ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
ah ha.. so my memory isn't quite as bad as I thought - I think..
66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
- Thread starter 360DartGT66
- Start date
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Do the braces make the drive line more robust or stiffer or is it really inconsequential?
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
really inconsequential - they are in there stock but once you modify the car and add performance they don't fit/aren't needed.. so now that the car is faster I need them less??? yea, inconsequential. I read somewhere that they are total engineering overkill.
Well I really got busy today. After the starter, dust shield and compression calculations, I put the cylinder head back on. Scraped off all the paint flakes around the perimeter to be sure.
The rocker assembly really needed a good cleaning after sitting on my workbench for a couple of months.
Then I got really crazy an started putting the front end together. Screw paint. I want to go for a ride!
New ball joints installed. THE WRONG WAY! I knew things were going to smoothly. They were a PITA to tighten with the vice ...
Then I used a little creativity to press in the LCA pins. I decided to go with urethane LCA bushings after all. I got a pair of rubber ones in the box the other day so I can change if I find it too rough.
That grease that came with the urethane bushings is really nasty. Sticky and difficult to clean off the hands.
After a little violence and a lot of sweat I managed to get the UCA installed on the passenger side. The LCA was a breeze in comparison.
Some previous owner has welded a piece of sheet metal between the UCA cam bolts, on the top side of the frame horn. It prevents the cam disk from rotating downwards. I'll need to remove that to be able to adjust the camber to anything less than super racing.
The rocker assembly really needed a good cleaning after sitting on my workbench for a couple of months.
Then I got really crazy an started putting the front end together. Screw paint. I want to go for a ride!
New ball joints installed. THE WRONG WAY! I knew things were going to smoothly. They were a PITA to tighten with the vice ...
Then I used a little creativity to press in the LCA pins. I decided to go with urethane LCA bushings after all. I got a pair of rubber ones in the box the other day so I can change if I find it too rough.
That grease that came with the urethane bushings is really nasty. Sticky and difficult to clean off the hands.
After a little violence and a lot of sweat I managed to get the UCA installed on the passenger side. The LCA was a breeze in comparison.
Some previous owner has welded a piece of sheet metal between the UCA cam bolts, on the top side of the frame horn. It prevents the cam disk from rotating downwards. I'll need to remove that to be able to adjust the camber to anything less than super racing.
When I was installing the rocker assembly I realized I only have 3/8" sockets and the torque wrench is 1/2". I needed an adapter. Good thing I have a bench grinder!
And I'm liking my new valve covers already. They're a little taller than the stamped ones, actually, but only the fins so the MC should fit equally poorly with them.
And I'm liking my new valve covers already. They're a little taller than the stamped ones, actually, but only the fins so the MC should fit equally poorly with them.
I'm debating with myself whether I should replace the head gasket on the other cylinder bank also. I suppose it would be better to have exactly the same gasket to avoid a compression difference between the banks but the difference can't be all that big, can it? The old gasket is about 40 thousands thick too.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
wow - nice work!! Love the socket adapter "trick" 
. As for the head gasket - if you're sure it's the same and it's not leaking - leave it. BTW - love the blue trans dip stick tub against the orange engine
. As for the head gasket - if you're sure it's the same and it's not leaking - leave it. BTW - love the blue trans dip stick tub against the orange engine
It isn't the same gasket but it's very close in thickness. I'll replace it tomorrow, I think. Might as well practice.wow - nice work!! Love the socket adapter "trick"
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
I waited to see progress for a long time while you danced around poles and snoozed on your vacation. - You're sure making up for it now!
Yeah, well I decided to leave it over summer so I've been really eager to get started again. Plus the box full of stuff I got really got me excited!I waited to see progress for a long time while you danced around poles and snoozed on your vacation. - You're sure making up for it now!
I would think it makes it a little more stable/rigid, but I've gone hundreds of thousands of miles without them on a street driver....
Sure is! Right now the flame has died, for sure! A little too much effort for one day. Man, I wish I could go at a slower pace now and then. I always go full throttle, don't take breaks.It's great when you get that flame back...
Work hard, play hard, then sleep hard.... (There's plenty of time to catch up on sleep after you die - I'm planning to roll over many minutes/hours...)
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Wow, all that work in such a short time, Anders ya make me look bad LOL. I have to read your thread every so often for inspiration.
I am sure you cant wait to hear the roar of an uncorked V8 in your driveway lol
I am sure you cant wait to hear the roar of an uncorked V8 in your driveway lol
I try to a little every day. Wish I coul go full throttle!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Not to worry i'm not hijacking your thread Anders, i just cant believe how good this concoction is. A good dunk for 2 days in the stinky as heck molasses and water mixture followed by a generous rinse in a trisodium phosphate and water mixture. Rust is all gone. Some of these pieces look like they are fresh stamped. Nice part is since i have no time to really mess with this stuff lately, i just submerge it in the tank, and let it soak. Nothing steel was hit with a wire wheel afterwards either. This is as pulled from the dip tank, rinsed, and dried.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Dang! - Those parts really look good!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Other than dissassembling everything, i did absolutely nothing else aside from the dunk, and rinse 2 days later. The mixture stripped all the rust and gold zinc plating off everything. I am trying to decide if i want the brackets and booster gold zinc plated again, or if i just want to paint the booster black, or all of it black. Decisions decisions. It all depends on where i can find a plater to do this, and how cheaply.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Found a place in Haltom city. Its between Ft Worth, and Dallas. I just sent pix asked for a quote to have it all gold zinc plated. The minor pitted areas on the front half of the booster i will have to remove the pitting, and get everything smooth for the plating process. I hope they dont want too much to recoat everything. If the price is reasonable i will send it. They had samples on their website. They mentioned they do restoration type stuff too. All the other places were high production.
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1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Everything else being equal, I'd prefer the zinc plating. - But cost would be the stumbling block. Let us know what they charge.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
ok will do.
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Wow, Matt, that is really amazing! I'm not sure where I can find molasses but I suppose the almighty internet might have a clue. I need to look into it.
I noticed the little sort of m-shaped foam piece that goes behind the flat plastic cover between the booster and MC in your pic. I was sure mine had disintegrated and used to go all the way around the large hole. Thanks for showing it! Mine is very ... affected by time so I think I might have to replace it somehow.
Thanks for the kind words, guys, but remember, I was planning on painting the LCA:s and UCA:s before mounting them. I just skipped that step and mounted them anyway to get ahead.
I saw a Q&A session with Finnegan and Freiburger on Motor Trend On Demand the other day where Finnegan said he hadn't owned a properly painted vehicle in decades. I caught on to that. Now, he has been living in California and I live in south-west Sweden so I might not be able to avoid a layer of paint to keep things from being destroyed, but maybe I don't have to be quite as serious as I've been planning.
My car isn't going to be exhibition quality. I want a more race:ish look. Bright color and stickers, maybe even some lettering and numbers. So why should I spend $2k on a fantastic paint job?
We'll see. Maybe this winter I find inspiration to be that thorough.
I noticed the little sort of m-shaped foam piece that goes behind the flat plastic cover between the booster and MC in your pic. I was sure mine had disintegrated and used to go all the way around the large hole. Thanks for showing it! Mine is very ... affected by time so I think I might have to replace it somehow.
Thanks for the kind words, guys, but remember, I was planning on painting the LCA:s and UCA:s before mounting them. I just skipped that step and mounted them anyway to get ahead.
I saw a Q&A session with Finnegan and Freiburger on Motor Trend On Demand the other day where Finnegan said he hadn't owned a properly painted vehicle in decades. I caught on to that. Now, he has been living in California and I live in south-west Sweden so I might not be able to avoid a layer of paint to keep things from being destroyed, but maybe I don't have to be quite as serious as I've been planning.
My car isn't going to be exhibition quality. I want a more race:ish look. Bright color and stickers, maybe even some lettering and numbers. So why should I spend $2k on a fantastic paint job?
We'll see. Maybe this winter I find inspiration to be that thorough.
That worked great, can you give us more details on the process/mixture??? How much molasses/water ratio, and how to do the trisodium phosphate work? Mix ratio and do you just use a rag to wipe it off afterwards???
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
This is a process called Chelation. Its 1 part feed grade molasses to 9 parts water. Softer ferrous metals i have found it will eat. Stamped steel sheetmetal it wont eat. I lost a whole batch of sems fender screws and nuts because i wasnt paying attention. Luckily i found a wholesale supplier to replace these with new, however i still need to find the 5/16 wide washered nuts. It also eats off the crappy factory black dipped paint too
You need a plastic tub with a lid or large plastic trash can with lid depending on what you want to dip. You need enough solution to completely submerge the part. I found a rectangular 35 gallon trash can i plan on buying and using for wheels and my K frames.
Depending on the rust some parts clean up in a few days some in a little over a week. I had an oem mopar battery tray that took 8 days but was clean pitted steel when done. No brown corrosion spots. I tend to check on everything every few days. My sems body bolts i forgot about for 2 weeks, thats what killed them.
Once the parts are all cleaned of rust, you cannot let the air get to them or flash rust will occur. The trisodium phosphate powder mixed in solution with water in a pump type plant sprayer is what you need to use. 1/4 cup TSP to a gallon of water. Take 1 part at a time lift it from the molasses mixture and before the molasses water mixture dries on it you have to hose it off right away thoroughly with the water/tsp mix, then let air dry. I plan on making a drying rack with hooks to hang parts to air dry. The TSP in solution with the water allows rinsing of the molasses mixture and prevents flash rust. You can buy the tsp at lowes or home depot in the paint supplies section. A small box is about $3
Prep work for paint after it dries, well there is no prep work. As long as the part did not go into the solution greasy , and has residue still on it, just prime and paint. To be sure just wipe the parts down with a bit of laquer thinner and a clean cloth, or paper towel.
The molasses solution is non toxic, and can prob be used as plant or grass fertilizer when not needed anymore as it has a high iron content when it disolves rust.
(I'd recommend trying it on a spot first)
The bad part is the stink. This stuff stinks BAD!!!! Wear heavy duty rubber or chemical resistant gloves when working with it, as it absorbs into your skin then no matter how much you wash, your hands smell like it for days.
Anders you mentioned finding molasses, check a local agricultural feed store. A gallon cost me $10. For $20 more and a large trash can i will be dipping steel wheels and K frames LOL.
You need a plastic tub with a lid or large plastic trash can with lid depending on what you want to dip. You need enough solution to completely submerge the part. I found a rectangular 35 gallon trash can i plan on buying and using for wheels and my K frames.
Depending on the rust some parts clean up in a few days some in a little over a week. I had an oem mopar battery tray that took 8 days but was clean pitted steel when done. No brown corrosion spots. I tend to check on everything every few days. My sems body bolts i forgot about for 2 weeks, thats what killed them.
Once the parts are all cleaned of rust, you cannot let the air get to them or flash rust will occur. The trisodium phosphate powder mixed in solution with water in a pump type plant sprayer is what you need to use. 1/4 cup TSP to a gallon of water. Take 1 part at a time lift it from the molasses mixture and before the molasses water mixture dries on it you have to hose it off right away thoroughly with the water/tsp mix, then let air dry. I plan on making a drying rack with hooks to hang parts to air dry. The TSP in solution with the water allows rinsing of the molasses mixture and prevents flash rust. You can buy the tsp at lowes or home depot in the paint supplies section. A small box is about $3
Prep work for paint after it dries, well there is no prep work. As long as the part did not go into the solution greasy , and has residue still on it, just prime and paint. To be sure just wipe the parts down with a bit of laquer thinner and a clean cloth, or paper towel.
The molasses solution is non toxic, and can prob be used as plant or grass fertilizer when not needed anymore as it has a high iron content when it disolves rust.
(I'd recommend trying it on a spot first)
The bad part is the stink. This stuff stinks BAD!!!! Wear heavy duty rubber or chemical resistant gloves when working with it, as it absorbs into your skin then no matter how much you wash, your hands smell like it for days.
Anders you mentioned finding molasses, check a local agricultural feed store. A gallon cost me $10. For $20 more and a large trash can i will be dipping steel wheels and K frames LOL.
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