Yeah, just jumping the gun. I panic every time I start the 65."Whats that noise ! was it there before ? is the oil pressure the same as last time? I don't remember if the rear was making that sound.'' You know what I'm talking about.
68' Valiant 4 door
- Thread starter kursplat
- Start date
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Yeah, just jumping the gun. I panic every time I start the 65."Whats that noise ! was it there before ? is the oil pressure the same as last time? I don't remember if the rear was making that sound.'' You know what I'm talking about.
"Whats that noise ! was it there before ? is the oil pressure the same as last time? I don't remember if the rear was making that sound.'' You know what I'm talking about.
yupwell nothing about the oil is looking bad. drained the oil a bit first like Darter6 suggested, then all of it. pulled the plugs and valve covers. not seeing anything wrong. just going to run it and keep an eye on things. moving on to other projects ...figuring out how to do a harness bar
...figuring out how to do a harness barfinally got the new drivers seat mounted and Schroth harness installed. as much as i love the material Darter6 used on the seats, trying to go around a corner at over 10 mph without sliding out was rough .
Summit has decent reclining ones at a good price and they're pretty comfortable. in keeping with my plan of mostly a street car i can take to the track i wanted to add a harness that won't be in the way of someone using the back seat. same reason i didn't want to add a traditional harness bar. crazy maybe, but i decided to anchor the whole thing in the trunk. 2" tubing under the package shelf tied into the upper shock mounts. hopefully i'll never find out how good or bad of an idea this is
the other thing i managed to finish was tying in the front upper shock mounts to the frame rails. i'd talked to @HemiDenny about using his HDK upper shock mounts from the coil over conversion kit. he didn't flat tell me i was an idiot, and since the car was painted just a couple years ago, i was looking for something that didn't need welding, so that left out J-bars and and US cartool brackets. these HDK brackets are stout and they fit perfect i did remove the part where the coilover attaches to make sure there was enough clearance with the suspension at full compression, but for what i'm using them for, it shouldn't make any difference.
. Summit has decent reclining ones at a good price and they're pretty comfortable. in keeping with my plan of mostly a street car i can take to the track i wanted to add a harness that won't be in the way of someone using the back seat. same reason i didn't want to add a traditional harness bar. crazy maybe, but i decided to anchor the whole thing in the trunk. 2" tubing under the package shelf tied into the upper shock mounts. hopefully i'll never find out how good or bad of an idea this is
the other thing i managed to finish was tying in the front upper shock mounts to the frame rails. i'd talked to @HemiDenny about using his HDK upper shock mounts from the coil over conversion kit. he didn't flat tell me i was an idiot, and since the car was painted just a couple years ago, i was looking for something that didn't need welding, so that left out J-bars and and US cartool brackets. these HDK brackets are stout and they fit perfect
i did remove the part where the coilover attaches to make sure there was enough clearance with the suspension at full compression, but for what i'm using them for, it shouldn't make any difference.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
not now
I like your thinking..........If there was a demand, It would be simple to make a wider version (no modification / cutting) of the upper shock mount for non coil over applications like yours. I'm sure you will attest, it stealthily strengthens the shock mount area. It has work without failure on the HDK coil over conversion for over 2 decades.
904 with mvb. i always end up driving them like they are anyway
they blend in alright, if i hit them with a little undercoating they'd look factory. the rear bolt lines up perfectly with the brake distribution block, so i still need to get that one done. it's too bad we can't put one of these cars on a shaker rig, and test it from stock through all the chassis mods, to see how each one actually affects things. ya, everything gets stiffer, but at what point is it just adding weight?
904 with mvb. i always end up driving them like they are anyway
they blend in alright, if i hit them with a little undercoating they'd look factory. the rear bolt lines up perfectly with the brake distribution block, so i still need to get that one done. it's too bad we can't put one of these cars on a shaker rig, and test it from stock through all the chassis mods, to see how each one actually affects things. ya, everything gets stiffer, but at what point is it just adding weight?
if it has a function, I'm good. And I agree, just to add weight for looking good, ......no thanks.
street car i can take to the track
and although traffic in l.a. sucks, it has some of the greatest canyon driving anywhere
finished the trans swap. only had one issue over the weekend, and decided to wait for monday to call CRT about it. the dogs or pins, or whatever they're called in the pump that the torque convertor notches slide over, got bounced around in shipping, and moved out of alignment enough i couldn't get the TQ in. Cope said it happens and i should be able to rotate that ring and get it back in place. i spent about four hours screwing with that getting no where.
so i decided to sacrifice the old convertor to the transmission gods
cut the hub off it, welded on some handles and made an alignment tool. wish i'd thought of that in the first place i've only done one quick test drive but dang this thing shifts nice.and a shout out to the cheep harbor freight trans jack. i've always just used a floor jack but bought this knowing i wasn't going to have anyone around to help. sooo much easier
Glad it all worked out.But we will need more photos of that bad boy !
Harbor Freight may get a bad rap sometimes but some of the stuff works great.
The neighbor bought a under lift tranny jack about 20 years ago from HF and we are still using it today.Makes things very handy !
Harbor Freight may get a bad rap sometimes but some of the stuff works great.
The neighbor bought a under lift tranny jack about 20 years ago from HF and we are still using it today.Makes things very handy !
wow this trans shifts nice. worth every penny drove the car to work a couple days this week with no problems, which was nice since it was in the dark going both ways, and really didn't want to be fixing anything mid trip. i'm planning on crawling around it to double checking everything tomorrow, hopefully the brakes on my daughters car don't take too long.
drove the car to work a couple days this week with no problems, which was nice since it was in the dark going both ways, and really didn't want to be fixing anything mid trip. i'm planning on crawling around it to double checking everything tomorrow, hopefully the brakes on my daughters car don't take too long.
I've been checking in on your build every so often, this is turning out fantastic. I watch folks like you with mad fab skills, and think why do I bother? It's like sending a second grader up against Tiger Woods. However, I do get the chance to drool over your car so that part is good. It is turning out to be a sweet little sleeper.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
to me it looks to be strengthening for the harness 'bar' under the package tray as the tray's not stiff enough on it's own. of course i could be talking utter rubbish so.....
neil.
thank you, but i look at some of the work others around here do and kick myself for being lazy and deciding "ahh, good enough"
nope, as usual you know just what your talking aboutto me it looks to be strengthening for the harness 'bar' under the package tray as the tray's not stiff enough on it's own. of course i could be talking utter rubbish so.....
neil.
trying to have a harness bar and keep the back seat usable, not so easy. when i had a schroth harness in my sti, it was easy, just attach to the rear seat belt mount in the C pillar. so i decided to try under the package tray, then figured tying it into something a little more stout would be a good idea. so i went to the upper shock mounts.
i used the heims and threaded rod because they were easy to fit things up with. probably going to change to solid bar stock, but they do look kind of cool when i open the trunk
i figure if i wreck bad enough for all that to tear out, it's probably the least of my problems
decided to swap back to the champion radiator and add a contour fan setup. i'm done with my experiment with the 2 row copper one i got from radiator express. i might have been able to get it to work ok but decided to go back to the aluminum. of course that means a better alternator, which turned into a PITA and ate up most of a day. basically the PowerMaster alternator with their 6 grove pulley doesn't line up with the March pulleys. so instead of pulling apart the brand new alternator and swapping them, i just redid the mounts. this way at least i didn't hack up anything, which is strange because that's usually my first move
also managed to knock out a bracket to hold the controllers for the fans and the gearvendor
also managed to knock out a bracket to hold the controllers for the fans and the gearvendor
as hinted at in a previous post, i picked up a Gear Vendors a few weeks ago, and finally had time to work on the install.
first, i knew from going though every thread and comment i could find, that there was no way to know if this was going to be easy or not on my car...spoiler alert, it's not. on this car it's not a BFH and a few dents job.
second, the gear vendors manual isn't very good. it's out dated, (they've updated the control unit, and instead of printing new instructions, they include an extra page with the new wiring instructions), and they have assembly steps that they already did.
everything looks good and was well packed. i was going to just drive down there and pick it up (a couple hours away), but they did free shipping, so that was nice.
tail shaft comparison...
first thing is swap the tail shaft. i had never removed one before, and was a little worried about getting it back together, but happy to say it wasn't a problem.
until i went to put the cross member back in. that big ring where the OD bolts to the tail shaft housing is at the narrowest part of the tunnel
those tabs are where my shifter used to mount...
did some measuring and decided to just filet the top of the tunnel and i'll make a new top piece to fit
first, i knew from going though every thread and comment i could find, that there was no way to know if this was going to be easy or not on my car...spoiler alert, it's not. on this car it's not a BFH and a few dents job.
second, the gear vendors manual isn't very good. it's out dated, (they've updated the control unit, and instead of printing new instructions, they include an extra page with the new wiring instructions), and they have assembly steps that they already did.
everything looks good and was well packed. i was going to just drive down there and pick it up (a couple hours away), but they did free shipping, so that was nice.
tail shaft comparison...
first thing is swap the tail shaft. i had never removed one before, and was a little worried about getting it back together, but happy to say it wasn't a problem.
until i went to put the cross member back in. that big ring where the OD bolts to the tail shaft housing is at the narrowest part of the tunnel
those tabs are where my shifter used to mount...
did some measuring and decided to just filet the top of the tunnel and i'll make a new top piece to fit
of course it once i got the clearance for the ring i found out a casting boss on top of the TS lines up perfectly with the cross member bracing under the floor
i thought about just grinding it off but would have needed to pull the tail shaft to get up there. i can't imagine GV hasn't had anyone mention this to them. you can see from the cross member bolt hole how close it is to having enough room
well i decided to open it up from the top and make a window for it. drilled an 1 1/2" hole though the floor and then used a grinder bit to shape what i needed
a little more massaging toward the back and fits just like it was made for it...
i'll be dropping off the driveshaft in the AM and hopefully getting the hole patched up tomorrow
i thought about just grinding it off but would have needed to pull the tail shaft to get up there. i can't imagine GV hasn't had anyone mention this to them. you can see from the cross member bolt hole how close it is to having enough room
well i decided to open it up from the top and make a window for it. drilled an 1 1/2" hole though the floor and then used a grinder bit to shape what i needed
a little more massaging toward the back and fits just like it was made for it...
i'll be dropping off the driveshaft in the AM and hopefully getting the hole patched up tomorrow
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