DallasMan2000
Well-Known Member
Just found this wiring diagram for the car.
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67 Barracuda Ignition Issue
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
As I attempted to elude in my post, taking random readings does you no help, and may just confuse us. Try to picture this:
The one side of the ballast is exactly like breaker points, That is, key "run," through the ballast, to coil + through the coil and to ground through the breaker points or in this case through the ECU box. The ECU is supposed to draw current when the key is on, so you want "same as battery at the two ballast connections which are jumpered together, there, on one end.
You want about 6-10 at coil + which shows the coil is drawing current
.6 at the coil NEG seems low. Most boxes only pull the coil NEG to about 1--2 volts. .6 might indicate low power TO the ballast and coil. Again, you should have close to battery at the key side of the ballast
The remaining side of the ballast IS LIKELY NOT USED. This is because ONLY the original 5 pin boxes needed a 4 pin resistor. If your box is a 4 pin (and may have 5 physical pins, ) then the "box" side of the resistor will measure same on both ends---about battery voltage with key on.
DallasMan2000
Well-Known Member
From the wiring diagram, it looks like the upper right pin of the ballast (with blue and brown wire both connected) has the brown wire going back to “key start” in the ignition and the blue wire goes directly to the positive side of the coil. Does this sound correct to you?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Yes. Situated just like the wiring diagram below it. The "key" is the key in the ballast ceramic. The "U" cutout at the bottom
Crumple that up and use it to start a Bar-B
Seriously. Much better diagrams that will answer your question about which cuircuit and wire goes to which cavity in a connector.
The Valiant diagram in '67 Plymouth Service Manual is close to the Barracuda. The Barracuda diagram is in a supplement for '67.*
It's not perfect, not as good as '68 and '69, but better than aftermarket diagrams like the one above.
Also one of the forum members has made layered pdf of the Factroy 67, 68 and 69 diagrams.
Colored schematics 67 barracuda
Hi all wondering if anyone has or has seen colored schematic for 67 barracuda. I found one for 69 but can't find 67. I checked mymopar.com already. Thanks Steve
www.forabodiesonly.com
To make the diagrams useful, I follow the advice of Chrysler Tech and traced and redrew the circuits of interest.
Since I have '67 Barracuda, here are the main power feeds and ignition and start.
*Link to supplement
Getting a similar Shop Manual
Hello all again. Coming at you guys with another questionably dumb question. So I have a 67 barracuda and I'm wanting the (you should definitely have this) shop manual for it. However, the 1967 shop manual lists several non-barracuda cars for 67, and a barracuda under the 1966 section (unsure...
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battery voltage at the connectors only indicates dead end, or no current flowing through resistance before the test point.
it's not a four pole connector. Someone indicated above, its 2 resistors, each with a different funtion. The 0.5 Ohm resistor should be the one connecting to the coil. it performs a similar function to the original .6-.7 ohm resistor used with the original ignition.
The second resistor should measure 5 ohms, and is not needed except with original 1970s factory ECUs.
Suggests that no current was flowing through, and no voltage is available in run.
Ok. This test seems a litle random but if the battery is also at 10.5 Volts with the key in Start, that is correct.
With engine not running, that is correct.
I agree with Bewey, it strongly suggests a break in the Igntion start circuit. In particular between the poiunt of measurement and the connector you measured 10.5 at with key in start.
Coil works. Ignition works when provided power.
Again suggesting a break or very high resistance in the ignition start circuit.
See previous post.
My suggestion is to undo the prettly looking wiring and redo the connections. At the same time, go to a single .5 to .6 ohm resistor in the factory location where its protected. Also keeps you from burning your hand on it.
So here's the concept.
Key in Start, power flows from the battery through the J3 wire to the ballast. A little curent flows through the 1/2 ohm resistor to the ECU and some flows through the coil. The ECU controls the breaking the coils ground connection based on the distrbutor signal.
Because the battery voltage is drawn down by the starter, coil gets system power (bypassing the resistor).
Engine running, power flows through the start switch to the J2 wire. Coil gets power through the resistor rather than draw power at full system voltage (14 V from the alternator). The coil is designed to run at less than 12 Volts.
With any recent ECU, 1980s and newer, pretty much only need the 4 pin setup)
So for your '67, all that is needed is
the appropriate ring terminal on the ECU wire connecting to coil negative.
A female 1/4" spade connector on the ECU power wire so it can attach to a piggyback on the J2 connection at the resisitor.
There's other ways to do it as well, but that's a simple one.
On a diagram it looks like this
Piggyback looks like this
Key in Start, power flows from the battery through the J3 wire to the ballast. A little curent flows through the 1/2 ohm resistor to the ECU and some flows through the coil. The ECU controls the breaking the coils ground connection based on the distrbutor signal.
Because the battery voltage is drawn down by the starter, coil gets system power (bypassing the resistor).
Engine running, power flows through the start switch to the J2 wire. Coil gets power through the resistor rather than draw power at full system voltage (14 V from the alternator). The coil is designed to run at less than 12 Volts.
With any recent ECU, 1980s and newer, pretty much only need the 4 pin setup)
So for your '67, all that is needed is
the appropriate ring terminal on the ECU wire connecting to coil negative.
A female 1/4" spade connector on the ECU power wire so it can attach to a piggyback on the J2 connection at the resisitor.
There's other ways to do it as well, but that's a simple one.
On a diagram it looks like this
Piggyback looks like this
In the middle connector, that's probabl position J, which in '67 was for the signal wire if it came with the optional tachometer.
Right connector IIRC should be the wiper motor, and the empty positons are for A/C and backup lamp switch if the car had manual transmission.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
If its not the run and start on this picture of the Bulkhead connector then something is not working as that is a lot of corrosion
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Those should be blank, its the wiper connector.
Wiper Motor Interchange List with part numbers/years/body styles...
1970dartcustom submitted a new Article: Wiper motor interchange list with part numbers/years/body styles... Part#/Stamp# Year-Yr Body Speed Remarks 2525629 1964-66 A VARIABLE 2525270 1964-65 B SINGLE 2580915 1967 B VARIABLE 2584975 1965 C VARIABLE 2586988 1966-67 C 2/3 SPEED 2587697 1968...
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Dave_J
Well-Known Member
His Bulkhead connector has the left two female pins missing. The right top looks distorted like heat compaired to all the other pins. The lower bottom looks damaged too.Those should be blank, its the wiper connector.
View attachment 1716142671
Wiper Motor Interchange List with part numbers/years/body styles...
1970dartcustom submitted a new Article: Wiper motor interchange list with part numbers/years/body styles... Part#/Stamp# Year-Yr Body Speed Remarks 2525629 1964-66 A VARIABLE 2525270 1964-65 B SINGLE 2580915 1967 B VARIABLE 2584975 1965 C VARIABLE 2586988 1966-67 C 2/3 SPEED 2587697 1968...
DallasMan2000
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone for your replies. I replaced the J2 wire and the run voltage at the coil positive is just over 6 volts. The start voltage comes in at 10.7 volts. Car starts and runs with this set-up. I tried fishing the old J2 wire out of the wiring harness by peeling back the harness casing slowly and carefully. Starting at the coil positive pulled out the wire and got back behind the distributor and then the wire went into an even bigger clump of encased wires. The wire looked fine up to that point. Rather than digging the old J2 wire out any further, I coiled it up and taped it up there. My new J2 wire is spliced in about 6 inches from the ballast and is taped up to the harness along the firewall and back around to the coil positive. I have run the engine both hot and cold for over an hour at a time with no further issues. Any issue with just leaving the old J2 wire in the harness? I have to say the last 24” of the old J2 wire buried in the harness has my curiosity up. The wiring harness is fairly new and there is no visible damage that I have observed. So it seems like there is a bad splice (unlikely) stuck in there somewhere, or the wire got damaged (heat maybe) and failed somewhere in the harness.
I would cut the wire personally and re-tape what you opened since it is new harness. You can find the right tape on e bay. Glad you found something! Had a feeling it was power as we discussed.
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