Turns out the lock ring and sprayer T (looks more like an F) came from @krazykuda. Thanks again, friend!
66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Looking at your booster and MC has renewed my interest in tearing mine down and going through it. The booster didnt leak when it was in the parts car i bought and took it from. Car ran , brakes worked good. I have actually taken the diaphragm rubbers when going through other boosters for project cars and renewed them a bit with silicone based vinyl protectant. Nothing as old as this one though.
I'm going down in the basement right now to tear it apart.
I think this was leaking somewhere, there was evidence of water collecting inside the front chamber and it was rusted on the inside. Exchange of air often leads to condensation collecting and being trapped inside not-quite-hermetically sealed compartments.
I can't find any evidence of ruptured diaphragms but there was rust on pretty much all sealing surfaces. Especially on the outside where the grommet for the check valve sits. And I think the check valve is not-so-good.
Does this part come off? It looks like a bayonet coupling.
I can't find any evidence of ruptured diaphragms but there was rust on pretty much all sealing surfaces. Especially on the outside where the grommet for the check valve sits. And I think the check valve is not-so-good.
Does this part come off? It looks like a bayonet coupling.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Not sure how far these come apart. Only other ones i have ever taken apart were GM late model mid 80s ones, and this was mostly to shorten the brake pedal pushrods, and thread them for heim joints for custom applications. Everything had to come apart just to get to the snap ring inside the booster that released the pushrod. The big question is where do the rebuilders get their replacement parts for these? I'd love to buy a diaphragm and seal kit instead of inspecting everything, trying to soften the rubber with silicone protectant, and reusing.
The metal surfaces inside the booster canister on mine i plan on spraying a couple thin coats of akzo noble S55-90 fluid resistant epoxy aircraft primer, after i dip and strip all the corrosion off everything. I may get the outside done with the gold tone zinc dichromate as original, but am also seriously concidering a gloss black for the booster as well, but only because i think that color will pop better against 1967 plymouth yellow.
I am using a larger bore 79 chrysler cordoba master cylinder, as well as the larger 11.75 inch 79 cordoba rotors, 2.75" piston calipers, and cordoba 10" x 2.50" kelsey hayes finned drums on the rear. All this was designed originally to stop a 3,975 pound car, my cuda is only 2,900 lbs. Should work well.
The metal surfaces inside the booster canister on mine i plan on spraying a couple thin coats of akzo noble S55-90 fluid resistant epoxy aircraft primer, after i dip and strip all the corrosion off everything. I may get the outside done with the gold tone zinc dichromate as original, but am also seriously concidering a gloss black for the booster as well, but only because i think that color will pop better against 1967 plymouth yellow.
I am using a larger bore 79 chrysler cordoba master cylinder, as well as the larger 11.75 inch 79 cordoba rotors, 2.75" piston calipers, and cordoba 10" x 2.50" kelsey hayes finned drums on the rear. All this was designed originally to stop a 3,975 pound car, my cuda is only 2,900 lbs. Should work well.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Anders,
I saw you got ahold of Chris ValiantOne about the starter adaptors. I need to get a set of these for my build as well.
I saw you got ahold of Chris ValiantOne about the starter adaptors. I need to get a set of these for my build as well.
Well, I got the MC apart. This was stuck in there pretty bad. I think it might need a re-build ... Shot out pretty hard when I put the compressed air on it so I'm not entirely sure this is the way it goes together ...
And I think the cylinder will turn out ok after honing.
And I think the cylinder will turn out ok after honing.
Hone it and see what happens.
I have honed it now. Not sure how fine I have to make the surface.
Sa long as there are no high spots you should be good.
So a rough surface won't eat up the seals?
Wel not like 220 grit. around 400 grit texture should be good. A trick I use when honing brake parts is use fine rubbing compound in a slurry like lube. works great!
It looked a little rough but feels smooth as a baby's bottom. Now all I need to do is find a re-build kit.
I'll check Anders! I might have a rebuild kit for your master cylinder.
Really?! Wow, that would be awesome!
It's the '73-'76 15/16" bore cylinder for power brakes, front disk, rear drums. I THINK.
It's the '73-'76 15/16" bore cylinder for power brakes, front disk, rear drums. I THINK.
Now, this arrived in the mail today and it had me seriously confused:
When I opened it I was so happy! Thank you so much, @swedefish! I have to put them on right away!
When I opened it I was so happy! Thank you so much, @swedefish! I have to put them on right away!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Wow awesome. I always wondered why lug nuts came 4 to a package when almost everything is 5 lug nuts per wheel. Looks like your parts collection is getting bigger every day.
That is odd, isn't it?
Finally something's happening! Look at my new rear wheels and look at my shim:ed rear axle!
These are the new numbers from the Tremec app:
It's actually still off by one degree but I'm not doing any more adjusting until I have the car on the ground.
These are the new numbers from the Tremec app:
It's actually still off by one degree but I'm not doing any more adjusting until I have the car on the ground.
It is! Thank you once again! 
I like your pairs of nuts also!
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
Yo
Always have 4 wheels, so unless you have lefty on one side, you can always get the right amount by ordering as many packs as you have lugs per wheel.
That's right his is half lefty!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Anders, i contacted TheRamman on ebay about his brake booster rebuild kits, and brake parts. Specifically the mopar A body one from 1973 - 1976. This is a Midland Ross type unit with the strap holding the halves of the booster together. He told me a rebuild kit for this booster would cost me $145, he just doesnt have it listed on evilbay. So yes the kit to rebuild this is out there. I mentioned to him about putting this kit on ebay.
I took mine apart, and yesterday i dropped the steel parts in a water and molasses mixture to remove the minor rust on everything Just checked it today. Everythings looking good. Almost all cleaned up. Some minor pitting from where dot 3 brake fluid caused a bit of corrosion from a leaky master cylinder. I plan to sand this smooth, and may just have the canister halves powdercoated black. This solves any rust issues inside the unit. I would have painted it , and coated the inside with the epoxy primer if it was pitted badly , but the metal is really nice and for the most part smooth and will take the powdercoat nicely.
Hope this helps
Matt
I took mine apart, and yesterday i dropped the steel parts in a water and molasses mixture to remove the minor rust on everything Just checked it today. Everythings looking good. Almost all cleaned up. Some minor pitting from where dot 3 brake fluid caused a bit of corrosion from a leaky master cylinder. I plan to sand this smooth, and may just have the canister halves powdercoated black. This solves any rust issues inside the unit. I would have painted it , and coated the inside with the epoxy primer if it was pitted badly , but the metal is really nice and for the most part smooth and will take the powdercoat nicely.
Hope this helps
Matt
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