65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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Well even though I can do no actual work, much less go downstairs, I can still do some research and actually buy some stuff I will need. Case in point, I wanted genuine Bosch relays rather than the 2 no name ones I had for the headlights. With my wife acting as my legs, i sent her downstairs exactly where I had 1 genuine Bosch relay, Which she found no problem. So I ordered 4 of them for all four relay holders; they should be here between January 25-31.

I have a pair of NOS 73-76 A Body calipers, hardware and pads. I also have 3 used rotors that appear to be in decent shape with some surface rust as an added bonus. I decided why try and reuse them, so i ordered from Rock Auto 2 new rotors. I will soure new bearings and seals later. Online shopping is so easy!
 
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Well even though I can do no actual work, much less go downstairs, I can still do some research and actually buy some stuff I will need. Case in point, I wanted genuine Bosch relays rather than the 2 no name ones I had for the headlights. With my wife acting as my legs, i sent her downstairs exactly where I had 1 genuine Bosch relay, Which she found no problem. So I ordered 4 of them for all four relay holders; they should be here between January 25-31.

I have a pair of NOS 73-76 A Body calipers, hardware and pads. I also have 3 used rotors that appear to be in decent shape with some surface rust as an added bonus. I decided why try and reuse them, so i ordered from Rock Auto 2 nee rotors. I will soure new bearings and seals later. Online shopping is so easy!

Hang in there Don.

Hah... yeah, sometimes online shopping is TOO easy. :rolleyes:
 
Well even though I can do no actual work, much less go downstairs, I can still do some research and actually buy some stuff I will need. Case in point, I wanted genuine Bosch relays rather than the 2 no name ones I had for the headlights. With my wife acting as my legs, i sent her downstairs exactly where I had 1 genuine Bosch relay, Which she found no problem. So I ordered 4 of them for all four relay holders; they should be here between January 25-31.

I have a pair of NOS 73-76 A Body calipers, hardware and pads. I also have 3 used rotors that appear to be in decent shape with some surface rust as an added bonus. I decided why try and reuse them, so i ordered from Rock Auto 2 nee rotors. I will soure new bearings and seals later. Online shopping is so easy!

Hang in there Don. You'll be up and after it again in no time!! sgrip65
 
Get well soon Don. Be sure and take your pain meds before you go to rehab appointments. Everyone I know that has had parts replaced say it works better to have it in your system before you start pushing yourself at rehab.
 
Rehab is going to be at home. The damn joint doesn’t bother me - it’s all the muscles lol!
 
Yeah....I'd say they have to open up a pretty good size spot to get the sawzall in there and have room to line up the shop press to press the new joints and bushings in! :eek: Hang in there.
 
Get well soon Don. Be sure and take your pain meds before you go to rehab appointments. Everyone I know that has had parts replaced say it works better to have it in your system before you start pushing yourself at rehab.

JD. FUNNY that Don should take his pain medication before Rehab. After my landscaping wreck a bit over a year ago, I was in a Trauma One Center in Minneapolis. Towards the end of a two week stay, they gave me the pain meds as they usually did, then they sent me to rehab. My balance, they said at rehab "was off." They said I needed to stay a bit longer due to my balance being off. Go figure that one out. Sgrip65
 
I have graduated to out-patient PT which is going quite well. I have been downstairs looking over everything including where i left off on some wiring in the engine compartment. If I’m to do any work, i think I’ll have to use the propane heater on top of a tank as not much heat migrates to that part of the garage from the wood stove in the other part of the room through the doorway.
 
Hello Don. Like it has been said....Can't keep a GOOD man down!! Yes, PT. Been there done that with my fall off the hillside. I am certain that all of our members are wishing, for you, an excellent and speedy recovery. The Very Best to you. sgrip65
 
Prior to my surgery I constructed and routed most of my headlight, turn signal, parking light and horn wiring. I am using US-made copper stranded wiring with a vinyl outer covering, no Chinese-made wiring please. I still need to connect the headlight wiring from the switch to the relays and the output wiring from the relays. All this wiring still needs connectors for the bulkhead connectors and eventually wrapped in the non-sticky harness tape.

So I have been downstairs the last 2 days for a couple if hours each day working on the engine compartment wiring. I am trying to use the 65 factory color codes and wire gauge where as possible on most of the wiring, upgrading sizes where needed. As I am adding HEI and a modified ballast resistor, i need to make adjustments to the wiring to tie it all in to my dash harness.

I have made and routed my alternator output wiring to the maxi-fuse and relay panel (not yet installed) and the alternator field output to the voltage regulator. I find each wire time consuming measuring, crimping and soldering terminals. I started on the other wire from the voltage regulator to the dummy ballast resistor. Since my power wire from the ignition switch to the bulkhead connector is 14 gauge, that’s what I’ll use from the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor and not the 16 gauge per original 65. That’s as far as I got - custom wiring is slow going indeed!

EDIT: i did go back downstairs after dinner to finish a couple of wires I started - the hot post on the starter relay to the hot terminal on the horn relay and the wire from the horns to the connector on the horn relay. I need to run the ground wire from the horn button (already within the dash harness) and that will be done.
 
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Hi Don. It is good to hear you are getting after it considering your recent surgery. Sounds like a steady progress on the Conversion. sgrip65
 
I probably should have done a better job of routing all these wires in the back of the fuse and relay panel, but it’s done! I have an extra relay module so I should run wires from 86 & 87 terminals and cap them off should i need the relay for something else. The 3 that will be in use are for the headlights and in-tank fuel pump

0CCD0D0C-D00D-4667-9CAB-D3E799BF5868.jpeg


i still need to add terminals for the engine compartment side of the bulkhead connectors

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Don. Looks a great deal better than mine!! Nice work. sgrip65
 
Don. Looks a great deal better than mine!! Nice work. sgrip65

are you talking about my fuse & relay center or the other wiring? With the wiring to the bulkhead connectors I can do it the most convenient route and not to fit multiple vehicles or different engines.
 
As some of you know I will be using a Dakota A500/42RH behind my 273. I will not be using a computer to control the OD and LU functions but using the PATC pressure switch conversion instead. This kit consists of an adjustable vacuum/electric switch

2213F12A-F78C-4117-A1AA-98E675EB7169.jpeg


And 2 non adjustable pressure switches which are pre-set to 44 for OD and 52 for LU. There are user adjustable pressure switches available for extra cost of course

4B5AA35C-00B4-442E-A956-914227EEC4A6.jpeg


The end user must provide the fitting(s) to install the pressure fittings and do the wiring to all the components

404C5AC6-594B-446D-8AE5-3F7D98C76D4F.jpeg


The guy I bought ny transmissions from over at slant6.org mounted his directly to the #4 port on the transmission as suggested at PATC. I found a thread here on FABO where a member ran a line from the #4 hydraulic port to the engine compartment where he located his pressure switch assembly. I liked that idea should I ever decide to replace the non-adjustable OD and/or LU switches with adjustable switches.

9457190F-26DB-4BBC-992F-AC42271264F6.jpeg


I finally decided on an unobtrusive location for the vacuum switch. After constructing a suitable bracket to mount the vacuum switch

772A66F1-DE50-4915-9D88-A95DD12C7522.jpeg


It got primed, painted black and the vacuum switch installed. i used the right mounting bolt on the starter relay to install it. It’s semi-hidden but still accessible if I ever need to replace it or adjust the vacuum setting

DF8F5BF2-A420-420C-A80B-B0604E8E305D.jpeg


For the pressure switch assembly i made a bracket

7AAEA0E8-B332-4A91-AA30-25413FE70A87.jpeg


Then epoxied it to the fitting. After it was dry, I then marked the passenger inner fender for the bracket, drilled the mounting holes, installed nut serts and installed the assembly. It also in an unobtrusive location under the blower motor yet easily accessible if needed.

02E066F1-5299-4E75-BCDF-E884D39F59C2.jpeg


I cannot run the line from the transmission pressure oort to the fitting or run the wiring until the transmission is installed. It looks like a small job but was time consuming working a couple of hours a day over several days!

F9072EF7-DAA3-4637-8EC4-16BFEE838CF7.jpeg
 
As some of you know I will be using a Dakota A500/42RH behind my 273. I will not be using a computer to control the OD and LU functions but using the PATC pressure switch conversion instead. This kit consists of an adjustable vacuum/electric switch

View attachment 1715921690

And 2 non adjustable pressure switches which are pre-set to 44 for OD and 52 for LU. There are user adjustable pressure switches available for extra cost of course

View attachment 1715921683

The end user must provide the fitting(s) to install the pressure fittings and do the wiring to all the components

View attachment 1715921692

The guy I bought ny transmissions from over at slant6.org mounted his directly to the #4 port on the transmission as suggested at PATC. I found a thread here on FABO where a member ran a line from the #4 hydraulic port to the engine compartment where he located his pressure switch assembly. I liked that idea should I ever decide to replace the non-adjustable OD and/or LU switches with adjustable switches.

View attachment 1715921682

I finally decided on an unobtrusive location for the vacuum switch. After constructing a suitable bracket to mount the vacuum switch

View attachment 1715921684

It got primed, painted black and the vacuum switch installed. i used the right mounting bolt on the starter relay to install it. It’s semi-hidden but still accessible if I ever need to replace it or adjust the vacuum setting

View attachment 1715921695

For the pressure switch assembly i made a bracket

View attachment 1715921714

Then epoxied it to the fitting. After it was dry, I then marked the passenger inner fender for the bracket, drilled the mounting holes, installed nut serts and installed the assembly. It also in an unobtrusive location under the blower motor yet easily accessible if needed.

View attachment 1715921918

I cannot run the line from the transmission pressure oort to the fitting or run the wiring until the transmission is installed. It looks like a small job but was time consuming working a couple of hours a day over several days!

View attachment 1715921681
Your the real deal Don, a magican! There is only new oppertunities, no problems!
 
Today i took my blasted and painted upper control arms and pressed in my Moog offset bushings I’ve had for at least 10 years now. Good chance they are genuine Moogs and not Chinese repops. Finished up the control arms with more genuine Moog large ball joints. I will finish torquing them to specs after I install the control arms to the car.

E64841F0-4581-4E6C-9E04-1E984284C451.jpeg


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Very Nice Don. Have you kept a ledger of your time in this car? I did not on either of mine. Labor of love....or so it's been said. Sgrip65
 
Very Nice Don. Have you kept a ledger of your time in this car? I did not on either of mine. Labor of love....or so it's been said. Sgrip65

Jerry, i can safely say i likely have more time ;and money) invested in the wagon than I care to think about!If I had left it stock, it would have been finished-a long time ago. But that would have been no fun since I had a vision of what i wanted from the very beginning!
 
Interestin setup with the transmission!

AS I understand it, the vacuum/electrical switch controls when the OD and LU kick in (or off) in conjunction with the pressure switches. There’s a detailed account of how it works at the PATC website. If it works as advertised i’ll be happy
 
AS I understand it, the vacuum/electrical switch controls when the OD and LU kick in (or off) in conjunction with the pressure switches. There’s a detailed account of how it works at the PATC website. If it works as advertised i’ll be happy
I am willin to bet a dollar it works well!
 
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