63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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The kids went home and I had just enough daylight to start the S6. It started ok, carb was out of adjustment and messed with me as it would quit running, but start right up. I noticed light blue smoke from the tailpipe, then as soon as oil pressure shot up, I uped the RPms and oil was coming from the rockers very well actually making a pretty good mess. I thought maybe the rockers were a little too quiet despite setting the rockers to the cam card specs. but I'll go with it. The engine shut off or I let it die, then a large gush came from the radiator, some went down the rocker area:( I was certain that maybe that wouldn't happen since I was running it without the thermostat~ I did have a squirrel cage fan blowing,. but the temp got up to only 140, I set the timing at 8 degrees before TDc with vacuum line disconnected. I'm a little disappointed, at least it's running and not making any crazy noises. I may drain about a quart of oil when cold to see if any water made its way into the engine from when it gushed.
I wanted to do more but Gary bugged me to call it an evening~~ so, I'll get back at it in the morning.
dne'

 
The water will usually settle to the bottom of the pan and come out first when you pull the plug. Draining a quart will probably get any that settled, out. Gonna be a mess though, so don't fumble the plug....lol. I thought it sounds pretty dang good. What kind of break in oil did you use? JGR Driven oil is green as a gord, and what I used at the dyno with my 273. Run it thru some heat cycles and the rings will seat after a while, then that light blue smoke at the tail pipe will go away. I'd put the real valve cover back on before next start. You have good oil flow, looks like. No need throwing more oil in the floor!

:thumbsup:
 
Help! the engine runs fine, however, I'm running into what happened earlier~ after heating up, water/coolant will gush out the radiator fill, over and over. Then I just kill the engine stand back and let it puke! The radiator being new flows well, and pouring water through flows well. I'm not running a thermostat right now. I just ordered a new water pump as this is the old one, but I don't suspect it. The block stays hot~ at 200 degrees, after the engine has been shut down, but radiator cools off quickly. I was worried that maybe there's a stoppage in the coolant passage or head gasket on incorrectly, but only goes on one way. I thought maybe an air pocket like most do, but I'd put the cap on and let it cool down, but the block where the mechanical pickup is stays hot for quite a while. but with the radiator out of the way, upper and lower hose, I can pour water through.
Thoughts??
but what is strange, the middle of the radiator is cool. I'm thinking to put the old leaky radiator back on to see if it does the same thing.

The heater spickets are just blocked off, do they need to be connected to recirculate?
water pump.jpg
 
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Stupid question have a overflow can? Some times it just has to expand and let the full become less full. Put a 180 thermostat in it/ Heater should not matter much
 
Ray and I spoke about my phenomenon or is it a dilemma? lol In the morning I'm going to install a 180 degree thermostat, but found I only have a 160 or 195, so I'll go with the 195 for now and drill a little hole suggested by Ray. Then put the timing more towards 4 degrees. hm For now I just put the old water pump back on as I feel there wasn't anything wrong with it.

Here's what I did do before talking to Ray. I thought perhaps the new radiator was messed up, so I put the old leaky radiator back on, (still no thermostat), filled it, ran it and coolant immediately was visible~ it ran great, then I filled it a tad more, then the puking began again. The temp at the radiator filler was 190 and the manual temp from the head was 200 or more. Again, filled it a tad more then the puking began(I think I said that).

I've had it for today, I'll start again morning.
 
Put the thermostat in it! No wonder it's puking! Why on earth didn't you put it in? Who gave that crappy advice? Without the thermostat, the water pump is pumping the water right out of the radiator. Put the thermostat IN, fill the radiator SLAM to the top with it cold, put the cap on and go!
 
No need to fill the radiator anywhere above the cores, that excess will always puke out.
Since the motor is out, that is always a good time to replace the water pump, cheap at Rock. But I always have bad luck with old radiators, water pumps, and distributors!!!!
 
barbee6043 said:
No need to fill the radiator anywhere above the cores, that excess will always puke out.
Since the motor is out, that is always a good time to replace the water pump, cheap at Rock. But I always have bad luck with old radiators, water pumps, and distributors!!!!
Click to expand...
No, not in this case it will not. She needs to fill it slam to the top because it's going to burp the air out. It's never done that yet, because it's been puking with no thermostat. It might blow a "little" out the overflow, but at this point I'd want it FULL so she will not have to remove the cap with it hot to fill the radiator after it warms up.
 
I would put an overflow hose on the radiator neck and route it safely away from "everything" like maybe put the end in a 5 gallon bucket as to not make a mess on the floor.
 
ooo, I take all responsibilty for not having installed a thermostat, my reasoning escapes me, but your advice sounds logical. ;)
 
Dne007 said:
ooo, I take all responsibilty for not having installed a thermostat, my reasoning escapes me, but your advice sounds logical. ;)
Click to expand...
With the thermostat in and the cooling system CLOSED like it should be, you may see the temp creep up to 190.....maybe even breach 200, but then when the thermostat opens, it will cool back down. And of course if for some reason it does not, just cut it off. That probably means it has air trapped behind the thermostat and make take a time or three of running it and letting it cool back down before it gets out.
 
mygasser said:
if you drill a small (1/8") hole on your 195 degree stat make sure it's at the highest point when you install it. that way air will bleed out of the hole into the top hose before the stat opens. you used to be able to get stats with 'jiggle' pin in a little hole for just that reason.
neil.
Click to expand...
Certainly an option!
 
I was thinking about my old running "drivers", I would look in the radiator and not see any coolant, and add till full and way above the core, and it always leaves via the overflow hose.
 
Moved everything to my AC/heated garage, but drained the system, obviously removed the waterpump/thermo~ waiting for parts. I can easily roll it outside when times comes to start it again, however we have some nasty weather coming.

coolant troublec.jpg


coolant troubleb.jpg


I have some neat wingnuts things coming for the valve cover.
coolant troublea.jpg


coolant trouble.jpg
 
D that has a new cam in it right? You need to add a zinc additive and next time it runs keep it going at least a half hour at say 2000 rpm to break in the cam if you have not done that already.
 
Good morning Ray, yes reground cam by Oregon cams. The machine shop which did the machine work gave me the break in oil and zinc additive;). Now if I can just get over the geyser coolant thing like we used talked about. I’ll run it like you said. Just waiting on water pump, not that I needed one. You know, hurry up and wait;) probably be Monday or Tuesday:(

We have a “winter storm “ supposed to hit us, so preparing for that;)
 
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