67 valiant redo

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Have a favor to ask....can you post a picture of the total engine bay? Like to see what kind of distance you have from the front of the heads to the inner fenders and radiator support...long story..,Thanks...
 
Got a bit more done on the car. I tried out some Mopar oval track springs 0" arch(part number ending in 414). I am pretty pleased with how they fit.
oval track 2.jpg

They do move the wheels back a small amount. Here are some measurements since I couldn't find any online when I was looking:
circle track measure.jpg
 
inkjunkie said:
Have a favor to ask....can you post a picture of the total engine bay? Like to see what kind of distance you have from the front of the heads to the inner fenders and radiator support...long story..,Thanks...
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Sure, it will be a little while though, since the engine is not in the car currently.
 
Another little quick update. I got the Holley HP EFI setup and made an aluminum bracket to mount it under the dash.
ECU mount.jpg

ECU mount 2.jpg
 
I had a bit of delay waiting for some parts, but we are back in action. I did a bit of cleanup on the engine before reassembly:
20170428_204238.jpg

The new clutch install - RAM 9.5 dual disc
clutch resize.jpg

Got the engine back in and working on an intake setup:
engine install.jpg
 
Very interesting project! What made you choose an LS over a Gen-3 Hemi? For someone considering a similar project, is the LS a better engine?
 
DanDart said:
Very interesting project! What made you choose an LS over a Gen-3 Hemi? For someone considering a similar project, is the LS a better engine?
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Price is a factor. The biggest benefit is the LS swap community, aftermarket support, and parts options being massively in favor of the LS. Also, I have had a few LS vehicles which I was pleased with the results I had gotten. So some of it is familiarity as well.
 
I have SS springs on my 67 and you can see the difference in axle center line between the two. pic 1 is the front of my wheel opening and pic 2 is the rear with 255/60/15.

Picture 3517.jpg


Picture 3518.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that, it is nice to have a reference in the same place.
 
Did you move your springs into the frames? Is your axle narrowed? I have another 67 that I picked up and the previous owner had installed the front boxes in the frame already and I picked up a CalTrac set up dirt cheap with mono leafs for the springs inboard. I'm wondering if I can adjust the leaf back to about where yours sits. The other 67 is a future project for when I get done with putting this one back together and driving it.

Picture 4490.jpg
 
Sedanman said:
Did you move your springs into the frames? Is your axle narrowed? I have another 67 that I picked up and the previous owner had installed the front boxes in the frame already and I picked up a CalTrac set up dirt cheap with mono leafs for the springs inboard. I'm wondering if I can adjust the leaf back to about where yours sits. The other 67 is a future project for when I get done with putting this one back together and driving it.

View attachment 1715044208
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I do have the old mopar offset spring hanger package installed. The rear end is stock A-body width. I would guess that you could move the bolt hole in the front hanger back ~1/2 inch to get the wheel placement I have.
 
Super clean buildup. I like it. The fab work looks great. Personally i think making em run and drive like a new car takes away the charm and personality of having an old car, i love the whir and clunk of an old 4 speed gear box myself. I like your trans crossmember setup though and will prob use a variation of it on my sons 69 notchback to use a 2004R trans. Did you sell off the pieces you pulled from the car when updating it? Also are you planning on a color change to black? Wish you all the best on your build.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Super clean buildup. I like it. The fab work looks great. Personally i think making em run and drive like a new car takes away the charm and personality of having an old car, i love the whir and clunk of an old 4 speed gear box myself. I like your trans crossmember setup though and will prob use a variation of it on my sons 69 notchback to use a 2004R trans. Did you sell off the pieces you pulled from the car when updating it? Also are you planning on a color change to black? Wish you all the best on your build.
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Thanks man, yeah I sold of the old engine/transmission and front suspension. The plan is to paint it gloss black with a mopar flat-ish black hood. That part still feels a ways off though.
 
More progress made this weekend. We made some radiator hoses to connect the LS to the Be-cool A-body radiator I already had. We used the 38mm coupler(used for the LS steam port vent) I picked up to couple the upper radiator hose.

intake rad.jpg


Also, you can see we switched the air intake to the other side. which worked out MUCH better. It originally couldn't go that direction with the contour fan setup, but with more trimming of the intake 90* off of the throttle body and some trimming of the fan shroud it cleared. Below is the amount we ha to trim off the fan shroud.
fan trim.jpg

The intake turned out simple enough. Just a big round hole in the core support with a 6" hole saw.
intake cutout.jpg

Then the filter fit nicely inside the grill.
intake driver side.jpg
 
Somehow I picture this car finished with a sinister dark charcoal metallic paint job, and semiflat black hood, and smoke tinted windows?​
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Somehow I picture this car finished with a sinister dark charcoal metallic paint job, and semiflat black hood, and smoke tinted windows?​
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You are not too far off :) Assuming I ever get around to painting it... only had the car for 17 years and still haven't done it.
 
Getting closer to firing it up hopefully. Made some progress over the weekend.

I got the complete Tanks Inc setup and the install was pretty straight forward. Just need 2 6 -an 90* fittings and the install will be complete.
5-30 gas tank.jpg

Running it on a fuel pump relay mounted in the trunk by the battery.
5-30 fuel pump relay.jpg


I got my dad to paint the exhaust black while I was away using high temp grill paint. It turned out nicely.
5-30 exhaust.jpg
 
N8track said:
Getting closer to firing it up hopefully. Made some progress over the weekend.

I got the complete Tanks Inc setup and the install was pretty straight forward. Just need 2 6 -an 90* fittings and the install will be complete.
View attachment 1715052544
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Check the location of the filler neck on the tank in relation to the hole in the valiant trunk floor. When I spoke with the guys from tanksinc at MATS, he indicated that he had to modify the floor hole location in his 69 valiant trunk by an inch or something small like that. Apparently the filler neck location on the tank differs between the 67-76 years slightly.
 
topbrent said:
Check the location of the filler neck on the tank in relation to the hole in the valiant trunk floor. When I spoke with the guys from tanksinc at MATS, he indicated that he had to modify the floor hole location in his 69 valiant trunk by an inch or something small like that. Apparently the filler neck location on the tank differs between the 67-76 years slightly.
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Interesting, I didn't need to alter that. Mine seemed to fit with the stock hole in the trunk floor.
 
N8track said:
Interesting, I didn't need to alter that. Mine seemed to fit with the stock hole in the trunk floor.
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That's good to hear. I think it might have been the guys from Aeromotive that I spoke to at MATS, actually. Anyhew...something to check.

Good progress on your project. Thanks for posting.
 
We also made a lower radiator support out of roll bar tubing to tie the frame rails together.

5-30 lower rad brace.jpg
 
N8track said:
I picked up an fbody pan setup(98-02) because the ground clearance is much better than the truck pan(about 3 inches). As for the accessory drive, the f-body setups are a bit more compact for radiator fan clearance. Also, I prefer the appearance and they aren't terribly priced. I've been looking at the Dirty Dingo setups.

I went with the power rack option. I was a bit surprised at the cost of the powersteering pump. Realistically, once you get the pump, hoses, bracket, and pump pressure lowered for a mustang rack... you are looking at ~$500-600 extra over a manual setup. Which was a bit of a pill to swallow, but at the end of the day I think it is one of those things that makes you want to drive the car more.

For cooling I already had a be-cool aluminum radiator and my dad knows a guy who can add a port to it for the steam port. So I'll likely just add an electric fan setup to it. I recall one of my friends mentioning that a ford windstar electric fan setup is pretty inexpensive, but decent.

If you get a 408 stroker in yours, I will be jealous.
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You don't have to add a steam port. Just t into the pressure line from the water pump out to your heater core and it'll work. Did it on my LS swap. That's how trailblazer ss with 6.0's do it.
 
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