67/68/69 cuda dilemma

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Son wants to start helping at age 6. Well it will be his car with sweat equity, so i think i am gonna pick him up a respirator, and an electric DA sander. This way we both can get her stripped to bare metal and get started making her at least look like a decent lady again. Glad that DartOS sold me this one for the price of the doors. Ya sure it was half stripped, and all the hard to find parts were gone, but they just dont make em anymore, and the pieces just seemed to come together over the last few years since i got it to get it into a whole car again.
 
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Couldent stand the bent in left side of the header panel, plus i need to get it all bolted together. Stud puller along with hammer and dolley. Got it pretty close. Will still need a skim coat of filler. But for now its 100 times better than what it was, and bolted to the fender.

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Got a small bottle of evaporust gel. Gonna see how this will work on that awful looking drivers door. Going to brush it on, and cover with plastic to keep it wet. I will post pix of results and post it here
 
Well heres the test subject. I put a cut up plastic ziplock bag over it and rubbed the bubbles out with my finger leaving a fair amount of it under the plastic. This $9.99 tiny bottle of evaporust gel, looks like yellow snot, and has about the same consistency. I used an acid brush to brush it on evenly and cover with the plastic to prevent it from drying out. It didnt take much of it to cover the area i brushed. So this stuff may go the distance materialswise on fair sized jobs. I did this about 7:15pm. It says to clean it off in 2 hours. I plan on checking on it around 9:15 and see how it looks. I may try a wire brush on it to see how much rust comes off. And if i need to reapply it, and let it sit overnight. I have a TSP and water solution ready for a rinse. I may do another spot like this on the door with naval jelly and see how that goes. Maybe compare the results.

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BTW i bought a number of years ago a pair of Knipex geared jaw plyers. These things are expensive. The pair i bought was about $60. They are a bit more now. The cool thing is the jaws are not serrated so they wont mar the metal, and are geared to clamp down linear like a small hand held vise. This is a great auto body tool for straightening bent flanges and other stuff. .

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2 hours came and went. I got out there , and peeled the plastic off. Took a wire brush to it, then rinsed it off using water soaked paper towels, then blotted it dry. The product does what it says it does. It will remove rust, but slowly. And honestly, thats ok. This means its strong enough to work, and mild enough to not harm the base steel. I think the plastic helps keep it from wanting to dry out. The corrosion on this door is pretty deep, so i reapplied some more, covered it with plastic, and will check progress tomorrow morning. I had one other spot forward of this that i carefully ground off the surface scale yesterday, and what was left was small pitting with corrosion in it. So i put a bit of evaporust on it and covered it with plastic. Will see what it does about the pitting. This is the first time i have honestly messed with this product. I seem to be getting good but slow results with it.

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This mornings pix. This was after treatment #2 was left on all night with plastic covering it. This compares it to the original corrosion, and first treatment. The deep areas are still there but getting smaller. The product works great, but requires patience. The plastic sheeting against it kept it wet all night so it can work. It does seem to use itself up and dry out over the heavier rust deposits even when covered requiring multiple applications. A small wire brush and clean rinse water along with drying it off afterwards seems to be all the cleanup required, along with covering it up with primer. I applied treatment #3 this morning and covered it up with plastic again. I will check it today when i get off work. The fact that it is non toxic, biodegradeable is great too. You notice it is working under the cheap brown primer that was sprayed on. But it seems only where the rust was. This is probably because the rust is extending a bit further under the rattlecan primer but is so slight it cant be seen.

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Seems like a lot of "wax on, wax off". Why don't you come get my media/soda blaster? Then wipe it down with POR 15 Metal-Ready.
Then epoxy prime.

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That would be great, unfortunately dealing with the mess, and my compressor not having near enough volume to run one of these for a length of time makes it a no go. Planned on working and priming 1 panel at a time anyways. This stuff also cleans out all the way to the bottom of a rust pit completely removing the rust. A good rinse with water and TSP mixture and it wont start to rust for weeks. Besides my son is only 6. Attention span is short. We work on it a little bit, and go do other things. As long as visible progress is there its cool. The nose has paint on everything, it will be an easy strip n prime. Quarters, rear valance, and dutchman are getting replaced. So i will just scuff and put a thin primer coat on those to make it all one color for now.
 
Also, i dont have a problem putting the evaporust on it late in the evening, then going to sleep for the night, then cleaning it off in the morning before work, reapplying it if need be, and then going off to work. If I am either sleeping or at work while its doing its job its not like i am there impatiently waiting for it to do its thing. Also i am thinking by showing this product on my build thread, and how to use it to maximize its efficency w plastic sheet, i may be able to help others with similar issues that dont have access to gee whiz stuff like pressure pot blasters etc.
 
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So my son wanted to pose with his car. As i was saying, we will be doing things a little at a time since a kid his age has an attention span of maybe an hour tops, and dont want to burn him out.

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A buddy of mine thought he knew this car when it was being raced in the Dallas Ft Worth area back in the late 1980s early 1990s. He asked if it had the remains of the Warner Bros. Tasmanian Devil painted on the rear quarters. I was able to verify that yes, Taz is still on there. You can barely see him, but he is there but only on the RH side since the LH side was sanded down. I think as we build this car, i may see if my son would be up for a small Taz decal or 2 strategically placed on the car to honor its past racing history
 
Tasmanian was campaigned for several years around the DFW area. From what I found out it was pretty competitive. As I told you, the previous owner had committed suicide. His father let it sit at his trucking business for years before I bought it. Maybe more history than I'm aware of.
 
That would be cool with the Taz stickers, at age 13 there is a race setup through the IHRA where the kids can race the quarter mile with the parent in the passenger seat. Parent has to drive in the pits etc. But that is the goal I have with my oldest and his Coronet.
 
I can't think of a better way to get kids off a tablet and into something that will follow them for life!
 
I scrubbed the evaporust with a wire brush, TSP and water mixture, rinsed it off and viola i had clean pitted metal. Took a magnifying glass and looked at the pits close up. Clean all the way to the bottom. So i ran my DA over it, stripped the paint stripes off, then wiped it down with a paper towel wet with TSP and water. This will help prevent flash rust until it can be primered. I am also trying something different. I ran my DA over some other surface rust spots to knock the heavy scale off first, then applied some evaporust with plastic over it. This should make it work faster with maybe only 1 or 2 applications needed. I like this stuff because i have done small parts sandblasting, and believe me, if you dont get all the corrosion out of a rust pit, it will continue to corrode. This stuff keeps eating away until it hits clean metal, then it stops. Rust never sleeps is a true statement.

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I got an out of date PPG light grey primer kit from work. Comes as one gallon of base, one gallon of activator. 1 to 1 mix ratio. Makes 2 gallons of material. More than enough to spray this car body. Its a commercial aircraft primer coating. States its corrosion inhibiting. When stuff like this hits its expiration date its no longer concidered good to use on aircraft. If not used up it has to be destroyed, unless somebody wants to use it on their home project as it lessens the amount of **** in the chemical waste stream the company has to pay to get rid of.

Even though its out of date, theres nothing wrong with it mind you, just cannot be used for aircraft after the expiration date. I am going to run the grey base gallon up to work and put it on the paint shaker machine for about 30 minutes. I will research its part number as well. See if its got good adhesion for spraying on bare automotive steel. If so, its going on.

I bought my son that electric orbital sander from china freight i was talking about. I will outfit him w a respirator as well. I figure if it lasts long enough to sand the car down then ***** itself then it was worth the money. We are going to try to get the drivers door ready to primer by sunday afternoon. Then maybe i will spray it monday afternoon. I want him to see a light at the end of the tunnel. This is why we are doing a panel at a time. Easier to see results with one panel repaired, feeling smooth, and in fresh primer coat.
 
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He jumped right in and was sanding like a pro in no time. I limited it to about an hour and a half. Then we cleaned up, drank a soda each and went inside.

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Hey. I'll give your money back if you want?
I may of had a gold mine and didn't realize it after watching a '69 sell at Mecum for $440,000.
 
Sorry brother no deal LoL. It must have been one of those Buyit Jackman car auctions where everybodys got more money than common sense. My son cant stop talking about his cuda, and working on it. So i guess its a done deal lol
 
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