68 valiant signet

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the turbo arrived to day, i think it'll be just fine
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here's a couple of pics to show it's size, one next to a 5 litre oil can and one with it getting aquainted with the 383 big block which doesn't look so big next to it
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here's the specs mate
Specification
Compressor
Compressor Trim: 50
Compressor Inducer Diameter: 69 mm
Compressor Exducer Diameter: 98 mm
Compressor A/R: 0.66
Turbo Height: 243cm
Turbo Width: 273cm



Turbine
Exhaust Inlet (Turbo Manifold) Flange: T4 4 Bolt Flange
Exhaust Outlet (Downpipe) Flange: V-Band Flange
Turbine Trim: 77
Turbine Inducer Diameter: 88 mm
Turbine Exducer Diameter: 77.5 mm
Turbine A/R: 1.05
 
so even small children are in danger of getting vacuumed up :thumbsup: how much boost are you planing on?
 
our ashley's coming round tomorrow so we can swing the engine and box in for a trial fit. hopefully not too much cutting about and i'll have pics by tomorrow evening of it sat in place.
 
we had quite a good day today, the 727 box bolted straight up using the 904 mount and crossmember which was cool. this then gave us a fixed point to mount the engine in place. i knew the engine mount bracket on the driver's side of the k member would need notching for oil pump clearance, also rather than cut'n'shut the sump i cut a deeper corner into the passenger's side of the k member.with the bellhousing propped up close to the tunnel we offered the motor in and pulled it again for more motor mount trimming. we ended up at the back of the slot where the mounting stud goes so we're back about 2" from where a big block usually sits. i'm fine with this as i'm making my own mounts anyway and it'll give more room at the front for the turbo pipework. the engine now back in and sat on a block of wood at the front on the k member we could start to position ancillaries always keeping in mind turbo plumbing. it doesn't look like it'll keep the aircon which is a shame but it'll be too tight and i don't want the boost pipes hanging down under the front. the alternator will mount low on the passenger's side under the turbo, we've already hung it on a bolt so it just needs some spacers and an adjuster bracket. the power steering pump brackets were straightforward too, just a bit of angle and a dog legged rear bracket. both are slotted and now the p/steering pump and water pump will run off the same v belt. the p/steering hoses are fine, they'll go well above the driver's side manifold with a heat shield of some kind for insurance.
more as i/we do it, neil.

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i've decided to make this a 2 part build. part 1 will be to get the 383 and box mounted along with the 9" ford axle, then get it freshened up and refitted. i can then put some miles on it to work out any bugs while i collect the rest of the parts needed for the turbo conversion. i'd rather use it sooner than have it sat all next year too. i can do bodywork while it's in use, working on 1 panel at a time until it's ready for paint.
for me this is a good plan as i tend to lose interest in inanimate objects so.....
this weekend i'll bolt on the schumacher headers to make sure the engine's in the best position then i'll make the motor mounts.
neil.
 
been out to the garage this evening, first chance all weekend but hey ho. tonight's job was to get the headers in place to finalise the motor placement allowing me to make the new mounts. i dropped the passenger side in first and bolted it up. that was the first problem. round to the driver side and that one wasn't going in from above or below. ok, tip the motor over for clearance i thought. still not enough there's a pointy casting halfway along the block sticking out. so, out with the sawsall and that's gone then. sorted? er.... no. bugger the other header has to come back off so the motor can tip over further. finally with all that done and the steering on lock (thought i'd have to drop the centre link for a while) it went up from below
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. lastly i sat the motor back down and refitted the passenger header.
it's close to the steering box but i do have power steering so i kind of expected that. 1/4" is enough anyway as the motor will try to pull up that side under load so increasing the gap.

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today i made/remade the motor mounts. i started on the driver side by cutting and re angling the old mount from the ford pilot. i added some bracing and then bolted the new h/d escort rs2000 mount to it. next cardboard templates transferred to some 1/8" plate were welded in place under the mount. a couple of bracing pieces and some black paint and that side was done. the passenger side was a bit easier as the pilot mount only needed a slot adding and a new slotted hole further forward on the k member and it was done too. i did raise the motor another 3/8" as the drivers side header didn't curl nicely round the steering box like it should. a bonus of this is the bottom of the sump is now about an inch higher than the bottom of the k member so i can deepen the sump (and pickup) for more oil capacity when it's off.
more soon, neil.

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mygasser said:
the s/six and box are being collected wednesday evening so i can clear up all the anti freeze and trans fluid in the garage View attachment 1715212982
then i've decided to mock up the 383/727 (make mounts etc) before i pull them apart for a freshen up, i'm not fitting the torque convertor either for this. reason is if i fit it all in i KNOW i'll just get it going and use it as is. i want to paint the engine bay and the engine/box so this way i have to take them back out and they'll get what they need before the final fit up.
well it makes sense to me anyway View attachment 1715212983
neil.
Click to expand...


Slant k member makes it easy, you'll need to cut n box the front of the drivers side mount tower to clear the oil pump, bolt hole stays same....then make a tower and or bracket for the passenger side "doing all the mock up with motor and trans in car and trans bolted up to mount.

The center section/trans mount of the torsion bar anchor is removable, 4 bolts n nuts.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Slant k member makes it easy, you'll need to cut n box the front of the drivers side mount tower to clear the oil pump, bolt hole stays same....then make a tower and or bracket for the passenger side "doing all the mock up with motor and trans in car and trans bolted up to mount.

The center section/trans mount of the torsion bar anchor is removable, 4 bolts n nuts.
Click to expand...

yeah, it wasn't as tight as the 440 into 65 dart i did before. still had to cut to the back of the drivers side mount hole for oil pump clearance, hence the new bracket welded in place. once it's back out i will be boxing it in for sure. as you say i just bolted the 904 mount to the 727 and the trans went right in there, again easier than the 65 dart as that had from memory a borg warner box and the mount was different.
cheers, neil.
 
I'd put a torque strap from that left side of the engine to the K frame, otherwise you might rip that mount loose in short order. A buddy of mine had a 383 69 charger, it ate left motor mounts until he used a length of chain on the left side of the engine and attached it to the K frame. Prior to that he dented his hood (bonnet) from the underside, and bent the **** out of the air cleaner when the first one let loose.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I'd put a torque strap from that left side of the engine to the K frame, otherwise you might rip that mount loose in short order. A buddy of mine had a 383 69 charger, it ate left motor mounts until he used a length of chain on the left side of the engine and attached it to the K frame. Prior to that he dented his hood (bonnet) from the underside, and bent the **** out of the air cleaner when the first one let loose.
Click to expand...
Yeah thanks, I will be getting that done. I'm going to bring some poly bushes etc home from work to make it up.
Cheers, Neil.
 
got some more done today. first i made the torque bar (like a torque strap but tube), then before i refitted the p/steering pump i trimmed the 2 bosses back 1/8" (3mm to you youngsters) where the pump bolts up to better align the pulleys. next i made the brackets for the alternator, as coincidence has it the 2v pulley lines up with a 2v part of the crank pulley too so i can use 2 alternator belts. that's good as i've had a rew where the belt has to be bow string tight to stop squealing. lastly today i fitted the mopar/jaguar xj6 hybrid fan and the radiator. i've got almost an inch from the fan hub nut to the rad' so that's better than i expected. i had to trim the bottom of the core support for rad' clearance so i'll add some steel rod to the cut edge for strength when it's blown apart.
all in all quite a productive day despite the cold.

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nice torque bar. good idea to just weld the bracket to the k-member
 
Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to you and yours!

Looking forward to seeing more from this build
 
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