72 duster resto

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72smallairparticler said:
well

Crank is undersized 10 over
Bearings are Mahle/clevite 1266p10s for 10 over

www.summitracing.com

Clevite Engine Parts MS-1266P-10 Clevite P-Series Main Bearings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Clevite P-Series Main Bearings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Main Bearings at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

Not enough squeeze…

View attachment 1716273738

View attachment 1716273739
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I'm no engine builder, but shouldn't the bearing with a hole in it be in the block? That looks like the main cap to me. But maybe I am missing something.
 
junkyardhero said:
ninja edit: derp. i see that's both sides. yeah. no. she's a little wide. helps if i look at all the information... lol.
Click to expand...

Both sides? Looks like a measurement of the same piece of plastigage, once on the cap and once on the crank. So 0.002 clearance?
 
Yeah I torqued the rest of the mains to 85lbs instead of 50 for checking clearances and checked again. All 5 are pretty near .002 which im good with.
 
sireland67 said:
Now check the crank end-play.
Click to expand...
Yeah I have a dial indicator and cam degree on order. The tools needed to do a build were more than I expected. Hence why I think its easier for someone who isn’t planning on doing builds frequently to just get a machine shop to do the bottom end.

That said, im learning alot and having fun whilst blowing through my build budget
:lol:
 
  • Crank is installed on new bearings and torqued. Spins nice and smooth - waiting on dial indicator ordered from Summit to check end play
  • Top piston rings are filed to spec
  • Top rings, second rings, and oil rings are now installed
  • Rod bearings are installed - waiting on new arp bolts to replace the stock ones. (cheap $70 insurance so I dont throw a rod)
  • Replacement timing chain (Cloyes) and Degree wheel kit are on their way to help me finish up the bottom end.
  • Heads should be shipping here in a week or so. Already have the new arp bolts for those
  • Intake is ready to install with new arp bolts
Probably will paint the block after assembly since it got trial tested at the machine shop and chipped away quite a bit with the various solvents and heat applied.

Got my 8.8 rear end parts all together so chipping away at that next. Installing backing plates for the e-brake hardware first, then caliper brackets/rotors/calipers/hardware. It'll be nice to get that piece fully built and ready to drop in now that the undercarriage is cleaned up pretty well. I'm toying with the idea of skipping the trunk floor repair for now just to get the car back together and running.
 
mygasser said:
there'll be plenty of time over the winter to fix the trunk floor :thumbsup:
neil.
Click to expand...
he lives in california. winter time here is a construct invented by the brand Ugg and large coat selling companies to peddle fashionable wares to arid body typed women that starbux only reinforces by playing "wintertime" muzak on repeat beginning at 12.01 am november 1st while serving peppermint mochas in seasonal red cups.

we don't actually have winter in california. our four seasons consist of: heatwaves, fire, flooding and mudslides.

it's not all bad though. there's tacos.
 
junkyardhero said:
he lives in california. winter time here is a construct invented by the brand Ugg and large coat selling companies to peddle fashionable wares to arid body typed women that starbux only reinforces by playing "wintertime" muzak on repeat beginning at 12.01 am november 1st while serving peppermint mochas in seasonal red cups.

we don't actually have winter in california. our four seasons consist of: heatwaves, fire, flooding and mudslides.

it's not all bad though. there's tacos.
Click to expand...
:rofl: he's dead on. We pay extra for the weather and access to said tacos.
 
72smallairparticler said:
  • Crank is installed on new bearings and torqued. Spins nice and smooth - waiting on dial indicator ordered from Summit to check end play
Click to expand...

Did you pry the crank both back and forward and hold it in forward while torqueing the #3 main cap to set the thrust bearings?

And you don't need a dial indicator to check end play, you can use feeler gauges at the thrust bearing.
 
DionR said:
Did you pry the crank both back and forward and hold it in forward while torqueing the #3 main cap to set the thrust bearings?

And you don't need a dial indicator to check end play, you can use feeler gauges at the thrust bearing.
Click to expand...
I didn't know that, I'll use my feelers and set it today. Thanks DionR
 
72smallairparticler said:
  • Crank is installed on new bearings and torqued. Spins nice and smooth - waiting on dial indicator ordered from Summit to check end play
  • Top piston rings are filed to spec
  • Top rings, second rings, and oil rings are now installed
  • Rod bearings are installed - waiting on new arp bolts to replace the stock ones. (cheap $70 insurance so I dont throw a rod)
  • Replacement timing chain (Cloyes) and Degree wheel kit are on their way to help me finish up the bottom end.
  • Heads should be shipping here in a week or so. Already have the new arp bolts for those
  • Intake is ready to install with new arp bolts
Probably will paint the block after assembly since it got trial tested at the machine shop and chipped away quite a bit with the various solvents and heat applied.

Got my 8.8 rear end parts all together so chipping away at that next. Installing backing plates for the e-brake hardware first, then caliper brackets/rotors/calipers/hardware. It'll be nice to get that piece fully built and ready to drop in now that the undercarriage is cleaned up pretty well. I'm toying with the idea of skipping the trunk floor repair for now just to get the car back together and running.
Click to expand...
ARP rod bolts, if you change them, you have to have the big end of the rod re-sized.
 
sireland67 said:
ARP rod bolts, if you change them, you have to have the big end of the rod re-sized.
Click to expand...
Yeah, Im sort of torn on whether to use the ARP studs at all since the rods were reconditioned with the stock bolts. Maybe it's just the machine shop I dont wanna go back to LOL
 
use the stock bolts. you're not making the kind of power that necessitates aftermarket bolts.

save thems muthas for the next build.
 
400 bajillion HP is what this **** is gonna crank out. Im gonna splash burnt tire feces on the faces of all import, ford, chebby lovers as they watch a blur of F3 amber sherwood smear across their view wondering what the hell was that while baptizing their ears in mopar exhaust notes. All with stock rod bolts baby. MOPAR FOREVER!!!!!!!!!!
 
  • Crank is in. Thrust bearing centered and End play clearance within spec.
  • Pistons are in
  • Cleaned and Painted oil pan and tried some truckbed undercoating, looks pretty tough
  • Cleaned and painted the battery tray and bracket with some f3 sherwood
  • Cleaned sanded and painted column shift z-bars

IMG_7777.jpeg
 
Installing timing kit tonight.

Just got the heads in so I put one on to test fit. Brian at IMM Engines does good work if you're considering Speedmasters. He gets the bare set and adds
  • Manley 11/32 2.02 x 1.60 valves
  • our valve job/guide hone
  • our spring kit (Dual springs for hyd. FT, hyd. roller, or solid FT)
  • Chromoly retainer/machined 7° locks
  • Viton valve stem seals.

Screenshot 2024-07-17 at 9.05.41 AM.png
 
Left spring - for my comp thumpr cam
Right spring - came on the heads - Bryan mentioned they're not enough spring rate for my cam

Im a little nervous using this cam now. Bought off a member here but I don't know how the shorter spring is supposed to hold a higher spring rate than the taller ones on the heads... I dont know, first time builder so just a gut reaction.

Option A - just go with it
Option B - pull the thumpr cam, keep the taller springs on and order Bryans matching performance cam from IMM engines that works with these springs. ($325) Sell the thumpr cam and springs?

IMG_7865.jpeg


IMG_7840.jpeg
 
Last edited:
72smallairparticler said:
Left spring - for my comp thumpr cam
Right spring - came on the heads - Bryan mentioned they're not enough spring rate for my cam

Im a little nervous using this cam now. Bought off a member here but I don't know how the shorter spring is supposed to hold a higher spring rate than the taller ones on the heads... I dont know, first time builder so just a gut reaction.

Option A - just go with it
Option B - pull the thumpr cam, keep the taller springs on and order Bryans matching performance cam from IMM engines that works with these springs. ($325) Sell the thumpr cam and springs?
Click to expand...
diameter, wind and material all play a factor in spring rate.

if those springs are specifically matched to the cam, then i won't worry about the rate. i'd be more concerned about the install: are they the right diameter for the heads & keepers. will they be the correct installed height and allow for use of the locks. etc, etc, etc.

since you asked, and since i like spending other people's money and i don't particularly care for thumpr cams... i buy the matching IMM cam and sell the thumpr stuff along.
 
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