For the bumper brackets, I'd be fine with black. Upper and lower control arms, I've been considering yellow. I don't want the car to look like a Christmas tree, though, so maybe body color (blue).
66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I vote for gloss black, but on suspension parts, thats how i roll
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Hurray beer !!!
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I agree that the choice shouldn't be too outlandish unless the finished look of the car is going to be wild. Black is never a bad choice but choosing other colors for parts like these seems to bring out the details and make components stand out.
Well, maybe these parts aren't exactly sophisticated enough to make them stand out ...
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I think most people paint under carriage stuff black since that what the factory typically does, plus its easier to just buy some rattle cans of paint and spray bomb them. They are not easily seen, and typically get dirty anyways. The paint is only there to protect the steel and slow down the rusting process.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Those parts you've gotten ready primered already look great to me. They should look gorgeous with a final finish. I don't think it's just the 'sophisticated' aftermarket suspension pieces that benefit from detailing.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I have been following his thread too. I think those parts were powdercoated. Btw not sure if you are or not, but if your replacing the upper ball joints, id recommend a few tack welds from the edge of the joint to the control arm after you thread new ones in, to keep em from popping out. This seems to be a problem with older upper A arms that may have had multiple joints replaced, and even with new aftermarket A arms. 2 to 4 tacks per joint seems to do the trick.
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Well, yesterday I learned something. The inner sleeve in the LCA bushings are re-used when you install poly bushings. So they don't need to come off the shaft.
Bummer. I can't seem to find new ones anywhere and the old ones are a no-go since I removed them by expanding the diameter of them. Crap.
Oh, well. I guess I'll get new rubber ones from Rock Auto and press out the inner sleeves. I think they're only $3.50 or so.
Bummer. I can't seem to find new ones anywhere and the old ones are a no-go since I removed them by expanding the diameter of them. Crap.
Oh, well. I guess I'll get new rubber ones from Rock Auto and press out the inner sleeves. I think they're only $3.50 or so.
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OOPS!
Yup. I'll try to find them over here since I want to get this done soon.
A bushing or sleave from a hardware store?
Maybe a piece of thin wall pipe? Not much on them pressure wise just to keep the bushing from wearing.
Kind of odd dimensions. I was thinking about haveing them made but buying new rubber bushings is probably a lot cheaper.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yup. Best way i have found with removing the rubber from these is to heat it up with a torch, and push it out. When the metal gets hot enough it will release the rubber thats vulcanized to it. It takes awhile to get it all sufficiently hot, but when it does everything seperates quickly, and without damage to the metal parts. Only issue is the smell of burning rubber, and the black gooey mess from melting it. I use a disposable aluminum roast pan ya get at the supermarket for burning bushings apart, then pitch it in the trash. Keeps all the gooey rubber pieces from getting stuck to your shoes and leaving black dots all over the house.
Interestingly i bought my LCA bushing kit from firm feel. It came with greasable LCA pins. These were machined to the outer diameter dimension of the sleeve thus eliminating it.
Interestingly i bought my LCA bushing kit from firm feel. It came with greasable LCA pins. These were machined to the outer diameter dimension of the sleeve thus eliminating it.
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Yeah, I've seen those custom LCA pins. I didn't get those with the kit, figured I had no reason to. That's what you get for poor research.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
When i first got them i figured id have to reuse my sleeves, and thought, how the hell do i get the sleeves off, then i grabbed a caliper out of my tool box and went hmmm, dont need to these eliminate them.
Hey brother its ok we live, and we learn. Just think, you may come across another guy out by you wanting to rebuild an old mopar or some other old american car, and they will be coming to you for advice. By then you will have been there, done that so to speak.
Where i work, people are always asking me car questions. Been there, done that. LOL.
I have some spare LCA pins that i think still have inner sleeves on them. They are for 67-76. Not sure if these are the same as a 64-66. I will have to go out by my friends place in the country as he is storing my 69 notchback parts car for me.
If these ones i have will work for your application, and if the sleeves are still on them, i can send em to Don for you, and he can put them in a care package among other things you may need. I just need to head out there after work and check. Just let me know if these will work for a 66, and if your interested in them.
Matt
Hey brother its ok we live, and we learn. Just think, you may come across another guy out by you wanting to rebuild an old mopar or some other old american car, and they will be coming to you for advice. By then you will have been there, done that so to speak.
Where i work, people are always asking me car questions. Been there, done that. LOL.
I have some spare LCA pins that i think still have inner sleeves on them. They are for 67-76. Not sure if these are the same as a 64-66. I will have to go out by my friends place in the country as he is storing my 69 notchback parts car for me.
If these ones i have will work for your application, and if the sleeves are still on them, i can send em to Don for you, and he can put them in a care package among other things you may need. I just need to head out there after work and check. Just let me know if these will work for a 66, and if your interested in them.
Matt
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Pins are the same. Some early ones had a hole at the end of the pin for a cotter pin. My 65's are like that
That's fine!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Just checked my parts car. No bueno. I removed the sleeves from the pins on my spare arms.
It turns out I can get a set of '73 and up LCA:s for free from the guy who got my LD4B. It's got the sway bar brackets. I know they're different from my original ones but I'll make it work.
And I just ordered a pair of LCA bushings from Rock Auto. They'll go in a package with a brake booster/master cylinder assembly I gout for $35 in an auction a few weeks back. krazykuda is helping me with the shipping on that.
I'm also getting some clips that are missing. The clips that hold the heater box together. I only have three of the eleven that are needed.
So I'm good for now!
And I just ordered a pair of LCA bushings from Rock Auto. They'll go in a package with a brake booster/master cylinder assembly I gout for $35 in an auction a few weeks back. krazykuda is helping me with the shipping on that.
I'm also getting some clips that are missing. The clips that hold the heater box together. I only have three of the eleven that are needed.
So I'm good for now!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Well thats good to hear about the LCAs i doubt the 73 up are much different than your 66 ones. They even use the same ball joint. Its a fairly mundane part.
The major change in 73 was the larger "upper" ball joint and corresponding A arm which was the same joint used on the larger cars, and i think light pickup trucks and vans. As well as a larger diameter bolt pattern and an upsize to 1/2" wheel studs, the same as the larger cars, light pickups and vans. Probably for standardization, and deep discounts from OEM parts suppliers. I'd like to say power disc brakes became standard on A bodies in 73 however Ma Mopar doesnt disappoint on wierdness, some members have 73s with front drum brakes.
When you get them, match em up to your old ones and the let me know what the differences are besides the sway bar tabs. I am curious.
The major change in 73 was the larger "upper" ball joint and corresponding A arm which was the same joint used on the larger cars, and i think light pickup trucks and vans. As well as a larger diameter bolt pattern and an upsize to 1/2" wheel studs, the same as the larger cars, light pickups and vans. Probably for standardization, and deep discounts from OEM parts suppliers. I'd like to say power disc brakes became standard on A bodies in 73 however Ma Mopar doesnt disappoint on wierdness, some members have 73s with front drum brakes.
When you get them, match em up to your old ones and the let me know what the differences are besides the sway bar tabs. I am curious.
I will, Matt.
FWIW they are the same except for the location of the sway bar tab.
You can cut the 73 sway bar tabs off and use them in the 65-72 position. You might have to do some grinding to make them fit the contours of the control arm but it is doable!
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