THank you!!! phew~ I was getting worried 
63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)
- Thread starter Dne007
- Start date
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You can use the 73 and up disc brakes on you car and you don't need the 73 nd up upper control arms. Dr Diff offers some tapered ball joint adapters that slip around the small early ball joints and adapts them to the later spindle. They will work for you just fine using the early A upper control arms if you want to retain those nice disc brakes. Here you bees.
www.doctordiff.com
Mopar A-Body Upper Ball Joint Tapered Adapter
Mopar A-Body Upper Ball Joint Tapered Adapter
www.doctordiff.com
Amazing!! you're incredible! 
You can use the 73 and up disc brakes on you car and you don't need the 73 nd up upper control arms. Dr Diff offers some tapered ball joint adapters that slip around the small early ball joints and adapts them to the later spindle. They will work for you just fine using the early A upper control arms if you want to retain those nice disc brakes. Here you bees.
Mopar A-Body Upper Ball Joint Tapered Adapter
Mopar A-Body Upper Ball Joint Tapered Adapter
Use the spreader jaws on a port-a-power.
I've never seen a broken small ball joint stud. You have a PM, too.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I had a similar issue in my 70. The aftermarket arms wouldn't slide in between the tabs. I grabbed a piece of all thread and outfitted two big washers and nuts and just kept turning the nuts against the washers and the tabs spread apart far enough to slide the uca just enough to hold th tabs and remove the all thread. Then just tap the uca in with a rubber mallet.
Hi guys, sorry I've been away, been under the weather with bronchitis or something for the past several day, however felt good enough this morning to finish the stuff in order to start the engine soon. I had bought a full exhaust from Ray, would be nice to have the entire exhaust on to make it a quiet run of the engine. meh, back to the sofa
Get yerself well!
^^^ It is the S E Texas weather!!!!
Actually, I got sick after we returned from Philly, probably the airport~ germs gallore!
Yankee airport germs!!!!!!
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Get well soon! Psssst....there's some Dutra Duals exhaust manifolds for sale in the parts department. 
[FOR SALE] - Dutra Dual Front Manifold with OE Modified Rear Section
[FOR SALE] - Dutra Dual Front Manifold with OE Modified Rear Section
joel d. snyder
Well-Known Member
HEY!
lol, all airports are hazardous to my health;)
Yeah, word on the street is they can kill hundreds of people in one fall.
I'm still fighting this chest congestion, but I got an exhaust system from Ray 
;) I just left it in the wrapper for now, too congested to play right now. On antibiotics and prednisone~ I need an immune system overhaul!
;) I just left it in the wrapper for now, too congested to play right now. On antibiotics and prednisone~ I need an immune system overhaul!
You get to feelin better, it's almost Christmas!I'm still fighting this chest congestion, but I got an exhaust system from Ray
View attachment 1716339247
Beer works for me!I'm still fighting this chest congestion, but I got an exhaust system from Ray
View attachment 1716339247
Hi, feeling better, not 100% but attempting a start on the s6. I have pump shot/gas, valves adjusted according to the cam sheet, but not getting spark~ I've tried different coils, tried another ballast resistor(one on order)~ I just don't know how to troubleshoot this system. Initially, it smoked/whiffed when I turned the key off, only a couple times. Test light on the +coil is hot, the (-) side is sometimes hot, most the time not. I'm checking fire by putting a spark plug wire near ground then turning it over to start, but nothing. Now I have this terrible headache! grrrr The module was from the Duster that it came out of. Let's start here;)
I'm worried to keep turning it over, I did put a lot of red lube on the bearings. and did pour a near quart of break in oil down over the rockers and down the lifter valley.
The ballast here is 1.5-8 ohms, the other side is 5.5ish
The yellow wire; I don't have a starter relay except on the starter.
I'm worried to keep turning it over, I did put a lot of red lube on the bearings. and did pour a near quart of break in oil down over the rockers and down the lifter valley.
The ballast here is 1.5-8 ohms, the other side is 5.5ish
The yellow wire; I don't have a starter relay except on the starter.
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Bet the fake (ecu) box is bad. Have another to swap in? Resistor ohms are right for cold.
I don't think the box is bad. I believe you're missing your "IGN2" circuit. That gives 12V when the starter is engaged. Run a wire from battery positive to coil positive and I bet it pops off.
Oh and why are you using a 4 pin ballast? Those are for the 5 pin ECU. Aren't you using a 4 pin ECU? I'd be using a 2 pin ballast.
Or just the .5 ohm side of it good point!
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