65 Barracuda w/500ci RB, Stage VI Max Wedge Port Heads, 6-speed, and 5.38 Dana

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Subscribed and I know all about motorcycle accidents been in 3 to many my back is still jacked up from the last one. But get some rest and relax the car will be there when your ready.
im just starting to comply parts for my boosted low deck motor going in the toad. I havent started any posting yet I will once I start the mock up process.
Get well soon and happy holidays
Aaron
 
Well, I finally finished fabbing and welding in the gussets onto the passenger side brackets today. I put one on the ladder bar bracket and the shock bracket as I plan to drill a hole in the ladder bar bracket and run a bolt from the shock brackets with a spacer between the inboard shock bracket and the ladder bar bracket. It's probably overkill, but I figured better safe than sorry since the passenger side ladder bar bracket will get all of the side load from the diagonal link. The ladder bar bracket gusset may require a little bit more grinding to clear the shock, but not much.

Since it has been so long since I worked on it, I want to stay motivated so I'm going to pick an easy task next. After I get the rear axle back underneath it, I plan to jump on the rear tubs next before I attempt the crossmember cut out and fabrication for installing the T56. I may even weld the cage in before I work on the crossmember. Can you tell I'm not looking forward to that crossmember cut out and fabrication?

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Well, before I weld everything closed, I figured I'd take and post some quick pics of old work that I never posted. Here are some pics of the homemade subframe connectors, ladderbar crossmember, and shock crosssmember installed.

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I had to cut the floor for accessing the welds for the coilover shock crossmember so here is a pic of that area plus the frame rails prior to welding in the previously cut out tubs. I copied somebody else's idea on here for the frame rails. Instead of cutting the outside lip area off, where the factory spot welded it every couple inches, I made cuts in between each weld and bent the outside lip of the frame up so that it's flat on that edge, but still maintains the spot welds. Thank you to whomever's idea I copied. After I get the car done I'll have to look back through all of my subscriptions to give credit to whomever it was.

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Not sure how I missed this thread - subscribed. I gave up motorcycles back in 86 when I was in and out of Walter Reed and Bethsda Naval Hospital after being paralyzed on one side from the chest down due to a disc imploding against the spinal column.
 
Floor access for coilover shock crossmember welded back down. I can't believe how much easier it is to weld with smaller wire and less heat. It only blew through a few times compared to usual.

Tubs are next.

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Not sure how I missed this thread - subscribed. I gave up motorcycles back in 86 when I was in and out of Walter Reed and Bethsda Naval Hospital after being paralyzed on one side from the chest down due to a disc imploding against the spinal column.

Sounds nasty. I hope you're doing much better now. Thank you for your service by the way.

I feel very blessed to still be able to work on stuff. I didn't get full use of my left shoulder, but that's my own fault for not continuing my exercises after I was released from therapy. The only time I notice any issues is when I attempt to get something heavy off a shelf way above my head or when I attempt to do an oil change and reach for the drain plug, but can't quite reach it.
 
What intake rockers are you going to use? The mp ones are no longer in stock. I really want ductile iron ones so I can build a bullet proof vavletrain but the max wedge ports require more offset than a stock rocker has.

Sorry, I didn't notice your long ago post until today.

I bought a set of the Crane golds from Mancini a long time ago that are supposedly offset for use with the Stage VI heads. I'll hopefully be finding out this spring whether that was a good purchase or not. I unfortunately bought them back when Crane had quality assurance issues and ended up with a set with adjusters that are not hardened.
 
Subscribed and I know all about motorcycle accidents been in 3 to many my back is still jacked up from the last one. But get some rest and relax the car will be there when your ready.
im just starting to comply parts for my boosted low deck motor going in the toad. I havent started any posting yet I will once I start the mock up process.
Get well soon and happy holidays
Aaron

Aaron,

Sorry I missed your post until today. I hope your back is doing better.

I've looked at your build a few times; very impressive.
 
Here is everything almost fully prepped, at least the passenger side is, mocked up and also the pieces I cut off the inside of the tubs. I was going to try to cut them and reuse them to fill the open areas at the front and rear, but they aren't flat so it would have been difficult to work with them so I tossed them to the side. In the last couple pictures, you can see how I cut notches from the original body plug access holes and the 2" holes I drilled with my new hole saw 15-piece Bi-metal Hole Saw Kit for accessing the body plugs after the tubs are moved in.

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Here are a few pics of the passenger side minitub in progress. My wife helped me make some templates out of thick paper; she laid on the garage floor and held them up to the open spots while I climbed in the car and marked them from above. After that, I cut them out, traced them onto a piece of the sheet of steel I have, cut them out and bent them to match the contour of the floor, tacked them onto the tubs, and then pulled the tubs to fully weld them on. You can see in the last two photos where they are welded onto the tubs and ready to be welded to the frame rails.

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I repeated the steps of welding the wedges onto the driver side and then I welded both tubs in.

I made templates for the opening between tubs and the area they were cut from. I made them by cutting them approximately 1/2" wider than they needed to be, then taped the inside edge on top of the tub and the outside edge inside of the fender. Then I traced the inside edge from underneath the car and the outside edge from inside the car. I then cut my tracings out with scissors.

I taped them to a 16 gauge sheet of steel and traced them out. I'll be cutting them out with my scroll saw. I'm going to try to tack them in and weld them in as one piece on each side by rotating my welding points as it cools. I'll try to get them welded in later this week.

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I know; it's been a month since the last post. Laziness gets me sometimes.

Passenger side tacked in. I'm going to switch back to the driver side instead of welding this one all the way in.

I'm going to remake the template for the driver side. I creased the paper while making it and then took the crease out when I traced it onto the metal.

First pic is from under car looking forward. Second pic is from under car looking rearward. Last is from inside car looking rearward.

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Only took one pic from a couple days ago. Both sides fully welded in now.

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Ground down some of the tack welds on the outside to prep for primer, paint, and seam sealer tomorrow. I'll post more photos tomorrow after everything is painted.
 
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Primed and painted inside, primed on the outside. I still need to put the seam sealer on from outside.

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Great job Brad.. seal those puppies up to keep all that future tire smoke out of cockpit. .:thumbsup:
 
Great job Brad.. seal those puppies up to keep all that future tire smoke out of cockpit. .:thumbsup:

Thanks.

It's all sealed up now; rear axle, ladder bars, shocks, and rims/tires are all reinstalled. I now have 1.5" of room on each side of each tire with my 28 X 10.5 X 15 slicks. Once I get it on the road I'll start looking for some wider tires and possibly wider rims since my current street tires are 305 X 50 X 15.

Fortunately, all of those ugly looking welds will be covered up by carpet once I ever get to that point. I never claimed to be a good welder, I'm just hoping i burned in everything good enough to stay together.
 
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Thanks.

It's all sealed up now; rear axle, ladder bars, shocks, and rims/tires are all reinstalled. I now have 1.5" of room on each side of each tire with my 28 X 10.5 X 15 slicks. Once I get it on the road I'll start looking for some wider tires and possibly wider rims since my current street tires are 305 X 50 X 15.

Fortunately, all of those ugly looking welds will be covered up by carpet once I ever get to that point. I never claimed to be a good welder, I'm just hoping i burned in everything good enough to stay together.
you might try stitch welding if ur using a mig, it`s slower but looks way better for an amateur -- not calling u an amateur tho .
 
you might try stitch welding if ur using a mig, it`s slower but looks way better for an amateur -- not calling u an amateur tho .

Thanks for the tip Bob; I'll have to try that. No offense taken; I know I'm an amateur. I don't do it often enough to be good at it.
 
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