65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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well we all, we all make mistakes lol!
Yeah yours looks pro just a change in direction hahaha mine it's ok it's pretty bad interlock not connected locks keys in column after you drive it's a feature...wonder if they option that
 
I am nearly ready to start the engine assembly. Even though the block is fresh from the machine shop and clean, i still thoroughly cleaned the exterior of the block, dried it and painted it red to match the oil pan, timing chain cover and several small parts that Leanna powdercoated for me a long time ago! I’ll bag it until i get the crank back from the machine shop. The crank is the original 66 4 speed forged unit. Machine shop guy is going to open the crank pocket up to accept the A500’s torque converter.

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I cleaned and painted the Holley Street Dominator intake manifold, i went ahead and installed a NOS 5/8ths heater hose fitting, the Sniper temperature sending unit, the Dakota Digital temperature sending unit, the vacuum tee and 4 carb studs.

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The NOS water pump got the cleaning treatment and a coat of red paint. it has an 8 blade impeller - does that mean Heavy Duty or maybe for AC? I also installed a NOS 5/8 heater hose fitting, a 1 inch 70/up bypass hose fitting to match the one on the intake manifold and another plug.

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Both heads have been rebuilt with new valves, hardened exhaust valve seats and guides as needed. It was also cleaned and painted red (just one head pictured)

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I will also paint all the mounting bolts separately and I might give the complete assembled engine a once over of paint depending on what it looks like after assembly.
 
I am nearly ready to start the engine assembly. Even though the block is fresh from the machine shop and clean, i still thoroughly cleaned the exterior of the block, dried it and painted it red to match the oil pan, timing chain cover and several small parts that Leanna powdercoated for me a long time ago! I’ll bag it until i get the crank back from the machine shop. The crank is the original 66 4 speed forged unit. Machine shop guy is going to open the crank pocket up to accept the A500’s torque converter.

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I cleaned and painted the Holley Street Dominator intake manifold, i went ahead and installed a NOS 5/8ths heater hose fitting, the Sniper temperature sending unit, the Dakota Digital temperature sending unit, the vacuum tee and 4 carb studs.

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The NOS water pump got the cleaning treatment and a coat of red paint. it has an 8 blade impeller - does that mean Heavy Duty or maybe for AC? I also installed a NOS 5/8 heater hose fitting, a 1 inch 70/up bypass hose fitting to match the one on the intake manifold and another plug.

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Both heads have been rebuilt with new valves, hardened exhaust valve seats and guides as needed. It was also cleaned and painted red (just one head pictured)

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I will also paint all the mounting bolts separately and I might give the complete assembled engine a once over of paint depending on what it looks like after assembly.
Great work Don!
 
Working on a little project today - installing the distributor HEI adapter. I bought this adapter from the website designed2drive.com. As the website explains, this adapter (the yellow dichromate part) installs under the vacuum canister and the 4 terminal HEI mounts to the adapter. It only installs one way so The installation was pretty straightforward. I used an old plug I had along with the provided terminals and heat shrink to install the plugs on the HEI module to the electronic distributor. The other 2 HEI terminals go to the positive and negative of the coil, eliminating the ballast resistor.

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Working on a little project today - installing the distributor HEI adapter. I bought this adapter from the website designed2drive.com. As the website explains, this adapter (the yellow dichromate part) installs under the vacuum canister and the 4 terminal HEI mounts to the adapter. It only installs one way so The installation was pretty straightforward. I used an old plug I had along with the provided terminals and heat shrink to install the plugs on the HEI module to the electronic distributor. The other 2 HEI terminals go to the positive and negative of the coil, eliminating the ballast resistor.

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Great work! Nobody will ever know it's even there.
 
Since I’m trying to keep the engine compartment looking reasonably close to stock, the plan is to keep the ballast resistor but remove the resistor and replace it with a just a wire. After removing the mounting bracket from the case (which I will send out to be refinished in the original yellow dichromate), i cut the resistor from the terminals, got them removed and wire brushed cleaned. I soldered a 12 gauge wire to each terminal and reinstalled to the housing. Once I get the clamp back, I can install the new and improved (for my use) to the upper firewall and it will still look stock!

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Since I’m trying to keep the engine compartment looking reasonably close to stock, the plan is to keep the ballast resistor but remove the resistor and replace it with a just a wire. After removing the mounting bracket from the case (which I will send out to be refinished in the original yellow dichromate), i cut the resistor from the terminals, got them removed and wire brushed cleaned. I soldered a 12 gauge wire to each terminal and reinstalled to the housing. Once I get the clamp back, I can install the new and improved (for my use) to the upper firewall and it will still look stock!

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Your the man Don! You figure out new solution in way no other can keep up with. Hats off!
 
Don. Just "regular" GENIUS stuff you keep sharing with us all. So many great ideas. Thanks for sharing. Sgrip65
 
So, will that adapter add heat to the distributor? Is it necessary for the HEI system?

IDK about adding heat to the system. When I ordered it, I was curious about that as well. In corresponding with the guy, he said he has not had any reports about that with the many units that he’s sold. We shall see

Is it necessary to use that adapter for the HEI? Of course not; the HEI could be installed just about anywhere with a suitable heat sink and wiring. I liked this setup with it’s proximity to the dizzy harness and being so close to the factory coil location wiring-wise. I’m using the Blaster III coil on the stock re-finished coil bracket.

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Another project completed today - the radiator. At least 20-25 years ago I had the radiator shop replace the 2 core (which was pretty bad) with a 3 core. It was time to dig it out and use it in my Dart wagon conversion. It’s just the core and top and bottom tanks as I didn’t have any 65/66 side panels correct for the fan shroud

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I couldn’t remember from where or what The radiator came from. I found a website that listed radiator by number, year and application. According to the information this 22 inch radiator came from a 67 Barracuda. As I’m not particularly a matching numbers guy, this radiator will work just fine.

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As I now have the correct side panels for the early A fan shroud, time to clean them up and solder them to the core.

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Then a coat of high temp black paint top to bottom side to side

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Because my A500 transmission uses 3/8th lines rather than 5/16ths, i ordered the 1/8NPT male and 3/8th male flair for the cooler lines and installed them.

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Per the FSM the 65 used a 16PSI radiator cap. A new one from Rock Auto takes care of that

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I pulled from storage my previously powdercoated fan shroud brackets with captive fastens that install in the side brackets

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And my hard-to-find 65/66 fan shroud. I need to clean it up and repaint it. I won’t install it until after the motor, fan and radiator is installed. It being a 2 piece shroud will make it easy (easier) to install!

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Don, All around great stuff. I think we all are learning from each post, and thanks for keeping us interested!! Sgrip65
 
Another project completed today - the radiator. At least 20-25 years ago I had the radiator shop replace the 2 core (which pretty bad) with a 3 core. It was time to dig it out and use it in my Dart wagon conversion. It’s just the core and top and bottom tanks as I didn’t have any 65/66 side panels correct for the fan shroud

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I couldn’t remember from where or what The radiator came from. I found a website that listed radiator by number, year and application. According to the information this 22 inch radiator came from a 67 Barracuda. As I’m not particularly a matching numbers guy, this radiator will work just fine.

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As I now have the correct side panels for the early A fan shroud, time to clean them up and solder them to the core.

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Then a coat of high temp black paint top to bottom side to side

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Because my A500 transmission uses 3/8th lines rather than 5/16ths, i ordered the 1/8NPT male and 3/8th male flair for the cooler lines and installed them.

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Per the FSM the 65 used a 16PSI radiator cap. A new one from Rock Auto takes care of that

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I pulled from storage my previously powdercoated fan shroud brackets with captive fastens that install in the side brackets

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And my hard-to-find 65/66 fan shroud. I need to clean it up and repaint it. I won’t install it until after the motor, fan and radiator is installed. It being a 2 piece shroud will make it easy (easier) to install!

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Great work Don!
 
Back in 2015 I ordered a modular fuse and relay setup from Vehicle Wiring Products - a company in the UK - I had bought a 6 position Maxi-fuse module to protect the relays and 4 other circuits and a 2 position relay panel. Back in 2015 i figured that would be sufficient.

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It’s 2022 and plans changed as I need a relay and fuse for my Holley in-tank fuel pump ( it’s extra cost stuff that i gotta provide!). I decided I didn’t want to an extra relay/fuses mounted elsewhere in the engine compartment so i decided to order another relay panel, mini-fuse panel and a 4 module base and cover. I will use The 2 modules I already had to make a 4 module setup. This will give me the 2nd relay panel for the fuel pump relay plus a spare relay base just in case and a fuse panel for the relays and the PATC OD, lockup snd vacuum controller for the 42Rh

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I have the headlight relay bases mostly wired in and still need to add the wiring from the headlight switch and the wiring to the headlights. Ditto for the wire from the fuel pump and From the sniper harness; I won’t do that until I install the engine/sniper so to know how much of the Sniper wiring I need

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I sent out to get some more things to get cad and black phosphate plated and several things to get gold dichromate. The later included the 2 little nuts that secure the evaporator tube bracket to the firewall and the bracket for the ballast resistor. Got the ballast resistor and bracket mated and mounted to the firewall waiting for me to complete the wiring. Yes, an early A with factory AC has the ballast resistor installed above the firewall to lower cowl pinch weld

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Don. Your project will be just plain perfect!! Very nice. Sgrip65
 
After buying the 2 module fuse and relay panels, i was discussing with Ulf @65dartcharger where to try and hide it. He suggested possibly under the battery tray. It would easily fit under there between the braces.

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Now that i have expanded from 2 to 4 modules, it will no longer fit between the braces and likely extend into the compartment and probably want to share real estate with the PS pump.

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The problem is the shape of the OEM braces

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i was looking at the “L” shape braces holding up the plant shelf in the living room, which would certainly work and still be a functional tray brace. So after slicing and dicing and welding the OEM braces, i had a pair of L brackets which installed in the same position as the original brackets - just shaped differently. I still need to finish some work on them but they will work and let the new module sit well back under the trace. A little etch primer to protect them
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After welding some nuts to the back side of a HD “L” bracket to mount the module’s frame, I welded it to the top of the frame rail in between the tray’s braces, a couple of coats of etch primer and a couple coats of body color white, it’s ready for the module

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you can see in the last picture the brace is up against the inner fender so the module will tuck in under the battery tray quite nicely
 
Great progress Don! I really like the sneaky ballast job!
 
I will be out of commission for awhile; i had a hip replacement on Thursday and with help from my youngest son, his nurse GF, i was finally able to get to the kitchen table.
 
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