64 Dart

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I made a “floating” gas pedal for my ‘64 dart! I just grabbed a pedal off a junk ‘72 dart, cut off the last few inches of pedal rod, with the pedal attached, then cut the stock pedal rod and welded the two together.
Thank you so much! I think that’s what i’ll do!
 
Nice build.. my wife was seriously eyeballin a 64 at the swap meet a few years ago...
Look forward to seeing you tearing up the eighth Mile on Wednesday nights this next year...
I bring my car down to beaches a couple few times a summer. I've raced the 8th mile on Wednesday nights one time but I prefer to just go on Friday and Saturday nights and do quarter mile... For less money you get 10 times more passes..
But that's just me personally.. wait till you take it to Woodburn and get eight times the traction and you go half second faster!...
 
Did j bars,
Mocked up the roll cage,
Welded half of it,
Boxed out crossmember and the frame
Welded up holes in the firewall
Did a driveline loop
Made boxes for the roll cage mount in the front

Let me know if anybody has any advice, please! Never done anything like this in my life, so it’s a big learning process for me and most of the time i feel like need a little bit more knowledge in this!
Putting floors down still sound like a nightmare for me, but fun to learn!
Thank you!

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Dude, you're dominating! You may want to think about knocking off the surface rust on the roof before you weld in the cage. I'm fighting with that now on my 66 Dart. It's not horrible, but the cage is making it more of a pain.
 
Dude, you're dominating! You may want to think about knocking off the surface rust on the roof before you weld in the cage. I'm fighting with that now on my 66 Dart. It's not horrible, but the cage is making it more of a pain.
Thank you!!!
Would never think about it! Probably will do the roof tomorrow then!
 
that's surprised me, after all the work you've done it would be fairly simple at this stage to continue through into the car and tie it all together for proper strength.
neil.
Didn’t think about it! Never built a race car before, should i weld a tube from roll cage to the inside of the firewall behind the dashboard now? Or should i just leave it how it is now?
 
it would be stronger for sure, the front suspension loading will go through the cage not just the bodyshell. you've gone to the trouble of adding outriggers from the subframe connectors to the inner rockers for the cage to mount to so i think it would be worth linking the front bars to the main cage too. it's not much more work at this stage and eliminates any unwanted flex at the front.
neil.
 
Getting close to be done with rollcage, firewalls and floors next and K member.
Got wheels mocked up, wheels should be tucked more in, looking for a 45” 9 inch rear end now, probably will order one from strange tomorrow.

thinking about what i should do - ladder bars or caltracks

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Lookin great! Are you planning on installing rocker bars? I believe NHRA requires them in unibody cars with a modified floor (more than 6 sq ft for trans maintenance).
 
Lookin great! Are you planning on installing rocker bars? I believe NHRA requires them in unibody cars with a modified floor (more than 6 sq ft for trans maintenance).
Thank you so much for letting me know!!!
Is it something like that on photos? It says “below drivers legs” what is confusing me

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Thank you so much for letting me know!!!
Is it something like that on photos? It says “below drivers legs” what is confusing me

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Yep, those are rocker bars (or sill bars) in the photos. Looks like they're required in unibody cars with a modified floor. Not sure what they mean "modified floor." I'm sure there's quite a bit of gray area. In other words, if you install stock style floor pans over what you've currently got, I'd doubt NHRA tech would stop you. Who knows though. Just wanted to pointed it out so your're aware.
 
Little upgrade
Mark came by to help
Welded some kind of brackets for floors, cut the rocker bars, the will be welded in next week.
Got the K-member out, took all suspension apart, reinforced lower control arms, reinforced K-member,
Ordered tubular upper control arms and thinking about ordering shocks qa1 stocker star.

What would you suggest for front and rear shocks?

Also trying to figure out how i’ll fit the scattered shield, will probably have to cut more out of the firewall

Happy new year!

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jesus this is one gorgeous build... loving the fab work on the cage. Been thinking how to do the mounts around the front shock towers and was thinking of a design very similar. Sucks that they are so low in the bay.

Keep kickin butt

-Kiyoshi
 
Waiting on suspension parts from firm feels.

I ordered 408 from perfomance injection equipment, but it won’t be done on time, so i decided to put 5.9 magnum in it for now.

Paul came by in his Demon and is helping me with engine work, going to put a cam that i got from oregon cam grinding, valve springs, intake, carb, windage tray, passenger car oil pan and headers.

Also starting on floors.
Really hoping to get car done for the season, i guess will really start hunting for parts soon!

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Got that temperature Magnum all pretty and stronger. Got stronger springs from hughes and cam from oregon cam grinding, replaced cam bearings, put a carb with airgap intake, la timing cover, double roller timing chain and harmonica balanced

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Got the engine in today, what a ***** are the motor mounts! I didn’t have proper ones, i tried to modify all sets that i had, non of them were right, every time when i would get close oil pan will be resting on the k member, had to use thick biscuits on both sides.

Eventually i used the 67-72 i think mounts with a thick biscuits. It look all right, what do you guys think? Also before i bolted down the driver side biscuit it won’t sit flush! What made me everything questionable! Any advice on that?
I want to do engine plate next, so want to make sure engine is sitting right!


Also flex plate shield and transmission scattered shield totally were not fitting, had to modify fire wall and floor, and now I don’t have room for gas pedal, so i had to move brake pedal and modify gas pedal too, will finish it tomorrow!

welded in a lip for rear firewall
And worked a little on the relay panel and wiring

and the motor is in!

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Cool. Build. Man thats some awesome work for someone that don't know what their doing. :poke:
Keep at it buddy. You will be racing this spring!
 
re the motor mount you could just slip an angled shim in there to take up the gap. at least you wouldn't be stretching the rubber unevenly that way.
neil.
 
I think those 67-72 mounts are completely messing up the geometry of how the engine sits. The drivers side looks way too short compared to a factory 63-66 motor mount. The passenger side looks a little better. Here’s a reference:
'65 Valiant V8 motor mounts and brackets PICTURES needed!

If you intend to put a motor plate on it, I think I would bolt up the transmission in the factory position, remove the scatter shield for now, get the headers mounted, steering shaft and anything else that might have interference around the headers and then try positioning the motor where you want it, maybe using those mounts but remove the insulators for now and just add shims to each side until you are level and located properly in the left-to-right orientation, which is typically offset a little toward the passenger side if I recall.
 
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