I don't have a sway bar so I figure I'll make one. How hard can that be? 
66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
- Thread starter 360DartGT66
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Hmmm, make your own? Originals were solid steel bent in different ways to clear the K Frame front brace and then with eyelets at the ends for the end links. I suppose it could be done if you are ambitious. Much easier to just buy one. They show up fairly regular on FABO or you might consider the Hellwig - hollow sway bar - strong, large diameter yet light compared to the puny little stock bar. That's what I will use on my wagon along with a 76 A Body police car factory rear sway bar.
I'm thinking about making one with a straight, hollow tube and flat heavy gauge end pieces, bolted on or welded. The end pieces cut and possibly formed to the shape that's necessary to clear the tires and the other stuff that's under there.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Sounds like a pretty ambitious plan. Wouldn't it have to be made from some form of spring steel to make sure it didn't remain tweaked when the car sways?
This sounds logical!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Racecar stuff. Make the end links out of heim joints too.
I think hot rod magazine showed somebody making a custom front sway bar for a dodge dart.
I think hot rod magazine showed somebody making a custom front sway bar for a dodge dart.
We know steel in Sweden.
I actually got the idea from this episode of Finnegan's Garage:
Really? I need to look that up. Thanks!
Nice progress on your car Anders!
Well, thanks. It's not that much but it's something.
After sand blasting, zinc coating and epoxi priming, I decided to remove the UCA ball joints. Why do things in a sensible order?
Also, I could have included the ball joints in the order to Rock Auto I placed a few days ago ... I think I can get them at a reasonable price over here, though. Come to think of it, skruvat.se might carry the LCA bushings too ...
A recent Mopar acquaintance, the guy I traded intakes with, is sending me the post '73 LCA:s free of charge. I only pay for the shipping. Did I mention that?
Oh, and the drive shaft is ready! I'll be picking it up tomorrow. They needed to shim the joints to eliminate the clearance before welding and balancing. Made in USA ...
Also, I could have included the ball joints in the order to Rock Auto I placed a few days ago ... I think I can get them at a reasonable price over here, though. Come to think of it, skruvat.se might carry the LCA bushings too ...
A recent Mopar acquaintance, the guy I traded intakes with, is sending me the post '73 LCA:s free of charge. I only pay for the shipping. Did I mention that?
Oh, and the drive shaft is ready! I'll be picking it up tomorrow. They needed to shim the joints to eliminate the clearance before welding and balancing. Made in USA ...
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I see tools but no duct tape or baling wire. - You sure you're a mechanic?
You didn't notice the yellow tie-down strap that keeps the UCA from rotating around the breaker bar clamped in the vice?
And my large stash of zip ties are just outside the frame.
And my large stash of zip ties are just outside the frame.
Ain't she a beauty. Now I have a serious incentive to get my front end together, route a few brake lines, put the seals in the calipers and put my cylinder head and intake back in place.
A test run is actually conceivable!
A test run is actually conceivable!
My free LCA:s arrived today, too. Sent out yesterday so that was pretty well done, Bussgods (shipping firm)! Took them apart with ease this time, having figured out a working modus operandi last time.
I'm not sure I'll be using these after all. They are pretty rusty.
I'm considering trying electrolytic rust removal. Has anyone done that? I've found a very good how-to on YT. Need a welding transformer/inverter, though.
Here's what they look like in pieces, anyway.
I'm not sure I'll be using these after all. They are pretty rusty.
I'm considering trying electrolytic rust removal. Has anyone done that? I've found a very good how-to on YT. Need a welding transformer/inverter, though.
Here's what they look like in pieces, anyway.
Here's a link to that electrolysis video:
If you can get Evapororust over there, that is the best stuff for removing rust!
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
You'd probably be pretty pleased with those pieces after some time with a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it. If nothing else it would remove most of what needs to be taken off.
You do know that those LCAs are for a 73-76 A Body with a sway bar? They will fit and install on your 66 no problem; however, the sway bar tabs are in the wrong place. They should be out at the end like this one:
I haven't seen it but it might be available online. Being an electrical engineer married to a chemical engineer, setting up an electrolysis bath seems like the natural choice.
I'll be going over it with the wire wheel first bur there are a lot of places I won't be able to get at with the wheel. I could just get them sand blasted but I'm not sure that would get everything even.
Yes, I'm aware of that. I don't have a sway bar anyway so I'll either be getting that from Jesper (who sent me these, he has that too, it was just a little too bulky to ship) or making my own. As far as I know, the original bar is pretty flimsy.
Yesterday I scored a little stick welder for $20! Isn't it cute? I'm a little worried about the condition of the cables so I think I'll take it apart and look it over after I try it. I don't want to start a fire.
I plan on using it for my electrolysis experiment. The plate on the side says 50-80 Amps which might be a little on the high side. I'll take her apart and see what adjustments can be made.
I plan on using it for my electrolysis experiment. The plate on the side says 50-80 Amps which might be a little on the high side. I'll take her apart and see what adjustments can be made.
I installed my drive shaft yesterday. Great feeling. Brake lines and putting the engine back together and I can go for a spin! Now that I've gotten a set of LCA pins with the sleeves still on them, I can theoretically put my front end back together. I won't be doing that just now, though, since my ball joints are full of blasting sand. I'm debating with myself whether to order from the states or buy over here. Big price difference but maybe quicker delivery. Not sure what to do. I do have a package coming over soon but I'm afraid to add more weight to it. It's getting kinda heavy ...
I measured the actual drive line angles after installation and got -2.8/-2.3/-0.6 degrees, engine/shaft/pinion. If I shim the rear axle up 3.5 degrees, that will - after a little trigonometry - become -2.8/-1.5/+2.9 which is close to perfect, if I'm not mistaken.
This is with a set of winter wheels in the trunk and the chassis level. If the actual ride height of the car is a little lower, the shaft will become more horizontal, increasing the ball joint angles slightly, which is ok.
If the actual load is lighter, however, the shaft angle will become larger and the ball joint angles will decrease. If they become too small, I will have to take action, further increasing the slope of the engine (and shim the rear up even more) or raise the rear somehow. Not sure how to accomplish that. I'll solve that when that day comes, I guess.
I'm staring at shims at Summit, trying to decide which ones to order. The cheapest ones are not in stock and the 3.5 degree ones they do have in stock are double the money. Also, I'm pondering whether to get several shims so I can fine-tune. I think my calculations are correct, though, so I'll probably go with the 3.5 degree ones.
Here's a tip I got from HotRod Garage. The app I used is from Tremec. Look for 'Tremec Toolbox' on App store. It can do a few other things also but I've only used this feature.
I measured the actual drive line angles after installation and got -2.8/-2.3/-0.6 degrees, engine/shaft/pinion. If I shim the rear axle up 3.5 degrees, that will - after a little trigonometry - become -2.8/-1.5/+2.9 which is close to perfect, if I'm not mistaken.
This is with a set of winter wheels in the trunk and the chassis level. If the actual ride height of the car is a little lower, the shaft will become more horizontal, increasing the ball joint angles slightly, which is ok.
If the actual load is lighter, however, the shaft angle will become larger and the ball joint angles will decrease. If they become too small, I will have to take action, further increasing the slope of the engine (and shim the rear up even more) or raise the rear somehow. Not sure how to accomplish that. I'll solve that when that day comes, I guess.
I'm staring at shims at Summit, trying to decide which ones to order. The cheapest ones are not in stock and the 3.5 degree ones they do have in stock are double the money. Also, I'm pondering whether to get several shims so I can fine-tune. I think my calculations are correct, though, so I'll probably go with the 3.5 degree ones.
Here's a tip I got from HotRod Garage. The app I used is from Tremec. Look for 'Tremec Toolbox' on App store. It can do a few other things also but I've only used this feature.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
This may not end well.
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