LOL, I thought you were asking if a "74" /6 had solid lifters. My mistake, and yes I was adjusting valve since before 1974.
63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)
- Thread starter Dne007
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Correct. I've been workin on cars since I was 9.
You certainly can do that. The slant 6 CAN even be primed, but it's kinda convoluted to do it. Before you install the timing chain, you can fill her with oil and put the bolt in the camshaft and spin it up with a 1/2" drill and cut off 3/8" extension with a 5/8" socket on the end. But we're a little late in the game for that.
I have one more question(haha), on my cam card, it says intake tappet to be .022 and exhaust to be .012. Is this correct~ if so I can at least adjust the valves today. I'm waiting for one part before starting the engine.
Sounds backwards to me. You need more gap on the exhaust side typically. Maybe double check with the cam grinder...
Thanks, I just wrote Ken at Oregon cams to verify the tappet gaps;)
It's a reverse grind cam, so those lash specs are probably correct.
D clean out your inbox.
I would still wait for Ken to verify. He'll get back to you.gee, keep learning something new every minute
Ken wrote:
"The spec sheet is correct, that is a reverse pattern cam for the S6. You should start at those spec’s but you can change them a little bit at a time to see how the engine responds if you like."
I'm good to go~
"The spec sheet is correct, that is a reverse pattern cam for the S6. You should start at those spec’s but you can change them a little bit at a time to see how the engine responds if you like."
I'm good to go~
This is correct, that grind was intended for more action on the intake than exhaust. Those lash numbers are what I show for the same cam.
Go gold well worth the 40 a year!my how the inbox fills up so quickly! Thank you;)
Hi fellow Moparians;) Hey, I just spoke with Ray (halifaxhops) earlier today regarding some parts, so nice to speak with fellow car enthusiasts
Got my new Tachometer for my engine run stand(ERS), the last one never worked, I just like things to work, you know;) The oil gauge is the mechanical with that tiny tube going to the oil pump. I have it to where the coolant temp can be mechanical or electric or both. Not sure if my electrical one will capeesh with the stock electrical sender.
I didn't get much done today, but the highlight was talking with Ray
Got my new Tachometer for my engine run stand(ERS), the last one never worked, I just like things to work, you know;) The oil gauge is the mechanical with that tiny tube going to the oil pump. I have it to where the coolant temp can be mechanical or electric or both. Not sure if my electrical one will capeesh with the stock electrical sender.
I didn't get much done today, but the highlight was talking with Ray
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Yeah, Ray is a good dood. When he's asleep. lol
Now that just ain't right...............
LOL I got it. He is one of the best in my book.
ok, I was playing with the K member. Ray, said the upper control arms/spindles won't work with my dart. I got the front spindles/uca's from the '76 Valiant. He was suggesting going with drum brakes which I have no problem with other than getting the entire setup somewhere. I don't need anything right now, it's just a concern;)
the '76 uca's just a tad wider than my 63 dart, plus the stock 63 ball joint stud is quite a bit smaller.
I didn't pull the parts, the guy working there did, this is where I got the rear axle of which wound up looking pretty good after a lot work.
so looks like I won't be using the '76 Valiant ucas/ and spindles
the '76 uca's just a tad wider than my 63 dart, plus the stock 63 ball joint stud is quite a bit smaller.
I didn't pull the parts, the guy working there did, this is where I got the rear axle of which wound up looking pretty good after a lot work.
so looks like I won't be using the '76 Valiant ucas/ and spindles
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mopowers
Well-Known Member
They'll work just fine. You just need the correct parts to work with them. The difference in width is probably just a minor difference in manufacturing tolerance or perhaps a collision or something. Plus, the bushing looks like it may need to be seated a little more.
So, how did I miss that! ok, I'll take a closer look tomorrow and see what gives. Thank you;)
mopowers
Well-Known Member
If it's still tight when you go to install it, you can always use a piece of all-thread and a couple nuts/washers to help persuade it.
it crossed my mind to try to spread the things apart, probably be difficult.
Nope, Couple hits with a mallet and a block of 2x4. Don't be bashful.
I used the same 74-76 A body disc brake components on both of my 63 Valiant and the 64 Dart.
The more you do the more you will see tolerances being + or - No two Mopars are exactly the same.
Yes the upper ball joint from the 63 has a smaller taper stud.
You must use the 76 Upper control arm and ball joint (Yes they do make adapter sleeves and yes they work)But you have the correct parts.
I used the same 74-76 A body disc brake components on both of my 63 Valiant and the 64 Dart.
The more you do the more you will see tolerances being + or - No two Mopars are exactly the same.
Yes the upper ball joint from the 63 has a smaller taper stud.
You must use the 76 Upper control arm and ball joint (Yes they do make adapter sleeves and yes they work)But you have the correct parts.
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