67/68/69 cuda dilemma

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He jumps in and helps out almost every time i am out there. I tell him do as much as you can, and when your tired its ok to tell me. He is only 6 after all. I would spend all day out there. Stripping paint and rusty ****, and getting it somewhst smooth and in primer is time consuming hard work thats overwhelming for even some adults let alone a 6 year old, so i understand that. You will get there too Dan. This project was 4 years in the making. 4 years of waiting until i had the pieces, the time, and the space to work on it. Big thing being the time. Thank God my friend was willing to let me store it under a carport at his place in full view of interstate 20, and endure almost daily enquiries about selling it. Now he has a barn fresh 68 chevelle 2 door hardtop that i would equally love to have sitting my shop. Its sitting in the same spot my cuda was, in full view of i-20. He will have to fend off almost daily enquiries about its sale now too lol.

I have a full shop now. My 67, the 69, and a 1988 daytona shelby turbo ll t top car stuffed in the corner with boxes of sheetmetal piled on it. As a side note, he loves the "manual crank windows" LoL!! I am going to teach him that simple and no wires or switches is sometimes better. He says he wants to fix airplanes like me when he grows up. Easy enough, we have an aviation mtx mechanic school right on the airport. If he wants to do that when he is older, i can prob get him a job where i work.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
He jumps in and helps out almost every time i am out there. I tell him do as much as you can, and when your tired its ok to tell me. He is only 6 after all. I would spend all day out there. Stripping paint and rusty ****, and getting it somewhst smooth and in primer is time consuming hard work thats overwhelming for even some adults let alone a 6 year old, so i understand that. You will get there too Dan. This project was 4 years in the making. 4 years of waiting until i had the pieces, the time, and the space to work on it. Big thing being the time. Thank God my friend was willing to let me store it under a carport at his place in full view of interstate 20, and endure almost daily enquiries about selling it. Now he has a barn fresh 68 chevelle 2 door hardtop that i would equally love to have sitting my shop. Its sitting in the same spot my cuda was, in full view of i-20. He will have to fend off almost daily enquiries about its sale now too lol.

I have a full shop now. My 67, the 69, and a 1988 daytona shelby turbo ll t top car stuffed in the corner with boxes of sheetmetal piled on it. As a side note, he loves the "manual crank windows" LoL!! I am going to teach him that simple and no wires or switches is sometimes better. He says he wants to fix airplanes like me when he grows up. Easy enough, we have an aviation mtx mechanic school right on the airport. If he wants to do that when he is older, i can prob get him a job where i work.
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I think it's cool that he wants to do the work. A lot of young boys want to spend time being with their dads and learning what they do. Didn't work out that well for me dad and me or my son and me, but each situation is different. At 6, you're doing the right thing, let him work and when he gets tired, let him rest. He'll set a pace and when needs to recharge, nap time or other activities any 6 year old would enjoy.

Believe it or not the 5 minutes I spent was checking that bezel on the right fender to see how it fit, not bad at all. I then checked the left fender and it was a bigger hole than the left. Both will be easy fixes, so I am glad I didn't buy any fenders. I still need to check the headlight buckets. Also really need to work on cleaning out my garage. So what's the current weather forecast for Thursday thru Sunday-at least 40% chance of rain each day. At this rate I should just get a real barracuda fish and let it swim around my yard, lol.

The Daytona Shelbys were cool cars IMHO. I wonder how one would do against my son's '13 Dart Mopar Edition (1 of 500). I'll have to check that sometime what the E.T.'s were for each.
 
The Shelby Z i have, i built a 300 HP 8 valve 4 cylinder engine for. Its a little bad ***. Lots of good parts and machining. Fully forged bottom end, o ringed block etc. I pickled it with mercury marine oil and it sits on its storage stand. One day i will build the shelby and test it out.

New update. I used a cutoff wheel like a grinder to carefully clean out all the old cracked seam sealer filler in the drivers side drip rail gutter. I filled it with evaporust gel and covered it with plastic. I will be brushing 2k primer in the rain gutter channel when its all cleaned out to pitted bare metal then i will tape it off and brush on some out of date expired aircraft seam sealer i have. Not good for aircraft past expiration date, perfectly fine for automotive lol. This stuff wont shrink or crack, and is paintable. Meets Mil Spec 81733 for corrosion resistance and adhesion.

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moparmat2000 said:
The Shelby Z i have, i built a 300 HP 8 valve 4 cylinder engine for. Its a little bad ***. Lots of good parts and machining. Fully forged bottom end, o ringed block etc. I pickled it with mercury marine oil and it sits on it storage stand. One day i will build the shelby and test it out.

New update. I used a cutoff wheel like a grinder to carefully clean out all the old cracked seam sealer filler in the drivers side drip rail gutter. I filled it with evaporust gel and covered it with plastic. I will be brushing 2k primer in the rain gutter channel when its all cleaned out to pitted bare metal then i will tape it off and brush in aircraft seam sealer. This stuff wont shrink or crack, and is paintable. Meets Mil Spec 81733 for corrosion resistance and adhesion.

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awesome on both the Z and the continued success on the cuda.

Let me know when the Z is ready, I wanna be on that test drive
 
Had some mixed fluid resistant epoxy primer at work that was nearing the end of its pot life. It was use it or dump it in the chemical drum. A little MEK to thin it out just a little to spraying consistency as it was thickening up.

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After first treatment of evaporust gel on A pillar. Looks good. Applied more and covered it back up w plastic. Will check it again tomorrow. Rest of the drip rail looks good and almost rust free, scraped and applied more.

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Evaporust gel completely ate away the rust on second treatment. Took awhile to scrape and clean everything. Decided to sand the A pillar and dress up the corners. There is one rust through hole about 1/8" diameter in the rain gutter. I will weld that up and grind it down tomorrow evening. I taped off and brush applied epoxy primer in the gutter area because i could get it in there better and thicker this way than with a spray gun. When its dry i will tape it off again for the out of date aircraft seam sealer. I plan on priming over the seam sealer.

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Had one rust thru hole on the drip rail gutter. I used a welding spoon underneath. Zapped it up, ground it down, and spot primed.

Now you see me, now you dont !!

"Liquid fart" AKA expired aircraft sealant will be next. LoL

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Spot primer dry, time for expired aircraft sealant AKA liquid fart!!. CS3204 A 1/2 . This is a liquidy brushable flowable rubberized sealant. I used a cut down acid brush to get it into all the spots where the primer was even up on the sides of the drip rail to seal it in. It flows out well and brush strokes disappear as it dries. It is paintable and doesnt shrink or crack. Contains sulfates for corrosion resistance. You always remove the tape masking while its wet.

This stuff will outlast my sons lifetime as well, and he's only 6.

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Figured i would start on the cowl, and scrape the windshield opening out. Laquer thinner on a steel wire brush gets all the black goopy sealant out, follow with a clean paper towel with laquer thinner on it and viola, clean and ready some corrosion grinding and primer.

I did go and buy some naval jelly at walmart to try on the surface rust on the cowl. Wife looked at me funny when i mentioned i needed that. I told her you dont want to put this **** in your belly button lol. Anyways i covered it with plastic and it worked very similar to the evaporust turning the oxide black under the plastic, along with a periodic scraping and reapplication. Being it seems to be better on horizontal flat surfaces and is a bit cheaper price wise i will be using naval jelly on the roof, cowl, and decklid.

As an aside, we got a Northern Tool in our town. Like a higher quality China freight, they had a nice sandblaster setup w a pipe you stick in a bucket of sand. I will prob pick this up along with a sandblaster hood. This will be ideal for doing the engine compartment.

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I did evict some mice from the cowl. They were long gone, but the nest remained. Had to dig it out, and use an air blower to clean out the cowl. Nasty little fuckers.
 
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No A/C i'm either tough, stubborn, or stupid, or a combination of all 3. I do have a 5' diameter box fan to move air though. I did buy a thermometer to keep out in the shop. I guess i wanted to see how hot it was with all this sweat pouring out of me as i'm working lol. Heading across the cowl.

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This is my stopping point for the night. Not sure what was worse. Bending the vent fins straight and using a pick with a hook to pull up the ones that were bent down to make them all level, or sanding all the layers of paint off the sides of the fins. Only about 1/4 of the way through with that. Pink **** is naval jelly.

On a lighter note a cool front came thru about 7pm. Temps are now 75° in the shop. Supposed to be in the 70s tomorrow. I'm really thinking about having glaucoma of the butthole tomorrow. (I cant see my *** going to work). Will more than likely go though. Need to save my vacation for when i really need it.

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moparmat2000 said:
This is my stopping point for the night. Not sure what was worse. Bending the vent fins straight and using a pick with a hook to pull up the ones that were bent down to make them all level, or sanding all the layers of paint off the sides of the fins. Only about 1/4 of the way through with that. Pink **** is naval jelly.

On a lighter note a cool front came thru about 7pm. Temps are now 75° in the shop. Supposed to be in the 70s tomorrow. I'm really thinking about having glaucoma of the butthole tomorrow. (I cant see my *** going to work). Will more than likely go though. Need to save my vacation for when i really need it.

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are you stripping the paint first and then applying the evapo-rust gel?
 
Yes. This way i can take some of the scale off. Theres spots all over this car that are bare with rust, when you strip the paint. Looks like leopard spots everywhere.
 
Yes, clean it off w wire brush and TSP and water mixture, then dry with a paper towel. Look it over, and reapply if needed. Drivers door on cuda i posted my results with it. Had to reapply 4 times to eat the rust off. Personally i am thinking the naval jelly does an exellent job as well, just not thick enough for sticking to vertical surfaces. Both products turn crusty black where they have drawn the rust out. Thats your cue to scrape it off, inspect, and reapply. Look closely for black in the bottoms of the pits, if present, then you aint done yet lol
 
moparmat2000 said:
Yes, clean it off w wire brush and TSP and water mixture, then dry with a paper towel. Look it over, and reapply if needed. Drivers door on cuda i posted my results with it. Had to reapply 4 times to eat the rust off. Personally i am thinking the naval jelly does an exellent job as well, just not thick enough for sticking to vertical surfaces. Both products turn crusty black where they have drawn the rust out. Thats your cue to scrape it off, inspect, and reapply. Look closely for black in the bottoms of the pits, if present, then you aint done yet lol
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thanks, I'll give it a try. been trying to figure out how to strip the rust best off the inside of the quarter inner supports
 
Rust on cowl skin is all gone. Clean steel with some pitting spots. Wiped it down with TSP and water mixture, scrubbed the last of the naval jelly off, and neutralized it. Then scuffed it all down with 80 grit on a DA sander. Have to do a bit of bodywork to it. Weld fill a few holes from what was a cowl mounted gage panel. Clean off the paint from the rest of the cowl inlet fins. Then it will be time to primer it. I figured i would clean up and primer the windshield opening all the way around while i was at it as well. Need to fix a few issues where the lead fill is in the lower corners of the windshield opening as well.

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Looking nice! Never could figure out why I have patience for that kind of stuff working on a boat or preping and working with wood projects but not when doing bodywork on vehicles.
 
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