68' Valiant 4 door
- Thread starter kursplat
- Start date
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thanks. i'm trying to do a better job this time around, thinking things through first, problem is i look at some of the other threads around here and want to tear it apart and start over
worst thing to do is have one plan, so i get the car painted, and immediately change my mind and decide to build it instead
keeping the end in mind though, which is drive the piss out of it
Its hard to stay on course sometime. However your not going to be disappointed in any extra effort in your car. The plan on my current car was to actually keep it rough.. actually harder to do than it sounds! I replaced a broken reverse lamp lens and my son gave me a hard time..
the heck with this, i'm done for this week. too freakin hot and i'm going back to work tomorrow. i was hoping to have the rear all buttoned up and back on the road, oh well... what should have been an over night order for axle seals, (the stuff you forget until your ready to install it 
), turned into 3 days due to napa having logistics issues. also managed to install the lugs in the axles without breaking anything.
probably should have made a bracket or something to hold the axle better
just need to plumb the rear end
), turned into 3 days due to napa having logistics issues. also managed to install the lugs in the axles without breaking anything.probably should have made a bracket or something to hold the axle better
just need to plumb the rear end
so i finally fixed the leaking gas tank. gave up on the stock lock ring and ordered one from DTM. this thing is nice. stainless, a little thicker than the one i removed, and the raised portion (castles?) that are supposed to fit the wrench, are spot on with this one. even then i was having trouble getting it locked down
ended up making a tool to help drive the locks under the tabs better.
also just about finished swapping in the 8 3/4". once that's all in i'll be able to measure for wheels. all ready decided on 18's but not sure how wide i can go or what offset until then.
ended up making a tool to help drive the locks under the tabs better.
also just about finished swapping in the 8 3/4". once that's all in i'll be able to measure for wheels. all ready decided on 18's but not sure how wide i can go or what offset until then.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
no.4 would be 'period' roundy roundy racer style 
neil.
neil.
R4Sedan
Larry
I like no. 4 as well. My first thought.
no.4 would be 'period' roundy roundy racer style
I like no. 4 as well. My first thought.
ya, always liked them. very road race
really liking this one too
mygasser
Well-Known Member
yeah that was my second choice but i thought we only got one go each
no limits, anyone that want's to help spend my $$ have a good timeyeah that was my second choice but i thought we only got one go each
mygasser
Well-Known Member
cool. well i'm not averse to number 5 either then for a modern road race look. the more i look at 7 the more vw/porsche it looks .
neil.
.neil.
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
yep, 1,2 and 3 look a bit cheap chinese. like if they were on your car it'd spin the front wheels and you'd wear your cap backwards 
yep, 1,2 and 3 look a bit cheap chinese. like if they were on your car it'd spin the front wheels and you'd wear your cap backwards
if you see me like that, i hope you know what to do...
finally got a couple test drives in with the new rear. lovin' 3.73's and rear disks, much snappier off the line. with the stripped interior it's still pretty noisy, but it a good kind of noise the car is starting to come alive.
after driving this to work yesterday found out i might be having a problem. checked the oil and the dip stick had some cottage cheese on the end of it. like valve covers get when you never let the motor warm up, but just on the end. the oil above that looked fine. no milk, no bubbles, nothing else. weird... so i don't know if i'll have time to look at it this weekend, but i need to figure out what's up. if i end up pulling the motor i might just talk to Johnny Mac, and see about a 408 was hoping to wait until next year to to swap it but if i gotta'...
the car is starting to come alive.after driving this to work yesterday found out i might be having a problem. checked the oil and the dip stick had some cottage cheese on the end of it. like valve covers get when you never let the motor warm up, but just on the end. the oil above that looked fine. no milk, no bubbles, nothing else. weird... so i don't know if i'll have time to look at it this weekend, but i need to figure out what's up. if i end up pulling the motor i might just talk to Johnny Mac, and see about a 408
was hoping to wait until next year to to swap it but if i gotta'...Pull the drain plug to the last few threads and see if water dribbles out before any oil. If so you may have a problem.If not it may just be condensation that didn't burn off yet. Slant 6 cars were notorious for this because of being so cold blooded.Even my Hemi car shows this till I run it for a long period of time. 212* is when water starts to boil and my take 220*or more to vaporize completely.Then the PCV valve will suck it into the combustion chamber and out the tail pipe.
check. that's a good idea to just let it dribble out the plug. i'm hoping condensation too since it's running fine. any time i move a car, i try to let it get hot for a while before shutting it down. if i don't find anything with the oil or pulling the plugs i'll look under the valve covers and maybe a leak down.
if nothing else shows i'll change the oil and take it for a hard drive
thanks Romeo
stupid cars, they're worse than kids
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