tell us . thanks
 
The speedo output on the trans is electronic so you can wire it to an Autometer programmable speedo. Or you can use a Speedhut GPS speedo, which is what I did.
 

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72BBSwinger said:
The speedo output on the trans is electronic so you can wire it to an Autometer programmable speedo. Or you can use a Speedhut GPS speedo, which is what I did.
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Thank you cant get any more accurate then a GPS
 
Just a note--Are you worried at all about the force of the t-bars twisting as the suspension loads and un-loads????? I know you tied in a brace over the top of the trany but there is alot of stress on the back of the t-bars as they load and un-load????? I don't know that's why I'm asking--Steve
 
GPS is cool. My brother in law's speedo in his pos quit,so he had an app in his smart phone. His phone was mounted to the dash the whole trip out here,better than 800 km's he drove with a GPS-MPH app on his phone as his speedo...
 
swifter said:
Just a note--Are you worried at all about the force of the t-bars twisting as the suspension loads and un-loads????? I know you tied in a brace over the top of the trany but there is alot of stress on the back of the t-bars as they load and un-load????? I don't know that's why I'm asking--Steve
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Yes, totally! I was and thought long and hard about a solution. First off the car already had frame connectors so they would have to twist along with the tbar crossmember. The replacement crossmember is made of 2x1/2x3/16" C-channel that I slid into the t-bar crossmember channels. Then I ran 1/8 plate in the C-channel up to the first bends on each side and then some 1" pieces in the top bends. That's all welded together solid. Then I made the crossmember tie into the frame connectors about 8" behind the tbar crossmember so that would have to twist as well. I'm not worried about it any more. If the car had to rely soley on the C-channel id be worried a little. I think its gonna be even stiffer than before. Try bending or twist a piece of that C-channel even without the plating. You would need a 10 ton press for that.
 
72BBSwinger said:
Yes, totally! I was and thought long and hard about a solution. First off the car already had frame connectors so they would have to twist along with the tbar crossmember. The replacement crossmember is made of 2x1/2x3/16" C-channel that I slid into the t-bar crossmember channels. Then I ran 1/8 plate in the C-channel up to the first bends on each side and then some 1" pieces in the top bends. That's all welded together solid. Then I made the crossmember tie into the frame connectors about 8" behind the tbar crossmember so that would have to twist as well. I'm not worried about it any more. If the car had to rely soley on the C-channel id be worried a little. I think its gonna be even stiffer than before. Try bending or twist a piece of that C-channel even without the plating. You would need a 10 ton press for that.
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I worried about that in my 200R4 swap. I also had subframe connectors that would have to twist first. The C-channel used to make the cross member is so strong I can't see it moving. I also used a torque strap as well just to be on the safe side. That c-channel isn't going to move anyway, though. I wouldn't worry if I were you.
 
Just out of curiosity, is the stock upper crossmember section welded to the floor pan in any way (spot, seam, etc.)? Been looking through several different trans swaps and the tunnel mods and on some it seems like they aren't joined in any way from the factory. I was planning on plug welding the floor to a replacement crossmember or something to help add some rigidity if it wasn't already there from the factory.
 
Map63Vette said:
Just out of curiosity, is the stock upper crossmember section welded to the floor pan in any way (spot, seam, etc.)? Been looking through several different trans swaps and the tunnel mods and on some it seems like they aren't joined in any way from the factory. I was planning on plug welding the floor to a replacement crossmember or something to help add some rigidity if it wasn't already there from the factory.
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I think there was about 6 spot welds on the factory crossmember. My new floor seams met at the new crossmember and are welded together and to the crossmember in on pass.
 
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