moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Exhaust fan at the ready. 3 coats of 2K primer. It makes me feel good inside sealing that up. Now i cant wait to unwrap the paper lol. My son was so excited to see it like that in primer.
Started on stripping front fender. Unfortunately our supposed straight fender had a bit of plastic in it. Its ok, i'm an artist w bondo. Looks like they beat it out pretty close to where it needs to be. All i need is my longboard and a dream. I need to pull the fender off however. Theres some cracks i need to weld up, and the back edge where it meets the door needs a bit of tweaking. After this one is done and primered, i am thinking cowl and A pillars are next.
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I concidered complete rust removal, then beating the dent out of the panel, and applying body filler, however it was soooo thin with what was left that my fear would be that it would end up too weak. However with this repair, its back to original thickness and strength, and only a skim coat of filler will be needed to get it perfectly level.Cool build I'm following along! (I know I'm 5 years late haha)
I cant wait to see your wife's face when she sees the finished product. I bet she regrets that Facebook post Haha.
You did alot more work on that quarter than in would have I would have neutralized the rust and bonded the pitting! Nice work cant wait to see more!!
Yea I agree you did it the right way. I would have done it the easy way. Lol your welding skills and body skills are a million times better than mine too!!I concidered complete rust removal, then beating the dent out of the panel, and applying body filler, however it was soooo thin with what was left that my fear would be that it would end up too weak. However with this repair, its back to original thickness and strenght, and only a skim coat of filler will be needed to get it perfectly level.
I concidered complete rust removal, then beating the dent out of the panel, and applying body filler, however it was soooo thin with what was left that my fear would be that it would end up too weak. However with this repair, its back to original thickness and strenght, and only a skim coat of filler will be needed to get it perfectly level.
I am detailing repairs as i go in order to help others who may not have the skills that i do. Where i work, i run a sheetmetal shop, as well as train people up to do aviation sheetmetal for the company i work for. In a lot of ways aviation sheetmetal differs from this. Such as rivets, rivet spacing, aluminum, and stainless steel sheet being used come into play instead of plain carbon steel sheet, a welder, spot welding, then hiding the repair with body filler. However the fabrication of repair pieces is quite similar in both. Replacing floor pans, and quarter skins is similar too.Yea I agree you did it the right way. I would have done it the easy way. Lol your welding skills and body skills are a million times better than mine too!!
I am detailing repairs as i go in order to help others who may not have the skills that i do. Where i work, i run a sheetmetal shop, as well as train people up to do aviation sheetmetal for the company i work for. In a lot of ways aviation sheetmetal differs from this. Such as rivets, rivet spacing, aluminum, and stainless steel sheet being used come into play instead of plain carbon steel sheet, a welder, spot welding, then hiding the repair with body filler. However the fabrication of repair pieces is quite similar in both. Replacing floor pans, and quarter skins is similar too.
Preparation is key to a solid long lasting job. If you can solder wire or sweat fit copper pipe, you can wire weld. The key to welding thin sheet steel like this is to NOT get in a hurry. A patch this size will take me about 2 hours to weld in fully. A quarter panel half skin with a non stock seam across the top typically will take me an 8 hour day to fit, ensure panel gaps are correct, and hang in place. It will then typically take 8 hours then to fully seam weld it.
I will space the tack welds about 1 inch apart all the way around then let it cool. All the while checking with a straightege across both pieces that the panels are flat and even with one another. Then place tack welds 1 inch apart centered in between the first tacks all the way around while again checking to maintain flatness between panels and letting the metal cool. Every time you go around the patch you check this. High spots you carefully knock level with the pick side of a body hammer, or use a sharpened screwdriver and a hammer to carefully bump the high spots down.
The keys to not warping the **** out of it are quick tack welds, spacing, not getting it too hot in one spot, letting things cool down. I also use a small 1/4" thick aluminum plate i hold underneath pressed against the seam where i am welding if i can get to it, as well as a copper spoon looking thing with a handle. These 2 items act as heat sinks to help by drawing the heat and help hold the liquid metal in place where its being tacked in. Steel welding wont stick to either of them.
Also cover up any glass and trim with a heavy welders blanket, and leave it covered for the grinding process afterwards, or remove the glass or trim if possible. Orange and red hot sparks from welding and grinding will embed themselves in metal trim and in glass, and ruin it.
Shes long forgotten the fakebook post. My son is gonna have something cool though.Cool build I'm following along! (I know I'm 5 years late haha)
I cant wait to see your wife's face when she sees the finished product. I bet she regrets that Facebook post Haha.
You did alot more work on that quarter than in would have I would have neutralized the rust and bonded the pitting! Nice work cant wait to see more!!
Any reason not to TIG weld?I am detailing repairs as i go in order to help others who may not have the skills that i do. Where i work, i run a sheetmetal shop, as well as train people up to do aviation sheetmetal for the company i work for. In a lot of ways aviation sheetmetal differs from this. Such as rivets, rivet spacing, aluminum, and stainless steel sheet being used come into play instead of plain carbon steel sheet, a welder, spot welding, then hiding the repair with body filler. However the fabrication of repair pieces is quite similar in both. Replacing floor pans, and quarter skins is similar too.
Preparation is key to a solid long lasting job. If you can solder wire or sweat fit copper pipe, you can wire weld. The key to welding thin sheet steel like this is to NOT get in a hurry. A patch this size will take me about 2 hours to weld in fully. A quarter panel half skin with a non stock seam across the top typically will take me an 8 hour day to fit, ensure panel gaps are correct, and hang in place. It will then typically take 8 hours then to fully seam weld it.
I will space the tack welds about 1 inch apart all the way around then let it cool. All the while checking with a straightege across both pieces that the panels are flat and even with one another. Then place tack welds 1 inch apart centered in between the first tacks all the way around while again checking to maintain flatness between panels and letting the metal cool. Every time you go around the patch you check this. High spots you carefully knock level with the pick side of a body hammer, or use a sharpened screwdriver and a hammer to carefully bump the high spots down.
The keys to not warping the **** out of it are quick tack welds, spacing, not getting it too hot in one spot, letting things cool down. I also use a small 1/4" thick aluminum plate i hold underneath pressed against the seam where i am welding if i can get to it, as well as a copper spoon looking thing with a handle. These 2 items act as heat sinks to help by drawing the heat and help hold the liquid metal in place where its being tacked in. Steel welding wont stick to either of them.
Also cover up any glass and trim with a heavy welders blanket, and leave it covered for the grinding process afterwards, or remove the glass or trim if possible. Orange and red hot sparks from welding and grinding will embed themselves in metal trim and in glass, and ruin it.
I love seeing Patrick working with you, awesome father/son time.You can see how well the evaporust gel worked on the rust in the quarter to dutchman seam. We are sanding the quarter down only about 4 inches from the top edge and door opening since its gonna get cut off and a new half quarter will get seamed in. Little hands work well in tight spots. LOL !! Still got to finish a little sanding on the C pillar, and work the A pillar. I need to do some evaporust gel on some of the pitted spots in the quarter, and a little bodywork, then its time for some more 2K primer.
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That's an awesome amount of work Matt. I'm glad Patrick is showing you how to get things done, lol. I actually looked at mine for almost 5 minutes yesterday-awesome progress too, huh?Heres where i stopped tonight. A lot of work for 1 day. Pretty far i think for only being at it for 19 days.
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