68 Dart damaged instrument cluster circuit board

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Jason Maitland

Jason Maitland

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Location
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Hi All... greetings from Oz!
I removed my 68 Dart instrument cluster today, with much pain endured, and when I finally got it out, I discovered I had damaged one of circuit boards, specifically snapped 3 of the 4 pins where one of the plugs connect.
Is it possible to repair these items, or do I have to shell out for a new board (I note CI sell them, so easy enough to get one)
The pins themselves seem soooo fragile, I can't believe I didn't snap any on the other board!
Also, in image 2, it shows a metal contraption that seems wired to a "condensor" and plugged directly into the circuit board; is this literally a pull out and push back in item?
While I have the cluster out, I'd be interested in feedback regarding swapping out the globes with LEDs too... But I would want to keep it looking original light colour, not cold/bright colour temperature as some LEDs are...
Please see pics attached of my handy work... look forward to any feedback, thanks

Broken Circuit Board plug pins.jpg


Circuit Board image 2.jpg
 
No pics attached. May help you get a little better attention to this once you do.
 
MoparMike1974 replaces the pins and the boards will be better than new. I know it is a long way to ship from OZ.
 
Depends on how bad the damage is.
When I repaired one of those pins I used a brass escutchean pin installed from the back.
Details in this post How do I replace these metal pieces from my instrument panel?
The solder is just visible in this photo
upload_2021-5-13_16-8-17-png.png


A similar repair using wire
Printed circuit pins repair

@MoparMike1974 has been able to replace them with a very similar pin. Doubt its worth shipping to the other hemisphere..
Description and photos here: How do I replace these metal pieces from my instrument panel?
 
Last edited:
Mike did a GREAT job on mine. I sent 2 complete sets. New pins and cleaned and solid as heck!
66fs said:
MoparMike1974 replaces the pins and the boards will be better than new. I know it is a long way to ship from OZ.
Click to expand...
 
No LEDs for me. That's just another headache as far as I'm concerned.
A little cleaning of the circuit board contacts, some deoxit on the headlight switch too.
One new(er) socket, and 158 bulbs.
This photo isn't even at night.
upload_2020-9-5_21-28-27-png.png


I also generally dim the dash lights, especially on dark roads.
 
Mattax said:
No LEDs for me. That's just another headache as far as I'm concerned.
A little cleaning of the circuit board contacts, some deoxit on the headlight switch too.
One new(er) socket, and 158 bulbs.
This photo isn't even at night.
View attachment 1715982496

I also generally dim the dash lights, especially on dark roads.
Click to expand...
Thanks everyone for valuable feeedback - really appreciated. I might reach out to MoparMike, depending on shipping costs... or simply shell out for a new board I think... Has anyone had positive experience with new boards from CI?
 
Jason Maitland said:
Thanks everyone for valuable feeedback - really appreciated. I might reach out to MoparMike, depending on shipping costs... or simply shell out for a new board I think... Has anyone had positive experience with new boards from CI?
Click to expand...
My 70 Duster has the rallye dash so it has 2 circuit boards. I bought both boards on EBay from a seller named "fmmpar". The price was much less than CI and they worked great!

Edit: I see he does not offer one for your Dart, but Classic looks to have one if you want to go that way.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
My 70 Duster has the rallye dash so it has 2 circuit boards. I bought both boards on EBay from a seller named "fmmpar". The price was much less than CI and they worked great!

Edit: I see he does not offer one for your Dart, but Classic looks to have one if you want to go that way.
Click to expand...
I'm actually concerned about reinstalling and potentially breaking the pins again when plugging back in... For that reason I was thinking to replace all pins, any tips on re-installing? I find it really challenging to access where needed up behind the cluster itself and didn't even realise I had to unplug both boards until I spent a lot of time feeling around for what was creating the resistance to removing the cluster itself...
 
Jason Maitland said:
I'm actually concerned about reinstalling and potentially breaking the pins again when plugging back in... For that reason I was thinking to replace all pins, any tips on re-installing? I find it really challenging to access where needed up behind the cluster itself and didn't even realise I had to unplug both boards until I spent a lot of time feeling around for what was creating the resistance to removing the cluster itself...
Click to expand...
I personally would not attempt to resolder the pins. Some have done it with good success but I did not want to go through all that work just to have something happen. Buying the replacement board was a no brainer for me. When I took my boards out it looks like someone tried to solder the pins but did a lousy job. No thanks!
 
Jason Maitland said:
Hi All... greetings from Oz!
I removed my 68 Dart instrument cluster today, with much pain endured, and when I finally got it out, I discovered I had damaged one of circuit boards, specifically snapped 3 of the 4 pins where one of the plugs connect.
Is it possible to repair these items, or do I have to shell out for a new board (I note CI sell them, so easy enough to get one)
The pins themselves seem soooo fragile, I can't believe I didn't snap any on the other board!
Also, in image 2, it shows a metal contraption that seems wired to a "condensor" and plugged directly into the circuit board; is this literally a pull out and push back in item?
While I have the cluster out, I'd be interested in feedback regarding swapping out the globes with LEDs too... But I would want to keep it looking original light colour, not cold/bright colour temperature as some LEDs are...
Please see pics attached of my handy work... look forward to any feedback, thanks

View attachment 1715982492

View attachment 1715982493
Click to expand...
You can fix the pins yourself, a little sand paper to clean around the clad and pin then solder the pin back. Won't cost much and will have you felling good about yourself when you succeed. (use some vaseline on your pins and plug, waterproof and stops corrosion)
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
I personally would not attempt to resolder the pins. Some have done it with good success but I did not want to go through all that work just to have something happen. Buying the replacement board was a no brainer for me. When I took my boards out it looks like someone tried to solder the pins but did a lousy job. No thanks!
Click to expand...
Yes, I agree... Power to those who have!... I'll definitely buy the one board I've damaged, I'm just thinking it may be a good idea to buy both, and not risk damaging the currently undamaged board whilst re-installing?... Are the boards literally unplug old and install new? I note on my damaged board there seems to be some metal type contraption that seems to be plugged in the back and connected/wired to a condenser looking component (refer my pic showing it!)
 
Also, as a side note, my indicator globes/housings are missing... Would this maybe be because it's a GT model with front fender, top mounted indicator trim package?
 
Jason Maitland said:
Also, as a side note, my indicator globes/housings are missing... Would this maybe be because it's a GT model with front fender, top mounted indicator trim package
Click to expand...
No.
GT has dash indicators also.
When you say "my indicator globes/housings are missing.."

Are you saying the light bulbs and the black plastic holders are missing?

If so, replacements can be had, just be sure you get the correct size black plastic holder. There is a small and a large and you need the large (IIRC)
 
A '68 Dodge Dart Shop manual will be a big help.
I know the Plymouth manual has illustration of the instrument panel along with removal instructions. It doesn't cover all the little tricks one learns afte doing a few but at least send you in the right direction.
If its an RHD export model, it will be a little different.
 
Jason Maitland said:
I note on my damaged board there seems to be some metal type contraption that seems to be plugged in the back and connected/wired to a condenser looking component (refer my pic showing it!
Click to expand...
Sounds like you are referring to the IVR (Instranent voltage regulator) and noise capacitor.
Watch this corny but very informative video




Screenshot_20220908-080539.png
 
BTW

If it was me...

I would get both boards, and a r-t engineering IVR

RTE limiter - rte

I have to pull my cluster because my OEM ivr died and fried my temp gauge.

When the heater wire in the IVR breaks the IVR provided 12v continuous to the gauges.

You don't have much to loose trying to fix it.

I like the brass pin nail repair, just watch the heat so you don't delaminate the copper traces off the board.

You could re-engineer it. Solder wires to the board, and create an appropriate pin on the end of each wire that will connect up to the stock connector in the wiring harness.

Be sure no exposed conductors.
 
In order to not break pins you MUST unbolt the steering column at the dash and the floor, then push it down as far as you can to the seat. Sometimes I remove the steering wheel to make it go down further and be able to sit on the seat while removing or installing the IP...
 
Another way around this is to NOT use the pins. Buy a couple (or one big one) such as Molex style connector, which are available from several electronics suppliers. Scrape, clean and solder pigtail wires to the board direct to the traces and run those to the Molex connector(s) and replace your harness connector with "same."

Another couple things you should do while you have the board out
1...Replace or at least clean the bulbs, and clean the sockets and board traces. Bend the socket contacts if necessary for better contact
2..Solder jumpers from the board traces to the IVR contacts. These often lose good connection
3...Loosen/ tighten the gauge stud nuts several times to "scrub" the connection clean
4...If you still have the original type electro-mechanical IVR consider getting a solid state one such as RTE

You should not be having all that much trouble getting the cluster in/ out. Most of us drop the column down which for me was a huge aid. Be sure to first disconnect the battery Disconnect the speedo if you can, work it "down" as if hinging it down and out and towards you. Disconnect the ammeter wires and unplug the connectors and it should slide right out with the face sort of downwards
 
Thanks everyone for your kind and very helpful feedback...

I have the column dropped properly, but actually, whilst it does help quite a bit, as a newby, I found it still very fiddly to remove the cluster. A lot of the issue is not ever having seen exactly where everything is behind there, it's very hard to know what's what, and to locate what you have to etc. Most of the time I was in there on my back trying to locate, disconnect wiring etc, whereas, I believe now I know where it mostly is, you can probably almost put it all back without attempting to be Houdini in the process! - I welcome others' thoughts on this, as I am only 5ft 7in, and quite fit, and it was quite a workout for me!
On another topic, can anyone shed light on why my turn signal/indicator bulbs might be missing out of my cluster? My car is a GT model with top of Fender mounted turn signals that display back to the driver as such, would that be why they simply deleted the dash signals on this particular model? I would actually like to have dash mounted signals too, if possible!
I will replace the damaged circuit board, maybe both, and maybe the IVR, and all bulbs whilst I'm there... thanks again everyone!
 
Jason Maitland said:
On another topic, can anyone shed light on why my turn signal/indicator bulbs might be missing out of my cluster? My car is a GT model with top of Fender mounted turn signals that display back to the driver as such, would that be why they simply deleted the dash signals on this particular model?
Click to expand...

Dana67Dart said:
...GT has dash indicators...
Click to expand...

PXL_20220909_022744810~2.jpg
 
Yes, correct... my dash has those too, but no bulbs/holders in the back... that's why asked, so I'm wondering IF it's as simple as buying some bulbs/connectors and plugging them in to reinstate them!?! (hopefully!!)
 
Once you get your boards repaired, put in bulbs, apply 6v to the board and see if they light up. Replacing the voltage reg for the board is a good idea.
I just made my dash harness and installed LED's they look good, just make sure they are oriented(polarity specific) properly.
 
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