JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Maybe this will help. 
63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)
- Thread starter Dne007
- Start date
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in color too!! Do I still need a ballast resistor? 
mygasser
Well-Known Member
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I have a ballast resistor on my 71 Challenger that has a MP Ignition kit in it, but it still has a factory 3 wire alternator. I'm not quite sure if the alternator is the determining factor for a ballast resistor or not?
The MP instructions with the ignition kit says to cut the unused green wire with red tracer off plum up to the plug.
The MP instructions with the ignition kit says to cut the unused green wire with red tracer off plum up to the plug.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Be careful wiring your ignition using this diagram. The yellow wire is not correct. You don't want to run that to your starter relay. My '68 was wired that way when I got it and when I brought the RPMs up, it triggered the starter relay. No bueno.
The ignition coil and on Mopars the ignition box are determining factors for a ballast resistor. In short, if you are using the Mopar style electronic ignition with the factory style ignition box, you must use a ballast resistor. @halifaxhops can give you the hookup if you need one.
De thats a aftermarket box 1 ohm will do it.
Carry a spare the transistor is in the potting and prone to wear out.
OMG, the cool front came through and it's glorious here! I'm not sure what the ballast resistor came out, suppose it will work. Got the radiator to fit my stand, ordered a carburetor, spark plug wires, hm, Does this system use a starter solenoid? like on a fender? All the others were easy for my Bronco with the solenoid on the inner fender.
oh, I have the old valve cover, I see some mutilate a valve cover for valve adjustments? Any pics or is it worth it? Will it make a mess without something to catch the oil?
oh, I have the old valve cover, I see some mutilate a valve cover for valve adjustments? Any pics or is it worth it? Will it make a mess without something to catch the oil?
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
I worked at a shop that was Mopar only in the 70's for Larry Callahan (Big Daddy Mopar LOL). We had 2 sets of 273 valve covers cut open to do adjustments with. It was handy but we were doing a lot of cars so it was worth it. If you had an old one that would never be needed...sure why not.
It would have wound up in the trash, so I hope this helps keep the engine a little cleaner when adjusting valves. Even the cut piece makes a good cover;)
mygasser
Well-Known Member
you could tack a 'piano hinge' along the pass' side so you can flip the top back for adjustments, lol.
neil.
neil.
Gee all the \6’s I’ve adjusted over my 30 year career and since I retired 26 years ago haven’t splashed oil out of the valve area .
You may find the cut cover unneccessary. Slants oil the top end dribbling oil out of the rocker arms. I've never had one splash or drip, even when setting hot with the engine running. YMMV of course, but it's a whole lot cleaner operation than my old 350 Chevy.
It was just something to do, it was going to be trashed anyway, it was all banged up, just making use of it;)
I thought it came out nice. It's a good idea.
Well, have to have fuel 
~ the cover on the hose is temporary, just makes it look neat. I'll put some small brackets in the mix. I may have to change it all up when the alternator is here, but, meh, good experience playing the fuel line. Fuel filter will go before the pump in my case. I think I'll make a little "heat shield" at the bend by the exhaust manifold.
dne'
~ the cover on the hose is temporary, just makes it look neat. I'll put some small brackets in the mix. I may have to change it all up when the alternator is here, but, meh, good experience playing the fuel line. Fuel filter will go before the pump in my case. I think I'll make a little "heat shield" at the bend by the exhaust manifold.dne'
I have seen it recommended and done such, as in route the fuel live over the valve cover, get less heat that way.Well, have to have fuel
dne'
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I remember back in '70 when I inherited my 66 Plymouth Valiant, the fuel line going over the valve cover,(have no idea why I remember that) I think it was pure laziness running it that way looking back. I'll take precautions to prevent exposure to heat from the E manifold. I can always change it if it comes to that;)
I have had my share of slants, and in the summer especially, I can well remember fuel boiling away like crazy!! That oem hard line from pump on is right there where it gets HOT!!!
Help! I got the cheapy carburetor today, looks cheap and am not going to use it, sending it back to Amazon tomorrow. This is the carburetor on the two barrel manifold when I got it. It's a Carter 0-2543, I don't know if it's what it came with. I'm thinking to put a kit in it, clean it up and see what happens. Or I could just check with NAPA and see what they can come up with?
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To me, the slant 6 valve cover is like a stellar pair of boobs. I don't like anything over it to hide it. Same for boobs.
Now, about the fuel filter location. Get ready possibly for some "experts" to tell you putting it before the pump is not correct. If said experts chime in, ignore them. Chrysler put fuel filters before the pump on many, many models, so they must notta thought much about it.
Now, about the fuel filter location. Get ready possibly for some "experts" to tell you putting it before the pump is not correct. If said experts chime in, ignore them. Chrysler put fuel filters before the pump on many, many models, so they must notta thought much about it.
If nobody has mentioned this, You should do a bulkhead bypass for the alternator charge wire, & put a voltmeter in instead of the ammeter. @crackedback has headlamp relay kits & I believe a kit for doing this, an upgrade across the board for that 70A unit is in order wire gauge wise.
That Dr. side mount biscuit was nowhere near as thick as an OE early-A, I'm sure the correct one along with Your rod tweak will give tons of shift clearance.
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