67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub

-
This was an as built project. I cycled the suspension and the geometry is perfect. No binding etc and it will go REAL LOW, Low Rider Low, anybody got a block of magnesium so I can throw some rainbow sparks?? haaaaaa:-D

I have not calculated the Anti Squat. Reason being this in not a full tube chassis car and the links are alot shorter. On a regular link set up you have SEVERAL holes for adjustment that would help the DRAG RACER fine tune the system. This set up here is more of a Weekend Street/Strip set up. Not a FULL RACE DEAL.

I had the pinion set at 0 during mock up and when I cycled the suspension 5" each way up or down it holds the pinion angle dead on 0. So after the drive train is installed I will get the correct pinion angle per the output shaft of the trans and set it from there. It should stay dead on where ever I set it at through all of the suspension travel.

Um.. Well the geometry is not only for the track. it also controls the street handling and the weight transfer..

If you didn't design it for anythign specific you could at least find out what you have by using these pages:

http://www.racetec.cc/shope/tim.17.htm
(Use the point where the upper links would theoretically meet for the third link)

http://www.racetec.cc/shope/tim.12.htm

http://www.racetec.cc/shope/tim.18.htm

Use whichever one you like best...

And here is the homepage...

http://www.racetec.cc/shope/
 
I dropped the housing off today at Sutton Engineering. He is going to shorten the B BODY housing by 3 3/4" on each side, cut the perches off, cut/respline and harden the axles, New Green Bearings. New 3" wheel Studs. Total Price was $480.00

He said for a street car and occasional strip to 10.50 or so quarter times that the axles would hold up fine. I wanted to buy new axles from strange which he could supply me with but he said for my intended use it is not needed. I guess we will see!
 
Look out for the hot molten tar coming at you when you scrape those wheel wells. That was the worst part of my entire mini tub. Looking great so far. So are you going with the 325's? :snakeman: I think they look badass. I have people following my dart for miles checking out the 4-link and tires. Got a thumbs up from a couple of kids driving a fart can ricer the other day.

ride4.jpg
 
Oh yeah just a tip on the under coating. The best method that I found is a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Then you have to watch for wire flying at your face going mach 2. Ouch! and wear a face shield.
 
Badart,

I actually used a 5 Gal Propane tank and a Propane Torch with electronic ignition on a 6ft hose. Heat it up and it scrapes right off like butter. Then like you said I use a wire wheel to clean it up. Spent about 2 Hours on it last night. I am ready to CUT IT UP after I take a few more measurements. I will start with drilling out the spot welds after I mark all the lines where to cut.

Yes I am going with the 325/50/15's Those tires you have there are pretty FAT!


Thanks for all the advise!
 
I also picked up a NEW radiator from LEADFOOT RACING the ebay guy. I asked for one about 3 weeks ago with the Inlet and Outlet switched opposite for a Dart. He actually called me back and I picked it up last week along with a 16" Electric Fan. Seems like a reliable guy and he works out of his house about 30 Min from me.
 
Ok, I am truly ready to CUT IT UP! It is all marked out, I removed the trunk lid and drilled out all the necessary spot welds. I also removed the undercoating that is in the way of me welding it all back together........I also made some Jigs out of cardboard. I will cut the radius areas short and fine tune them to the Jig. I am trying my best not to have any patches in any area at all. Since this is my very first MINI TUB we will see if that happens!

349 stroker etc 011.jpg

349 stroker etc 016.jpg

349 stroker etc 001.jpg

349 stroker etc 002.jpg

349 stroker etc 003.jpg

349 stroker etc 007.jpg

349 stroker etc 008.jpg

349 stroker etc 010.jpg

349 stroker etc 012.jpg

349 stroker etc 011.jpg


349 stroker etc 016.jpg


349 stroker etc 001.jpg


349 stroker etc 002.jpg


349 stroker etc 003.jpg


349 stroker etc 007.jpg


349 stroker etc 008.jpg


349 stroker etc 010.jpg


349 stroker etc 012.jpg
 
Cut tight to the tub from the tub cut/floor intersection point until you are moving parallel to the vehicle centerline, then move it over to the rail. That will leave you plenty of material to make that radius cut at each end. It's a little more work from a cutting standpoint, but, the end result will be nicer.

I would wait to cut the inner fender spots until you get the tub out.
 
Cut tight to the tub from the tub cut/floor intersection point until you are moving parallel to the vehicle centerline, then move it over to the rail. That will leave you plenty of material to make that radius cut at each end. It's a little more work from a cutting standpoint, but, the end result will be nicer.

I would wait to cut the inner fender spots until you get the tub out.

I understand what you are saying and that is the plan! I was going to get the tub out and remove the floor material from the inner fender out of the car like
you say. Been studying the power point you sent fora while now, helps a whole
bunch!
 
Hey those cardboard patches look awfuly close LOL.Here,s how mine looked when done.Before and after welding.
car pics 66 Dart 054.jpg
car pics 66 Dart 055.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 054.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 055.jpg
 
Hey those cardboard patches look awfuly close LOL.Here,s how mine looked when done.Before and after welding.

How many hours did it take you on yours? Did you weld BOTH sides of it? It is quite a bit of work no doubt. I have been playing a cartoon in my mind for days and my finished product should come out good! haaaaa:toothy10:
 
How many hours did it take you on yours? Did you weld BOTH sides of it? It is quite a bit of work no doubt. I have been playing a cartoon in my mind for days and my finished product should come out good! haaaaa:toothy10:
It took me about 24 hrs,working in 5-6hr incriments after my 10hr day job.By the looks of your skills,you should be done quicker.Just a couple more pics to give you some ideas.Good luck!
car pics 66 Dart 050.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 052.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 062.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 061.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 066.jpg
It sure makes things easy when working with good metal and not rot!!

car pics 66 Dart 050.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 052.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 062.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 061.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 066.jpg
 
I spent about 2 hours on it today. The templates helped a bunch and I will not need to patch the floor at all. I will need to extend the wheel well just a bit in the trunk area just like the Power Point said.

I have it tacked in with screws for mock up. I will be scribing the back of the wheel well and cutting it FLUSH to the trunk floor following the contour of the trunk . I think it will come out cleaner that way without welding it directly to the frame rail from inside the wheel well. I spent a whole $2.70 on some steel at a scrap yard in town that I will cut the strips from etc. The seat belt hardware will need to be relocated on this car. It landed smack in the middle of the radius on the floor. I will move it over about 1" and take care of that.

349 stroker etc 001.jpg

349 stroker etc 002.jpg

349 stroker etc 003.jpg

349 stroker etc 004.jpg

349 stroker etc 005.jpg

349 stroker etc 006.jpg

349 stroker etc 007.jpg

349 stroker etc 008.jpg

349 stroker etc 009.jpg

349 stroker etc 012.jpg

349 stroker etc 001.jpg


349 stroker etc 002.jpg


349 stroker etc 003.jpg


349 stroker etc 004.jpg


349 stroker etc 005.jpg


349 stroker etc 006.jpg


349 stroker etc 007.jpg


349 stroker etc 008.jpg


349 stroker etc 009.jpg


349 stroker etc 012.jpg
 
Why did you do the z cut? And are you planning to welt it to the frame rails?

Great work so far!
 
Why did you do the z cut? And are you planning to welt it to the frame rails?

Great work so far!


The Z Cut is so I don't loose the Seat Bracket. I just cut around it, the strip of metal will stop and start there is all. Most Mini Tubs do this to leave the seat belt hardware in tact. Mine fell in the radius so I just need to move it about an inch. Stay tuned you will see what I am talking about in a few days or less hopefully.
 
The Z Cut is so I don't loose the Seat Bracket. I just cut around it, the strip of metal will stop and start there is all. Most Mini Tubs do this to leave the seat belt hardware in tact. Mine fell in the radius so I just need to move it about an inch. Stay tuned you will see what I am talking about in a few days or less hopefully.

RIGHT! I forgot about those...
 
I was just looking at the tech page on bb dart that deals with this. Looks like your doing a great job!
 
Looking good,only 22 hours left!LOLYou,ll probably knock it off alot quicker than I did.Was the first time welding in 20-odd years,enjoyed every minute of it.:clock:
 
Looking good,only 22 hours left!LOLYou,ll probably knock it off alot quicker than I did.Was the first time welding in 20-odd years,enjoyed every minute of it.:clock:

Thats the thing about this job.It's very time consuming. Lots of coffee/beer breaks needed,lol.
 
-
Back
Top