67 383 K Frame

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68hemidart2000

68hemidart2000

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Hi Guys I've got an idea but was wondering if anyone could shed some light on this? I've got a factory big block k-frame 67 year and wanted to know if anyone has ever cut the 67 idler arm mount off and replaced it with a 68-72 style for better parts availability? I will be using this for my 69 Dart Swinger 440-4-speed build. any help here would be great...Thanks:wav:
 
You should not have any problems if your careful. Wouldn't help the value of it if that even matters. I don't believe changing the idler arm mount is as difficult as finding the motor mounts for that K-frame.
 
ssba, Thanks for your input on this. Lucky for me I've got the factory motor mounts for the k-frame as well as the correct bellhousing. Do you have any idea why Mopar changed the idler arm in 68? I've got a 68 gts and the idler setup looks like it's a stronger setup than the 67. I wonder if they broke easy and that's why it changed? Funny thing is my 67 GTX has the same style idler so maybe it's fine. I wonder if it changed on the B-body in 68 as well?
 
It is a common fix to modify the idler arm mounting bracket so the one year (1967) idler arm can be done away with. There are several threads about it on this site.
 
I have done this myself. Just be careful to get the correct working angle. It can/will affect bump steer when the suspension rises/falls. In other words, the toe-in / toe-out will be affected. Never know it at normal ride height, but when you accelerate "hard" the right front tire may toe excessively.
 
You'd be better off selling it to somebody for a restoration project and building yourself a copy of the old Direct Connection k-member using a 73-76 V8 k-member.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnaM_jHLi08&list=UUqvjc-8llEE-JKNFYw30-NQ&feature=share&index=5"]DC K-member 04 part one a.mp4 - YouTube[/ame]
 
sell it to someone who needs it! just use schumacher mounts on a stock 318 K mem... much easier! and much cheaper!
 
Thanks Rob Eppler you answered my question. I was wondering about the affects of doing this and I'll just take a 68 K and the Big Block 67 to a buddy of mine who runs a welding shop, for him this is a walk in the park. I already have a DC K-Frame and don't want to use it on this car.That's fine for a race car but I'm trying to build a more Factory style setup more like the M-code "all original parts". Now as for selling it, Never going to happen! I gave a factory 68 Big block one to a long time buddy of mine for his 68 383 GTS that was hacked up years ago for racing and that's the only reason I wanted to know about the idler bracket. I just looked at a car with schumacher mounts in it and it raises the motor upward quite a bit over the Factory or the DC K-Frame. On the duster they were in the right valve cover only has .30" between it and the blower motor, I sure wouldn't want that in my Mopar! Thanks for the input guys...Eric
 
How much space will you gain between the blower motor & valve cover by using the 67 k-frame over the Dc or conversion mounts? Just curious because with the last homebuilt Dc k I built I felt the fenderwell headers would have fit better if engine was lowered some.
 
I would be guessing here but if I put #'s to it I would say the Factory K lowers the motor about a 1/2 inch but where the real gain is that the motor moves closer to the radiator than the DC K about a 1/4 inch, I assume this is because of the height change, as for the conversion mounts I'd rather use elephant ears if I didn't have a Factory or a DC K. I used the ears in my old race car with a 426 Wedge and they worked pretty well. Oh but one thing about the Factory K and mounts is that you have to use a 74 and newer 440 Block for the 2 threaded bosses earlier 440's never had these so the Factory M-codes got a strap added to the left mount to use the holes by the oil pump. I will be using a 74 block with 70 HP2 guts in it to get the right pads.
 
I do remember seeing that bolt boss on the front of the block being used with some of the original mounts. I like your plan. If I had a original bb k I am sure I would use it also.
I have started a second spool type bb k- frame for a new project and this time around I started by completely removing the complete mount pads. I left the steering box mount.
I believe I can get a better fit by doing this. This started out as a 68 small block frame.
I will likely use poly inserts in the engine brackets.
 

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68hemidart post a picture as you progress on yours. We all luv pictures.
Here is the first spool frame I modified. I think it could have fit better.I built it to measurements I found at big block dart website 10 or 15 years ago. The second is a frame I modified for a Hemi. Sorry about the not so good pictures these were done some time ago and in storage.
 

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I will post pics here of the car and the k-frame and all the rest of the build once I get started maybe about a month from now. I've been collecting parts for this build for almost 20 yrs and now it's time to do it can't wait :) I also want study the Factory Big Block K and see how hard it would be to reproduce it from a stripped down K-frame like the one in your pic above. I know that finding a 73-up spool mount K is getting pretty hard to do, let alone the BB spool mounts in order to build the DC. I will keep you guys posted on this maybe if this works out it will offer other owners a better alternative to the conversion mounts. :) Eric
 
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