72 Dart Swinger 3.6L Pentastar +T5

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I see....interesting

My interest in your build has been sparked for quite a while....I was just trying to image in my head how the head of a rack and pinion and steering shaft would poke around accessories (looks like A/C compressor) and exhaust head pipe.

I am guessing the factory went under those goodies.....the motor with accessories / components looks looks like a tall package to put in an A body.....just an obsevation from afar
 
myduster360 said:
What do you guys think?

Speedhut gauges are Great! We are a distributor for Speedhut and can save you money over buying them from their website! Give us a call at 661 259-8891 Picking out my Gauges from SpeedHut for my 72 Swinger.

CAN-Bus for Tach, Volt, Water Temp and probably Speedometer.
Senders for Fuel Llv and Oil pressure.
~$900 total for the gauges & panel.

The speedometer is setup for Turn signal and High-Beam indicator which I forgot about needing to integrate with an aftermarket setup.

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="Speedhut gauges are Great! We are a distributor for Speedhut and can save you money over buying them from their website! Give us a call at 661 259-8891 "]
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I will ABSOLUTELY be ordering from you then
 
myduster360 said:
There are no "manifolds", because there's just a single port(see below) on the head.

What you see in the pics above is technically an "exhaust pipe" from a 2012 Charger but they're most likely a bit too wide or interfere with the steering column. So I'm planning on bending up some custom pipes from the heads to the Xpipe.
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Its like its just begging for a turbo to be bolted on there.
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you, MyDuster360.
I decided some months ago to transplant a Gand Cherokee Pentastar plus 8-speed auto RWD into my beautiful 1937 Dodge truck race car hauler. Most of my reasons are your reasons also. An awesome engine power/weight and size, plus amazing fuel consumption.
You will no doubt prove to be My Guru or even my saviour as I launch into the project.
What a relief it is to find you leading this fine mob of interested people with your Pentastar transplant project.
So much work you have put in to date.
I think the physicals of my project will be much simpler than your project. IT'S THE ELECTRONICS THAT HAVE ME QUAKING. Everything has been sitting in my shop for 4 months waiting to go. Until I can get a good grip on those electronics and 99.9% of the answers, I won't turn a wrench.
I'm looking forward to following your every move.
Thanks
Jim
 
Scammell said:
Thank you, thank you, thank you, MyDuster360.
I decided some months ago to transplant a Gand Cherokee Pentastar plus 8-speed auto RWD into my beautiful 1937 Dodge truck race car hauler. Most of my reasons are your reasons also. An awesome engine power/weight and size, plus amazing fuel consumption.
You will no doubt prove to be My Guru or even my saviour as I launch into the project.
What a relief it is to find you leading this fine mob of interested people with your Pentastar transplant project.
So much work you have put in to date.
I think the physicals of my project will be much simpler than your project. IT'S THE ELECTRONICS THAT HAVE ME QUAKING. Everything has been sitting in my shop for 4 months waiting to go. Until I can get a good grip on those electronics and 99.9% of the answers, I won't turn a wrench.
I'm looking forward to following your every move.
Thanks
Jim
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Thats awesome mate!

I'm struggling to get the electronics sorted out myself, lol. I have HP Tuners and Diablo CMR but can't get the damn thing to crank over with the key. Disabling the SKIM doesnt make much difference, IF that's really the issue.

I was using the 2013 Wrangler TIPM(fuse/relay box) which acts as the CAN hub but I don't have anything to scan it to know if it's getting the proper signals from the Key, Clutch switch, ect to energize the starter relay. I'm flying blind and hate not knowing. i think I need to get a scan tool to be able to see what the TIPM is or isn't doing.

20170305_151154.jpg
 
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myduster360 said:
Thats awesome mate!

I'm struggling to get the electronics sorted out myself, lol. I have HP Tuners and Diablo CMR but can't get the damn thing to crank over with the key. Disabling the SKIM doesnt make much difference, IF that's really the issue.

I was using the 2013 Wrangler TIPM(fuse/relay box) which acts as the CAN hub but I don't have anything to scan it to know if it's getting the proper signals from the Key, Clutch switch, ect to energize the starter relay. I'm flying blind and hate not knowing. i think I need to get a scan tool to be able to see what the TIPM is or isn't doing.

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myduster360, right now I'm feeling sorry for you. No doubt you've heard the old saying that something or other "looks like a mad woman's breakfast". Well mate, that photo "looks like you've got a madman's picnic" on your hands.

Keep at it PLEASE !

My donor is a 2015 Jeep GC with only 6,250 miles up. It cost me at auction, equivalent to $4,875.00US. It runs, drives and is great. Could jump in it and drive across Australia right now if I put some lights on the front and back. Its brand new, but what we call a Statutory Write-Off and can never be registered again in OZ for road use. ALL THIS MAKES ME REALY HAPPY.

THEN I REMEMBER THE ELECTRONICS ISSUE. AND ALL THAT MAKES ME REALY SAD !


Keep at it PLEASE !
Cheers
Jim

Below: The 'Receiver', a one owner 1937 Dodge
IMG_8612.JPG


Below: The 'Donor', a one owner 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3.6L Pentastar RWD
photo.PNG
 
On the MOPAR verbal grapevine here is the following, "Chrysler did release wiring looms for hot rods last year at SEMA, but just for Hemis."

What do you fellas make of that ?
 
On the weekend after next I'll be driving across south east Australia in a friend's A-Body '1971 Chrysler Australia E37 Charger' (see photos). We are spending the weekend at a river town named Albury, for the annual large 'Chryslers On The Murray' event. I am advised that one of these A-Body Oz Chargers that has been fitted with a Chrysler 300C Pentastar, ? I hope, engine is most likely to be there. If so, then the owner will certainly find me very attentive.

I hope I can find him.

Below photo taken yesterday: 1971 Chrysler Australia Charger E37 Option Spec. currently owned by John Ellis in Adelaide. He was the young Oz Chrysler engineer who in the late 1960s and early 1970s managed the Chrysler Factory Road Racing team. He also was the engineer that Chrysler sent to do time in Italy installing/productionising the 6-Pack Weber carburettor system installed in these street racer options.
Its one of these A-Body Oz Chargers that I might find that has the Pentastar installed.
photo 3.JPG


Below: The Weber 6-Pack system that were installed when new in the Chrysler Australia Assembly Plant in 1970s Adelaide.
photo 2.JPG
 
Scammell said:
On the MOPAR verbal grapevine here is the following, "Chrysler did release wiring looms for hot rods last year at SEMA, but just for Hemis."

What do you fellas make of that ?
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Mopar released engine harness and ECM's for their CRATE mopar hemi's, not really for pull-out engines. Unless you just so happen to have the exact cam profile and combination of the crate offerings.
supposedly these can be tuned, but kind of defeats the purpose of a plug and play system, and you might as well roll with the holley dominator or something self-learn at that point for a crate hemi.

DCC-77072454AC - Mopar 6.4L HEMI Crate Engine Controller. For use w/ 6.4L Eagle Engine 68303090AA
DCC-77072455AB - Mopar 5.7L HEMI Crate Engine Controller. For use w/ 5.7L Eagle Engine 68303088AA
 
myduster360 said:
Thats awesome mate!

I'm struggling to get the electronics sorted out myself, lol. I have HP Tuners and Diablo CMR but can't get the damn thing to crank over with the key. Disabling the SKIM doesnt make much difference, IF that's really the issue.

I was using the 2013 Wrangler TIPM(fuse/relay box) which acts as the CAN hub but I don't have anything to scan it to know if it's getting the proper signals from the Key, Clutch switch, ect to energize the starter relay. I'm flying blind and hate not knowing. i think I need to get a scan tool to be able to see what the TIPM is or isn't doing.

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myduster360,
If you started this project with plenty of hair, then how's it looking right now ?
Here's hoping you've had any kind of breakthrough with those cute electronics.
Rgds
Jim
 
myduster360 said:
Thats awesome mate!

I'm struggling to get the electronics sorted out myself, lol. I have HP Tuners and Diablo CMR but can't get the damn thing to crank over with the key. Disabling the SKIM doesnt make much difference, IF that's really the issue.

I was using the 2013 Wrangler TIPM(fuse/relay box) which acts as the CAN hub but I don't have anything to scan it to know if it's getting the proper signals from the Key, Clutch switch, ect to energize the starter relay. I'm flying blind and hate not knowing. i think I need to get a scan tool to be able to see what the TIPM is or isn't doing.

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Look on Amazon for a Bluetooth scanner. You can get one that is basic for 12.99 or you can find the ones that have all the capabilities of the dealership scanner for more. They work with apps on your phone. The unit I have is a panlong (12.99) and I use the full version of dashcommand by Palmer performance. Full version cost 9.95 and you can add different dash skins to it. Some guys in the local Chevy scene have used cheap tablets molded into the dash for their gauges on LS swapped vehicles. It's much cheaper than buying a scanner and full set of gauges too.

Screenshot_2017-03-11-10-08-00.png
 
myduster360 said:
Thats awesome mate!

I'm struggling to get the electronics sorted out myself, lol. I have HP Tuners and Diablo CMR but can't get the damn thing to crank over with the key. Disabling the SKIM doesnt make much difference, IF that's really the issue.

I was using the 2013 Wrangler TIPM(fuse/relay box) which acts as the CAN hub but I don't have anything to scan it to know if it's getting the proper signals from the Key, Clutch switch, ect to energize the starter relay. I'm flying blind and hate not knowing. i think I need to get a scan tool to be able to see what the TIPM is or isn't doing.

View attachment 1715025090
Click to expand...
Yes, You need a real bi-directional scanner to effectively deal with this project. What steps were taken to modify the change to manual trans vs the inhibitor/range unit from the
auto unit? It may be looking for the signal from that, I'm not sure how straight forward the clutch in sw. substitution for a signal is/isn't.
 
Killer6 said:
Yes, You need a real bi-directional scanner to effectively deal with this project. What steps were taken to modify the change to manual trans vs the inhibitor/range unit from the
auto unit? It may be looking for the signal from that, I'm not sure how straight forward the clutch in sw. substitution for a signal is/isn't.
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Yes I need a reliable way to know all the prerequisites are met for the starter relay to energize. I may even need a Door ajar Switch to be "closed" for all I know.

It just so happens that my automatic PCM's sensor circuit had issues. All the temp sensors, MAP, TPS and Pedal would all give a High voltage code. All the wiring's Ohm and volts checked out, so diagnostic procedures all pointed to the PCM. I took that opportunity to grab a 6 speed PCM($100 ebay) and that indeed fixed the sensor issues.

According to the service manual, the Clutch switch is just Normally Open that grounds out. My automatic harness didn't have a terminal populated in the PCM connector so I stole one from the Purge solenoid and grounded it out. Who knows if it really worked or not because i'm flying blind without a proper scan tool.
 
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I'm still watching this forum topic with great interest and hope.

I showed a younger friend all my V6 Pentastar stuff, still in the wrecked Grand Cherokee, the other day and talked about the problems, your problems in particular.

My friend is of the opinion, though not certain, that for everything to function correctly, each or every electronic smart component in the wiring system must have that vehicle's VIN number code electronically embedded within its firmware. He pointed out a couple of smart components, and sure enough, they even had the VIN labelled on the outside of each.

Am I teaching you something you already know as fact, or is this just juicy thinking?

Keep trying. We're all still watching I'm sure.
 
. . . . . so, what I mean is that the system may check internally for each components VIN code, and if there's a mismatch, then NO START or NO FUNCTION is the order of the day.

Such a system would make it difficult to steel your neighbour's engine when he wasn't looking and drop it in your body. You could do it, but NO START, therefore no point.
 
So I suppose the bigger question is, can you disable that function of the computer searching for specific VIN ID components? I think the current answer is NO but can DiabloSport work that out?

Going back to the GasMonkey Hellcat Dart, they made it work somehow. I know the engines are different but you would think that the software between Chrysler engines would be similar. Granted, they had actual Diablo sport techs sitting there in the shop working on it.
 
You lured me from the interwebs today looking into doing close to the same setup. Looking at buying a 67-72 dart to put the 3.6 into. At first i wanted a 4bt but the v6 is so light. From what ive seen the vin parts should match and have every computer the car used since they all have to talk to each other. That was tge issue gasmonkey had and had to cave in and add the parts. RoadKill on you tube did the same thing and explain everything with a hellcat charger motor. Looking forward seeing your progress. Hopefully ill have a dart this year!! Have a 72 charger in the works.
 
Wicked72 said:
You lured me from the interwebs today looking into doing close to the same setup. Looking at buying a 67-72 dart to put the 3.6 into. At first i wanted a 4bt but the v6 is so light. From what ive seen the vin parts should match and have every computer the car used since they all have to talk to each other. That was tge issue gasmonkey had and had to cave in and add the parts. RoadKill on you tube did the same thing and explain everything with a hellcat charger motor. Looking forward seeing your progress. Hopefully ill have a dart this year!! Have a 72 charger in the works.
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I suppose that begs the question, would it be easier/better to use a standalone like Megasquirt?
 
Grnfsh said:
I suppose that begs the question, would it be easier/better to use a standalone like Megasquirt?
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If you can control the VVT then is most definitely would be worth it. Havent looked at megasquirt in awhile. If it didnt have VVT a carb setuo would be amazing
 
Grnfsh said:
Megasquirt can control VVT with the MS3
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I see that now! Just got off their site just now. Things have changed so much since i last looked into it. This is awesome. Still interested to see how using the 3.6 factory wiring will work out. Would be cheaper.
 
Wicked72 said:
I see that now! Just got off their site just now. Things have changed so much since i last looked into it. This is awesome. Still interested to see how using the 3.6 factory wiring will work out. Would be cheaper.
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I am controlling a 440 with MS3X in my 70 cuda, full sequential, COP yada yada.. So I have some experience with the MS3. I have seen the VVT controls in there but obviously a 440 doesn't use it so I've never actually messed with VVT functions. IMO it would still be a huge help to acquire a stock wire harness for the connection ends to splice into the MS harness.
 
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