autopar3000
Well-Known Member
Geez, that first picture looks like a valve body!
72 Dart Swinger 3.6L Pentastar +T5
- Thread starter myduster360
- Start date
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myduster360
Well-Known Member
What do you guys think?
Picking out my Gauges from SpeedHut for my 72 Swinger.
CAN-Bus for Tach, Volt, Water Temp and probably Speedometer.
Senders for Fuel Llv and Oil pressure.
~$900 total for the gauges & panel.
The speedometer is setup for Turn signal and High-Beam indicator which I forgot about needing to integrate with an aftermarket setup.
Picking out my Gauges from SpeedHut for my 72 Swinger.
CAN-Bus for Tach, Volt, Water Temp and probably Speedometer.
Senders for Fuel Llv and Oil pressure.
~$900 total for the gauges & panel.
The speedometer is setup for Turn signal and High-Beam indicator which I forgot about needing to integrate with an aftermarket setup.
I've been looking a Speedhut gauges for my 87 Ram - GPS speedometer, tach and combo voltmeter, water temp, oil pressure, and gas gauge. They have some nice stuff!
sport74
Well-Known Member
You will like the gauge cluster.... it works nicely. I am using the same one and wiring into the factory harness PCB connector using blue ferrules and a 6 way crimper, this allows them to fit into the round connector just like the PCB. This way I don't have to cut the harness. I know this is not an issue for you but just in case, I prefer to keep it that way.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Two more road blocks,,,Clutch and Steering
Clutch:
The NAG1 bell housing doesn't fit over Stock 3.6L 11" clutch.
It gets hung up on a couple bosses,,but hey cut it some slack, 11" is pretty big.
I grabbed a cheapo 10.5" disk and pressure plate from a 90s Mustang T5 and it's practically swimming inside by comparison. There's only Zillion different options available for the 10.5 mustang clutch, so its a better choice in the long run. The Flywheel just needs to be drilled for it,,,not huge deal.
STEERING FAIL
I borrowed a Borgeson box with the hopes that its slimmer size could sneak right under the 3.6L A/C compressor. It can but it puts the engine up too high and not by a little. It's up a good 2" higher than it should be and over the cowl panel.
So looks like I'm back to plan A and putting in a Rack & Pinion.
Clutch:
The NAG1 bell housing doesn't fit over Stock 3.6L 11" clutch.
It gets hung up on a couple bosses,,but hey cut it some slack, 11" is pretty big.
I grabbed a cheapo 10.5" disk and pressure plate from a 90s Mustang T5 and it's practically swimming inside by comparison. There's only Zillion different options available for the 10.5 mustang clutch, so its a better choice in the long run. The Flywheel just needs to be drilled for it,,,not huge deal.
STEERING FAIL
I borrowed a Borgeson box with the hopes that its slimmer size could sneak right under the 3.6L A/C compressor. It can but it puts the engine up too high and not by a little. It's up a good 2" higher than it should be and over the cowl panel.
So looks like I'm back to plan A and putting in a Rack & Pinion.
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sport74
Well-Known Member
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Well since I cant use the stock/borgeson ps Box, I worked a bit more on seeing if the C4 Aluminum Spindle +73 B body LCA could work to provide a forward facing steering arm for a Rack & pinion AND allow Torsion bars.
I first wanted to how the +73 B-body LCA compared to a Abody. So to the best of my ability I measured(Calipers)and modeled each in SolidWorks.
At first if you just look at the arms as the B-Body looks a good 1/2" longer. But its a bit deceiving as the differing Ball joint attachment points throws things off. That's why I went ahead and modeled each one separately.
So from this assembly model the two arms aren't too far off in actual length. Less than .25" for sure.
I first wanted to how the +73 B-body LCA compared to a Abody. So to the best of my ability I measured(Calipers)and modeled each in SolidWorks.
At first if you just look at the arms as the B-Body looks a good 1/2" longer. But its a bit deceiving as the differing Ball joint attachment points throws things off. That's why I went ahead and modeled each one separately.
So from this assembly model the two arms aren't too far off in actual length. Less than .25" for sure.
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Do you have a part number for these blue ferrules? Or are the blue ferrules all the same size?
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Got my Classic Auto Air Evap kit in today!
In case anyone's wondering:
1972 Dart factory AC/heater box = 30lbs
Classic Auto Air = 15lbs!
In case anyone's wondering:
1972 Dart factory AC/heater box = 30lbs
Classic Auto Air = 15lbs!
sport74
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I ended up buying these and will see how they work.
20 Pairs - (2mm) Gold Plated Bullet Connectors - Male and Female US Seller Stock | eBay
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Quick update:
US Car Tool(sub frame, trq box, fender) and XV(radiator) chassis stiffening parts are in. I'm going to work on getting the Dart prepped for their install.
I'm going to try to get the 3.6L running on its own to hash out the wiring and whatnot instead of trying to fuss with it in the car. I have a bunch of 2x6 left over so I figured I'd used it to build an engine cradle,,here's a rough idea. Its ~3ft square
US Car Tool(sub frame, trq box, fender) and XV(radiator) chassis stiffening parts are in. I'm going to work on getting the Dart prepped for their install.
I'm going to try to get the 3.6L running on its own to hash out the wiring and whatnot instead of trying to fuss with it in the car. I have a bunch of 2x6 left over so I figured I'd used it to build an engine cradle,,here's a rough idea. Its ~3ft square
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Mopar92
Well-Known Member
Is this the same engine that would be in a 2011/2012 or so Jeep Wrangler ?
Grnfsh
Member
I think its a fantastic idea to get the engine running on a stand before installing it in the car. Engines are a lot easier to work on outside of an engine bay
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Yes but only 2012 and newer Wranglers.
The engine i'm using is from a 2013 Wrangler, which appears to be identical to the 2012.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Here's the engine cradle. Fit is good on the left side but the Right needs some work where its tight near the block and ps pump. It may look a bit precarious but I have it sitting on a furniture dolly for easy shuttling around the shop.
Curiously, these Wrangler motor mounts are positioned right at the 3.6l's center of gravity. It's perfectly balanced and will tip front or back with 1 finger. I'll need to make a mount plate to bolt to the bottom of the bellhousing flange to secure it.
Curiously, these Wrangler motor mounts are positioned right at the 3.6l's center of gravity. It's perfectly balanced and will tip front or back with 1 finger. I'll need to make a mount plate to bolt to the bottom of the bellhousing flange to secure it.
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discharger1332
Well-Known Member
I am glad someone is finally doing this swap. I was looking into it when 3.6 was brand new but motors were not available yet.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
UPDATE: Cooling System / Test Stand
Stumbled across this Upper Radiator hose while researching Jeep/Hemi Swaps
Its an upper hose for a 2012 and newer 5.7L Durango/Grand Cherokee(Gates 23035). It Just so happens to fit near perfect. The only thing I had to do was install a Gates 1-3/4 to 1-1/2 reducer 26931
With the Charger 3.6l Lower hose and the Durango 5.7l upper hose winds up putting the Radiator darn close to where it needs to be from the firewall.
Looks to be around 32-33" from the bellhousing flange ~36" from the firewall, right on the lower radiator support.
The radiator is sitting a little lower on the test stand than I think it will be in the car, but shouldn't be a big deal.
Stumbled across this Upper Radiator hose while researching Jeep/Hemi Swaps
Its an upper hose for a 2012 and newer 5.7L Durango/Grand Cherokee(Gates 23035). It Just so happens to fit near perfect. The only thing I had to do was install a Gates 1-3/4 to 1-1/2 reducer 26931
With the Charger 3.6l Lower hose and the Durango 5.7l upper hose winds up putting the Radiator darn close to where it needs to be from the firewall.
Looks to be around 32-33" from the bellhousing flange ~36" from the firewall, right on the lower radiator support.
The radiator is sitting a little lower on the test stand than I think it will be in the car, but shouldn't be a big deal.
I don't think he has much choice on manifolds since the manifold and head are cast as one piece
myduster360
Well-Known Member
There are no "manifolds", because there's just a single port(see below) on the head.
What you see in the pics above is technically an "exhaust pipe" from a 2012 Charger but they're most likely a bit too wide or interfere with the steering column. So I'm planning on bending up some custom pipes from the heads to the Xpipe.
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