70 dart 470 ci drag car build.
- Thread starter MOPARMAGA
- Start date
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My butt dyno concurs. Just ran 9.90's with my 4300 lb 850+ hp Super Stock this past weekend.
Awesome in the challenger ?
Bad ***
I just want to know if Rat Bastard will be making a pass and if video will be provided.
So hopefully you're coming out to renegade in June for the Mopar show
I'm Sure he'll make a pass, I'll ask him if he wants to drive a 2 pedal. Hopefully he gets his dart sport going soon too.
There will be video
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
That beeeotch needs to do street/strip duty. Lights and stuff are easy.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
I don’t drive 2 pedal cars. I fall asleep.
Yes, I’ll be there with the Super Stock for sure and hopefully the Duster if it’s done in time.
Can't, maybe I can drive it around my area if I talk to the sheriff lol
Cool
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Oh yea we can. We can make that thing a drag and drive car. Lights and wipers are easy.
Registration isn't, but I'm going to try as soon as it's a roller
dartindanno
Well-Known Member
We need more pictures please! Every step you make go ahead and post em up
Yes sir, I am taking as many pictures as I can, when I get time to work on the thing.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Cleaned that mother out.
Over at rats house today for a bit, lashed my valves and double checked them, thanks rat helped explain figuring out tdc with a stop which in theory I should already know that lol but he explained it and now it makes sense on the pointer I got from Mancini it's pretty and from the cam being installed 2 degrees retarded, tdc on the pointer was around 1.5 degrees off and well we're going to send it.
Tried fitting my trickflow intake and of course I need to surface about .030 a side and might as well port match it as well, speaking of port matching the Hughes valley pan shown in the picture adds an additional .400 of csa at the pushrod pinch and with a deep blend I believe I can probably pull some more rpm.. previously peak power was around 5650 or so average.
Sorry kind of a lame picture, by the way the Hughes valley pan is a really nice piece, stainless steel.
Tried fitting my trickflow intake and of course I need to surface about .030 a side and might as well port match it as well, speaking of port matching the Hughes valley pan shown in the picture adds an additional .400 of csa at the pushrod pinch and with a deep blend I believe I can probably pull some more rpm.. previously peak power was around 5650 or so average.
Sorry kind of a lame picture, by the way the Hughes valley pan is a really nice piece, stainless steel.
These are the new headers, hopefully in a week or so we will have these bolted up and making some power pulls. Anyone have advice on proper break in so the ceramic coating stays nice ? Maybe that's in with the tti paperwork
I didn't take off enough on the intake manifold to get it on the engine today, son of a pain in the *** old slow tools lol. I have to go atleast another .030 , I tried to fit it at .020 off no luck.
****, this is basically all I got done this weekend.
I told my neighbor I would replace her rear bearing hubs on her Subaru they were so rusted in I had to go to desperate measures and I ended up putting a quarter size dent in her quarter panel...it's in a spot where it's trapped between the wheel tub and wheel well spot welds. So unfortunately I have to fix it. That will be my spare time this week. I tried welding this in but with the thin rusty sheet metal and all the big gaps it didn't go as well as it should have.
It's ugly....so ugly it doesn't get a picture, maybe I will try welding slower, I meant to just tack it in.
Anyways how in the world would I go about this, I absolutely do not want to start replacing the floor pans. I see guys who make out riggers and weld their bars to that and tie into the floors.
I'm sorta tall and mostly legs so this is where the bar has to live so I can be 8.50 certified
I told my neighbor I would replace her rear bearing hubs on her Subaru they were so rusted in I had to go to desperate measures and I ended up putting a quarter size dent in her quarter panel...it's in a spot where it's trapped between the wheel tub and wheel well spot welds. So unfortunately I have to fix it. That will be my spare time this week. I tried welding this in but with the thin rusty sheet metal and all the big gaps it didn't go as well as it should have.
It's ugly....so ugly it doesn't get a picture, maybe I will try welding slower, I meant to just tack it in.
Anyways how in the world would I go about this, I absolutely do not want to start replacing the floor pans. I see guys who make out riggers and weld their bars to that and tie into the floors.
I'm sorta tall and mostly legs so this is where the bar has to live so I can be 8.50 certified
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