moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Trunk floor was solid enough except for the spare tire well, so i cut and welded in a replacement.
67 barracuda notchback restoration
- Thread starter moparmat2000
- Start date
-
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
So at the time i was putting in my new spare tire well, nobody offered a spare tire mounting bracket. At this time AMD offered it only if you bought the whole trunk floor. I also decided at this point i wanted the 68 up fuel tank mounting straps that use this bracket to also hold the gas tank. Since the bracket wasnt offered seperately at that time (2009 time frame) i had to make my own bracket which included the angle brackets that slot thru the spare tire well and hold the gas tank. A friend of mine gave me a rotted one out of a 74 duster he was converting to a circle track car so i could use it for a template. Damn thing took me about 8 hours to fabricate. Then a year or so later AMD decides to offer it seperately for about $21.00 had i known that i would just have waited. But you just never know what will become available and when with repop parts on these cars.
Last edited:
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
So i am going to jump around a bit. Putting these next photos out of chronological order. I planned on welding up the underside as well as making my own torque boxing plates front and rear out of 1/8" plate. A fabo member sent me cardstock templates to copy the US car tool ones. Theirs are a work of art, however i wanted a set without slots for a parking brake cable since i solved that issue, and i am more of a DIY kind of person, and a little bucks down at the time. I prefer to fabricate my own parts if i can.
I also needed to make a rotisserie. I used some scrap square tubing, and trampoline tubing from a trampoline we had for about 4 months. Then it went airborne like a flying saucer in a rain storm. First it slammed into my shop messing up the door and wall sheetmetal, then slammed into the house, before achieving liftoff and skidding across my roof, hitting my fence in my side yard and finally flopping over the fence and smashing in my next door neighbors window. Well i got my insurance to hook up my neighbor, i got everything else fixed and had a stack of bent steel tubing behind the shop so i made a "rocking rotisserie".
As a funny side note 3 months after the "saucer crash landing" in my neighbors window my wife says. The kids loved this thing lets get another. I looked at her and i think i remember saying, "What are you anyways, a ******* nut ?!?" , "what the hell is wrong with you !!" And "NO MORE TRAMPOLINES!!!"
Without any further introduction i give you the rocking rotisserie, and the underside of the Cuda ready for some welding, scraping and eventually its first coat of grey primer. 2 of the torque boxes are welded in as you can see 2 of them are just taped and clamped in place.
The subframe connectors are parallel even with the rocker panels. Some angle em in to connect lined up with the front rails. I preferred to make them straight. Inboard side of the connector lines up with the outboard side of the framerail. This still makes them plenty stiff for structural continuity. You can also see the seam sealer covering the non stock seam at the back end of the dart floor pan.
I also needed to make a rotisserie. I used some scrap square tubing, and trampoline tubing from a trampoline we had for about 4 months. Then it went airborne like a flying saucer in a rain storm. First it slammed into my shop messing up the door and wall sheetmetal, then slammed into the house, before achieving liftoff and skidding across my roof, hitting my fence in my side yard and finally flopping over the fence and smashing in my next door neighbors window. Well i got my insurance to hook up my neighbor, i got everything else fixed and had a stack of bent steel tubing behind the shop so i made a "rocking rotisserie".
As a funny side note 3 months after the "saucer crash landing" in my neighbors window my wife says. The kids loved this thing lets get another. I looked at her and i think i remember saying, "What are you anyways, a ******* nut ?!?" , "what the hell is wrong with you !!" And "NO MORE TRAMPOLINES!!!"
Without any further introduction i give you the rocking rotisserie, and the underside of the Cuda ready for some welding, scraping and eventually its first coat of grey primer. 2 of the torque boxes are welded in as you can see 2 of them are just taped and clamped in place.
The subframe connectors are parallel even with the rocker panels. Some angle em in to connect lined up with the front rails. I preferred to make them straight. Inboard side of the connector lines up with the outboard side of the framerail. This still makes them plenty stiff for structural continuity. You can also see the seam sealer covering the non stock seam at the back end of the dart floor pan.
Last edited:
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Dude, that is some hot rodding there-Way to save a notch!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
The bucks down way sometimes is the only way when you have the skills but little cash. When i started this project i looked at what i could make myself, and what i could recycle and reuse. As an aircraft structural sheetmetal mechanic i have access to some cool tools like sheetmetal brakes etc. This makes the fab part a bit easier. I must say though that 1/8" plate was a bit tough to bend in the brake at work, and thats a big industrial tennsmith.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I got a good deal on some goodmark rear quarters and a new goodmark battery tray from a wholesale supplier. I had originally pulled out the left rear quarter with a stud welder/puller, fixed a small amount of rust in the rear bottom of the original quarter, slathered on the bondo, sanded the crap out of it , and primered it. The job came out good actually. However i wasnt really happy having bondo, and patches welded in. But the $250 per side cost for goodmark quarter panels plus shipping off ebay and other sources was cost prohibitive. So i bondoed it figuring i could drive it in primer and put skins on it later.
Then the $311 shipped to my doorstep deal popped up for 2 quarter skins and a needed battery tray so i grabbed it. I was still bucks down at the time but spent the cash figuring it was the best deal i was ever gonna find on these. First pic below is the bondo job on the rear quarter. Eventually i will be cutting it and the other quarter off and welding on the new skins.
I used some heavy duty autobody type masking paper that i taped to the floor so i could scrape and remove the undercoating. I also bought a few industrial sized cans of WD40 to spray down the areas that still had undercoating to make it easier to scrape off. After scraping i wiped the excess undercoating off with some cheap laquer thinner, scuff sanded everything down with a DA sander. Then i sprayed it all with dupont grey automotive sandable laquer primer.
With the underside in grey primer you can easily see the 3/4" holes drilled in the bottom of the subframe connectors for water drainage. As well as 3/4" water drain holes at the bottom aft edges of the front torque box plates. Additionally the subframe connectors fitted in at the back overlap the frame rails and are lap welded to the rail all the way around, with the rear torque boxes overlapping the subframe connectors and rear framerails for additional strength.
Then the $311 shipped to my doorstep deal popped up for 2 quarter skins and a needed battery tray so i grabbed it. I was still bucks down at the time but spent the cash figuring it was the best deal i was ever gonna find on these. First pic below is the bondo job on the rear quarter. Eventually i will be cutting it and the other quarter off and welding on the new skins.
I used some heavy duty autobody type masking paper that i taped to the floor so i could scrape and remove the undercoating. I also bought a few industrial sized cans of WD40 to spray down the areas that still had undercoating to make it easier to scrape off. After scraping i wiped the excess undercoating off with some cheap laquer thinner, scuff sanded everything down with a DA sander. Then i sprayed it all with dupont grey automotive sandable laquer primer.
With the underside in grey primer you can easily see the 3/4" holes drilled in the bottom of the subframe connectors for water drainage. As well as 3/4" water drain holes at the bottom aft edges of the front torque box plates. Additionally the subframe connectors fitted in at the back overlap the frame rails and are lap welded to the rail all the way around, with the rear torque boxes overlapping the subframe connectors and rear framerails for additional strength.
Last edited:
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
At this time i am not sure if i want to just shoot the underside w GM chassis black, and shoot the fender wells with undercoating. Or spray the whole underside with the body color i intend to paint the rest of the car. I guess i can decide that when the big day comes to paint the underside. I still have to bend up some fuel and brake lines to run alongside the subframe connectors while its all in primer.
How mopar should have done it. Premium work.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
One of the other tools i built was a dolley to move the car body around in my shop. I saw the US car tool ones and thought they were a good idea however i built the front part of the dolley for mine to have removable wheeled legs so i could use it to "plug in" the front rotisserie frame. The rear wheeled part i welded the castors and legs to a spare pair of front spring eye hangars and bolted them up. I got lucky enough to get these bassick large diameter castors from work. They were cleaning up and sending a bunch of stuff for scrap metal including and old engine buildup stand. I asked if i could have them. My wish was granted. I grabbed my wrenches and took em off before they loaded the old stand up for scrap. All 4 castors swivel for a zero turning radius in the shop however i welded in removable locks to lock the rear castors straight if i need to roll it and dont want them to swivel. I also added a lift ring to the center of the front frame later so i can lift it up with my engine hoist to roll my engine and trans underneath for installation later on.
Last edited:
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I like to jump around a bit and figured i'd have them ready to go for when they are needed on assembly. Heres the brakes I will be using. 1974 A body disc brake spindles, but 1979 cordoba big brake rotors and big brake calipers, and on the rear 10x2.5" cordoba finned drums.
These are now in storage boxes waiting for final assembly
These are now in storage boxes waiting for final assembly
Last edited:
Do the Cordoba calipers fit the spindles just like that?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Its a direct bolt on. Cordoba 12" rotors slide right on the 74 dart spindles, cordoba caliper mounts bolt right up and so do the calipers. Even brake pads, wheel bearings, dust seals, and brake hardware is all the same part numbers LOL !!
See differences below
Dart calipers are single piston 2.60" diameter
Cordoba calipers are single piston 2.75" diameter
Dart rotors are approx 10.89" diameter
Cordoba rotors are approx slightly under 12" diameter.
The 1979 cordoba is a porky car. Its curb weight is 3,975 lbs. My 67 should come in at about 3,000 lbs. So close to 1,000 lbs lighter. It ought to stop well with these brakes. This one of the reasons i decided against power brakes. The car simply isnt going to need them.
I got M body brakes off a 1984 Chrysler Fifth Avenue for my sons 69 cuda. M body uses same rotor PN# as a 74 dart but uses the bigger calipers off the cordoba. I grabbed bigger rotors and the taller caliper brackets at the junkyard off a 1978 dodge magnum for his car.
Anders if you ever want to go up to the bigger bolt pattern for more wheel choice this is the way to go in the front. I'd recommend the M body stuff and tubular upper arms with the large pin K772 ball joint. For the rear use a ford explorer rear. It has the same bolt pattern as the M body
See differences below
Dart calipers are single piston 2.60" diameter
Cordoba calipers are single piston 2.75" diameter
Dart rotors are approx 10.89" diameter
Cordoba rotors are approx slightly under 12" diameter.
The 1979 cordoba is a porky car. Its curb weight is 3,975 lbs. My 67 should come in at about 3,000 lbs. So close to 1,000 lbs lighter. It ought to stop well with these brakes. This one of the reasons i decided against power brakes. The car simply isnt going to need them.
I got M body brakes off a 1984 Chrysler Fifth Avenue for my sons 69 cuda. M body uses same rotor PN# as a 74 dart but uses the bigger calipers off the cordoba. I grabbed bigger rotors and the taller caliper brackets at the junkyard off a 1978 dodge magnum for his car.
Anders if you ever want to go up to the bigger bolt pattern for more wheel choice this is the way to go in the front. I'd recommend the M body stuff and tubular upper arms with the large pin K772 ball joint. For the rear use a ford explorer rear. It has the same bolt pattern as the M body
Last edited:
Thanks! We'll see what happens down the line. I'm going with my K-H brakes for now. They look way cool. 
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yep the 4 pot calipers do look really cool. I went with the larger bolt pattern single pot ones because its what i have, and had access to in the junkyard. Also it allows a bigger rim selection as its the same as a ford pattern and all other mopars. Only the A body had the small 4" pattern
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
So i got this manual shift 3 on the tree column and a manual steering box. I am intending to go power steering 4 on the floor. I lucked out as there is a 67 barracuda coupe in my local boneyard at the time thats pretty picked over but the steering column is there. Automatic with column shift and power steering. I figure i can make these 2 into one floor shift column with the correct shaft for power steering. During its teardown i figured out why they tried the home brewed 3 speed on the floor. A piece was broken up in the column on the shifter tube and it wouldent shift anymore the collar with the shifter handle would just rotate around the shaft.
No matter i'm going 4 on the floor now. The things i kept were basically everything except the steering shaft. I used the one from the automatic car. I had to fabricate and butt weld in a plate that covers the end of the tube where the 3 speed shifter forks come out. I also cut the forks off the shifter tubes and fit them back in the column as part of the initial mock up before it came back apart for paint and final assembly. The butt welded plate i ground smooth and applied a skim coat of JB weld and bodyworked prior to primering and painting.
At the top of the steering outer tube is the manual shifter collar and upper collar that holds the turn signal and horn switch roller mechanisms. I went with these as the upper one was already smooth for a floor shift. The lower one had only a nub for the column shift handle. I cut the nub off and filed it concave. Then i cleaned out all the grease from it and sandblasted it clean and packet it with JB weld to fill it up. When it was dry i sanded it, !and bodyworked it to prep and paint it.
Everything was either sandblasted prior to painting, or cleaned and lubricated like the bearing races. I bought a lower coupler rebuild kit and redid the power steering splined coupler. I picked up a new turn signal switch assembly and a grant GT wheel adaptor kit to use a grant 3 spoke wheel a good friend of mine gave me about 7 years ago. He just recently passed away in december 2015. The column now is done and packed away in wrapped storage until needed. Shown in the pix are the bodyworked and jb weld filled collar and tube end.
No matter i'm going 4 on the floor now. The things i kept were basically everything except the steering shaft. I used the one from the automatic car. I had to fabricate and butt weld in a plate that covers the end of the tube where the 3 speed shifter forks come out. I also cut the forks off the shifter tubes and fit them back in the column as part of the initial mock up before it came back apart for paint and final assembly. The butt welded plate i ground smooth and applied a skim coat of JB weld and bodyworked prior to primering and painting.
At the top of the steering outer tube is the manual shifter collar and upper collar that holds the turn signal and horn switch roller mechanisms. I went with these as the upper one was already smooth for a floor shift. The lower one had only a nub for the column shift handle. I cut the nub off and filed it concave. Then i cleaned out all the grease from it and sandblasted it clean and packet it with JB weld to fill it up. When it was dry i sanded it, !and bodyworked it to prep and paint it.
Everything was either sandblasted prior to painting, or cleaned and lubricated like the bearing races. I bought a lower coupler rebuild kit and redid the power steering splined coupler. I picked up a new turn signal switch assembly and a grant GT wheel adaptor kit to use a grant 3 spoke wheel a good friend of mine gave me about 7 years ago. He just recently passed away in december 2015. The column now is done and packed away in wrapped storage until needed. Shown in the pix are the bodyworked and jb weld filled collar and tube end.
Last edited:
Nice work
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
My car came with a leece neville made Vspeed wiper motor. Both my old chargers only had low and high 2 speed wipers. I never heard of a variable speed wiper setup until this car. Its essentially a switch with a low speed detent to get the party started, then you can smoothly rotate the knob like a rheostat all the way to high speed. I guess this was before they figured out delay action wipers. Well i took the motor apart to rebuild. I find out you cant get squat parts wise for this motor.
So i go back to the boneyard to hunt for a prestolite Vspeed motor or 2. As i pull in i notice a sign that now makes me more cautious when walking around the cars and getting parts. Salvage yard owner tells me prob $10 each. Go see what you can find. Back to the half stripped 67 in the boneyard, get the first motor, and crank arm, then get motor number 2 off a 68 fury. I go up to the salvage yard checkout counter with these deplorable looking things that have been sun baked and rained on prob over 10 years, and the owner Gene tells me oh hell those things look so bad i cant charge you for em. Just take em they are free. So i thank the man and head home with my new rusty treasures.
I get 2 boxes and take each motor apart one at a time and put em each in seperate boxes. Then i start to round up the best pieces from each motor. I decided to use the 67 as its date coded for 67. Only difference i found between the 2 was the 68 the motor can and armature are a little longer. Everything else looked the same. Both crank arm drive gears were shot, and rubber mounting gaskets both shot. Got those off ebay, motor gear housing went into the sand blaster, motor can or drum went out to get cadmium plated. I put the armature on a drill press and using fine sandpaper on a flat piece of wood i smoothed out the grooving in the commutator. Then smoothed up the mating surfaces of the motor brushes
I rewrapped all the windings with new winding paper and fiberglass tape to replace the cloth tape. The wires coming out of the windings use color coded fiberglass cloth tubing. Enough of it was unfaded inside the motor that i could figure it out. I decided to use shrink tubing in the colors they used. I was able to also get short stainless steel countersunk screws that hold the iron motor poles in place from my local fastenal.
Everything went back together using areroshell 22 synthetic grease. This stuff does not dry out and maintains consistency in extreme hot or cold temps. Wired up the harness with all new color coded wires crimped to new spades and plugged into connector. Fabricated new ground strap from brass sheet i purchased at hobby lobby. Bench testing will only put the motor in low speed, high speed, and reverse/park. Motor worked perfectly. I am prob into it for about $150 or so. Compared to $350 up for one already rebuilt plus i know how its put together and can easily fix it if need be.
I have one more of these to build up fo the 69 notch i'm saving for my son. I have the 68 motor in pieces, and an assembled 69 motor i got from another fabo member, plus the shrunk tubing, fiberglass tape, winding paper, copper wire and other odds and ends all packed up in a box until we are ready to rebuild onefor his car.
So i go back to the boneyard to hunt for a prestolite Vspeed motor or 2. As i pull in i notice a sign that now makes me more cautious when walking around the cars and getting parts. Salvage yard owner tells me prob $10 each. Go see what you can find. Back to the half stripped 67 in the boneyard, get the first motor, and crank arm, then get motor number 2 off a 68 fury. I go up to the salvage yard checkout counter with these deplorable looking things that have been sun baked and rained on prob over 10 years, and the owner Gene tells me oh hell those things look so bad i cant charge you for em. Just take em they are free. So i thank the man and head home with my new rusty treasures.
I get 2 boxes and take each motor apart one at a time and put em each in seperate boxes. Then i start to round up the best pieces from each motor. I decided to use the 67 as its date coded for 67. Only difference i found between the 2 was the 68 the motor can and armature are a little longer. Everything else looked the same. Both crank arm drive gears were shot, and rubber mounting gaskets both shot. Got those off ebay, motor gear housing went into the sand blaster, motor can or drum went out to get cadmium plated. I put the armature on a drill press and using fine sandpaper on a flat piece of wood i smoothed out the grooving in the commutator. Then smoothed up the mating surfaces of the motor brushes
I rewrapped all the windings with new winding paper and fiberglass tape to replace the cloth tape. The wires coming out of the windings use color coded fiberglass cloth tubing. Enough of it was unfaded inside the motor that i could figure it out. I decided to use shrink tubing in the colors they used. I was able to also get short stainless steel countersunk screws that hold the iron motor poles in place from my local fastenal.
Everything went back together using areroshell 22 synthetic grease. This stuff does not dry out and maintains consistency in extreme hot or cold temps. Wired up the harness with all new color coded wires crimped to new spades and plugged into connector. Fabricated new ground strap from brass sheet i purchased at hobby lobby. Bench testing will only put the motor in low speed, high speed, and reverse/park. Motor worked perfectly. I am prob into it for about $150 or so. Compared to $350 up for one already rebuilt plus i know how its put together and can easily fix it if need be.
I have one more of these to build up fo the 69 notch i'm saving for my son. I have the 68 motor in pieces, and an assembled 69 motor i got from another fabo member, plus the shrunk tubing, fiberglass tape, winding paper, copper wire and other odds and ends all packed up in a box until we are ready to rebuild onefor his car.
Last edited:
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Not much to report on today. Steering wheel was fried. Was able to get a goodmark replacement from getallparts.com its listed for 68/69 dart but i know it will fit a 67. I'm not sure if they offer that stock wheel any more but it was the cheapest price around i could find at $95. I think year one sells the same wheel for $200. Also found a nice used horn ring from a fabo list member with decent chrome on it. Chrome on mine was shot. Only things i kept off my old one were the center cap, horn contactor, and mounting screws. So my dilemma is now going to be keep the grant wheel on there my buddy who recently passed away gave me years ago, or use the stock wheel and hang his grant wheel on the wall of the shop.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Awhile back i rebuilt the instrument cluster and whole dashboard assembly, well i just got around to rewiring it all. Started with an M&H harness from year one, but had to modify a few things. No cutting was necessary only adding in. My 67 will have a hurst 4 speed, i decided to add the reverse dash light used on the 69 and up cars. This harness is set up for automatic reverse light switch in the column. I repinned it to the bulkhead for a 4 speed application and slaved in the reverse dash light wire.
It doesnt come with tachometer wiring either,. Neither did the factory made harness unless you ordered the car with a tach. So this too was an add in. I wired it in with factory colors, and coiled up the extra wire as i will be running a shift light and not a tach, but still need these leads. I also bypassed the ammeter gage wiring by attaching the 2 leads together with a bolt and a nut and shrink wrap.
The last part of this was adding in a factory chrysler light package. 67 barracudas were not available with a light package. A spare light package sub harness from a 69 rallye dash harness was used. I dewired the lights on buzzer from it, and added in the wiring for an under dash map light switch using 68 dart schematics. I cut a hole in the 67 ignition switch chrome bezel for the light to shine on the ignition switch, adapted an ignition switch light from a 68 fury to work since 67s didnt have illuminated key hole,
I also drilled a hole to add an on/off switch and bezel for map light, and added in the ashtray light and glovebox light. The grand finale was testing everything with a car battery hooked up, then boxing it all back up and putting in storage until needed.
It doesnt come with tachometer wiring either,. Neither did the factory made harness unless you ordered the car with a tach. So this too was an add in. I wired it in with factory colors, and coiled up the extra wire as i will be running a shift light and not a tach, but still need these leads. I also bypassed the ammeter gage wiring by attaching the 2 leads together with a bolt and a nut and shrink wrap.
The last part of this was adding in a factory chrysler light package. 67 barracudas were not available with a light package. A spare light package sub harness from a 69 rallye dash harness was used. I dewired the lights on buzzer from it, and added in the wiring for an under dash map light switch using 68 dart schematics. I cut a hole in the 67 ignition switch chrome bezel for the light to shine on the ignition switch, adapted an ignition switch light from a 68 fury to work since 67s didnt have illuminated key hole,
I also drilled a hole to add an on/off switch and bezel for map light, and added in the ashtray light and glovebox light. The grand finale was testing everything with a car battery hooked up, then boxing it all back up and putting in storage until needed.
Last edited:
dbphemi
Well-Known Member
Looks better than new. Good job!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Clutch and brake pedals redo. Everything either sandblasted, primed, and painted, or cleaned w a wire wheel and coated with LPS-2 lubricant. New brake and clutch pedal pads w stainless trim installed, and brand new brake and clutch bushings made from bronse rod stock by a fellow fabo member Chris Everard. "ValiantOne" these things are great. No pedal slop and wont wear like stock plastic ones will. I also added 3/4" length to the throw arm on the clutch pedal for quicker disc seperation (old racers trick) and greased it all up with Aeroshell 22 all temperature grease.
Hi po cars got needle bearings for the heavier duty clutches they used, along with way different shaft diameters making them not retrofittable to the setups that had plastic bushings. Thats what makes these bronse ones great, you can essentially convert a stock plastic bushing setup to the high performance setup with these.
Hi po cars got needle bearings for the heavier duty clutches they used, along with way different shaft diameters making them not retrofittable to the setups that had plastic bushings. Thats what makes these bronse ones great, you can essentially convert a stock plastic bushing setup to the high performance setup with these.
Last edited:
Dayaaauuumm!!!!
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Really nice work Matt. You are showing us how
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
When you look at that clutch lever arm after its been installed you cannot even tell where its been altered. I made sure i V notched where i was welding it up, to make sure it was a good solid weld so i could grind it flat and make it invisible.
I am an aircraft sheetmetal mechanic crewchief and sheetmetal instructor by trade. Sometimes i think my descriptions on this thread tend to drone on, but i like making sure i have all the details covered especially if someone wants to duplicate what i have done.
I am an aircraft sheetmetal mechanic crewchief and sheetmetal instructor by trade. Sometimes i think my descriptions on this thread tend to drone on, but i like making sure i have all the details covered especially if someone wants to duplicate what i have done.
Impressive, Matt. As per usual.
-
