66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

-
krazykuda said:
Did you fill the ring gap with grease before adding the water to measure? It helps keep the leakage to a minimum...
Click to expand...
No, I didn't. I figured that little volume should be included. Just greased the mating surfaces btw plastic and head/block.

I won't be re-doing it. I'm somewhere between 9.65:1 and 10:1, probably not far from 9.8:1. I think that's close enough to make decisions.

Did you see my LD4B pictures?
 
360DartGT66 said:
No, I didn't. I figured that little volume should be included. Just greased the mating surfaces btw plastic and head/block.

I won't be re-doing it. I'm somewhere between 9.65:1 and 10:1, probably not far from 9.8:1. I think that's close enough to make decisions.

Did you see my LD4B pictures?
Click to expand...

Yes, I saw them. Some core shift in the ports, but I've seen worse. It's still a good intake...

The small gap between the piston and bore above the rings is so small, it's negligible in the readings. I fill it with axle grease and smooth it out as if it were part of the piston. That way, the grease helps keep the water from leaking past the rings when you are filling the cylinder.
 
Maybe I should read through your thread next time and not do it from memory ... :rolleyes:
 
Re-measured my drive shaft angles this morning. I need to do some welding, it seems.

Transmission yoke angle is 2.5* down and rear pinion angle is 0.5* down. The rear needs to come up 3 degrees. I was so hoping I could just get the drive shaft shortened and bolt it on. Crap.
 
Alright! Went and left a whole lot of stuff at a sand blasting company. I'll take pics of the place when I pick the stuff up. It looked like a movie set from How the West Was Won.

Anyway, Upper and lower control arms, strut rods and bumper brackets are to be blasted and zink primered! I intend to weld in reinforcements on the LCA:s so they won't be getting the epoxi coat that the rest of the stuff will.

Top layer I will be adding myself later. Haven't decided on color yet.
 
... and now I'm off to drop off my drive shaft to be cut to length. Cross your fingers the I've measured it right!
 
Well, dropping off the drive shaft was easy. Managed to fail, though. I did think to bring the joints in case they needed them. Did NOT think to bring the yoke in case they needed it. They do. All of it. Assembled. And I was being nice and took the rear joint out just before I left.
Doh!
In my defense, I did call to ask about these things but didn't get an answer.
Anyway, They quoted me SEK 2,950 for the job including making a diameter taper-down because I needed to cut enough off to remove the one that is on the shaft already. That is SEK 450.
Converted into US dollars, that is $362. Plus 25% sales tax (don't go there).
I'm thinking I could get a new one in Sweden for a lot less.
@65dartcharger, I seem to remember seeing a couple of drive shafts at your place. Any of them for sale?
The length I need is 1270 mm (50") center to center between the joints.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Well, dropping off the drive shaft was easy. Managed to fail, though. I did think to bring the joints in case they needed them. Did NOT think to bring the yoke in case they needed it. They do. All of it. Assembled. And I was being nice and took the rear joint out just before I left.
Doh!
In my defense, I did call to ask about these things but didn't get an answer.
Anyway, They quoted me SEK 2,950 for the job including making a diameter taper-down because I needed to cut enough off to remove the one that is on the shaft already. That is SEK 450.
Converted into US dollars, that is $362. Plus 25% sales tax (don't go there).
I'm thinking I could get a new one in Sweden for a lot less.
@65dartcharger, I seem to remember seeing a couple of drive shafts at your place. Any of them for sale?
The length I need is 1270 mm (50") center to center between the joints.
Click to expand...

Wow, thats a lot of cabbage for a cut n balance on a driveshaft. Not trying to add insult to injury here but, my local place, "precision clutch and driveline" can do a shorten and rebalance for under $100 with tax as long as theres new joints already pressed in. I'm sure the shop you went to isnt the only game in town. You may need to shop around.

BTW i like your avatar. Did your kid draw that of you? My kids always seem to draw me with a straight across 5 o'clock shadow, and a yellow Jegs hat lol.
 
360DartGT66 said:
The length I need is 1270 mm (50") center to center between the joints.
Click to expand...

I probably have several in that length but the shipping might be expensive.

The last time I had a driveshaft shorted was maybe in 1990 and it cost a little more than $50 AND included new U Joints! Bet it's more than that now!
 
moparmat2000 said:
Wow, thats a lot of cabbage for a cut n balance on a driveshaft. Not trying to add insult to injury here but, my local place, "precision clutch and driveline" can do a shorten and rebalance for under $100 with tax as long as theres new joints already pressed in. I'm sure the shop you went to isnt the only game in town. You may need to shop around.

BTW i like your avatar. Did your kid draw that of you? My kids always seem to draw me with a straight across 5 o'clock shadow, and a yellow Jegs hat lol.
Click to expand...
Yes, My 4yo drew it but it actually depicts a 'monster', not me. :)

It actually is the only drive shaft company in town... They are highly professional, though. Probably 90% of what they do is for industry, trucks or ships.
 
Everybody keep your fingers crossed! Looks like I'm about to trade my LD4B for an LD340! There's a guy over here who is willing to part with one for $185. The guy I've mentioned who wants my LD4B for a stock 273 race car is willing to buy that and have it shipped to me so he can get my intake.

Sweet, huh?

I think $185 sounds like a good price for an LD340.
 
And it's here!
The seller didn't pack it too well but it seems ok. Dirty and one of the carb stud threads is bad. But so is one on my LD4B so that evens it out. :)
They really are very close to identical. The plenum on the LD340 is considerably larger and the ports are swapped. I wonder why they decided to make that change. Does it make the runners slightly longer?
Can't really see any other significant differences. The bungs and ports are a little difference.
The plenum wall has been milled down I think. Can anyone tell me what effect this will have, whether it's good or bad?
I'll clean it up and look for cracks but I can't see why I wouldn't make the swap so I'll most likely be sending my intake later today.
2016-05-17 16.40.07.jpg
2016-05-17 22.29.01.jpg
2016-05-17 22.29.36.jpg
2016-05-17 22.29.40.jpg
2016-05-17 22.30.19.jpg
 
Well, I got the LD4B shipped off to its new owner and cleaned up the LD340. The coolant bypass nipple was seriously corroded so I put the torch on it and managed to wrestle it loose last night. Removed the heater hose nipple, too.
The threads got a bit messed up but I hope they'll be ok with a little thread sealant.
I'm sort of wondering aobut my suspension parts that I left at the sand blaster. They ought to be done by now. I guess I'll stop by on my way to pick up the kids' passports tomorrow.
2016-05-21 15.24.44.jpg
2016-05-21 15.24.50.jpg
2016-05-21 15.24.55.jpg
 
pretty sure they are both pipe thread. so, you can use thread tape or heavier paste type sealant, or both. Just make sure the threads are good before putting a new fitting in. if you don't have a pipe tap, run a new pipe nipple in to chase the threads.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Well, I got the LD4B shipped off to its new owner and cleaned up the LD340. The coolant bypass nipple was seriously corroded so I put the torch on it and managed to wrestle it loose last night. Removed the heater hose nipple, too.
The threads got a bit messed up but I hope they'll be ok with a little thread sealant.
I'm sort of wondering aobut my suspension parts that I left at the sand blaster. They ought to be done by now. I guess I'll stop by on my way to pick up the kids' passports tomorrow.
View attachment 1714936635 View attachment 1714936636 View attachment 1714936637
Click to expand...
The intake manifold hose nipple kits that are correct for this application for not too much coin. They even have the correct slot in the end to tighten them in. Maybe you should contact don and see if he can get them. Also theres a guy on fabo selling the bypass hose made from silicone. You will never worry about replacing it.

2016-05-22-07-27-07--1305633355.jpg


2016-05-22-07-27-22--1473068214.jpg
 
Cheers!
Maybe I'll upgrade eventually but I already bought a new bypass hose. I'll try to get get new nipples shipped over, I have a box coming over soon.
I made my own little thread cleaner from a straight pipe thread reducer I had. Worked pretty ok, cleaned out the worst before the taper became too tight.
Couldn't find one that was 3/8" tapered NPT, though.
2016-05-22 13.42.23.jpg
 
360DartGT66 said:
Cheers!
Maybe I'll upgrade eventually but I already bought a new bypass hose. I'll try to get get new nipples shipped over, I have a box coming over soon.
I made my own little thread cleaner from a straight pipe thread reducer I had. Worked pretty ok, cleaned out the worst before the taper became too tight.
Couldn't find one that was 3/8" tapered NPT, though.
Click to expand...
that works... I think an actual threaded pipe end would get you in a couple more threads, but its usually the first couple that are the worst.
 
I have this "dental" tool, an angled "pick". I used that to scrape the inner threads and the valleys of the rest. Looks ok now. It's still busted up but at least the valleys aren't blocked.
2016-05-22 16.00.28.jpg
2016-05-22 16.00.49.jpg
 
Try taking a steel nipple and slot a grove down the thread and use it carefully to cut the debris out of the threads. It works just blow it out while doing it.
 
halifaxhops said:
Try taking a steel nipple and slot a grove down the thread and use it carefully to cut the debris out of the threads. It works just blow it out while doing it.
Click to expand...
I did just that, Ray. Couldn't find one for the 3/8, though.
 
And here it is!
The guy couldn't remember which parts I wanted zinc only so he epoxi primered the LCA:s too. I plan on reinforce them so that was kind of a waste. No problem, though, I'll just grind the paint off and weld away.
He missed a spot or two but I figure I'll just spray some rattle can primer on there before I paint them.
I just grabbed whatever I could find that I thought could use a sand blasting and a zinc coat when I went there so I didn't have time to test fit the bumper brackets. I don't even know which ones go where!
Anyway, I'm happy paying $60 for this! Now I can start mounting my urethane bushing kit!
Any suggestions for final paint color on this stuff? I'm thinking not black.
2016-05-23 15.11.12.jpg
 
awesome Anders - looking good! I have a set of front bumper brackets that I painted gunmetal grey - they came out clean looking with out being WOW obvious... I got nothing for the other parts - 'cause you know me - I was gonna say black... LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top