70 Duster power window install

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Rudy`s Ride

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Hi everyone. My name is Mike. I have figured out how to put power windows and door locks in my 70 Duster using common mopar regulators.
I will try and show you how I did it and what parts I used. I am not a teacher and have never tried to explain how to build something so you may have to bear with me.
I am going to try and post lots of pics and measurements as I go and this is going to take me awhile to get it all up.
Ok so here goes.
I could have done this with linear actuators, which would have been much easier but I could not afford the price of them here in Canada not to mention I do not know much about them.
I had saved the power window motors, regulators, door locks and all the wiring out of an 80 Cordoba years ago. I also have a 87 Ram 1/2 ton with power windows too.
The first pic is the 80 Cordoba and next pic is 87 Ram
 

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Here are some pics of finished working doors.
 

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This is the old regulator and the new one I made.
In second pic you can see how the old reg would have been mounted and pic 3 is the new one.
I will post more tomorrow. Please let me know if I need to enlarge pics.
 

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I think these will only fit 70 and 71 Dusters. They may fit a bodies Cudas but I don`t know.
I am pretty sure Electric Life has kits for 73 up Dusters as they have totally different regulators.

The regulator in your car needs to look like the bottom one in this pic for these to work.

I see my pic has not enlarged so I am going to have to play with this some more.
 

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Ok guys I could not get pics any bigger, worked on it last night for a few hours and no luck, F####n computers, so if you need bigger ones PM me and I will email them to you. Once I get to measurement pages they may be a little small to see.


Pic, 1 Here is a pic of the regulators after I cut the track arms off of them. The top one is out of a 87 Dodge Truck, the bottom is from a 88 Dodge truck. The top 87 has a small 1/4" center hole for the motor to fit into where the bottom has a 1" or so hole.
Pic,2,3 The big motor is the 87 and down motor, these motors in my opinion are not as good as the newer smaller motor. I have 4 of the big ones and after switching parts around managed to make 1 work. I used it to do my layout as I did not have smaller ones yet. I was going to buy new motors till a friend gave me some he saved out of an 88. I had no idea that they had smaller ones, when I got them home I tested them and they work perfect. So I went with the 88 and up ones. If you have older regulators you can use a holesaw to drill out center and use the small motors, but if you have newer big hole regulator I would not try and put the big motor on it as there is no place for 1/4" gear tip to ride and I`m pretty sure the plastic gears inside won`t last long.
Pic, 4 These are my finished regs and motors. The bottom left is 88 ram tr. and the right is out of 80 Cordoba with hole drilled in Pic,5.
Will continue tomorrow night.
 

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I am pretty sure Electric Life has kits for 73 up Dusters as they have totally different regulators.

You are correct I just installed these last month in my 73, very simple install and they work great.
 

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You are correct I just installed these last month in my 73, very simple install and they work great.

I would have got them too but they do not fit 70 or 71s as the tracks and window handles are different. I am not sure but I think 73 is all buy itself also, but I could be wrong.
Were did you drill your door jam loom hole and what kind of looms did you use. I am starting to do the wiring and was looking at jam loom location tonight.
Any pics of jams?
 
These pics are of right side (passenger side).
Measurements are center to center of holes.
The measurements are as close as I could get and should be within a 1/16". Get some small nuts and bolts, 1/8 or smaller and drill 1/8 holes to start. When you get them mounted good with small bolts you can drill out to 1/4".
Pic. 1 The green circled holes are the holes I drilled for mounting. This reg is out of 80 Cordoba so I had to drill out gear hole for small motor circled red. I drilled this hole 1" I think but could have been smaller, 3/4 may do but you would have to measure gear to be sure. Blue circled holes a factor ones.
Pic.2 I used the factory holes opposite the motor to measure from. The top hole is 7 3/8" . The bottom hole is 6 5/16" from factory hole. The bottom hole you want to center on mount pad as you do not want to blow out the side when drilling 1/4" holes.
Once you get 1st one drilled take other reg and bolt them together mount pad to mount pad, now you can drill 2nd reg as they are a mirror image of each other.
Pic.3 The areas marked in yellow are on the same level and is were the original reg was mounted.The blue area is recessed in deeper and you need to keep new reg above it.
Pic.4 Here you can see the recesses better. The blue holes are factory holes I based my measurements from. The green holes are my new mounting holes. The red holes with X through them are 1st attempt mistake. Bright blue scribble hole is stop adjuster that I put in after this pic.
Pic.5 Measurements are center to center of holes. This is right side. Nut circled blue is stop adjuster, will explain latter.
Pic.6 Left side measurements.
Pic.7 This is the reg track arm. I made it out of 1 1/2 square stock 9 " long. You can make both sides out of 1 peace. I cut it so I had 1/4" lip on both sides to give it more strength.
The holes are 7 1/2" apart. One side is a 1/4 hole that bolts to reg and other hole is 7/16 that gets spring clipped to pivot in door. Ignore the 2 bottom holes.

Stay tuned, will not be posting tomorrow but will be back Sun or Mon night. Case of beer is in my way and it is much to dangerous to drink and type.
Mike
This sucks that I can`t make pics any bigger for some reason.
 

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I would have got them too but they do not fit 70 or 71s as the tracks and window handles are different. I am not sure but I think 73 is all buy itself also, but I could be wrong.
Were did you drill your door jam loom hole and what kind of looms did you use. I am starting to do the wiring and was looking at jam loom location tonight.
Any pics of jams?
No pictures of the loom installed but I ran them under the bottom hinge
 
Pic. 1 I drilled a 1/4" hole in reg gear for the new track arm. It is 7/8 from end and 7/8 from gear side. Blue circle.
Pic. 2 I bolted track arm to reg with 1/4" grade 5 bolt ( will switch to grade 8 on finale assembly). I greased and put a thin washer in between reg and track arm.
Pic. 3 I put a nut on and snugged it up, then a second lock nut to keep it from backing out.
Pic. 4 Regs ready to bolt in.
Pic. 5 Drivers side bolted in and working. After getting reg in and working I noticed the window was lifting higher than originally. The plastic window stops were not strong enough to stop new motors. After lots of thinking and measuring I figured out how to use the original stops.
Pic. 6,7,8, The original regs have a cam bolt and nut stop adjuster. Circled in red.
Pic. 9 I could not put the cam bolts on the new regs so I had to put a stop bolt on the reg ( circle in red) and the cam on the door. The stop bolt need to be round and thick enough to catch the cam.
Pic. 10 These are the only bolts I could find in town to suit my needs, I`m sure if I drove another hour to Home Depot I could have found something else but these worked perfect despite being metric. They fit a 5/16" hole and use a 1/2 wrench to tighten.
 

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Pic. 1,2, I needed a place for the stop bolt to mount and this is were I chose, red circled.
Pic. 3 I tried to keep the hole in line with the center gear pivot and spring catch.
Pic. 4 I measured 9/16" off spring catch rivet (3/4" on center) and drilled 5/16" hole. I ground the top of rounded stop bolt as it was a bit to thick to move freely through regulator. I also had to grind a little off the reg, Blue line in pic 2.
Pic. 5 To find were my stop bolt would ride I bolted the right reg to the outside left door and used the 5/16" hole to scribe a tracking line. ( Green arrow) Do the same to opposite door.
Pic. 6 I then put it all together including window and lifted window to the top. I measured stop bolt on inside of door and transferred on outside.
Pic. 7 Circle is were stop bolt is located.
Pic.8 This is were the cam bolt will be. Mark and drill hole. Now take it all apart, install cam bolt and put it all back together.
Pic. 9 Cam bolt installed, now you can adjust so all the stress is on cam bolt and not on plastic window stops.
You are now ready to wire it up.
There is no welding to do with this conversion, just drilling 5 holes. You can go back to manual windows latter if you want.
Mike
 

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Awesome write up!! I'm glad I found this before reinventing the wheel since you already did it! What did you end up doing for switches and how did you mount them?

Also to be clear, you had named quite a few different years and mixes of parts. Which would/did you go with or worked best to go find new parts to do this?
 
Hi everyone. My name is Mike. I have figured out how to put power windows and door locks in my 70 Duster using common mopar regulators.
I will try and show you how I did it and what parts I used. I am not a teacher and have never tried to explain how to build something so you may have to bear with me.
I am going to try and post lots of pics and measurements as I go and this is going to take me awhile to get it all up.
Ok so here goes.
I could have done this with linear actuators, which would have been much easier but I could not afford the price of them here in Canada not to mention I do not know much about them.
I had saved the power window motors, regulators, door locks and all the wiring out of an 80 Cordoba years ago. I also have a 87 Ram 1/2 ton with power windows too.
The first pic is the 80 Cordoba and next pic is 87 Ram


looks ok to me,and a pretty good job of converting. But why invent the wheel again? Just take a mopar power window motor. your original regulator drill out the rivets to the crank handle (since the manual window crank gears match the power window gear), mock up a 3 hole flat piece of metal and tack into position, check fit and move or clock the motor to clear obstructions. minimal parts required, minimal fabrication (unless it's a convertible rear motor which totally sucks!)
original regulator with the crank handle removed (note to self remove spring first) ok I forgot on 3 of them and luckily I didn't get a finger taken off, roll the window regulator UP to remove some tension from the spring it's easier (that was 4th try)
DSCF3538.JPG



mine was cracked and old so it was a good one to start with since it was loose anyway.
DSCF3539.JPG


mounted the gear to check mesh. ohhh looks nice. then tacked it in place till final welding
DSCF3541.JPG



really need to clean up the flat plate but it worked for the test fit.
DSCF3542.JPG

another view. yeah the original bolts for the motor worked and wer close but didn't hit
DSCF3546.JPG



This was just hacked together to test fit in my 66. took 1 hour to make the pieces (all 4 motor mounts)to mount motor and mesh with gears correctly installation in the front was on par with removing the regulators. wiring was a bit more time but I took the wiring from another car in the yard that had power windows and made the connectors match. with the spring ON it was just too fast going up for my liking. I ended up pulling the spring off and adding a resistor to get it to the speed I could live with here is a video.
 
Last edited:
Hi everyone. My name is Mike. I have figured out how to put power windows and door locks in my 70 Duster using common mopar regulators.
I will try and show you how I did it and what parts I used. I am not a teacher and have never tried to explain how to build something so you may have to bear with me.
I am going to try and post lots of pics and measurements as I go and this is going to take me awhile to get it all up.
Ok so here goes.
I could have done this with linear actuators, which would have been much easier but I could not afford the price of them here in Canada not to mention I do not know much about them.
I had saved the power window motors, regulators, door locks and all the wiring out of an 80 Cordoba years ago. I also have a 87 Ram 1/2 ton with power windows too.
The first pic is the 80 Cordoba and next pic is 87 Ram
I’ve been messing around for years on converting my 71 Duster to electric windows. I like your idea of fabricating a motor onto the existing door parts. It looks like the motor is attached to the window crank, is that right?
I’ve also seen A1 n Nu-Relics power window kits but a bit pricy. I’m leaning towards Nu-Relics because of the HD parts. They also have a micro switch part that takes the place of the roll up handle n uses the handle as the switch instead of a flip switch on your door or console keeping it stock looking. If you get the complete set up Nu-Relics includes the S-conduit n wiring.
So how did your setup work out? Was there any draw backs that you’d do different ?
 
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