70 Duster T5 Swap

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70DusterDev

70DusterDev

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Location
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Over Easter weekend I pulled the auto out of the Duster and started getting everything ready for the 5 spd swap.

Here is a list of parts that I am using:

Ford clutch kit - Perfection MU Series Clutches MU48-1

AFCO master cylinder - AFCO Racing 6620110

Rod end for the master - Summit Racing® Rod Ends SUM-MSF5

Quick time bell - QuickTime Bellhousings RM-6071 OUCH

Mopar pilot bushing for the conversion - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bca-fc69907

Taller ford transmission mount - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ani-2784

Clutch line - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-40280

External slave bracket - DazeCars, For Sale Page

Slave cylinder - Speedway Push-Type Clutch Release Slave Cylinder

Last week one of the tool makers at work helped me redrill my flywheel for the ford clutch and drilled my new quick time bellhousing for the ford clutch fork ball pivot.



The mopar pilot bushing housing fit the crank just right, but the mustang pilot bearing was too small to press into the housing that I pressed the Mopar bearing out of. So I found a brass bushing that was close and had Bob turn it down to fit for me.



Got the center console pulled out to see what I had to do to cut the brackets out, but leave marks of how they were in case I ever want to go back to the auto.


I also got the clutch and brake pedals in last night. Hopefully I'll have the master cylinder in tonight. More to come!

EDIT: Photobucket died so I'm reuploading the pictures but they may not be in order and the same spots. I apologize for this.
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Awesome!! Glad to see you're documenting the swap! Also, that's a sweet Duster!! By all means post more pics of it!!
 
So the old ford bellhousing had a spot for the pivot ball.
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On the new bellhousing we had only drilled the hole where it supposed to be, so I ran a bolt through the back side and welded 2 nuts onto the bell. Then pulled the bolt out from the back and put the ford ball pivot in the new bell.

Once I mocked up the holes and drilled them on the fire wall for the master, I bolted it in. I was a tad bit lower then I wanted to be but it worked.
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Next I took a paint stick and zip tied it to the brake pedal and clutch pedal so it held them level to set my rod end position on the push rod for the master cylinder.
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The threaded rod that attaches the master to my pedal barely touches the back of my E-brake linkage so tonight I'm going to shorten one of the couplers so it clears.
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Besides that it all works great!


My flywheel bolts came in yesterday too so now I can get that in tonight, mount the bell housing and see how my throwout bearings clearances are with my clutch. I may need to make a spacer. More to come!
 
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I am interested to know how it holds up. Those are some big skins you got out back. It is at least a World Class T5?
 
Thanks!

It should fit pretty well! A few ppl on here have done the swap, you just have to cut a part of the torsion bar support on the floor.

295/50r15s in there. Yeah its a world class with 40k on it. I figured if it blows up I'll find upgraded parts and rebuild it.

But it will sure be put the test because she's gonna get a beating (mostly on the street) and I have a GT45 turbo for this winter project hopefully.
 
I ran 275/60 Nitto drag radials behind a NWC (non world class) T5 in my fox that made 300/295 wheel NA (NWC T5's are rated for 200ft/lb @the crank)- held the power fine -

1. make sure there is NO play in the input shaft - I mean 0 play with the bearing retainer installed

2. a good shifter - I had a Hurst pro billet on mine Pro5.0 is another good one

3. this is the important part don't grind or power shift the trans - let the linkage do the work and it will hold up just fine

Nice work! this makes me want to do this to my Demon and rock 4.10's.. with a 3350 though not a T5 ahaha
 
Got the clutch pedal and master cylinder squared away with cutting one of the couplers down a little bit. Also threw the rubbers on the pedals for show
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After that the flywheel and clutch went in.
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Got the bellhousing up and I have about 1/8th to 1/4" of space between the clutch fingers and throwout bearing so that worked out perfect! :cheers:

I thought I was going to have to spend all night playing with the throwout bearing, but since that wasnt the case I threw the trany up there to mark what I had to cut out.

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I cut the torsion bar support after I marked it but forgot to take a picture. BUT to anyone whos going to do this swap there are also 2 spot welds at the very top of the support. I ended up getting a sawzall blade in there to cut them, but it took some floor with it. But no biggie because that part of the floor is getting cut out for the shifter.

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Also pulled the seats and cut all the old auto brackets out. I left the flat parts of the brackets on the floor just in case I ever go back to the auto, I'll know where to weld the brackets back onto.

Hopefully tomorrow night I'll have the trany all in, cross member modified and get the starter buttoned up.
 
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You can forget it holding up to a turbo. The World Class units are only good for like 330 LB FT. Unless you are real light and or have traction loss.

I have one behind a pretty mild 5.0 roller motor I am getting ready to put in a Mercury Bobcat and I plan on being easy with it.

I think you will need to upgrade it pretty quick. Good luck, though it looks like a good swap. I hope it holds up better than I think.
 
Thanks for the heads up Zac! I'll check mine out and make sure its okay.

Yeah, im sure once the turbo is in (if the T5 lasts that long stock) I'll need to upgrade. I may keep an eye out for a cheap blown up one and buy the Astro rebuild kit to have one ready to go in.

They just cost so much :/ but still much cheaper and smaller then a TKO.
 
Keep up the progress, I've considered this for my car as well. I think as you have a clutch that will slip a bit and don't mind changing it, the trans will last. If you go spool, slicks and a good clutch, kiss it good by.
 
Yeah Dano, I have the sure grip rear end so its locked and I have some pretty wide tires in the back but I dont have problem changing the clutch out. Thats why I bought a cheaper clutch A. because I have no money haha and B. hoping it may be the weak link.

Thanks vitamindart.
 
You should be able to find a Tremec 3550 for around $900 used.. that's shipped.. and less than a Astro but yes they are heavier

Traction loss with a turbo goes hand and hand.. what clutch are you using? with or with out the turbo.. unless you run a centerforce DFX/ Spec st3+ or double disc clutch - the clutch will be the weak link

Gears also play a huge roll with load for a turbo and clutch.. I had 4.30's in my fox and it helped lauches as well as keep the T5 in one piece..
 
Well so far Im just using a normal clutch kit from summit. It's listed up top. I have 3.55s or 3.91s. Haven't decided which ones yet.
 
dano said:
If your going turbo go 3.55:1, plus that T5 has a 3.35 first gear?
Click to expand...
THIS OR I'll trade you your 3.55's for my 3.23's!? LOL

I was/am planning boost (big block though) and why I got a 3.23SG center - Turbo's like a load to spool and the higher gear dramatically helps that, as well as a tall tire..

That clutch will pop before the trans does, I launched my 83 Mustang at 1,500rpms, centerforce dual friction clutch, 275/60 drag radials, and it would dead hook on the street (no clutch slippage.. my NWC T5 took it just fine but like said 4.30 gears help that..)
 
Yeah that has a 3.35 first gear. The 3.55s are in the rear end now, so I guess I'll leave them in there!

Zac that will be sweet. boosted big block!

Got the hole in the floor cut and the transmission up for final fitment.

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Once I got it where I liked it, I started to build a cross member. I started with the taller ford mount. But it was way to tall. I didnt want the cross member to hang down much further then stock if any. So I found an old jeep one laying around and cut the bottom off the ford mount.

After doing that and getting it up in there, it was still too tall for my liking. Back to the drawing board.... ended up cutting an end off an old jeep track bar and welding it to an old shackle that happened to have the correct bolt holes.

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For the cross member I had to cut most of the center out of it and welded some D.O.M . tubing in there and a couple tabs I had laying around from the rock crawling stuff.

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Got the cross member back up and bolted it all together.

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Once that was all done, my dad and I started putting the new carpet in for the 5 spd. Its not all done yet and the boot and ring are just sitting there for show.

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More to come!
 
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Man nice job! Your making this easy for the next guy for sure. I like the trans mount that worked pretty slick.
 
Thanks! I thought it came out pretty well too.

Got the carpet done, shifter boot mounted and the seats all back in.


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Ordered a pistol grip handle for the shifter today with a line lock button on the top. Should get that in a couple days. Next we got the slave cylinder mounted and bled. After bleeding it I realized that the slave was a 7/8 bore when I could have sworn I read it was a 3/4 inch bore. My master is only a 3/4. After a few minutes of scratching my head as to why the slave was only pushing about 1/2" checked them both out and found that. Back on the phone with summit to add that to the order as well.

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My parents were down visiting these last couple weeks so it was nice having a helping hand. We also got the exhaust back up, figured out the driveshaft length and most other things buttoned up.

All thats left is the reverse lights, speedo (need to figure out what I have to do here still), get my driveshaft lengthened and put that new master in and hopefully she's ready for a test drive!
 
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Heres another shot of the transmission mount with some paint.

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Got the pistol grip in too!

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The shift knob REALLY completes the interior of the car. I've always just loved that super clean look of the 4/5 speed cars with just a shifter boot on the floor and a shifter.
 
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Great thread!! You did a great job on the pictures and the write up. I really like how the trans mount / crossmember turned out. Keep up the great work, can't wait to see what your next project will be.
 
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