66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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MOPARMITCH said:
I think that close to level is best for handling purposes, But everyone's cars are not used in the same fashion. I personally prefer a slight rake for the day 2 look. I just did a complete suspension package on a 79 Trans Am. Including fabricate frame for coil overs. He wanted the car dead level, since he want to road race it.
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Thanks Mitch, What got me a little confused was that the front tire is so much lower than the rear relative to the edge of the fender well.

When I got it, it was seriously raked. I think I'll go with a more neutral stance, just a little raked.

I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the diff pinion angle. Am I correct in assuming that the trans and diff should be pretty close to parallell and the shaft at an angle of roughly 3 degrees relative to the trans output shaft?
 
Well, I was away on a ski trip last week and on the last day I had to stay in because I got a serious pain in one of my sinuses. Today I got antibiotics to get rid of the fever but then I pulled my back this morning.

So there will be no lying under my car for a few days.

And I was really looking forward to it driving home from norway. :banghead:
 
The other day I sold the Holley 600 I bought from Bad Sport along with the edelbrock air cleaner that came with the car. Made a profit so I decided to go on the hunt for a set of better heads. I wanted high comp heads.

Now I may be able to trade my LD4B intake for an RPM AirGap and get a set of Magnum heads for less than $250!

I can't see how that can be a bad switch any way you look at it.

And in the process I got a lead on a company that sells cheap tube bends so I can weld up a set of headers. A 90* bend is like $1.50! Kind of thick walled, 0.1", but that suits my welding skills. :D

So? What's the verdict? Should I swap intake and heads?

The heads I have now are 974.
 
360DartGT66 said:
The other day I sold the Holley 600 I bought from Bad Sport along with the edelbrock air cleaner that came with the car. Made a profit so I decided to go on the hunt for a set of better heads. I wanted high comp heads.

Now I may be able to trade my LD4B intake for an RPM AirGap and get a set of Magnum heads for less than $250!

I can't see how that can be a bad switch any way you look at it.

And in the process I got a lead on a company that sells cheap tube bends so I can weld up a set of headers. A 90* bend is like $1.50! Kind of thick walled, 0.1", but that suits my welding skills. :D

So? What's the verdict? Should I swap intake and heads?

The heads I have now are 974.
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Go for it!
 
I know I'm getting ahead of myself but I wonder if this could be a good cam for my low-end torque monster.

http://www.manciniracing.com/hyd268272dur.html

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,800
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228 int./231 exh.
Advertised Duration: 268 int./272 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.450 int./0.455 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

I've got a lead on a kit with lifters for $150 here in Sweden.

With the magnum heads I should get a decent compression ratio.

Here's the one I've got in now:

http://www.manciniracing.com/hyd280280dur.html

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 238 int./238 exh.
Advertised Duration: 280 int./280 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.474 int./0.474 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
 
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I Went for a ride today looking for a company that could do some media blasting for me (suspension parts). Google pointed me to a place in the middle of the woods. Sure didn't look like a business when I got there.

On my way there, however, I realized I was going right past Djakken's house. I saw his car in the driveway so on my way back I stopped in for a chat.

Always a pleasure to meet him and he told me the first of the weekly cruise-ins at Nääs for the season is on Monday! This is just a few km from here and I'll try to make it. Good to see you, Per!
 
I spoke to the guy who wants my LD4B and is willing to trade me an AirGap for it. The AirGap is for Magnum heads so we talked a little about that. I decided I needed to lift my intake manifold and one of the heads to see what I've got.

Those of you who speak highly of the LD4B, take a look at this pic:
2016-05-01 18.01.50.jpg


Notice the difference in port shape and size?

The intake runners look like they are untouched, maybe with the exception of a slight chamfer right at the opening, more of a de-burring.

These are the pistons I have. They are Keith Black Lite of some sort. Can anyone ID them just from this pic?

2016-05-01 19.09.23.jpg


I did NOT set the piston exactly at TDC. I could only use the starter. Need to get a socket for the crank nut.

I noticed my cam lobes have a little something on them. Did I ruin it already?

2016-05-01 18.04.18.jpg
2016-05-01 18.04.52.jpg
2016-05-01 18.05.27.jpg
 
Hmmm! Couple of those cam lobes look pretty rough from what I can see on my phone
 
'fraid not.

The engine was completely dry when I got it. I did prime the oil pump but when I started it I didn't maintain an rpm over 2,000 like you're supposed to. I had enough trouble getting it to run at all.

What do you think? Wasted or salvageable? Polish it?
 
Me personally would throw some break in oil and see what happens. Karl is the expert on them
 
360DartGT66 said:
I could try tagging @krazykuda and see if he shows up.
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Did you ring???

I would do a compression test on it. do it dry, then wet with a couple squirts of oil in each cylinder and see if the numbers get any better. Then go from there...

Did you have a pressure gauge on it? What kind of oil pressure did it have when you had it running?
 
I don't have an oil pressure gauge, no. I guess I should just get a mechanical one. For testing.

I'm not sure I understand the reason to do a compression test? Are you thinking low oil pressure would have damaged the cylinder bores?

I have a pic of #8 cylinder. Looks very good to me. There's some coolant in there.

2016-05-01 19.09.38.jpg
 
looking at a few of your pics I can say this for sure - she probably isn't going run at peak performance... but, these engines are amazingly resilient.. I have a friend who took a TA340 that had been sitting for 5 years, squirted Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and slowly (as in a little touch every day) turned the crank back and forth until he could get it to move freely - he then took the heads off and cleaned out the bores the best he could without taking the engine apart.. that thing was a beast!! He put it in a 72 Challenger - there were big blocks out there that couldn't touch him. ~ ya just never know...
 
Big day today. I followed - from memory - @krazykuda s excellent thread on compression calculation.

I only did one chamber on both block and head. Too lazy to be more thorough.

These are the numbers:
Head volume (measured): 70 cc
Cylinder volume (measured): 22.5 cc
distance in hole*: 2 mm

Gasket hole diameter: 104.6 mm
Gasket thickness: 0.98 mm

Cylinder diameter: 102.3 mm
Stroke**: 90.932 mm

Remove volume from piston in the hole: −16.4 cc
Actual volume in cylinder @ TDC:
Gasket hole volume: 8.4 cc

Total chamber volume @ TDC 84.5 cc
Total chamber volume @ BDC 831.9 cc

Compression ratio 9.85 :1

Very close to 10:1 which, according to local expertise, is the limit for Swedish unleaded pump gas @ 95 octane.

I'm happy with this! It's a lot better than I thought. Now all I need to do is GET THE THING RUNNING!!!

* With the domed KB pistons, I needed to cc the cylinder with the piston 2 mm below TDC. This means I got a volume LARGER than actual at TDC.
** Normal 360 stroke of 3.58", not measured.

2016-05-03 14.48.19.jpg
2016-05-03 12.43.22.jpg
2016-05-03 12.30.50.jpg
 
ScampMike said:
looking at a few of your pics I can say this for sure - she probably isn't going run at peak performance... but, these engines are amazingly resilient.. I have a friend who took a TA340 that had been sitting for 5 years, squirted Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and slowly (as in a little touch every day) turned the crank back and forth until he could get it to move freely - he then took the heads off and cleaned out the bores the best he could without taking the engine apart.. that thing was a beast!! He put it in a 72 Challenger - there were big blocks out there that couldn't touch him. ~ ya just never know...
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Thanks for giving me hope!

I suppose you're referring to the pics of the cam?

Yeah, when I get it back together I'll try to do a delayed break-in with MoS2 grease on the lobes and perhaps some break-in oil. Maybe it'll smooth itself out.
 
yea - pretty much the cam - suspect at best - the lifters too I'm afraid.. it won't keep it from running of course but, I would keep a close eye on the oil - check for metal often - probably best to put a magnet on your oil filter and check via that instead of constantly draining the entire engine..
 
Thanks Karl. I actually got it to rinse out my nose. :D

I made my polycarbonate piece a little too narrow. As you can probably see, it just barely covers the chambers. I made the mistake to assume that the head bolt holes were symmetrically placed around the piston. As a result, the fill hole is off for the block.

It worked anyway, but I had to force the fluid in to fill the cylinder completely. This caused some leaking past the piston rings. Not much, probably a cc or so.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Thanks Karl. I actually got it to rinse out my nose. :D

I made my polycarbonate piece a little too narrow. As you can probably see, it just barely covers the chambers. I made the mistake to assume that the head bolt holes were symmetrically placed around the piston. As a result, the fill hole is off for the block.

It worked anyway, but I had to force the fluid in to fill the cylinder completely. This caused some leaking past the piston rings. Not much, probably a cc or so.
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Did you fill the ring gap with grease before adding the water to measure? It helps keep the leakage to a minimum...
 
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